Cyclocross - 1x9 gearing

what do you use?

I am converting from a 36/46 front to a 39tooth front. I have a 13-26 on the back and used the 36/26 on occasion.

What do you guys run?

I'm a fat older guy who cycles more for utility & commuting. Normally cover about 5000 km per year; do a supported tour once or twice a year, plus a few charity rides. I don't race, the bike I ride the most is closest in style to cyclocross. It is set up as a 1x9 with 36 t chain ring and 11-34 cassette.
ps. I've used a 34, 36, 40 and 44 chain ring. Before going with the 36/11-34, I kept an eye on what gear combinations I actually used. Living in a hilly area, once in a while I could use a lower gear. The 36/11 top end gives me about 38 kph with a 90 cadence- which is fast enough for me. My 18 yo son's CrossCheck is set up with 44/11-34- in 30 or so years his knees will catch up with him, as mine did. The 44/11-34 range slightly exceeds that of a stock CrossCheck, just with fewer steps.
If we lived in a flatter area, [IMHO] perhaps 39 or 40 with a 11-32 or 12-34 would be about right.

42 x 12-27

I spun out once on a course that had a long pavement descent, but that was an oddity. 39/13 will be plenty.

If you have the scratch, get this:
http://paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html

I don't race, so my comments are off-topic.

I use a 44 X 12-25 on my 1X10. I live in Chicago, so no real hills and I ride on-road 98% of the time.

I ride in the 15 to 21 mph range 95% of the time and average about 17.5 mph. This gearing is perfect for my riding. I can sprint to 25 mph and will hit 30 mph daily on the mini hills here. My fastest speed so far is 38 mph.

I might have to go back to a compact double with a 50t & 38t for group-ride travel, but for solo riding, the 44 X 12-25 is great.

the Chainkeeper in Flargle's post is an important item. I use two Salsa Crossing guards to keep my chain in place, but the Chainkeeper would make cleaning the chainrings much easier. You will need something to keep the chain on the front chainring.

Michael

Do those who race with a 1x9 use a chain retention ring, like the Salsa Crossing Guard? If not, do you have any problems with chain retention?

I don't race, but I do ride on a number of back roads and some logging trails;
have a Salsa RingDinger and Thirdeye chainwatcher. Cannot recall the last time I dropped
a chain- even when everything was mud/slush coated.

I ordered one of these, and now I need the thirdeye thing, I think.
http://www.bbgbashguard.com/Cyclocross.html

Unfortunately I have 9speed campy for the rear, so a mtn cassette might be out. Sounds like for races, though 39-13/26 will not limit me much

I ordered one of these, and now I need the thirdeye thing, I think.
http://www.bbgbashguard.com/Cyclocross.html

Unfortunately I have 9speed campy for the rear, so a mtn cassette might be out. Sounds like for races, though 39-13/26 will not limit me much

Not running a 1x9, but a 1x8. 39 up front and an 11-32 cassette. On most courses last year my top speed was ~20mph. If I want to spin, I'm completely capable of running the 39-11 to 35mph. I can't see having to do that more than once or maybe twice a season. I can see having to hit the tractor gear many times, though. Depending on what the courses are like that you race on, I'd see what I could do to get more teeth on the back. I think you can run a Shimano rear derailler with a Travel Agent type of thing and make it work with Campy shifters.

http://paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html

Is this new? A very elegant solution much like many of Paul's parts.

Not running a 1x9, but a 1x8. 39 up front and an 11-32 cassette. On most courses last year my top speed was ~20mph. If I want to spin, I'm completely capable of running the 39-11 to 35mph. I can't see having to do that more than once or maybe twice a season. I can see having to hit the tractor gear many times, though. Depending on what the courses are like that you race on, I'd see what I could do to get more teeth on the back. I think you can run a Shimano rear derailler with a Travel Agent type of thing and make it work with Campy shifters.

I've definitely used the 36/26 in a race last year. Anything steeper and I probably can't ride it anyway, but given how much I've been on a mountain bike recently, maybe the gearing will be the difference. I might look into a shiftmate, or converting to 9speed shimano could be easy-ish

Don't race my 1X9 bike, but I am running a 42X12/25. Works great for commuting.

Is this new? A very elegant solution much like many of Paul's parts.Brand new. I've seen ghetto versions of the same idea, it ought to work quite well.

if converting from a double chainring to a single (for a 9 speed 12-25), do you have to change the bottom bracket also?

if converting from a double chainring to a single (for a 9 speed 12-25), do you have to change the bottom bracket also?

I'm not going to, but attention to chainline might not be a bad thing

if converting from a double chainring to a single (for a 9 speed 12-25), do you have to change the bottom bracket also?Probably not unless the single ring is unusually large. Even if you were swapping the inner 39 for a 44, probably won't have clearance issues.

I've used a 42 with both 12-25 and 12-27 clusters. I'm not a strong rider, but I think I could spin out a 39/12 combo on level terrain.

That Paul's Chainkeeper is beautiful. I've purchased some of their stuff... Very well made.

I've used a 42 with both 12-25 and 12-27 clusters. I'm not a strong rider, but I think I could spin out a 39/12 combo on level terrain.

That Paul's Chainkeeper is beautiful. I've purchased some of their stuff... Very well made.

I can certainly spin out my 39-12 on my road bike. On a cyclocross course, however 120rpm on 700 tires in the 39-25 is ~32mph. I have a hard time imagining the course where I'm both going that fast AND wanting to pedal at the same time

I can certainly spin out my 39-12 on my road bike. On a cyclocross course, however 120rpm on 700 tires in the 39-12 is ~32mph. I have a hard time imagining the course where I'm both going that fast AND wanting to pedal at the same time

You're exactly right. It just doesn't happen too often. In fact, I think with smooth tires and an 11 tooth rear cog I could stay in the pack of most crits, much less a cyclocross race. Having said that, I do make it a point to do cadence work.

Unfortunately I have 9speed campy for the rear, so a mtn cassette might be out. Sounds like for races, though 39-13/26 will not limit me much


try building a cassette from Miche cogs. same splines as Campy, and available in singles, so you can mix and match to your heart's content.

try building a cassette from Miche cogs. same splines as Campy, and available in singles, so you can mix and match to your heart's content.

Great idea!

I was using 12-25 with a 42t chainring last season. I could have easily gone with a smaller chainring. Not so much because I needed lower gears, but because even on road sprints I was rarely using the 12.

Next season I think I might try a 38t chainring with a corn cob tight range cassette, like 11-23. I know some people say you don't need close ratios for cross, but towards the end of the race I like being able to find a really comfortable gear to spin, when I'm not sprinting. For hillier or muddier races I might have an 11-28 on hand.

If you have the scratch, get this:
http://paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html

Flargle-

Do you have this bit on a bike? I'm intrigued. I have raced two seasons with no issues using the n-gear jumpstop so I am hesitant to change, but this looks sweet.

Don't own it yet.

I use 42 with an 11x32 cassette. I like the wider range for non race situations. I use a bash guard and a jump stop.

jump stop?

Jump Stop (http://www.gvtc.com/%7Engear/whatis.html).