Bicycle Mechanics - Does this open clockwise or counter-clockwise? Picture inside.

I am taking apart bottom bracket on my bike and do not want to damage the thread.

So do I turn this CW or CCW? (My guess would be CW, but I need to make sure).

http://img3.uploadhouse.com/fileuploads/3991/3991243c79d55286f900fe78104a895b5573e13.jpg

Hard to say. There have been different standards through the years in different countries of origin. What kind of bike is it, and what year?

But, it is most likely CW to loosen. If I had no idea which way to go with it, I would try that first.

jim

Being that that is the drive side, it will most likely loosen over the top, counter clock wise. The other side will loosen clock wise, most likely. In most cases, pedals and bb's tighten over the top towards the front of the bike.

Depends if it is English or Italian.

Does 'English' equate to SAE in this case?

this unit come off clockwise.no , english is not equate to SAE in this case.

I didn't know that. I've never dealt with anything Italian.

Carry on. Back on subject.

Read the stamped info. If it says 1.37 x 24, it's English and unscrews CW. If it say 36 x 24 it's Italian and unscrews CCW.

For the more knowledgeable here- what if it's French?

Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom

Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy
That's only for pedals.

For English bottom brackets (1.37x24tpi), the right (drive side) cup is left-hand threaded and unthreads CLOCKWISE.

Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy


I'm still trying to figure this language out.

If your bike is not Italian, that cup unscrews clockwise. And you're most likely going to need to honk on it. Try the Sheldon (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html) tool and a big breaker bar or pipe for more leverage.

Or, if it is French (sometimes), or even Spanish.

j

Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy

That's what I thought. My bike is that way and all before it.

Usually: left side left side threads... right side right side threads, right side lefty lucy

Gibberish. Sorry. :(

Italian BBs are threaded lefty loosey on the fixed cup but the threads themselves are a little different too - what do the markings say on there?

36 mm x 24 TPI = Italian
1.37 in x 24 TPI = English

The marking indeed says 36x24. The BB is made by Shimano but the frame is Italian (old steel Miche frame).

The reason why I asked is because I nearly turned cherry red trying to unscrew this and I was still not able to! It seems to be very, VERY tight!

Edit: I almost shat myself trying to unscrew it! It won't come off!

The marking indeed says 36x24. The BB is made by Shimano but the frame is Italian (old steel Miche frame).

The reason why I asked is because I nearly turned cherry red trying to unscrew this and I was still not able to! It seems to be very, VERY tight!

Edit: I almost shat myself trying to unscrew it! It won't come off!
If you are sure you are turning it in the correct direction then put the wrench on it and tap the outmost end of it swiftly with a rubber mallot.

And when that fails, get thee to the Sheldon tool that (almost) never fails.

jim

If you are sure you are turning it in the correct direction then put the wrench on it and tap the outmost end of it swiftly with a rubber mallot.

Rubber? Really? I've had luck loosening corroded fasteners on cars using the (steel) hammer and wrench approach. I don't see how a rubber mallet would transfer enough impact energy to do any good.

For loosening any stuck fastener, first make sure you have plenty of leverage. If you are using a 12" long tool, either find a longer tool or find an extension for it. For a stuck bottom bracket, I'd go for at least 24" if not more. Second, make sure you can hold the tool stable while you really crank on it. This may mean having a (brave) helper hold it in place or finding a way to securely clamp the tool in place if it won't stay there by itself.

Using a little penetrating oil like PB Blaster wouldn't hurt either.

Rubber? Really? I've had luck loosening corroded fasteners on cars using the (steel) hammer and wrench approach. I don't see how a rubber mallet would transfer enough impact energy to do any good.

For loosening any stuck fastener, first make sure you have plenty of leverage. If you are using a 12" long tool, either find a longer tool or find an extension for it. For a stuck bottom bracket, I'd go for at least 24" if not more. Second, make sure you can hold the tool stable while you really crank on it. This may mean having a (brave) helper hold it in place or finding a way to securely clamp the tool in place if it won't stay there by itself.

Using a little penetrating oil like PB Blaster wouldn't hurt either.
I use the rubber mallot so I don't ding up a good tool.
Have removed several of the old type BBs using this method and it DOES work for me.
If it were really stuck badly I guess I might get a bigger hammer but haven't needed the 16# Sledge on a bike yet.;)

I didn't have neither a hammer nor a mallet so I used rubber part of a big adjustable wrench to hammer on the Park BB tool. It came open after a couple of whacks.

I didn't have neither a hammer nor a mallet so I used rubber part of a big adjustable wrench to hammer on the Park BB tool. It came open after a couple of whacks.
TA-DA!:thumb:

I use the rubber mallot so I don't ding up a good tool.
Have removed several of the old type BBs using this method and it DOES work for me.
If it were really stuck badly I guess I might get a bigger hammer but haven't needed the 16# Sledge on a bike yet.;)

I use a plastic dead blow hammer.

For the more knowledgeable here- what if it's French?

Make a scary face at it and it'll just surrender...

And when that fails, get thee to the Sheldon tool that (almost) never fails.

jim

http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Scroll down to section "Fixed Cup Tools ". Read carefully. Good luck.

I use a plastic dead blow hammer.I recently added one of those to my bench. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet.

http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Scroll down to section "Fixed Cup Tools ". Read carefully. Good luck.Note that the "big bolt tool" needs to be used with the nut on the outside. You would tighten the bolt from inside the BB-shell and need to apply torque from INSIDE the B-shell to spin off a French of Italian-threaded fixed-cup.

I find a star-lockwasher against the fixed-cup makes this tool work A LOT better. Just make sure it's small enough in diameter so it doesn't contact the bearing-surface on the inside.

Thanks for all advice. Since I am knew to bike mechanics, all that work I did was fruitless because the new frame on which I was going to put the aforementioned BB has totally different threading - 1.37 x 24. Sigh.

But good thing is that I do have a BB for new frame. All I need are crankarms that can be put onto Octolink V1 BB-5500 and I should be able to ride.