Tandem Cycling - Tandem rack question

Those that have racks that are above the car and that hook up the fork first [then lift the tandem to the back of the rack] I have a question for you. When you hook up the fork [wheel off] to the front does that point pivot? I am assuming that it would since you would have to lift the back end of the tandem to put it on the rear of the rack. I am building a rack and I am running into this issue. I guess I could have the quick release loose so the drop outs do not bind too bad and then retighten it when it is secured to the rack but that seems to be a little harsh with a carbon fork [with bonded drop outs]. I was thinking of running some bearings that would allow the fork to be tighten securely and still be able to move the back end to the rack.
Any information would be appreciated.

It does on some but not all tandem racks. A pivoting fork mount is nice for higher vehicles where lifting and placing the bike into the rack in one set is difficult. Less of an issue on lower roofs.

I built mine to pivot. You can see pictures at: http://community.webshots.com/user/cyclesteve999

Considering the design and fabrication time involved, I would just purchase a rack from someone who has already built hundreds of these and will back up their product. I use a Tandem Topper from ATOC: http://www.atoc.com/. The company is in Everett, WA (I see that you're in Kent, WA) and the owner is Charlie Buchalter, who is also a member of the Evergreen Tandem Club: www.evergreentandemclub.org (http://www.evergreentandemclub.org). When using a roof-top rack that has a pivoting fork mount you must use a strap to hold the handlebars rigid, otherwise when you lift up the back end to swing the bike up onto the rack, the fork will just turn and the mount won't pivot. With my Subaru Outback I also need to roll the car window down to clear the crankset when getting the tandem fork into the rack's fork mount.

Considering the design and fabrication time involved, I would just purchase a rack from someone who has already built hundreds of these and will back up their product. I use a Tandem Topper from ATOC: http://www.atoc.com/. The company is in Everett, WA (I see that you're in Kent, WA) and the owner is Charlie Buchalter, who is also a member of the Evergreen Tandem Club: www.evergreentandemclub.org (http://www.evergreentandemclub.org). When using a roof-top rack that has a pivoting fork mount you must use a strap to hold the handlebars rigid, otherwise when you lift up the back end to swing the bike up onto the rack, the fork will just turn and the mount won't pivot. With my Subaru Outback I also need to roll the car window down to clear the crankset when getting the tandem fork into the rack's fork mount.


Those look like good solutions but for the mechanically inclined and or project junkies, A home built rack will set you back less than 25% of the cost of one of those. I am borrowing a rack on occasion now when I need it from my boss but will probably build my own soon for this very reason. Thule and Yakima also make very nice units.

If I was going to go to all the trouble to build one, I would copy the draftmaster

http://www.draftmaster.com/#dm

I have the Rocky Mounts tandem mount with the swivel and the tandem up there really lowers my gas mileage. I am quite happy with the price/performance of the RockyMount.

Those look like good solutions but for the mechanically inclined and or project junkies, A home built rack will set you back less than 25% of the cost of one of those.

Hey, I consider myself to be fairly mechanically inclined; after all, I work as an engineer for a large airplane manufacturer. If you like to tinker and have lots of time to do it - or if you're just cheap - then go ahead and build one. But be aware that while a rack with a rigid fork mount would be strong and simple to design and build, a pivoting fork mount adds play to the system and a higher risk factor. After spending close to 6 grand for a custom tandem I think that I can pony up $375 (or whatever it costs) to transport it on a rack with a proven design and that doesn't look like a cobbled-up piece of c**p on my car. Besides, I bought mine used off of Craigslist and paid only about $125 for it.

Check out the for sale forum (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=538945) someone is selling a Yakama Sidewinder for $200 new, thats a great deal on a sidewinder. Some people don't like the way it looks but I have one and it does the job it was intended for and I have had no issues with it.

Thanks for your ideas and suggestions. My concern is when you tighten the fork [to the front of the rack] when the rear wheel is down and then lift the back end of the bike, the amount of torque at the dropouts is going to be high [not side to side but up and down]. If I do not torque the front quick release very tight I am certain it will slip but I was wondering what other companys have done to solve this concern [or do I worry too much] I have an older Toyota 4Runner so the distance is high.

All I can tell you is that the Yakama Sidewinder rotates very easily at the fork lock when getting the back up into the rack it’s a one handed task no pressure at all I have no worry about the forks.

] I have an older Toyota 4Runner so the distance is high.

When we had our 4Runner and used it to haul tandems and bikes I just lifted the tandem over my head and then used a step ladder to get it up high enough to set it onto the front fork mount and rear tray from two different single bike mounts. Worked well on both our 4Runner and Suburban. Details HERE (http://www.thetandemlink.com/articles/cartopping.html) and photo of the 4Runner with our old MT3000 and my ProFlex 857 up top.

http://www.thetandemlink.com/articles/Cartopping/topn.jpg

All I can tell you is that the Yakama Sidewinder rotates very easily at the fork lock when getting the back up into the rack it’s a one handed task no pressure at all I have no worry about the forks.

Thanks what I was thinking but clamping the fork to the front mount and then tilting it up was getting me to think that it was going to have to rotate in the quick release and that might cause issues. Thanks for the help.

Hey, I consider myself to be fairly mechanically inclined; after all, I work as an engineer for a large airplane manufacturer. If you like to tinker and have lots of time to do it - or if you're just cheap - then go ahead and build one. But be aware that while a rack with a rigid fork mount would be strong and simple to design and build, a pivoting fork mount adds play to the system and a higher risk factor. After spending close to 6 grand for a custom tandem I think that I can pony up $375 (or whatever it costs) to transport it on a rack with a proven design and that doesn't look like a cobbled-up piece of c**p on my car. Besides, I bought mine used off of Craigslist and paid only about $125 for it.

+1

I have an ATOC Tandem Topper, and they are very well-designed and easy to use. I was worried about the amount of play in the joint and talked with the owner. He said that as long as the "sway" is less than 2" at the handlebar, then the play is within tolerance. I asked if they have ever had a tandem come off because the bolt broke, and he said no. He said that it is an aerospace bolt that is so strong you could hang the car from it. Sounds good to me, because our Burley Duet weighs about 53 pounds with no luggage (fenders, rack, 48-spoke wheels, drum brake, 5 water bottle mounts, two sidewall generators + lights).

Unless the OP can source similarly strong aerospace bolts, I'd be reluctant to trust a tandem rack to just any old bolt.

Also ... definitely need to hold the handlebars in place with a strap. The other day, I decided to shortcut my bicycle commute to work by driving in a few miles (I'd ridden a 300K a couple of days before, so decided to cut myself some slack). Since it was just a single, I didn't bother with the strap, and was not paying close attention and had not tightened the skewer tight enough to hold the bike, planning to tighten it the rest of the way once it was on top of the car (don't ask me why!). As I went to strap the rear wheel down, the bike came crashing down on my head. Fortunately, I was wearing my helmet, or I most certainly would have had a bad headache at least.

Nick

I understand about hardware and the proper amount of overengineering that needs to be put into a project to keep me happy while driving. My last hobby was Hang gliding. After 20 years of working on them I have never had an issue due to my attitude about overkill. I work on $500,000 cars and I have yet to have a problem that caused any real issues. I have a ATOC tandem rack but it does not swivel to allow an easy way to hook up my tandem. The fork hook up is too low and allows the center of the tandem to hit the rail. I figure if I have to raise the fork mount up I might as well make it swivel. Swiveling is the easiest part of my project. The torque generated by moving the rear end up with the fork clamped in was what I was concern about [esp with a carbon fork]. With all the input here I think it is a non issue. I will only use the rack for a ride back from the Seattle to Portland ride in July. Then it will probably rarely [if ever] used again. One thing for certain, the only way it will come off is if my stupid driving allows a trip thru the drive thru, garage, or well you know what I mean.