Fifty Plus (50+) - Should I buy better for my first road bike?

OK, Dan'o here, the FNG. Looking at getting a Specialized Sequoia or similar in the very near future. Most of you have said that my first bike won't be my last. Just wondering if you folks think my first bike should be better or if a Sequoia is good enough? I'm 53 with a bad back and just lost a bunch of weight and am looking for cross-training and maybe a little racing in the future.

Just wondering if I am better off getting a better bike or if my first bike should be a nice basic bike, then when I get better and can figure out what I need, then upgrade?

Thanks all
Dan'o :**

I think it is not so much a question of good, better, best - all Specialized bikes are good - as it is a question is what sort of bike fits you properly and will allow you to ride the most miles. The Sequoia will give you a much more upright position. I don't know what that means for your back. It's your back, so find out which position is best for you. Maybe you will like a sportier bike with a more aerodynamic position.

But it is quite true that your needs might change in a year or two, so I would go with your gut feeling about which bike might work for you now and worry about future bike needs when the time comes. And it will.

Oh man this is a double edge sword of a question. In my opinion, and that is from someone relatively new as well, it is more important to get something you like to ride than to spend more on a bike you don’t know if you will like. If you have already decided on a bike or style you like the more you can afford to spend should allow you to go longer before you think you need to upgrade. Doesn’t mean that will work but that is one theory.

Get a bike with reasonable components to start with and you will more than likely keep that bike even if you get another one later on. The Sequoia will last you a long time and I have had absolutely no problem with Sora Components. If you move up to the Sequoia Elite you get 105s and a 10 speed cassette. Either bike will last you for a long time before you would feel the need to upgrade.

Now if you are considering getting competitive there is a whole different kind of advice you might get.

Sounds like I'm better off starting out with the Sequoia Elite as it has the better components. That's the bike I've been looking at and like. Just wanted to make sure I shouldn't do something different before I spend my money. I'm still going to check out a couple other bikes just for fun, and the teenager that still buried in me somewhere loves all the high-end super race bikes, but I know they aren't right for me.

Thanks for the advice.
Dan'o :**

If you're just starting off I'd suggest that you buy something with decent components that is within your budget AND that fits you. Don't go top shelf but buy something that pleases you. That way you'll ride the beast instead of looking at it hanging in the garage every Saturday when you take the mower out to trim the lawn. 105 level or Ultegra (not Ultegra SL) is about as high as I'd recommend for components for a starter bike.

Later, if you think that you have what it takes to build up the strength and stamina for racing you can buy a new frame and build your race bike. Realize that getting fit for racing for old guys is a whole 'nother ball o' wax than when you were young. Especially if you already have "structural" issues.

If you decide that racing isn't in the cards, then you can always buy that Colnago or De Rosa or :love: De Bernardi :love: or some nice carbon or Ti frame and build that to replace the first bike.

I view a bike purchase at over 50 as a health care purchase as well as a fun sport purchase. So don't hold back; don't have regrets later on. Start with Ultegra, just skip the rest. Then you can always upgrade to Dura Ace.

I have the Specialized Sequoia Elite and love it. The geometry is perfect for me. The LBS that I got it also has some 2008 and 2007 Specialized Roubaixs that are in the $1500 range (I think).
The Roubaix have the relaxed geometry but are full carbon. You may want to look around or give them a call - LBS = Orange Cycle on Orange, CA.
I am just a customer and have no affiliation with them other than spending money there.
They are very nice people and will treat you well.

I view a bike purchase at over 50 as a health care purchase as well as a fun sport purchase. So don't hold back; don't have regrets later on. Start with Ultegra, just skip the rest. Then you can always upgrade to Dura Ace.

:thumb: and you may never need or want to upgrade to Dura Ace. If you are sure you like the Sequoia spring for the better components and have fun.

I would invest some time and money with a good bike fitter. Many of the high end LBS that sell custom bikes will do a fitting analysis that will consider issues including age and fitness. See a local Independent Fabricators seller http://www.ifbikes.com/Dealers/ and discuss you needs. You may not need a custom bike, but be sure to get a bike that fits.

Michael

I can't think of a single thing I can do with my custom-made-to-measure bike that I couldn't do just as well with the entry-level Peugeot Chrono road bike I had at the time. For that matter, not much I can do now that I couldn't do in 1970 with my Raleigh Record. My fit is a little better, but that's only because I have unusual proportions which can only be fully addressed by a custom framebuilder (before, I could always bodge the bike to fit anyway).

We all get bitten by the obsession, but no matter how much you research it now, you will know better in the future. I wouldn't go too expensive if it was me. A decent entry-level or next level up should be fine. Racing? Well, maybe just ride first and see how that goes.

Even now, and even with years of riding experience behind me when I bought it, there are still a few things about my current bike I would change if I could.

The Sequoia Elite would be a great first road bike. In fact you could do well with a lot less bike than that. But if you have tried that bike and like it and if the price is not more than you can afford to spend, by all means, go for it. It will serve you very well as you learn more about bikes, as you develop more bike fitness and as you get ready for your next bike. The next bike might be a nicer road bike or it might be a different type of bike to broaden your range of cycling fun.

105 components will work better than you'll be able to utilize. You can always upgrade to a new component group in a few years if you want more bling.

Thanks for all the great info. I asked on this forum about the components and in that thread it was pretty unanimous to go with the 105 components, so I think the Sequoia Elite would be a good upgrade as it has better components throughout, plus a 10 speed cassette. So it sounds like it would be a great first bike and then as I figure out what the heck I'm doing then I'll look at a different bike or even building one on my own.

COOL!
:**

Hold on!!!! 10 speed cassette- that is two more gears to go wrong and is it a triple or a compact?- If its triple- that will be 6 more gears to go wrong.

And do you have hills? If you do you will have to make certain that the duff gears are at the small end of the cassette as you won't use them quite as often

Any thing Else I have forgotten to put you off buying a darn good bike to start you on your road to fitness?- and loss of weight- and loss of Money in the bank- and how long before the wife decides that the lawn is not getting cut as often as she wants becauses you are never at home.

Just pointing out the pitfalls.:innocent:

There are two main upgrades that will make a difference on a low to mid level bike. Better wheels and rear derailleur. You can do these later if you are not sure about jumping in too deep. bk

Hold on!!!! 10 speed cassette- that is two more gears to go wrong and is it a triple or a compact?- If its triple- that will be 6 more gears to go wrong.

And do you have hills? If you do you will have to make certain that the duff gears are at the small end of the cassette as you won't use them quite as often

Any thing Else I have forgotten to put you off buying a darn good bike to start you on your road to fitness?- and loss of weight- and loss of Money in the bank- and how long before the wife decides that the lawn is not getting cut as often as she wants becauses you are never at home.

Just pointing out the pitfalls.:innocent:

10 speed and a triple, so more choices when my tongue starts hanging out for the 1 percent grades:rolleyes:

I walk three days a week, ride three days a week, and on the 7th day God (the wife) advises I mow the lawns and trim the bushes, at home and my mother-in-laws three blocks down!

The better half thinks that anybody who'd pay over $1000 for a freakin bicycle is nuts anyways, so might as well be the best nut I can be!!!:D:roflmao2:

So has anybody noticed my nickname under my screen-name to the left? Not one word on that yet! LOL
:roflmao2::lol::innocent::rolleyes::thumb:

Just wondering if I am better off getting a better bike or if my first bike should be a nice basic bike, then when I get better and can figure out what I need, then upgrade?If you really want to "meet" all your own objections to spending big - one strategy is to look to other areas in your life that involved big purchases.

Where do you draw the line in buying expensive clothing? How about other toys like cameras, stereos etc? What level did you settle for? How did you feel about the product and where its price point was in respect to your budget?

In other words, big "buys" like bicycles can be be nixed or justified by anyone, for any reasons - or not.

If you look to yourself - and how you feel about other purchases - you'll have valuable clues as to what you will be happy to spend on a bike in the end.

If you really want to "meet" all your own objections to spending big - one strategy is to look to other areas in your life that involved big purchases.

Where do you draw the line in buying expensive clothing? How about other toys like cameras, stereos etc? What level did you settle for? How did you feel about the product and where its price point was in respect to your budget?

In other words, big "buys" like bicycles can be be nixed or justified by anyone, for any reasons - or not.

If you look to yourself - and how you feel about other purchases - you'll have valuable clues as to what you will be happy to spend on a bike in the end.

While I don't want to spend a fortune, the difference between a $1200 bike and a $2000 bike isn't that big, so that's not the problem I was concerned about. I was more interested in if it's a benefit to purchase a more upper end bike to begin with, but from what I've read the bike I'm looking at is upper end enough for my purposes.
Thanks for the info though.
:**

Sounds like I'm better off starting out with the Sequoia Elite as it has the better components. That's the bike I've been looking at and like. Just wanted to make sure I shouldn't do something different before I spend my money. I'm still going to check out a couple other bikes just for fun, and the teenager that still buried in me somewhere loves all the high-end super race bikes, but I know they aren't right for me.

Thanks for the advice.
Dan'o :**

Maybe not right for you YET. I don't think you can go wrong with this as a first bike. The Shimano 105 series of components is superb and considered the sweet spot in the Shimano road lineup. The advice that this will be a good first bike I think is good given your desire to maybe get into racing. Your first purchase can only be a guess as to what will really be right for you since not even you will know what that is until after you have been riding for a while and seen what others that ride in your style are using. If you continue on in the direction you are headed (fast road riding) then to improve significantly on the Sequioa will be a $3k+ investment at which point you will have the experience to know what you want.

Another possibility, of course, is CraigsList for a cost-effective interim solution.

Maybe not right for you YET. I don't think you can go wrong with this as a first bike. The Shimano 105 series of components is superb and considered the sweet spot in the Shimano road lineup. The advice that this will be a good first bike I think is good given your desire to maybe get into racing. Your first purchase can only be a guess as to what will really be right for you since not even you will know what that is until after you have been riding for a while and seen what others that ride in your style are using. If you continue on in the direction you are headed (fast road riding) then to improve significantly on the Sequioa will be a $3k+ investment at which point you will have the experience to know what you want.

Another possibility, of course, is CraigsList for a cost-effective interim solution.

Thanks for the advice. The only problems with a CraigsList bike is that I couldn't tell a good bike from a bad one, so with my luck I'd buy something that would need repair or similar and it would end up costing me as much as a new bike, so I think I'm better off with the new bike and the support from the LBS for buying it from them. Probably less expensive for me in the long run. In fact, the LBS is already giving me a discount on purchases because I'm thinking about buying from them.

Just to play the devil's advocate... Since you have mentioned the possibility of an interest in racing down the line, have you tested an Allez yet? The geometry would be a little more aggressive than a Sequoia but not drastically so and a bit more suitable for potential racing. You may or may not find that it is comfortable. No way to know without trying. I know several people who ride the Allez for casual rides and centuries. Most of them are very happy with their bikes.

If you want to spend more money, spend it on the best fitting cycling shoes you can find.

Just to play the devil's advocate... Since you have mentioned the possibility of an interest in racing down the line, have you tested an Allez yet? The geometry would be a little more aggressive than a Sequoia but not drastically so and a bit more suitable for potential racing. You may or may not find that it is comfortable. No way to know without trying. I know several people who ride the Allez for casual rides and centuries. Most of them are very happy with their bikes.

Basically, have only tried the Sequoia, but hope to try some others real soon. Supposed to do it this weekend, but it's supposed to rain all weekend, so may have to wait until next week.

I don't know if my LBS has an Allez, but I'll ask.

If you want to spend more money, spend it on the best fitting cycling shoes you can find.

Already bought a great pair of shoes. Feel so much better than my old ran-out running shoes!

Hi,

I got the Sequoia 'Comp' model, which my lbs said was a slightly
'better' model than the elite ( this was near the end of 2008).

It came with some 'nearly no spoke' wheels, 105 components and
Zertz inserts on the fork, seat stays and the seat post.

I was a little leery of of the wheels but they seem to be holding
up quite well. ( I am a bit over 200 pounds ).

The Sequoia line seems to be built like a tank. I had severe
problems exiting from toe clips whilst coming to a stop and dropped
the bike more times than I like to remember ( until I changed
to spd style pedals).

I also hit a curb once while trying to kick over the toe clips...
( I think that generated a cracked rib...)

The only damage that all the above caused to the bike was some minor
scratches on the brifters and some scrapes on the handlebar tape :)

I find the more up right position to be easy on my 70 year old back and
there are enough gears on the rascal to make up for the slightly overweight
frame, toughness does not come for free :)

Enjoy,

Jerry

The Elite does seem to be a happy compromise. Good components, good feel, not too expensive, but good enough for me to ride for awhile and do some easy races for fun. I'm 53, but I have the back of an 82 year old from all the motorcycle racing I've done, so this bike should do me for awhile.

I bought a Specialized Sirrus Comp last year, road it alot and this year decided I wanted a Roubaix. However I did not and will not get rid of the Sirrus, still love it, so get the bike you will be happy with now, as your requirements change get another. N+1 at work.

OP - I say if you are committed to cycling - go for the best equipped bike you can afford. If you don't know or think this might be a fad - a decent bike to get going and meet your cross training goals.

Now, I really want to know what a nearly no spoke wheel is as stated above?

The better half thinks that anybody who'd pay over $1000 for a freakin bicycle is nuts anyways, so might as well be the best nut I can be!!!:D:roflmao2:

When my wife and I first met (2004), she had, and still has, a Cannondale Road Bike. When I asked her how much she had paid for it, she told me that, with all of the accessories and first round of riding clothes, that she had spent just over $2,000. I told her she was nuts.

BTW, when we first met, I didn't ride and hadn't been on a bicycle in more than 25 years.

Fast forward to 2008. I now have a Trek Madone 4.5 that, will all of the accessories and initial round of riding clothes, cost me more that $2,000.

I don't think she's nuts anymore. I'm not quite sure about myself, however. :D

Now, having said all of that. When I first started looking at road bikes, I was looking at whatever I could get for the least amount of money in a good quality bike.

After much consideration, I decided to go with a lot better bike than I had originally been considering.
Two reasons.

I didn't much like the cheaper components on the low end aluminum bikes and I thought that I would be better off if I went ahead and bought what I figured I'd probably want a year down the road and not lose a bunch of money selling the first to upgrade to the better one.

Fit is the key here. I also have a bad back, and knees, and neck. For my first road bike I decided to splurge on a custom built Seven Alaris. I think it was worth the money. I rode over 3K miles on it last year and almost 2k miles the first year I owned it. I find riding it a pleasure, and without many of the aches and pains I had riding the hybrid I owned before it. In fact I like the fit so much that I'm thinking of getting a custom built cross or mtb to use for commuting. Find a shop that is known for good fitting services, and go with them.

I am now on to my third road bike and will probably get a Specialized Roubaixs with Ultegra or better.

If you plan to ride, I would spend more at 50 you should have some cash and you only live once.

I also find that Ultegra does not need adjustment so you save on repair cost.

I believe that a 30 min spin on a bike at the LBS will tell you whether you hate a bike and not whether you will love a bike - that will take lots of saddle time. My feeling on fittings is that they get you close but you need to take your wrenches out on a few long rides and dial it in along the way, it takes time in the saddle to get it just so. There is a tradeoff between power and comfort and with a bad back, comfort might be a better way to go for now.

It has been repeated many times in this thread already - get good componenets, 105 is a minimum and probably the right choice from a value perspective. One thing you need to look out for though, many new bikes have a few real shimano parts and then a lot of chinese knockoff parts - like the brakes - there OK but they are not Shimano.

I got bit by the fever two seasons ago and bought a new Tarmac expert (Ultegra) - good bike, rides well, quick and lite but I don't love it, it took me three months to come to that conclusion. I changed the wheels before the originals ever hit the pavement - that way I could ebay them as new. I ride it a lot on short rides (<50 mile) but my distance bike is still my old steel bike, last summer it got a new carbon compact chorus group.

Good luck.

OK.... The post has been up for 3 days and no pics yet.

Falling down on the 50+ commitments already?:innocent:

Waiting for it to stop raining so I can go check out all the other bikes I want to try. So it will be another week or so before I can actually pick up the bike I finally choose!

Thanks for all the great info. I asked on this forum about the components and in that thread it was pretty unanimous to go with the 105 components, so I think the Sequoia Elite would be a good upgrade as it has better components throughout, plus a 10 speed cassette. So it sounds like it would be a great first bike and then as I figure out what the heck I'm doing then I'll look at a different bike or even building one on my own.

COOL!
:**

It does seem like a good choice for a starter bike and it will be easy to sell if you want something different. BUT...I have an aluminum Cannondale MTB and *I* think aluminum frames suck. (It is going on e*ay) They are not forgiving and transmit a lot of 'shock'. A steel frame is a lot more forgiving. Ever seen a spring made from aluminum? See if the LBS will let you ride the Elite for a few hours or find a shop that will rent you one or whatever B4 you part with your $$$.

Just to throw a wrench in the gears have a look at http://store.somafab.com/somasmoothiees.html it may not cost much more than the Elite to build. Only you know how bad you back is. *I* still think a good steel frame is the way to go. Think comfort.

I was wondering about an aluminum frame vs the other types, but for now I think it will be OK as most everything in my price range is aluminum. I'll see if they have anything equivalent in steel though.

I was wondering about an aluminum frame vs the other types, but for now I think it will be OK as most everything in my price range is aluminum. I'll see if they have anything equivalent in steel though.

I would not bother about the material- unless it is heavy Steel- overbuilt aluminium or lightweight C.F. The test ride will soon tell you if you do not like the material it is made of. And I do have Overbuilt ally - lightweight ally- Double butted chromoly steel and C.F. The overbuilt Ally has a stiff feel to it- but all of the bikes ride fine.

See if an LBS near you can get you on a demo for a couple Saturday group rides. If you could put a Sequoia and a Roubaix thru 20 miles, you should get an idea if your back will take a more aero position. If so, you'll be more encouraged to ride more, since faster is funner. Here in Midwest, we may be late, but 2008 Specialized demos here are going on sale next month. See if this is case in Cali.

I was wondering about an aluminum frame vs the other types, but for now I think it will be OK as most everything in my price range is aluminum. I'll see if they have anything equivalent in steel though.

There are a few more choices in steel now than a couple of years ago, but it is still pretty rare at the lower and mid ranges. Brands like Jamis, Masi and Raleigh do have some steel bikes in your range woth a look. The Soma frame mentioned above would make for a great bike, but probably would cost upwards of $1500 for a good 105 build. Most any LBS can get Soma frames through a distributor.

"I'm still going to check out a couple other bikes just for fun, and the teenager that still buried in me somewhere loves all the high-end super race bikes, but I know they aren't right for me."

I competed locally in the early 80's. After the '84 Olympics aero everything was pushed at the local shops.
It was really a joke...unless you were in fact an elite athlete. The trend still in that direction at most shops. I rode a Rossin...a stage racing frame that was very comfortable BUT 20mm tires must be inflated
to high pressure and they can get very squirrelly on sand or gravel and the ride can be rough on less than perfect roads.

Fast forward to age 57. I mentioned the Cannondale aluminum MTB earlier. It was not comfortable even though it had fat tires. I used it as a road bike. :cry: I started on a search for a good all around bike but racing was not in the mix. I ended up getting a Rivendell Bleriot frame (lugged steel frame) on e*ay. When I took it to the LBS to have it built they thought I was nuts...until they rode it. Think Buick Electra 225. I :love: this bike. I can ride all day and be ready to go the next day. Roads, grass, decent trails. :D

I got a nice lugged steel Panasonic 7500 mid 80's MTB with a Tange Prestige frame/ Deore XT on Craig's list. :thumb:

Aluminum is easier and cheaper to build but does not ride like steel. End of story.

Ride a steel frame B4 you buy. Just my opinion.

Most of my local shops will let you try a bike for a few hours, I believe, but I don't really know enough to be able to evaluate what I need yet. I hope to try a few more bikes this week as it's supposed to stop raining in a day or two and be in the 80's, temp-wise, so I'll see what seems to feel better. Just so many freakin choices!

If you are in the LA area it shoukd be easy to find a good used bike that fits you. Service it and ride it. Putting some time on a bike is how you will decide/find out what you really want. :thumb:

If you are in the LA area it shoukd be easy to find a good used bike that fits you. Service it and ride it. Putting some time on a bike is how you will decide/find out what you really want. :thumb:

Bout 400+ miles north.

Don’t worry about material as much as fit and how it feels to you. ;) What works for a MTB has little to do in road bikes. No one will recommend shocks or disk brakes for a road bike. Very few will suggest drop bars and STI shifters for a MTB. :innocent: Steel, Aluminum or CF all have their advantages and for different reasons. You have picked pretty well considering your specifications now just find the bike that fits you and don’t look back till you know what N+1 should be. Our opinion is close to worthless after this point because if it weren’t there wouldn’t be so many people with a different brand and quality level of bike. And of course some of us have a favorite color.:lol:

Don’t worry about material as much as fit and how it feels to you. ;) What works for a MTB has little to do in road bikes. No one will recommend shocks or disk brakes for a road bike. Very few will suggest drop bars and STI shifters for a MTB. :innocent: Steel, Aluminum or CF all have their advantages and for different reasons. You have picked pretty well considering your specifications now just find the bike that fits you and don’t look back till you know what N+1 should be. Our opinion is close to worthless after this point because if it weren’t there wouldn’t be so many people with a different brand and quality level of bike. And of course some of us have a favorite color.:lol:

Which is white, of course. :roflmao2:

Which is white, of course. :roflmao2:

I didn’t mention any names or color. :p But even my N+1 was a different color, or lack of color than my first bike. :innocent: But I think the black stubby bar ends make it faster.:D


http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff346/Boaz47/HPIM1772.jpg

Colour is only imprtant on one make of bike. Unless it is white- but a few wet rides and you won't notice that colour

Colour is only imprtant on one make of bike. Unless it is white- but a few wet rides and you won't notice that colour

I hardly ever get real wet. If I am going to be out when it is very damp the Trek takes the hit. But mostly if I get things dirty it is simply dust from riding on dirt. The Trek is about half red and half white.

You'll have to try a wet ride sometime- The last thing you notice is the colour of the bike.

Picked up a 08 elite at the end of March, so far 250 miles and loving it. I'll be 53 on the 19th and suffer from herniated disks in my neck (hockey, skiing and dirt bikes). I had been riding a Trek 7200 for a few years and got tired of throwing $$$ at it (pedals/seat/bars-stem/tires) I did a lot of research and tire kicking and settled on the elite. Its fast, comfortable (well I'm still fighting numbies after changing the seat to a 143 avatar) light enough and handles great. Good luck and enjoy whatever you decide to ride!!!