Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - What type of seat bag?

I'm biking cross country this summer and it's a supported ride, and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for what type of behind-the-seat bag i should get. Right now I have one, it's big enough for a lock, and I was wondering if anyone knows of one thats a decent size for anything I might want to carry with me, such as a rain jacket, tubes or something like that. Also it would help if you think of something I should carry in the back. Thanks.

What I use:

http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FMW3

I can even roll up a Panaracer Pasela TG, and stuff it in there with lots of space left for tools, rain gear, and food.

I'm seriously considering this bag.
http://www.arkel-od.com/panniers/seat_bag/overview.asp?fl=1&site=
-Gene-

Depends on the situation and how independent you need to be.

Randonneurs favour smaller bags, either handlebar or seat bags. You might get some ideas on this page (http://www.veloweb.ca/randopages/randokit.html)for gear to carry and there's a link to smaller bag info.

I'm biking cross country this summer and it's a supported ride, and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for what type of behind-the-seat bag i should get. Right now I have one, it's big enough for a lock, and I was wondering if anyone knows of one thats a decent size for anything I might want to carry with me, such as a rain jacket, tubes or something like that. Also it would help if you think of something I should carry in the back. Thanks.

Even if it's a supported ride, I'd guess you need to be semi-independent during the day, if only because you could potentially get off-course and out of cell-phone range. So you need an emergency repair kit plus clothes to handle the likely weather conditions plus enough food to tide you over. I'd suggest getting a saddlebag that's big enough to carry your repair kit (incl. two innertubes) plus a light raincoat and helmet cover, plus arm and leg warmers and toe covers and maybe even some very light outer gloves. It gets cold in the desert at night, and you might have ride starts that are pretty chilly. Or if you got caught in a heavy downpour or were out after dark. And get a small handlebar bag for your food plus "medicine cabinet" (sun stuff, chamois lube, ibuprofen, TP, wipes, whatever) plus wallet, camera, navigation stuff ... It is extremely convenient to have stuff right at hand so you don't have to stop and fiddle around for it.

The Lone Peak Alta H-100 is a very nice handlebar bag, but might be too big and interfere with your shifter cables (if you're running STI). So you could look at the H-075 further down the page at http://www.thetouringstore.com/LONE%20PEAK/LP%20H-bar%20Packs/H100%20H-BAR%20PACK%20PAGE.htm

JandD makes nice stuff, too, like http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FMBHP2

If a handlebar bag won't work for you, a frame pack &/or "bento box" top tube pack might be handy, instead. See http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FSBZ and http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FFP. Both of these put stuff where it's easy to grab.

Are you talking a little bag for tools & innertubes, or a bag that can hold stuff like lunch & raingear? I have a carradice bag from Rivendell that I like, though the leather with brass buckles is less convenient than modern materials.

Look here (http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=List&SubCategory=Accessories:%20Bags). Free shipping and no tax. I recommend Jandd bags. I only buy Jandd bags and racks. But like they say, "whatever blows your hair back" or "whatever winds your clock."

A seat bag is mostly for repair essentials, if you get one too big like the Carradice's they can repeatly contact the back of your thigh everytime you pedal. But the small ones that sit under the seat are great; mine is a expandable wedge style and it hold a lot of stuff. I have a tightly folded spare tire, new tube in it's box, Park MTB3 minitool, small folding pliers, tire irons, QuikStik (for fast removal and replacement of tire), 6 glueless patches (they work just as good as the glue type without the hassles), bats for front and rear flashers and the computer, small almost useless first aid, $50.75 cash, cards for phone, id, insurance, key for house. And yes, it all crams into a under the seat out of the way expandable wedge seat bag!

For jackets and easy access to food a handlebar bag is a must. Again Carridice bags are very expensive and very heavy you can do better with less money.

You can get very roomy handlebar bags for decent prices at: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=23924&subcategory_ID=2312
If this will get into the way of your light (if your going to need a headlight) then get a smaller handle bar bag. The wedge seat bag looks like this:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=23826&subcategory_ID=2310

If you have good bike handling skills you can get into a saddlebag while riding, just pack it so that the stuff you need is near the opening. I did a north to south ride through Cali last year and used the larger Jandd saddle bag and it worked out fine.
I personally don't like handlebar bags because I like to be able to see down there, and I also race road bikes and it just seems not aero to me but I could be wrong, but that is just a personal preference. A lot of people swear by them.

<snip> I also race road bikes and it just seems not aero to me but I could be wrong, but that is just a personal preference. A lot of people swear by them.Actually, testing shows bar bags make you more aero. Makes sense, because it blocks some of the air from the wedge formed by your torso and legs. Still, I don't use one, making do with a bento box, which is a silly name. If I were doing PBP, I definitely get one.

For rides in mostly populated areas, I use a largish Trek clip-on saddle bag, which I like because I can cut off the seatpost velcro, which always wears holes in my shorts and then my thighs. For rides where I'm going to want a spare tire and more stuff, I use the middle size Detours seatpost rack bag. 8 lb. limit on that bag, so not good for real touring. But the seat post attachment is very leg and shorts friendly.

I like Carradice bags. Plenty of sizes from which to choose, solid sturdy materials and construction, and a good traditional look. The straps and buckles aren't as quick and easy to work with as some other fastening systems, but I'm willing to take that trade-off. Their Zipped Roll is my default bag, and I swap that out only when I need something larger for longer rides.

Two downsides to Carradice:

1) Availability is spotty in the US; as good as their bags are, their ability to keep their distributors well-stocked is not up to par. Some distributors have become so frustrated that they've stopped carrying Carradice. I got so frustrated with the unavailability that last year I ordered the bags I wanted directly from Carradice, although I had to wait a bit because even they were low on some stock.

2) The bags intended to be anchored by strapping around the seat post come so far forward that my thighs rub against them. I don't like that. I don't have that problem with the Zipped Roll, but as soon as I step up to larger bags I have to use a Bagman support, which are just great---but nearly impossible to find now (see #1).

Velo-Orange makes a bag similar to the Zipped Roll that's pretty nice, too.

[QUOTE=Carbonfiberboy;8971677]Actually, testing shows bar bags make you more aero. Makes sense, because it blocks some of the air from the wedge formed by your torso and legs. Still, I don't use one, making do with a bento box, which is a silly name. If I were doing PBP, I definitely get one.

This has a certain logic to it. I could see how your legs and torso would have a wedge effect

I personally don't like handlebar bags because I like to be able to see down there, and I also race road bikes and it just seems not aero to me but I could be wrong, but that is just a personal preference. A lot of people swear by them.

What do you mean by: "I like to be able to see down there..."? There's nothing important happening down where the handle bar is blocking the view, or do you like to stare at the front tire and the pavement directly in front of and under the tire while riding? If this is in someway true then you are an accident waiting to happen! And don't give me some irrational thing about being able to see road debris, your peripheral vision should catch most things. Or is it some other reason you need to look down there that I've overlooked because maybe it happens so automatically I'm not thinking about it?

What do you mean by: "I like to be able to see down there..."? There's nothing important happening down where the handle bar is blocking the view, or do you like to stare at the front tire and the pavement directly in front of and under the tire while riding? If this is in someway true then you are an accident waiting to happen! And don't give me some irrational thing about being able to see road debris, your peripheral vision should catch most things. Or is it some other reason you need to look down there that I've overlooked because maybe it happens so automatically I'm not thinking about it?

I have avoided last second road debris by being able to see my front tire.

I have avoided last second road debris by being able to see my front tire.

That's what I thought you would say!!

This is the most ridiculas statement that could ever be said, but unfortunately too many cyclists do this! Car drivers do the same thing by the way, except their not looking for debris. It appears that most people drive cars and bikes by looking no further than a few feet in front of them. This way of driving or riding will and does lead to accidents whether your fault or not. The longer you remain focused on an area the more tunnel your vision becomes which means the less you see around you. Also by focusing on an area a few feet in front of you means you could easily, and this is why a lot of cyclists and car drivers have accidents because they didn't see what was going on up ahead. You should be looking ahead at least a 1/10th of mile on bicycle (further in a car) and constantly moving your eyes to prevent the stare and thus tunnel vision. In car you need to be checking all your mirrors every 5 to 7 seconds, and those of you that have mirrors on you bicycles should be doing the same thing.

The further you can look ahead the quicker you will see possible trouble.

I practiced this way of riding (and driving) since I was in high school and never have any more flats then the rest of you. I can still see road debris coming at me then I can look at to see which way to move the bike to avoid stuff. I ride on long trips all the time with a handlebar bag and it doesn't bother me the least.

I race road bikes as well, and have been racing for twenty years. Back in the day when tires were not as good as now you always wanted to be able to look down and check to see if there was anything stuck to the tire that might work its way through and cause a flat (thorn, tiny speck of glass, little sharp rocks, etc, and if there were, be able to reach down there while riding and put your glove pad agaisnt it to try to knock it loose. Not something you do in a peloton with guys two inches from you on all four sides, but something you do when you have a foot or so of space to work with or you get in a single file paceline. It is also nice to be able to reach down there to adjust your brake right or left if you just crashed, hopped back on and started riding, and saw your brake was rubbing.
We all have habits and preferences. Not all of them are necessarily logical. Some of them supremely logical.
You certainly do not need to act so rude about it, FROZE, I am sure if people examined the way you ride or set up your rig or whatever there would be plenty of things people could come up with reasons why something might not be totally logical.
Don't be such a tool.

And BTW, my wife who is new to riding, loves using a handlebar bag and I cannot find any reason why she shouldn't, if she likes it.
Another reason I don't like them is if they are rigid, if it is not full things tend to rattle around and the sound can be annoying. I like to hear the mechanics of my bike so I know everything is dialed in. But then again, I am a little anal about my bikes.

my suggestion for your supported ride is use the bag you have, ditch the lock, put in a new tube, patch kit , a couple of co2 bottles and a nozzle for the co2. oh and i bet two tire levers might come in hany too.

I race road bikes as well, and have been racing for twenty years. Back in the day when tires were not as good as now you always wanted to be able to look down and check to see if there was anything stuck to the tire that might work its way through and cause a flat (thorn, tiny speck of glass, little sharp rocks, etc, and if there were, be able to reach down there while riding and put your glove pad agaisnt it to try to knock it loose. Not something you do in a peloton with guys two inches from you on all four sides, but something you do when you have a foot or so of space to work with or you get in a single file paceline. It is also nice to be able to reach down there to adjust your brake right or left if you just crashed, hopped back on and started riding, and saw your brake was rubbing.
We all have habits and preferences. Not all of them are necessarily logical. Some of them supremely logical.
You certainly do not need to act so rude about it, FROZE, I am sure if people examined the way you ride or set up your rig or whatever there would be plenty of things people could come up with reasons why something might not be totally logical.
Don't be such a tool.

Of course I need to act rude, how else will I get your attention?

I'm 56, I raced in 70's and 80's as well. Let me tell you, I find it hard to believe you did and survived! How's that for rude? Here's my reasoning; if you spent your time staring at the ground a few feet in front of tire how did you avoid the person or persons in front making a turn or slowing or crashing...etc, you get the picture? no of course you didn't get the picture your still staring down at your wheel!!!

And if you were so concern about flats, back then most racers sported the (I can't remember the proper name for it), U shaped thorn flicker that attached to your front brake and hovered just fractions of an inch off the tire, so that as the tire picked up something the U shaped device would flick if off before you hit again certainly causing a flat?

There I go again being rude and twice in one posting.