Bicycle Mechanics - Road bike headset question

My bike has developed indexed steering (alas, only one direction ;) ), so I've been looking at replacement headsets. And (surprise!) it looks like I have a choice of spending a few bucks or a bundle.

I know squat about headsets, so I'm interested opinions and suggestions. I'm not interested in shelling out $$$$ for something because it weighs, say, 2 grams less than a stock Ultegra. On the other hand, if some brand has a better bearing configuration (say, rollers instead of balls), I'd be willing to cough up for that. How much do I need to replace... cups as well as bearings? Is it a job better left to a shop?

The bike has the classic standard (as opposed to integrated) headset, 1" steerer, quill-type stem, etc.

Thanks in advance....

You will need to replace the entire headset. Unless you have the tools, it's best to leave it to your LBS to do the job.

As far as how much to spend, I'd ask myself how long did the original last? If it was long enough, considering replacement cost with the same or equal unit, then go with that. If you are extra hard on headsets, move up to a stronger unit.

If you have an Ultegra unit, you probably only need to replace the bearing units. I just did mine for about $50, and the indexing went away. Not a bad price for about 5 years of service.

I found I was going through headsets every year. I changed to Stronglight Delta and have had the same headset for three years. It's been great.

You can install your own headset either with an expensive headset press (Link) (http://www.parktool.com/tools/HHP_2.shtml), or you can make your own press with some nuts, washers and allthread(Link) (http://www.mtbsa.co.za/technical/tfiles/headsetreplacement.htm) . Personally, I do all my own bike maintenance except for installing headsets, but I keep thinking next time I'll make up my own headset press.

If you are going to do anything to your headset, and its threaded you
have a few options.
Look for a NOS Campy SR headset, they were the pinnacle of campy HS production.
Not all that light, but they did the job well.
There were some interesting designs out late in the game (for threaded that is),
American Classic had some interesting designs, and Edco Competition was well
thought of as well.
If it were my bike? I'd get a Chris King Threadset, its the last headset you
will need because its bullet proof. Design has been around for a long time
(late 70's,early 80's?).

Marty

I would absolutely NOT spend the money to convert to a threadless design. I have two different steel road bikes. A year or so ago I picked up a carbon fork with a threadless steerer and converted one of the bikes. The threadless stem is a bit more difficult to adjust (there are 2 tension ajustements versus 1). The carbon fork might provide an improved ride over an aluminum fork, but I replaced a good steel alloyed fork with the carbon: dumb. If you see less weight as a justification for the conversion to a carbon fork, do it. But any theoretical performance improvement won't be detectable.

I found I was going through headsets every year. I changed to Stronglight Delta and have had the same headset for three years. It's been great.

You can install your own headset either with an expensive headset press (Link) (http://www.parktool.com/tools/HHP_2.shtml), or you can make your own press with some nuts, washers and allthread(Link) (http://www.mtbsa.co.za/technical/tfiles/headsetreplacement.htm) . Personally, I do all my own bike maintenance except for installing headsets, but I keep thinking next time I'll make up my own headset press.


I've installed all my headsets with a block of 2x4 and a hammer. Just go slowly and make sure you tap gently and evenly - i've never had a problem. Also i took an old handlebar, and splayed the ends out. It makes a good tool to bang out the cups on the other end for removal. As far as the fork crown race, just be inventive. I think for my last one i took a wrench that had the same diameter as the steerertube and just banged it down.

-Brent

I would absolutely NOT spend the money to convert to a threadless design. I have two different steel road bikes. A year or so ago I picked up a carbon fork with a threadless steerer and converted one of the bikes. The threadless stem is a bit more difficult to adjust (there are 2 tension ajustements versus 1). The carbon fork might provide an improved ride over an aluminum fork, but I replaced a good steel alloyed fork with the carbon: dumb. If you see less weight as a justification for the conversion to a carbon fork, do it. But any theoretical performance improvement won't be detectable.

Sorry, bit off the topic:

I think I've gotta agree. I put a carbon fork (not a top quality one) on my old 531 bike, mainly just to get the handle bars higher, and I really miss the 'springyness' of the old steel fork -- but my back won't let me bend over any more. I've thought about putting a better carbon fork on, but they are all so chunky that I can't imagine any of them bouncing along like a steel fork.

My bike has developed indexed steering (alas, only one direction ;)

If your headset is tighter in one direction of rotation than the other, that indicates that your headtube ends are not parallel and need to be faced. If you decided to replace your headset anyway, you should take the extra step of having your LBS face the headtube--this involves using a special abrasive tool that grinds off any high spots from the ends to ensure that the end faces are parallel.

It's and indication of poor workmanship that the bike was assembled without this being properly done to begin with.

Dave

If you are going to replace the headset, go for a higher-end product like the Chris King. I've replaced a Cane Creek S-2 with an S-6 because the original rusted the bearings in the chase. Sealed to keep water out, or sealed to keep water in.

i would not use a headset other than chris king, at this point.

that said, in the near future, i am going to be swapping out my old serotta F1 carbon blade/853 steerer threaded fork for a new ouzo pro fork and threadless CK headset.

the F1 fork is a great ride, but it's an absolute beast in terms of weight. i'll be losing nearly a pound on the fork alone, losing the weight of the quill-to-threadless stem converter thingie i'm using, and 10 or 15 more g on the headset.

i'm far from a gram counting weenie, but this will bring my steel serotta down to around 18lbs. not bad!

DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON A HIGH END HEADSET!!! The headset is the least likely component to fail; and it will not improve your performance. I had a Stronglight (can't remember the model) that had over 100,000 miles on it before I replaced it. BUT it wasn't even wore out yet, I just got tired of a black headset and wanted a silver one!!!

There are plenty of very good medium priced headsets on the market including: Ritchey Logic, Shimano Dura Ace, Campy Record and others that are all under $60. The Chris King is over $100!! Even the Shimano Ultrega or the Campy Chorus for under $40 would last probably longer than you will have the bike!!

No new content... just a quick thanks to all for your input!