General Cycling Discussion - Buying used bikes- how?

OK I know this is a ******** question, but I know the bike I have right now is too small for me, and I want to ENJOY riding even more than I do now.

How do I spot a decent bike from a pile of crap? I know to look for machined parts instead of stamped, but what else?

Also, how do I size it right? I will find either a mountain bike or a road/tour bike, doesn't matter too much to me just gotta find something worthwhile. Seems like pawn shops around here (reno) want $$ for garbage, and the thrift stores want $30-50 for most bikes. I found a nice road bike but it was too small, I THINK. What is a quick way I can figure out if its the right size?

I'm 6'2" and from my femur to the floor is 39 1/4 inches, not sure what inseam is have to check.

Any advice for a total n00b? I've read books on how to size and stuff, but I just don't get it. Too many measurements for my little brain to comprehend! :p

Thanks folks!

Well, I think you are on the right track on the alloy vs stamped thing. The more aluminum you find the better. If you can't ID it, take a magnet with you and touch it on the stem, bars, chainrings, etc. Look for bikes with bolt-on cranks instead of one-piece cranks or cotters (cranks pinned on). There are some good bikes from the late 70's and 80's out there. Look under the seats for date codes stamped into them. Usually if it's Japanese and around that old, it's a good bike. To me, a lugged steel frame is a good sign as well. Tough, and durable. Non lugged steel = heavy department store bike. Stay away, unless buying for general parts to fix a better bike.

As for size, sit on the bike and put a pedal a 6-o'clock. With your HEEL on the pedal, your leg should be straight. If so, the bike is big enough. It's tough unless you can ride one around to be perfectly sure.

Enjoy your quest! I've found several decent bikes lately for less than $10.00, and you should be able to as well.

Pat

Go to a Lbs if you are that unshure of frame sizing, You need to figure your reach\toptube. the seat is adjustable and stem\headset can adjust for minor frame sizing.
Also a thrift store bike is a LOT of work usually. OR don't fix and forget- $25?
A Lbs bike will have a gaurentee and be properly maintained.
You MAY find a jewel, chances are it under a lot of dirt, rust.

Mtb, avoid lugged frames, unless it has some famous guys name on the tube.
Check component manufactures, look for custom or high end gruppo?
You can also just buy a bike for parts- old mtb @ the garage sale, frame sucks but a Botranger\Deore wheelset? $35? Uhhh, yea. Wheelsets are hundreds.

Classifieds are good, and also, frame inspection for cracks, dents, rotate the cranks-see how the drive rolls.
Anything not smooth is a moneypit-or a summer DIY.-moneypit.
Generally a 'good' old bike will be well looked after, it is\was a sweet ride. A bike that sucked will be neglected, nobody liked riding it.

And IF, you wanted to fix\restore a bike, I'm shure you can get all the advice here on BF to get it running, sweet folks\good advice-(me excluded ;) )

You can get poor, heavy lugged frames, with the tubes cut straight and hidden beneath the lug rather than mitered to fit closely.
The best method for IDing quality is to look at the rear dropouts (where the axle bolts on). If they are made from stamped steel plate, then its a low-end bike. If it is an investment-cast piece, thicker with more detailed mouldeing, then its probably a quality bike. Cheap lugged frames use cheap lugs with straight-cut ends. Good lugs often have curved ends, and really nice ones have curvy bits and cutouts.
Henryjames.com has some examples of lugs and dropouts.

While you are looking at those rear dropouts, watch for axle adjusting screws, a good indicator for a quality vintage frameset.

Also look at the dropouts, the good ones are stamped that say "Campagnola" or "Suntour" in a semi circle on the outside right where the cutout where the quick release clamps onto. If you look closely at the picture ollo ollo gave you will see what appears to be some sort of small dashes or lines inside a semi circle just ahead of the adjustment screw. Those dashes or lines if we had a high resolution picture would be letters.

Thanks for all this helpful advice!

Look for frame stickers (learn to recognize the remains of old reynolds 531 stickers; the don't wear real well). Anything steel, lugged, and double-butted is a very good bet. Go for cro-moly over hi-ten steel. Dropouts can be by a variety of manufacturers, "Simplex" , "Gipemmie" and many others come to mind aside from the ones listed above. You can also find very nice framesets w/o the above axle screws; many early treks and puegeots, even the high end, lacked them. Axle screws are a very good sign, tho.

My experience with LBSs suggests there is no gaurantee as to the quality of their assembly or service. Find a decent thrift store bike, get a good manual (Zinns comes to mind, there are others) and learn to do it yourself. Short term, it's a hassle; long term, the experience will be invaluable.

One thing to do is take a long piece of twine and a ruler. Tie the twine about one rear dropout, run it over the head-tube and then to the opposite rear drop-out. Measure the distancefrom the twine to the seat tube on both sides. If the measurements are equal, good sign, if they're not, don't buy. Loosen the seat post bolt and see if you can turn the seat; do the same for the stem. If neither one comes free, abandon all hope; these two things can be a pain to get loose.

There's a good frame sizing tool online at www.wrenchscience.com (http://www.wrenchscience.com). Enter your measurements and it will tell what size frame you should be riding. It's a step-by-step process...pretty easy to do. Keep in mind that it's a bit general...a good LBS can probably give you a better fit. But, hey, it's free!

You guys are helping me out a TON. THANK YOU!