Bicycle Mechanics - Patching a tire

How long do I need to wait after patching a tire before applying full pressure (90-100psi).

Also, is it good enough to apply that 'glue' only on the tire or should I apply it also on the patch?

Thanks,

Kam

If the patch was packed on a piece of foil, then just the tire.
If the patch was made yourself from a piece of old inner tube, then both.

1 second.

I hesitate after such a definitive answer ^. I always glue both. Let the glue mostly dry (it gets opaque) then press the patch and tube together. I usually wait a while, like hours or overnight with a weight of some type on it, before I remount the tire, but if I were on the road, I would take my chances and pump it up right away. I figure the tube is forced against the tire (holding it in place) anyway.

In my view -- no time at all. I've always inflated a tire as soon as I refit it. The pressure just presses the patch harder against the tire.

Assuming you're using a patch kit, what's wrong with following the directions?

1. Terminology matters. Patch the inner tube.
2. After cleaning the area around the hole and scuffing it with a piece of sandpaper or the like, spread the glue over the area to be patched.
3. My directions say to wait 5 minutes for the glue to set. That's what I do and my patches don't leak.
4. Peel off the foil and apply the patch to the inner tube. Press it firmly into place.
5. If you're on the road you can immediately reinstall the inner tube into the tire and inflate to normal operating pressure.

Assuming you're using a patch kit, what's wrong with following the directions?

1. Terminology matters. Patch the inner tube.
2. After cleaning the area around the hole and scuffing it with a piece of sandpaper or the like, spread the glue over the area to be patched.
3. My directions say to wait 5 minutes for the glue to set. That's what I do and my patches don't leak.
4. Peel off the foil and apply the patch to the inner tube. Press it firmly into place.
5. If you're on the road you can immediately reinstall the inner tube into the tire and inflate to normal operating pressure.

One comment and two question:

(comment) Regarding #4, I saw several recomendations not to peel that thin clear plastic that covers the outer side of the patch.

Question 1: what sand paper should I use? The one that comes with my patch kit seems very rough.

Question 2: my tubes (Schwalbe) has some raised line marks on them. When I sand the tube around the hole, do I need to completly flaten and remove the raised lines?

Thanks,

Kam

One comment and two question:

(comment) Regarding #4, I saw several recomendations not to peel that thin clear plastic that covers the outer side of the patch.

Question 1: what sand paper should I use? The one that comes with my patch kit seems very rough.

Question 2: my tubes (Schwalbe) has some raised line marks on them. When I sand the tube around the hole, do I need to completly flaten and remove the raised lines?

Thanks,

Kam

You can leave the clear plastic on, won't hurt. I have carefully peeled them off with no problem, though they sometimes tend to pull the patch up with them, so heck, just leave it on. The clear plastic actually helps when you press/burnish the patch down onto the tube.

The included sandpaper works just fine. Some patch kits come with a little metal scuffer kinda like a cheese grater, now these seem a bit too rough to me, so I replace in the kit with sandpaper.

The mold lines and such on the tube are no problem, the rubber all melts together anyway.

Did you put the patch on the tyre or on the tube?

Did you put the patch on the tyre or on the tube?

Oops, by 'tire' I meant 'tube'.

Kam

Huh? If your using regular old glue on patches then YOU DO NOT HAVE TO PUT GLUE ON THE PATCH! You simply put a thin layer of glue on the tube AFTER you roughed it lightly with a piece of fine emery paper (make sure you roughen an area slightly larger then the patch and apply the glue to the slightly larger area), then optionally you can wipe with an alcohol pad before putting the glue on, wait about 30 to 60 seconds for the glue to haze up (you can blow on it to speed up the action just don't spit on it), then press the patch on hard. The tube is good to go right then; once the tube is inside the tire inflation pressure of the tube against the tire will prevent the patch from blowing off. The clear plastic you can leave on or take off it won't matter one way or the other, I've always removed it.

Now some people like a little more assurance, let me explain. Some after putting on that thin layer of glue and have waited for it to haze, put a SECOND thin layer on and wait for that to haze over before putting the patch on. I've never done that when I use to use glue patches.

I like glueless patches because they hold forever and I don't have to worry about the glueing step, thus it's faster; and as an added bonus, no worrying about finding a dried out glue tube. Park is probably the best glueless and Rema is the best glue patch.

By the way let me repeat, use a piece of FINE emery paper, not a rough one like what they provide the kit unless you use thick tubes. The real light weight 60grm type of tubes can be damaged with a rougher sand paper. And always remember to only light sand it, it's not a piece of wood! Your just going to roughen it very slightly.

I believe they call it "Contact cement" for a reason.
It is glued on contact (after appropriate drying before applying), therefore fill immediately (or sooner).

It's not contact-cement, but vulcanizing fluid.

It's not contact-cement, but vulcanizing fluid.

This is correct. However over the years the younger generation has come into the world of cycling and have no clue that prior to about the mid 60's we (including me) repaired bicycle tires (even I can't remember exactly how we use to do this) by using vulcanization fluid which we brushed on the tube then lit the thing on fire! It would burn fast and put itself out and seal or literally melt and bond the patch on so well it would never come off.

But since then glue appeared that chemically bonds the patch to the tube there is no need for fire anymore which is good because children shouldn't be playing with fire, fire could melt todays ultrathin tubes, you could accidently start a forest fire.

But more exactly cold vulcanizing fluid contains chemicals (the "accelerators" below) that do produce cross-links between the rubber molecules, just as hot vulcanizing (heat plus sulphur) changes the chemical structure of rubber. The wait-until-tacky prescription for cold vulcanizing fluid has a
surprisingly simple explanation: "Vulcanizing fluid has two primary functions. First, it contains chemical accelerators which vulcanize the repair to the tire. Second, when dry, it leaves the prepared surface tacky, which helps hold the repair in place until vulcanization occurs.

And believe it or not guys, especially all those doom sayers about glueless patches, but glueless patches do exactly the same thing! Once a glueless patch has been on awhile I cannot peel it off. For those that have had poor success with glueless patches, all I can say is your either using a cheap brand of patches or didn't put it on correctly because I've never had one fail or stay on just long enough to get home. I had a tube once that was 5 years old with 13 glueless patches placed on during those 5 years-none failed. I still have a mtb tube with a glueless patch on it that is now 6 years old-the glueless patch has been on 6 years and still holds air.

It's not contact-cement, but vulcanizing fluid.

Tomato, Tamato (ie. /təˈmɑːtoʊ/ and /təˈmeɪtoʊ/)

From a how to guide (note the fire quote).

4. Let the glue dry fully. Really! This kind of glue, also called contact cement, must dry completely before applying the patch. Many people are confused about this and do strange things including setting the glue on fire!

4. Let the glue dry fully.

This is the number one reason that people have problems with patches failing. They try to rush the job! Even a thin layer of glue on the tube will take more than a few seconds to dry. If you attempt to place the patch on wet glue, the patch will not stick properly. Let the tube and glue sit until there is no shininess to the surface at all. If the glue is slightly uneven...globs happen:rolleyes:...keep waiting.

As for the plastic cover, leave it or remove it. It doesn't really matter. If you've waited long enough, the patch won't come off.

You can ride the patched tube immediately. The pressure on the patch might even help the bonding process.

Sometimes the area of the tube that's beyond the patch that's been softened by the vulcanizing fluid will stick to the tyre. There's some rubbing between the tube and tyre, so some talc will help prevent the repair from sticking to the inside of the tyre. The rubbing will move the sticking part differently than non-sticking and can loosen a patch before it's fully vulcanized to the tube.

Personally I've had good luck with having some patience and clamping the patch & tube between two blocks of wood in a vise overnight.


To those who are mechanically inclined and have some precision in their thinking and work, you can compare a "glue" versus "vulcanizing" fluid as the difference between brazing and welding. Or do a test, lay down a thin stripe of "glue", "contact cement" or "rubber cement" on one section of tube. And near it, lay down a stripe of "vulcanizing fluid". Walk away for 5-10 minutes and come back and rub on the two spots. The area with "glue", "contact cement" or "rubber cement" will rub off in little rubber balls (you've all done this with rubber-cement on paper before). However, the spot with true "vulcanizing fluid" will have nothing come off.

Anyone ever build model planes, cars, ships when you were kids? Remember the difference between the thick gooey glue versus the thinner solvent "glues"?

To those who are mechanically inclined and have some precision in their thinking and work, you can compare a "glue" versus "vulcanizing" fluid as the difference between brazing and welding. Or do a test, lay down a thin stripe of "glue", "contact cement" or "rubber cement" on one section of tube. And near it, lay down a stripe of "vulcanizing fluid". Walk away for 5-10 minutes and come back and rub on the two spots. The area with "glue", "contact cement" or "rubber cement" will rub off in little rubber balls (you've all done this with rubber-cement on paper before). However, the spot with true "vulcanizing fluid" will have nothing come off.

I guess NORCO or BELL patching kits will never work then, since according to their labels they both contain "Rubber Cement".

Tomato, Tamato (ie. /təˈmɑːtoʊ/ and /təˈmeɪtoʊ/)

From a how to guide (note the fire quote).

4. Let the glue dry fully. Really! This kind of glue, also called contact cement, must dry completely before applying the patch. Many people are confused about this and do strange things including setting the glue on fire!

I haven't seen the fire dancers in a long long time, when was the last time you saw this ritual performed?

As far as glue is concern DANNYOXYZ is CORRECT! It's vulcanizing glue NOT contact cement... probably more accurately it's a little of both, the contact cement makes the patch stick initially then the other chemicals after a cure time (which can occur while the tube is in the tire) allow the chemical binding to take place. Cement word is used because nobody would understand the word cement vulcanization. The vulcanization takes place chemically and will make it virtually impossible to remove the patch without taking parts of the tube with it...contact cement will not do this, you can remove a patch that's been put on by just contact cement.

http://www.bouncing-balls.com/chemistry_tech_conservation/vulcanization.htm

And there's no need for vice to be used on a tube and patch to make the dang thing stay on!! That remark is just pure lunacy written by a :geek:

I haven't seen the fire dancers in a long long time, when was the last time you saw this ritual performed?

As far as glue is concern DANNYOXYZ is CORRECT! It's vulcanizing glue NOT contact cement... probably more accurately it's a little of both, the contact cement makes the patch stick initially then the other chemicals after a cure time (which can occur while the tube is in the tire) allow the chemical binding to take place. Cement word is used because nobody would understand the word cement vulcanization. The vulcanization takes place chemically and will make it virtually impossible to remove the patch without taking parts of the tube with it...contact cement will not do this, you can remove a patch that's been put on by just contact cement.

http://www.bouncing-balls.com/chemistry_tech_conservation/vulcanization.htm

And there's no need for vice to be used on a tube and patch to make the dang thing stay on!! That remark is just pure lunacy written by a :geek:

Bingo!
I have 4 different patching kits by different manufacturers and the ALL contain RUBBER CEMENT.

Rubber cement, contact cement is a colloquialism used for common understanding (when referring to tire repair).

When is the last time you saw someone actually "drop a hammer" when they dial it up to 400 watts.
Not that loosing 2-4lbs wouldn't help you in a sprint!
Nobody gets their panties in a knot when someone says that.

I guess NORCO or BELL patching kits will never work then, since according to their labels they both contain "Rubber Cement".Well, they may not work as well as Rema or Camel patch kits with true vulcanizing fluid.

Or it could be the marketing folks at Norco & Bell don't understand the bike biz, they are after all, not manufacturers; they just put their labels on products made some numerous other subs. And there's also a component of customer-expectations and expertise as well. The majority of people do not know the differences between "rubber cement" and "vulcanizing fluid". And the marketers know that and want the customers to have "warm fuzzies" when picking up a product, so they'll use terms a layman would understand. Get it?

Sometimes the area of the tube that's beyond the patch that's been softened by the vulcanizing fluid will stick to the tyre. There's some rubbing between the tube and tyre, so some talc will help prevent the repair from sticking to the inside of the tyre. The rubbing will move the sticking part differently than non-sticking and can loosen a patch before it's fully vulcanized to the tube.


Which makes a good case for simply not using the patched tube right away. Use a previously patched tube, and set the newly patched tube aside for another day. (The softened area will eventually harden or set, right?)

When is the last time you saw someone actually "drop a hammer" when they dial it up to 400 watts.
Not that loosing 2-4lbs wouldn't help you in a sprint!
Nobody gets their panties in a knot when someone says that.Because those phrases are commonly understood with their intended meaning.

However "rubber cement" is a misnomer and noobies will often confuse this:

http://www.plazaart.com/images/636/photo_E904.jpg

as this:

http://www.overland-solutions.com/shoppingcart/products/mt_repair/090-2000_s.jpg

And then we get countless posts on why their patching job didn't hold. And if you don't understand what the difference is, well, you're probably one of them.

Because those phrases are commonly understood with their intended meaning.

However "rubber cement" is a misnomer and noobies will often confuse this:

http://www.plazaart.com/images/636/photo_E904.jpg

as this:

http://www.overland-solutions.com/shoppingcart/products/mt_repair/090-2000_s.jpg

And then we get countless posts on why their patching job didn't hold. And if you don't understand what the difference is, well, you're probably one of them.

I guess your reading comprehension is very low.
Rubber cement, contact cement is a colloquialism used for common understanding (when referring to tire repair).
I have 4 different patching kits by different manufacturers and the ALL contain RUBBER CEMENT (This is what it says on their labeling information).
Now you don't want me to have to scan these 4 labels and post them do you??

Not mine, but I think you can extrapolate (hopefully) the letters on the tube "Ru Ce"
http://pc-link.biz/pc/bkrp105.jpg

But do YOU know what's actually in those tubes labeled "Rubber Cement"???

But do YOU know what's actually in those tubes labeled "Rubber Cement"???

Cement for rubber?

To add to the pizzin' contest, the sand paper is not necessary, if the surfaceof the tube is smooth,(it usually is)....all you need is a good solvent, (lacquer thinner or acetone) to clean off the stuff they put on the outside of the tube(think its a mold release ) , then , put the glue in the patch kit on it let it dry and apply the patch.

Bud

But do YOU know what's actually in those tubes labeled "Rubber Cement"???

Final word (literally)
colloquialism:
a word, phrase, or expression characteristic of ordinary or familiar conversation rather than formal speech or writing, as “She’s out” (Rubber Cement) for “She is not at home.” (Vulcanizing fluid).

I see what the problem is, it's a furriner issue:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/41/167378472_2f54b021c8.jpghttp://farm1.static.flickr.com/3/2373133_a2d103a312.jpg
http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/11_04/chinglish3DM3011_468x900.jpg
http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/11_04/chinglish7DM3011_468x470.jpg

My bet is you've got vulcanizing fluid inside those tubes. A little too technical to translate. The main issue I have is that "rubber cement" IS NOT colloquialism, but refers to a specific product which is unsuitable for tube patching. Case in point (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=534628).

How would you like it if you order "pasta al dente" at Wolfgang Puck's place and they bring you Chef Boyardee or Campbell's Spaghetti'O in a can?

Similar thing happens here a lot with people not understanding that 26x1.50" tyres fit on a completely different size rim than 26x1-3/8" tyres.

Which makes a good case for simply not using the patched tube right away. Use a previously patched tube, and set the newly patched tube aside for another day. (The softened area will eventually harden or set, right?)

Gee, I wondered how all the cyclists I've ever known and seen or haven't seen or knew all over the world, including me, fixing a flat on the side of the road ever made it home without replacing the tube?

New rules guys, don't bother taking a patch kit on rides because the darn things need a vice grip setting up pressure on the patch and tube for at least 24 hours!

Are there any people on this forum who actually ride bikes/ or are most of you posers?

Final word (literally)
colloquialism:
a word, phrase, or expression characteristic of ordinary or familiar conversation rather than formal speech or writing, as “She’s out” (Rubber Cement) for “She is not at home.” (Vulcanizing fluid).

So what's wrong with just using the right word?

One of my long time personal favorites is saying "alloy" when one means "aluminum".
Recently a poster was questionning which work stand he should buy. One work stand had an "alloy" frame (meaning aluminum), the other had a "metal" frame (meaning steel).

A few observations...

I've never had a patch fail, except one time I tried to patch a blowout on the road when no other option was available - too big a hole. I sand an area twice as big as I thing the patch is, remove sanding waste with the edge of my sanding paper, apply the glue/cement/vulc fluid, let it skim over and then press on the patch. If the patch has a thin plastic cover I usually remove it - sometimes then sometimes later, but always split the plastic by bending the patch BEFORE applying it to the tube. That way I can pull off the plastic from the center outward, which prevents lifting the patch edge. I put on a bit of talc (on the road I just dust the area with....dust) to prevent sticking of the area surrounding the patch.

Absolutely you can inflate and use immediately, as long as you remount in the tire carefully. As for pressure vs. a patch, it's a non-issue, as the tube is totally enclosed by the tire. The strain on a patch from pressure is minimal.

p.s. Yes "alloy" sounds impressive but steel is an alloy, too.

Gee, I wondered how all the cyclists I've ever known and seen or haven't seen or knew all over the world, including me, fixing a flat on the side of the road ever made it home without replacing the tube?

New rules guys, don't bother taking a patch kit on rides because the darn things need a vice grip setting up pressure on the patch and tube for at least 24 hours!

Are there any people on this forum who actually ride bikes/ or are most of you posers?

Hey, nice job completely missing the point. I mean, totally. Like, whoosh and all that.

It was suggested that fresh cement outside the edges of the patch might possibly bond to the inside of the tire. Which I've never seen, but it sounds reasonable enough. So if you happen to have another tube lying around, I thought maybe it would be better to use that one instead. I patch my tubes at home, where I have a few in rotation. The newest patch goes to the back of the line.

Did you notice the words "might" and "maybe"? We're all trying to learn here. Except, apparently for you.

Thanks for staying clear of the other patching thread going on right now, where we had to convince someone that vulcanizing fluid was for real and not just a fancy made-up name for ordinary glue. You probably would have taken the poor fella's bike away from him.

Hey, nice job completely missing the point. I mean, totally. Like, whoosh and all that.

It was suggested that fresh cement outside the edges of the patch might possibly bond to the inside of the tire. Which I've never seen, but it sounds reasonable enough. So if you happen to have another tube lying around, I thought maybe it would be better to use that one instead. I patch my tubes at home, where I have a few in rotation. The newest patch goes to the back of the line.

Did you notice the words "might" and "maybe"? We're all trying to learn here. Except, apparently for you.

Thanks for staying clear of the other patching thread going on right now, where we had to convince someone that vulcanizing fluid was for real and not just a fancy made-up name for ordinary glue. You probably would have taken the poor fella's bike away from him.

Damm right I would have taken the fellas bike away and yours too!!! I missed the point? Here you admit that you don't patch on the road but rather patch at home WAIT to use it at some other time!

And lets not forget this gem you wrote: "Which makes a good case for simply not using the patched tube right away. Use a previously patched tube, and set the newly patched tube aside for another day. (The softened area will eventually harden or set, right?)"

I guess your another walker when you run out of tubes huh? Yet I missed the point...duh ok I guess I'm too stupid to get the point...what a bunch of posers, change the story to make yourselves look like you all know what your doing.

I guess you also failed reading in school because you obviously failed to read my posts on vulcanizing vs rubber cement, where I also agreed with DannoXYZ and the arguements that pursued afterwords!

Damm right I would have taken the fellas bike away and yours too!!! I missed the point? Here you admit that you don't patch on the road but rather patch at home WAIT to use it at some other time!

And lets not forget this gem you wrote: "Which makes a good case for simply not using the patched tube right away. Use a previously patched tube, and set the newly patched tube aside for another day. (The softened area will eventually harden or set, right?)"

I guess your another walker when you run out of tubes huh? Yet I missed the point...duh ok I guess I'm too stupid to get the point...what a bunch of posers, change the story to make yourselves look like you all know what your doing.

I guess you also failed reading in school because you obviously failed to read my posts on vulcanizing vs rubber cement, where I also agreed with DannoXYZ and the arguements that pursued afterwords!

Did you sit on a stick or just what is your problem?

Hell no I don't patch tubes on the road. I carry a stick-on patch kit but hope to never use it. I take my punctured tubes home and fix them there. Are you getting that message?

You keep harping on my idea about not using a freshly patched tube IF another tube is available. The thinking - once again for your benefit, and I'll type v e r y s l o w l y this time - is that extra cement on the newly patched tube might bond to the inside of the tire.

Now you can agree with this or disagree with it. And if you disagree you may explain why. The personal crap is already very old and tired. You're wrecking this thread and I request that you stop.

Did you sit on a stick or just what is your problem?

Hell no I don't patch tubes on the road. I carry a stick-on patch kit but hope to never use it. I take my punctured tubes home and fix them there. Are you getting that message?

You keep harping on my idea about not using a freshly patched tube IF another tube is available. The thinking - once again for your benefit, and I'll type v e r y s l o w l y this time - is that extra cement on the newly patched tube might bond to the inside of the tire.

Now you can agree with this or disagree with it. And if you disagree you may explain why. The personal crap is already very old and tired. You're wrecking this thread and I request that you stop.

First off you didn't type very slowy, I watched you; second off, you don't have a sense of humor do you? I'm going to take your bike and the other fellas? Common man, those were even your words you mean't in humor to me and then I just rephrased to make it funny back at you. And no I can't get off the stick otherwise my 79 Z28 would stay in first gear all the time and that ruins it's already bad fuel economy! But I like poor gas mileage cars because I'm a cheerleader for global warming and wish to contribute to the cause!! Something by the way that will happen whether we humans were here or not; but that's another debate for another time.

And of course I disagree with you, what would be the purpose of living if folk can't disagree with other folk when they feel it's right to disagree?

Why would the glue of a newly patched tube adhere to the tire if you waited for it to dry even BEFORE you put the patch on? Secondly, the inside of the tire is rough and without properly preparing the tire to accept a patch the glue would not be able to adhere very well to the tire assuming the glue was still tacky when placed inside the tire. I've only had one tube ever "adhere" to a tire and that was on the MTB, and the tube just simply peeled off with out any damage to the tube, simply because I didn't wait long enough for a proper cure and it then peeled off easily. If your having that kind of problem then your using way too much glue.

I'm thinking about changing my forum handle to: The Threadwrecker...what do you think? :twitchy:

Like I said, I've never seen it happen. Or even heard of it happening. It just seemed reasonable that it might, especially after the tube is pressurized.

I guess I will go back to checking for monsters in the crawl space now.

The thinking...is that extra cement on the newly patched tube might bond to the inside of the tire.
FWIW...and I don't want to incite argument here...this is the reason I've read suggestions to leave the plastic film on the back of the patch intact.

I have been driving for 30-years. I have never, ever gotten a flat tyre. I have however, heard of other people getting them. So, I'll still carry a spare in the boot...

Anybody use "SCABS"?

Anybody use "SCABS"?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=8996567

FWIW...and I don't want to incite argument here...this is the reason I've read suggestions to leave the plastic film on the back of the patch intact.

There's nothing wrong with inciting an argument! There's also nothing wrong with leaving the plastic film on the patch; though I've never done it, that I can remember anyways, either way I've never had a patch or a tube stick to the tire.

There's nothing wrong with inciting an argument! There's also nothing wrong with leaving the plastic film on the patch; though I've never done it, that I can remember anyways, either way I've never had a patch or a tube stick to the tire.
Just curious....is there a functional reason or advantage to removing the plastic film? Since the thread's not dead (yet), thought I'd ask. Thanks

Remove the plastic backing?

Yes!
http://bicycletutor.com/fix-flat-tire

No!
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=149
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/flattire.html

No opinion
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html

Just curious....is there a functional reason or advantage to removing the plastic film? Since the thread's not dead (yet), thought I'd ask. Thanks

Read LarryMelman's threads, but none of the sites mention why to leave or remove. There is no reason to remove or not. When I use to use the glue on patches I removed the plastic film because that was the way I was taught to do it years and years and years ago, but can't remember why. Some feel that if you peel the plastic off it may weaken the patch by pulling on it, but I never had that problem. It's faster just to leave it on.

http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-nuts.html

"don't try to ride a freshly patched tube, carry a spare tube and always use the spare after patching the punctured tube. Of course this is a whole subject in itself that is also treated in the FAQ." (Sec. 8b.1 of http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part2/)

I guess I'll drop this review off here...

There is a pretty new product out from Park Tool. Before you yawn - this one is a true innovation that will speed you on your way after you have a flat due to a puncture in the tube.

It is the Park Tool GP-2 Patch Kit:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=82&item=GP-2

Just: Find the puncture. Clean surface area off. Scrape with square of sandpaper included. Peel backing off patch (6 in the box). Press down evenly on the tube over puncture. Re-mount tire/tube. Inflate. Ride away.

That's it. And it really is as strong - or stronger - as a regular glue-on patch.

For once: Park has engineered - along with 3M - a real winner. Get one, they are cheap and take up less space that a pack of matches.

Wait what a minute . . . my Rema kit is Vulcanizing fluid right? I carry a tube and the kit, but the Tire/Tube Fairies have been smiling on me for the last 15 years or so.

Also, isn't a patch really to get you home? I would replace an innertube if I had to patch it (at the soonest available time), but I guess that isn't the consensus?

A good patch is as strong as the original tube - if not stronger in some ways. I've ridden on patched tubes until they died of natural-causes. There really is no need to get home, throw it out, and buy another tube. Unless the injury was truly spectacular.

Just always check your tire (I know you know this, John) for any embedded object that may have caused the flat in the first place.

A good patch is as strong as the original tube - if not stronger in some ways. I've ridden on patched tubes until they died of natural-causes. There really is no need to get home, throw it out, and buy another tube. Unless the injury was truly spectacular.

Just always check your tire (I know you know this, John) for any embedded object that may have caused the flat in the first place.

I'd like to test this out . . . I was hoping for a flat on my 80+ mile Sunday ride, but no luck. I've got all this flat gear, and no way to test it.

What's does a man have to do to get a flat?

Once I'm done with work today, I'm going to ride around irresponsibly until I get one.