Bicycle Mechanics - What tools do I need to replace my Campagnolo crank arms
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I bought a bike with 175mm Campagnolo Chorus crank arms. I've noticed that my performance on this bike is significantly worse (I'm slower and get tired quicker) than on other bikes and I'm thinking it comes down to the long crank arms (in combination with my short legs). I've found a set of 170mm Record crank arms on eBay that I'd like to swap out. I'm looking to buy some bike tools as I need them and will start here. What tools will I need to swap out the crank arms?
Also, the seller is also selling a Record Crank Arm Bolt that he claims I'll have to purchase to install the arms. Is that accurate?
I've use the self-extracting ones.... and I'm not a fan. I've seen and heard of too many stripping.
Ask the seller if the threads are reversed, If not, you can use regular bolts and extractor. Campy does some odd proprietary stuff. I stay away from it myself. It comes to bite you in the arse sometime in the future, always in the pocketbook.
Since when does a crank not come with bolts? Is it not part of the auction? If not, they're trying to scam you, and it's outside ebay's policy to do such practices.
Would this be Rocky Mtn. Cyclery by chance?
05-16-09, 01:20 PM
Assuming both crank sets are square taper then you will need to an 8mm allen wrench to remover the crank bolt and a crank arm extractor designed for square taper cranks such as the Park tool CCP-22 or the Campy UT-FC060.
A new set of campy cranks comes with the bolts and washers but when you buy on the used market you can run into people pulling all sorts of shinanigans.
You can use the bolts from your chorus cranks if you want. The bolts are the same for record and chorus, they don't indicate the gruppo, they just say "Campagnolo" and "Made in Italy" on them.
Uh oh, it is Rocky Mountain Cyclery. Is there a problem with the seller? Here's a link to the auction:
$57 shipped seems like a good price for Record crank arms, but I haven't checked around locally.
Well I just noticed that my current crank arms have 5 arms that attach to the chainrings and the Records he's selling only have 4, so I'll have to look for something else. Any recommendations?
05-16-09, 01:52 PM
I don't think this is a scam, but I do think its odd that they are marketing these as a new set. A new set of campy cranks has the arms, chainrings (pre-mounted), and hardware to mount them onto the bottom bracket. These are either replacement cranks arms that they have in stock to replace damaged arms, or they stripped the cranks down to sell off or use the bit piece parts separately.
I called the store that posted the auction you linked to and asked why they are not selling the cranks with the rings. They said that the place they got the cranks from sent them with the rings detached. Apparently they are selling the rings seperately, I think he quoted $48 for the 53T and $39 for the 39T. They have record rings listed in two other auctions but they do not appear to come with the chainring bolts either. They seem to be trying squeeze a nickel.
$57 shipped isn't too bad but if you look around you could find really good deals on Record square taper cranks. I bought mine new and complete from a Performance a year ago for about $130.00. These were the silver ones.
You could save some money by transplanting your chorus rings onto the record arms if you wanted.
****Bottom line is that this is a good deal if you need to replace one or both arms due to damage,ect. but if you are looking for a complete set you can do better elsewhere if you look around.****
The fifth is hidden behind the arm. You can see the bolt threading on one of the photos on the backside of the arm.
I don't know what kind of sellers they are..... I guess it's shocking to see Record Arms for $57. These are high end arms. People are nuts to dismiss them because it's tapered design. I say good for you, and they are a great set of arms.
As I said though, ask RMC about the threading on the arms, make sure it's regular right handed threading, then you can regular bolts/washers, and use a Park crank puller as stated previously. Do you have some regular crank bolts/washers? You can use the ones from the Chorus crank too.
05-16-09, 02:02 PM
Although the record cranks have 4 arms that the chainrings mount to, the crank arm itself acts as a the 5th and is drilled for a chainring bolt. The crank set in the auction you refer to will have a 135mm Bolt circle diameter.
What year is your chorus crankset? I think 2003 was the last year they used a 5 arm spider for chorus. All the photos I have found from 2004 to the present show 4 arm spiders (the back of the crank arm is the 5th attachment point).
I'm not sure what year the crankset is. On the back of the right crank arm it says BV-175  9x16" x 20. On the back of the left crank arm it says 175 [A1] 9x16" x 20.
Will the Pedro's Universal Crank Remover work? It looks like it might be a bit more durable than the Park CCP-22.
05-16-09, 02:48 PM
I guess it would work.
BTW...if your bike is setup properly you should have a bottom bracket with 102mm spindle. For the past handful of years Chorus and Record were the only campy cranks that used this length spindle. So if you decide to buy a different crankset other than Chorus or Record you may have to change your bottom bracket to a 111mm or 115mm for Campy. You will also probably need to change the BB if you go with a different manufacturer as JIS and ISO cranks should not be interchanged with the non-respective BB.
Alright, I bought the crank arms. Now I just need to figure out which tool to buy. I've narrowed it down to these two. Any advice?
Also, I assume I'll need some grease to put on the new crank arms. I'm placing an order at Harbor Bikes and see there are several different kinds; teflon, ceramic, synthetic, red, Phil Wood Waterproof. What should I go with? If the Phil Wood will work, I'll probably just go with that since I trust the name.
05-16-09, 04:49 PM
Greasing crank arms is source of much controversial discussion. There are two schools of thought...one is to grease the tapers of the bottom bracket and the other is to not grease them. Here is what campy says in the instructions that came with my record crankse (page 18 of the booklet):
"Before you assemble the cranks on the bottom bracket axle, degrease the axle and crankset square heads thoroughly. Never lubricate the bolts before tightening them."
I follow the school of thought that believes you should not grease the tapers. However, if I was doing the instal, I would grease the threads of the bolts before installing them. The only things I grease on a crankset are the chainring bolts, crank arm bolts, and threads that engage the pedals.
Go to autozone and get a tub of white lithium grease. It will last nearly your lifetime if you keep it from getting contaminated with grit. The major benefit to phil grease is that it usually comes in a tube...that keeps the contaminates out...its bit more expensive from what I recall and I have a tube on my workbench next to the white lithium grease. I use the phil when I overhaul bearings and the white lithium for fasteners, stems, seatposts, etc.
Campy square taper cranks are threaded for a 22X1mm extractor. Park states on their website that their CCP-22 is threaded 22x1mm (I am not pushing this tool btw, just stating what the website says). I checked the Pedros website and could not find any specs listed. I would recommend calling either pedros or harbor country and ask them...it should be fine in theory but don't assume, especially when doing mail order. I personally have one that looks similar to the 13020, but mine is over 20 years old...and I am not sure what brand it is at this point but it works great and fits all the cranks I have owned from 1986 to the present (22X1).
Wow, I'm glad I asked about the grease. That's good information to know. I've emailed Pedro's and I'll post their reply.
05-17-09, 08:32 AM
Deek, just another note:
Campy recommends a torque value of 23.6-28 ftlbs when installing the cranks on the bottom bracket. I would hate to read next week that your fubared your new record cranks due to improper torque.
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