Commuting - Suspension replacement to rigid.

My commuter is a converted MTB that I've put quite a few miles on. The suspension fork was finally dying so I elected to buy a simple rigid fork. Not as easy or cheap as I thought it would be. Well, the swap was easy but finding a rigid fork was problematic. I could purchase a Carbon Fiber fork for $250 or a bunch of beat up used forks, but new (and cheap) simple rigid forks don't seem to exist. and finding a rigid DISK capable fork simply doesn't happen for less than $60-150. I even checked 5 LBS's just to see if anyone upgraded lately, Nothing.

Anyhow, I finally found one for $20 shipped. Nothing special but it's steel (whee!).. and black!

An unexpected plus, it weighs about 2.5 pounds less than the old fork. Not my intention, but, simplicity and lighter? Bonus!

CE

no luck with Surly? Thats what I have to replace my hated suspenders....

Works great.

Soma also has steel Disc brake forks for Cyclocross bikes & 29er.

http://store.somafab.com/framesandforks1.html

you know, i asked thos same question just 2 days ago in bicycle mechanics and got.....nothing.
so please. everyone dish and tell me what ya got and how you did it. i too am looking at the long haul trucker forks to replace my sr suntour cheapie suspension forks (stuck, it seems, and with no pre-load....so carrying the weight with no benefit of the suspension part of the equation)

I think the Surly 1x1 disc fork is like $50 bux. I paid $70 for a Surly Instigator fork. Only real difference is 80mm vs 100mm correction.

Had my LBS switch out my susp. fork for a Salsa Cromoly disc fork. It was at $150, but I love the results.

We do this quite often in the shop. AFAIK, there are lots of options ranging from economy replacements to higher end replacements. Not sure why so many places have trouble finding basic steel forks. One of our suppliers literally has several pages of rigid forks of all shapes and sizes.

Bike Island is good for rigid forks...they've got a few different kinds. You'll probably have to measure axle to crown height - that's from the center of the wheel axle to the point where the fork meets the headset bearing. Most are 453mm, but some older ones have a shorter travel.

I know I could shave about 4 lbs off my commuter by going rigid but I haven't gotten around to it yet - the road bike has been getting all the new shiny's.

I think the Surly 1x1 disc fork is like $50 bux. I paid $70 for a Surly Instigator fork. Only real difference is 80mm vs 100mm correction.


okay, what kind of fork did you replace then? and, what would i be looking for to do it. i have asked the local LBS, and got the blankest stare i have seen in a while...

okay, what kind of fork did you replace then? and, what would i be looking for to do it. i have asked the local LBS, and got the blankest stare i have seen in a while...

You take off the stem and the brakes. Usually just allen heads, and there's a spring on each brake attachment you'll have to note. Then slide the old fork out. Easiest at this point to take the old fork and the new fork to the lbs and say you need the crown race transferred over to the new fork and the steerer trimmed to match. You shouldn't get any blank stares and its pretty quick and easy, with the right tools. Ask them to install the star nut in the steerer too, and then all you have to do is put it back together the way it came apart, making sure to set the headset bearing preload before tightening the two stem side bolts.:thumb:

okay, what kind of fork did you replace then? and, what would i be looking for to do it. i have asked the local LBS, and got the blankest stare i have seen in a while...

I replaced a Suntour suspension fork the bike originally came with. Straightforward swap. Daxr summed it up well. Best prices I found were at Jenson at the time, but my LBS beat their price. Ordered from Quality on their regular order

I replaced stock suspension with Surly Instigator fork. I needed a fork compensated for 100mm travel. It cost me $100 for the fork and $20 for the race swap and star nut. Middling cost for vast improvement in my commuting.

and note daxrs' post for the specifics of how-to.

http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/SID=sid2159cc6807f56db7cd533e0527a41/index.php?screen=sh.detail&tnid=2322


okay, does this sr suntour look familiar then? (mine is a 700c version, or as close to it as i can find), so i would look for a 100mm comp? and, what determines correct or not? on the mechanics section, someone had mentioned geometry differences, etc....


shoot me now and get it over with lol

tho, a front disc brake version DOES sound nice. somewhat my original plan was to have a front disk//rear rim and be done with it. here is 1 of the choices i was knocking around with:

http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=50907&page=KONA+PROJECT+II+CROSS+FORK

or a long haul trucker fork (to get the lowrider braze-ons)

that instagator does look like a nice fork tho

http://www.surlybikes.com/forks/Instigator_pop.html

and someone mentioned this one i beleive?

http://store.somafab.com/mtbcrmoforks.html

mine is a compact hybrid frame.....look like it would work?

funky! That suntour barely has any travel. Given that, I'd get whatever fork you wanted. If that LHT fork looks good to you, go for it. It will change your geometery, yes, but you probably won't notice after a day or so.

Go for it!

edit~ the Instigator fork would NOT work for you! It's for 100mm travel compensation. And trust me, its a BIG fork! Might make your bike look front heavy and it doesn't have lowrider mounts.

funky! That suntour barely has any travel. Given that, I'd get whatever fork you wanted. If that LHT fork looks good to you, go for it. It will change your geometery, yes, but you probably won't notice after a day or so.

Go for it!

edit~ the Instigator fork would NOT work for you! It's for 100mm travel compensation. And trust me, its a BIG fork! Might make your bike look front heavy and it doesn't have lowrider mounts.

Err, maybe. 40mm is still almost 1 1/2" of travel. What you really need to know is the axle to crown dimension of the Suntour. That's the dimension of the axle centerline to the crown race. The LHT fork won't compensate for the travel, so it'll lower the front prolly an inch. That *might* be a substantial enough difference to affect steering.

edit~ the Instigator fork would NOT work for you! It's for 100mm travel compensation. And trust me, its a BIG fork! Might make your bike look front heavy and it doesn't have lowrider mounts.

I'll tell you the axle to crown is the same as a Suntour with 60mm travel, so I think you're basing on ad copy rather than dimensions.

It looks like this: (my GF)
http://www.tsplace.com/jeep/tarpon.jpg

i am so confused :roflmao2:

which fork is that on the fisher ccrew?


(edit.....the instigator. good lookin fork)

It took longer than I anticipated. The fork arrived scratched so I had to paint it, then I noticed the bearings needed attention, so I cleaned and repacked them. The front fender won't fit until I get longer fender stays (on order).

The fork I purchased was about 1.5" shorter from crown to axle, so including sag with rider on board, the front end rides 1" lower, easily compensated with 2 extra spacers. Keep in mind, I spend only $20.

Mind you, all of this is on a Schwinn Mesa that I paid $175 on new, abused it off road for a year and then converted it to a commuter. I'm not about to spend $150 on a front fork. (I find the idea offensive) I also wanted to install a set of MX2 (I think that's the number) Disk Brakes but most of the disk forks were $60 and up.

Beater bike, beater solution.

That's the Instigator fork anaheim_flash.

Some notes so to speak.. Bike (2008 Gary Fisher Tarpon) originally came with a 65mm travel cheapo SR Suntour fork. I wanted to convert the bike to disc, and that fork had no disc mounts. Since the bike is used as a commuter, I had no real need for another suspension fork. Based on measurements the axle to crown on the Suntour was 457mm. The axle to crown on the Instigator is 445mm. Hence the Instigator is a touch shorter than my original fork.

What I didn't compensate for is the sag that occurs on a suspension fork when you put one's fat butt on the seat (I'm 175lbs) In the case of mine the Suntour didn't sag one bit so I was fine with the Instigator. Had I needed shorter the Surly 1x1 is essentially the same fork, only shorter.

Only place that I've noticed it, and I've put about 500 miles on the setup, is when/if I take the bike offroad on singletrack. On a downhill a suspension fork will normally compress and lend to a better position, this fork still keeps you more upright. On a *steep* uphill it tends to get a bit light. All minor, and easy to compensate for. On the street it's solid as a rock and I can bomb curbs, potholes, bunny hop it, on/off pavement as well if not better than I can on the high zoot Fisher XC bike you see behind it in the picture.

I'll try to get some different angle pics of it, but I love it and have no qualms. I'd certainly buy it again. Jenson is still selling them for $74 btw.

-Roger

Well, I have the Instigator on Giant Yukon and just picked up a 1x1 for the GT. Looking at CCrews' photos you probably would be okay. And CE seems to have been down the same road as yourself.

I'll still stand by Surly as being a good choice of fork no matter what. Guess I should have stated that my experiances had to do with 100 and 80mm travel forks, not 60. My bad.

Have fun doing whatever you do, I'm curioous to see how it ends up for you, so maybe some pics when your all done?

Thank you CCrew for giving better information than I had at hand.

i ordered a kona project 2 fork, supposedly a little bit lighter than the surly forks.

i get it next week and will update this thread after i try it out.

it's going on a 2005 gary fisher advance, 21.5" frame, replacing a fork with 75mm travel

Here you go I hope this helps:


http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174928_-1_200299_200276_200457


http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175400_-1_200299_200276_200457

wow, no joke ccrew....thanks for all that info. and mine have the same problems, it SAYS it's a suspension, but it does not move. would not care so much if it actually did anything, but just carrying the weight with no benefit. i gotta get the measurements on my forks and then get ugly all over it as soon as money allows.

The fork I purchased was about 1.5" shorter from crown to axle, so including sag with rider on board, the front end rides 1" lower, easily compensated with 2 extra spacers. Keep in mind, I spend only $20.



Don't take this wrong, as I understand why you did what you did and I might well do the same in your situation. Problem with this statement is that from an engineering aspect, it's dead wrong and I just wanted to clarify "for the record"

The fact that the fork is shorter is not compensated by the addition of spacers. With the fork shorter, you effectively lower the front of the bike, steepening both the head tube and seat tube angles. This (depending on the original geometry) can have a *huge* affect on the rideability of the bike. Steepening the seat tube angle harshens the ride, and steepening the head tube angle directly affects steering.

That said, it is geometry specific based on the bike you're working with, but I'd be looking at the measurements before blindly buying a fork.

Thanks.
Roger

damn
i was just looking at some sales site that has the instigator fork listed as a 26"?

mine is a 700c

:twitchy: :twitchy: :twitchy:

any other ideas?

damn
i was just looking at some sales site that has the instigator fork listed as a 26"?

mine is a 700c

:twitchy: :twitchy: :twitchy:

any other ideas?

I'll pop one of my 700's on mine. I know the wheel will fit, it's going to be all about the canti boss positioning. If not, the Surly Karate Monkey fork will fit. (29" they list for it is 700c in the rim size)

I replaced my suspension fork on my Trek 7300 about 2 years ago and it was the best mod I did on that bike. I lucked into a steel fork that was a perfect replacement that was pulled off another bike and the color matched perfectly. $20 and my LBS installed for $25. I had to replace the headset and stem, but it was worth it. I would get with the LBS to see if they might just have one in house. My only issue is that my fork was a 1" threaded and I moved to a 1" non-threaded. Make sure what ever fork you get is compatible.

This picture is just after I got the bike done from a complete overhaul after I replaced all the components.

http://www.jaxgtr.net/bfstuff/updated%20trek.jpg

I'll pop one of my 700's on mine. I know the wheel will fit, it's going to be all about the canti boss positioning. If not, the Surly Karate Monkey fork will fit. (29" they list for it is 700c in the rim size)

Ok, Instigator will work with more than enough clearance with 700c x 38mm and a fender. Issue though is that the canti bosses are indeed placed for 26". Not an issue for me, since I run discs, but if you're running canti's or V brakes it will be a problem for you. If that's the case look at the Karate Monkey fork..

thank you again ccrew....is what i figured, not enough "play room" for v-brakes. i would like to go to disks, but i would need to get new rim, the brake, AND the fork, so one karate monkey for me (IF i have a 1 1/8 steer tube. WAH-HAH!)

that trek 7300 looks very nice jaxgtr. i sometimes wonder if i should just get a trek 7.2 and be done with it, but money is soooo tight right now.

I have the Bontrager Switchblade rigid fork to replace my Rockshox's.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v353/bbrace/konafatfrank.jpg

good looking fork, and perfect size....but $$$$ and disk only.
and fat-ass tires on that kona, btw....

I'm in the same boat here also; I want to change the disc fork on my 2009 HardRock but don't know how to select the correct fork. How would I determine the length and size fork for such an exchange?

I'm in the same boat here also; I want to change the disc fork on my 2009 HardRock but don't know how to select the correct fork. How would I determine the length and size fork for such an exchange?

Hardrock Sport comes with an 80mm Suntour. The Surly 1x1 would be a perfect fit on that bike. It's actually what I looked to build when I built my Gary Fisher, but I'm a "tweener" size and the 17" Hardrock was too small and the 19" had no standover. Love the new frame design on the 2009's. I could get the GF in 18" which fit me much better. Just make sure you get the disc version of the 1x1, they come in canti and disc versions.

-R

I have the Bontrager Switchblade rigid fork to replace my Rockshox's.


That the carbon or aluminum version?

Good selection also here...

http://www.carboncycles.cc/index.php

Hardrock Sport comes with an 80mm Suntour. The Surly 1x1 would be a perfect fit on that bike. It's actually what I looked to build when I built my Gary Fisher, but I'm a "tweener" size and the 17" Hardrock was too small and the 19" had no standover. Love the new frame design on the 2009's. I could get the GF in 18" which fit me much better. Just make sure you get the disc version of the 1x1, they come in canti and disc versions.

-R

Thanks so very much CCrew, if you think this will work I'll buy one today. I see that JensonUSA has them in stock at $67. Would I need a new headset, star nut (don't really know what this is but it's listed as an item others purchased) or spacers?

Thanks again for the post

I'm in the same boat here also; I want to change the disc fork on my 2009 HardRock but don't know how to select the correct fork. How would I determine the length and size fork for such an exchange?

Take the axle to crown measurement, and get a fork that matches. From the axle center to the point where the fork meets the headset. On my Giant, its 453 mm, and that's easy to find. If I went with a 443 or 413, that'd lower the front end a bit.

makes ya wonder when manufacturers will quit putting that crap on bikes (yeah right...marketing departments have 'em by the short and curlies)
really, if my "suspension" wasn't so crappy and frozen, i'd leave it. cutting out some harshness from the condition of the roads and all would not be a bad thing, but the cost of replacing with a real, useful suspension fork is alot higher than a karate monkey. (i am not a weight weanie at all, and travel with panniers, trunk bag, work clothes, locks, and a cup holder :lol:)

wish i lived where ccrew worked, as i know who i would like to get the work done, but....
1,ooo,ooo internets to ccrew and his wealth of information!!!
now, we all need to ask him what our next commuter should be.....

:roflmao2:

Thanks so very much CCrew, if you think this will work I'll buy one today. I see that JensonUSA has them in stock at $67. Would I need a new headset, star nut (don't really know what this is but it's listed as an item others purchased) or spacers?

Thanks again for the post

Shouldn't need a new headset, you'll have to remove the crown race from your existing fork and transfer it to the new one. Star nut you should get a new one.

Regards,
Roger

now, we all need to ask him what our next commuter should be.....

:roflmao2:

Maaan, I don't think I want to even open that can of worms! LOL.

Heck, I have 11 bikes and 2 new frames sitting in the garage, and I can't make up my mind which I like the best!!

Maintenance is the bane of commuters.

My suspension fork is in dire need of an overhaul, but if I had the time I'd rather just replace it with something rigid.

That the carbon or aluminum version?

Good selection also here...

http://www.carboncycles.cc/index.php

They're aluminum.

They're aluminum.

You need to look a little closer. They sell both alum and carbon.

I have the Bontrager Switchblade rigid fork to replace my Rockshox's.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v353/bbrace/konafatfrank.jpg

I like that fork but it doesn't look like they carry an aluminum version for disk on their web page. It looks a bit like the current form on my Hardrock and would be a nice looking replacement.

I like that fork but it doesn't look like they carry an aluminum version for disk on their web page. It looks a bit like the current form on my Hardrock and would be a nice looking replacement.

Try here... It's only disc..no canti version

http://www.bontrager.com/model/05004/en

Try here... It's only disc..no canti version

http://www.bontrager.com/model/05004/en

As always thanks CCrew.

I went ahead and purchased an eXotic rigid aluminum fork but then realized it had V brake and disc break mounts (I thought I could specify which one I wanted), now I have to upgrade to the carbon fork if I want disc. Question, does anyone know if the V brake mounts can be removed from the aluminum fork? I sent them a message asking the same question but they are a bit slow to reply. I don't know if I really need a carbon fork on a commuter Hardrock, not sure it would benefit my commute any.

http://www.discobrakes.com/images/products/500x400/CC-F0125.gif

Question, does anyone know if the V brake mounts can be removed from the aluminum fork? I sent them a message asking the same question but they are a bit slow to reply.


You can just not run the posts, remove them if installed. If you're feeling really froggy I'm sure you can grind the bosses off the fork, but it'll leave you having to repaint it. All three of mine have the canti holes and run discs...

-R

I was riding on a Schwinn Homegrown with front suspension and was in this dilemma. Instead of buying a $70 fork I ended up with a $1000 Cross Check though :). Couldn't bring myself to *******ize such a sweet bike, even if I wasn't taking it on the trails anymore.

You can just not run the posts, remove them if installed. If you're feeling really froggy I'm sure you can grind the bosses off the fork, but it'll leave you having to repaint it. All three of mine have the canti holes and run discs...

-R

OK, you lost me Roger :o, what does 'not run the posts' mean?