Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Seatpost - Moving seat forward - question

I have been working to adjust my new Sequoia Elite over the last couple weeks and I need some advice on a seat post. The thing I found using a Forte seat post LINK (http://www.amazon.com/FortE-Forte-Precision-Seatpost/dp/B0011ZBB60), that I couldn't get the seat far enough forward, so for the heck of it I turned the post around and tried that. Well it made a huge difference. I found my sit bones! So the issue I have is this post used backwards doesn't quite have the tilt adjustments I need for the fine tuning. So I need suggestions for an offset seat post that I can use "backwards" and still have enough tilt adjustments.

I am sure if I had the money for a fitting they could adjust the stem and other stuff to get me centered over the seat with out need of an offset seat post, but this actually feels good, and if I can get a fair priced seat post I will try this route for now.

So has anyone else ended up using an offset post in this manner with success?

Thanks for any input.

You usually see tri guys using forward-offset seatposts. I'd be concerned if you couldn't properly fit on your bike without using a post like that.

That said, would a zero-offset post do the trick? Lots more road guys seem to use those.

Are you sure you need to be that far forward? On a normal road fit your saddle should be set so that the front of your knee is plum with the pedal spindle with cranks level. Maybe 1 or 2 cm either way for fine tuning your comfort. The tri guys pull there saddles forward because their bars are extremely low.

If you are adjusting your saddle to change the cockpit length, you need to invest in a few stems of different lengths to try out or get a fitter to spend some time with you swapping them out.

What he said. The saddle should be adjusted to the cranks, otherwise you'll have knee problems. Then the stem and bars may need swapping out for your upper body position.

It sounds like you have found the comfortable distance between saddle and bars. Measure that, turn your seat post back around, get the saddle adjusted so your knee is over the pedal (as noted above) then figure out what length stem will get your bar to saddle length where it is now.

It sounds like you have found the comfortable distance between saddle and bars. Measure that, turn your seat post back around, get the saddle adjusted so your knee is over the pedal (as noted above) then figure out what length stem will get your bar to saddle length where it is now.

x2! Great advice!

Sounds like good advice. All I know is that as soon as I moved the seat forward almost all of my foot pain went away and I felt "centered" on the seat. I am trying to sell the other bikes I have so I can afford to be fit properly and be able to swap the stem and whatever else I need to, plus get the wheels I want built up. I guess till then I will work with what I have.

Thanks for the replies.

I am storing my information on setforward seatposts here
http://www.triathlonfamily.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=8448

What he said. The saddle should be adjusted to the cranks, otherwise you'll have knee problems.

Does this rule translate to crank forward bikes in any way?

You said your bike was new so we have to assume it was bought with your height and body in mind. You haven't mentioned any of that? Self fitting is ok IMO but it should be gone into with some general understandings. Your body rests on the bike in 6 spots hands, feet and sit bones. The first thing I like to think about is try standing with your heals against the wall and try leaning forward. You will find you will fall forward as soon as your posture tries to become aerodynamic. Now put a chair out there to rest your hands on and you will feel most of your upper body weight on your hands. that’s the seat forward position. Now move out from the wall and bend over, what naturally happens is your butt moves back and your center of gravity stays over your feet rest your hand on the chair and you can put as little or as much of your weight on your hands as you want the weight is shared between your arms and your core muscles and even legs.

For me it starts with the crank it's fixed then seat height and position to have you balanced over feet and sit bones. Then frame length (top tube) You need to make that hand position last. If your body is totally "proportional" and the bike frame is sized perfect then you are one in a million and the stock setup should work. But for most there has to be some adjustment and the place for that is the bars and stem. Stem will adjust height and reach. Bars can also do both also, but most like to experiment with stems. If your stem has a cover plate that comes off to loosen bar you can try things without even removing bar tape. I like to use an adjustable stem and then after a few weeks of tweaking and I know it's what I want replace it with a fixed setup that has same measurements. But there is nothing wrong with using the adjustable long term. I have a adjustable on my tour bike and it's nice to know if need I can move it while on the road.

I am not the OP but I am in a similar situation. Folks recommend "fitting" but I would not have been able to afford my bike had I bought it at the LBS, so it is very nice to get fitting advice online. This is my form on my bike.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nihonbunka/4086187287/
The seat post is really high so that I am the distance I like from my pedals. Since the seat post is slanted backwards and up so high, my butt, and my knees appear to be behind my cranks. I know that I want to sit further forward because I alwas find myself sitting on the front end of my saddle. I bought a saddle with offset (USE Sumo 40cm with 10mm forward offset) but still my knees are behind my crank I think in the above photo. The distance to my handlebars feels okay as it is but I would like to get an even more forward offset set post and and then a longer stem.

I am aiming for the 30mm offset seat post (which can be reversed safely or not I do not know) but I have had no reply from USE
http://www.use1.com/product/000054/sumo-carbon-/
I think that it may be discontinued, as they said it was two years ago.

Had I bought a larger framed bike I guess this would have been corrected. I bought the M sized which was apparently for my height range. I have unnaurally long legs and a short torsoe it seems. I am glad I did not get fitted though. I would have had to purchase another aluminum frame. The poorly fitting Carbon frame has allowed me to shed 12 pounds and my knees do not hurt, yet.

If anyone knows another LONG forward offsetable seat post then please let me know.