mmerner
05-19-09, 07:59 AM
How do i remove the freebody from my Williams 30x? I see there are two holes on the non-drive side that may require a SPA-2.
Bicycle Mechanics - williams freebody removal
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bikeman715
05-19-09, 08:34 AM
you'll need to remove the axle, by removing the locknut,cone on the ND side,remove the axle from the drive side, use a 10 MM Allen wench to remove the bolt holding the freehub to the hub.( insde the hub ).
mmerner
05-19-09, 01:15 PM
Thats the thing, it doesn't have a locknuts.
here is a picture: http://www.williamscycling.com/resources/compatibility.html
here is a picture: http://www.williamscycling.com/resources/compatibility.html
bikeman715
05-19-09, 03:48 PM
can you remove the cone (the black thing in the photo )?
HillRider
05-19-09, 06:06 PM
you'll need to remove the axle, by removing the locknut,cone on the ND side,remove the axle from the drive side, use a 10 MM Allen wench to remove the bolt holding the freehub to the hub.( insde the hub ).
These are not Shimano freehubs. They are specific to Williams and apparently use sealed cartridge bearings and the freehub body seems to pull off once the retainer flange on the drive side is removed.
To the OP: did they come with an owner's manual or can you contact Williams to get specific instructions? Their web site doesn't offer much.
These are not Shimano freehubs. They are specific to Williams and apparently use sealed cartridge bearings and the freehub body seems to pull off once the retainer flange on the drive side is removed.
To the OP: did they come with an owner's manual or can you contact Williams to get specific instructions? Their web site doesn't offer much.
mmerner
05-19-09, 09:53 PM
Drive Side - two little holes bottom right.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2479/3547991286_9b95f4c8bf.jpg?v=1242791152
non drive, holes on top and bottom position.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3595/3547987376_179f369f49.jpg?v=1242791333
I think the SPA-2 might work here.
I don't have a manual. I got a new free freebody after I _may_ have broke the old one, so I'm trying to not bug them anymore.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2479/3547991286_9b95f4c8bf.jpg?v=1242791152
non drive, holes on top and bottom position.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3595/3547987376_179f369f49.jpg?v=1242791333
I think the SPA-2 might work here.
I don't have a manual. I got a new free freebody after I _may_ have broke the old one, so I'm trying to not bug them anymore.
mmerner
05-22-09, 07:22 PM
went to 2 LBSs today, neither had a SPA-2. one had *3* SPA-1's, but not a SPA-2.
Also BUMP.
Also BUMP.
mmerner
05-28-09, 09:54 PM
ok, I caved, from the horse himself:
Freehub Body Swapping.
Use two 5mm alan wrenches to remove drive side (Cassette side) end cap. Insert a 5mm alan wrench in each side of the rear hub. Pull cassette side end cap in counter-clock wise direction.
Slide the existing freehub body off the axle. Make sure the spacer behind the freehub body stays on the axle. Make sure pawls come out with the freehub body. Sometimes the pawls will stick inside the hub shell. If this happens, use fingers to pull them out.
With a cloth, clean the internal ratchet ring area.
Use light grease or oil on back of freehub body, ratchet ring and on the spacer. Place some grease on axle.
Slide on the new freehub body. Make sure it slides all the way in and the pawls engage the ratchet ring. Reinstall the drive side end cap.
Done.
Switching from Shimano to Campy or Campy to Shimano.
Note: Older hubs may need to have the rim dished over a 2 to 3mm for proper dishing. New hubs, as of the fall of 2008 do not require dishing.
Freehub Body Swapping.
Use two 5mm alan wrenches to remove drive side (Cassette side) end cap. Insert a 5mm alan wrench in each side of the rear hub. Pull cassette side end cap in counter-clock wise direction.
Slide the existing freehub body off the axle. Make sure the spacer behind the freehub body stays on the axle. Make sure pawls come out with the freehub body. Sometimes the pawls will stick inside the hub shell. If this happens, use fingers to pull them out.
With a cloth, clean the internal ratchet ring area.
Use light grease or oil on back of freehub body, ratchet ring and on the spacer. Place some grease on axle.
Slide on the new freehub body. Make sure it slides all the way in and the pawls engage the ratchet ring. Reinstall the drive side end cap.
Done.
Switching from Shimano to Campy or Campy to Shimano.
Note: Older hubs may need to have the rim dished over a 2 to 3mm for proper dishing. New hubs, as of the fall of 2008 do not require dishing.