Bicycle Mechanics - Need advice regarding spokes

Hello fellow cyclists,

I will be buying spokes for my wheel as the hub + rim of my current are still in good condition.

Edit:
RIMS : Alex ALX-290, 700c, alloy double wall, machined sidewalls
FRONT HUB: Alex ALX-290, 20 hole, sealed bearing, black
REAR HUB: Alex ALX-290, 24 hole, sealed bearing freehub, black

The measurements I received from the manufacturer are 285/287 mm for the rear and 278 mm for the front.

I have noticed that there is a lack of 285/287 mm spokes, and if they are around they cost extra.

How should I go about purchasing the spokes, I've spent some time researching and I haven't come across anyone with the same measurements or anything similar. I've read many suggestions that say to buy the same length spoke, how would this work?

Also anyone have a great deal on double butted spokes? black would be preferred. (I might just go with stainless steel)

What make of hub and rim is/are they?

A Class | Alex ALX-290, 422x14

do 284s and 286s come at standard price? Use them.

If those are the lengths for 3-cross, calculate the lengths for 2-cross. Or vice versa.

Are you suggesting that 2-cross will work better? Also what about the spokes, shall I go for double butted or straight gauge? I think the wheels originally came with 3-cross ( been looking into lacing patterns all day ). This will be my first time lacing a wheel, I'm doing so because I feel as though the spokes are getting old (one just broke recently) and my chain has come off a couple of times. I was planning on just lacing it as it was before, it worked well for a long time. I don't have the tool to measure in mm so it is somewhat problematic to get measurements for 2-cross... Also I was unable to find any information on the hub + rim.

I have noticed that there is a lack of 285/287 mm spokes, and if they are around they cost extra.


Don't know if you've seen this but the extra cost on top of the discount make them in line with the MSRP for the shorter spokes.
http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=85505&page=DT+COMPETITION+DB+2.0+1.8+SILVER+SPOKE

Ohhhh, thank you very much for that link bubbagrannygear. Much appreciated.

Yeah, I'd stick with the original lacing pattern and use double butted spokes. DT Swiss Competition 2.0 - 1.8 - 2.0 mm would be good. I also agree that going 1 mm shorter than what you calculated would be a good idea.

Al

Hey Al, is this because the spoke is stretched? bubbagrannygear found the exact spoke measurements for a great price.

Edit: Just got a reply from a representative at A Class with this info
Front: 20H, 278mm
Rear: 24H, 285/286mm(12H/12H)
Lacing: Front-Radial; Rear-2xcross.

Hm..... when I spoke to someone over the phone I was told that the rear was 285/287 not 285/286. Good thing I sent that e-mail. Problem now is that the link provided by bubbagrannygear doesn't have 286 mm :(.

Been looking at half crow's foot lacing, I would like to give it a try but I'm sure that it means new measurements are needed. I would think that 4 spokes would be 278 mm (half crow's foot has one radial spoke and 2 crossing correct?) and the other 8 at 285 mm (probably needs to be longer as it is suggested that they be the length of a 3x-cross lacing). I should probably just stick to 2x-cross lacing, eh? :P

Vorg, I'm saying that 2x is no better and no worse than 3x on a 32-spoke wheel. You will not notice a difference in the ride, weight, durability, anything. So use the spoke pattern based on the availability of spokes.

Double butted are better and are justified if you can afford them. If you can't, use straight gauge.

Don't use any spoke wacky spoke pattern. Just use 3x or 2x. There are no advantages to other patterns.

Use Jobst Brandt's book for building the wheel.

If you build the wheel well, the spokes will last for 20 or 30 years, barring a disaster. They don't normally get "old" i.e. fatigued. That happens if they're not adequately tensioned.

Thank you all for the advice and assistance. I will give it a go with db spokes and 2x lacing, will report back once I get things done.

I'd also double-check the numbers on a couple of spoke calculators.

Hey Al, is this because the spoke is stretched?

I was suggesting that if you can't buy the length you want it is better to go a mm shorter than longer. This is to avoid running out of threads and stretching can be an issue with double butted spokes.

I'd also double-check the numbers on a couple of spoke calculators.

+1 Try the DT Swiss calculator.

All I have to say is wow..... I just received another reply from the manufacturer and now they say its 285/288 mm for the rear ..... not sure what to go with now, don't have a measuring tool to be able to use a calculator :/. Is a 3 mm difference common?

Again thank you for your assistance everyone!

Your local bike shop should have a spoke ruler. Are they conveniently located?

Yes, yes they are. What should I take?

Two spokes from the rear, one from each side, plus a spoke from the front. You should gradually de-tension the wheel before removing these spokes.

Ok, will do. Thank you.