Road Cycling - Wheel Swap requires brake realignment and RD adjustment?

I swapped over to my race wheels yesterday, and noticed that I had to adjust the RD a little and move the brakes over in order to have the wheel centered and shifting properly.

Any idea why this is happening?

It's not an issue, but swapping wheels during a race would likely be an issue as the shifting wouldn't be dialed in and the brakes would rub.

The brakes is normal. The wheel is probably dished differently. The cassette is on the outside of the dropouts though, so I would think the cassette should be in the same place regardless of the wheel.

not all hubs space the cassette the same way. it's normal.

though all of my wheels have spacers/shims such that the cassettes on all of them are in the same relative position so I don't have to adjust my RD when swapping wheels.

I'd check to make sure the cassette is properly seated and doesn't have any unnecessary spacers. Otherwise it just might be the vagaries of your particular wheel.

don't need to with my elites and SLs, but do have to when i use my tokens.

It's normal.

Thanks. Normalcy and annoyance win out.

Woop!

I suppose if all my wheels were the same brand, then it would be fine.

most of my race wheels don't require a RD adjustment, but if I put a powertap wheel on, I always have to move everything a bit.

I have to readjust the RD, but not the brakes. unless the rim width is different.

I have one bike at the moment that I use for trails and road and the difference in dish between the two wheelsets I have (mavic, and Alex) is actually driving me crazy enough that I'm about to buy another set of Mavic wheels so I'll have two of the same and won't have to keep adjusting brake pad position (canti brakes) every time I switch from my dirt to road wheelsets.

I haven't noticed any need to adjust the derailleur though. Weird, now that I think about it.

Thanks. Normalcy and annoyance win out.

Woop!

I suppose if all my wheels were the same brand, then it would be fine.

Somewhat. And you can do some things to minimize the annoyance.

Most of my wheels are either Dura Ace 7700 or 7850 hubs with Shimano cassettes. I might have to give my inline cable adjuster a half twist to get the shifting right on. I don't have to adjust set screws.

Some of my rims are narrower so that requires a brake barrel nut adjustment if you want to run the shoes close or to make room for the wider rims. You need to set the cable on the widest rim and then use the barrel whenever you put in the narrower rims.

All my wheels are dished dead on, so I don't have to adjust brakes left or right. You can flip the wheel in the bike to see if your wheels are off or if it is the bike. If the wheel "moves" from side to side, the rim isn't centered over the hub and this can be fixed.

I have one bike at the moment that I use for trails and road and the difference in dish between the two wheelsets I have (mavic, and Alex) is actually driving me crazy enough that I'm about to buy another set of Mavic wheels so I'll have two of the same and won't have to keep adjusting brake pad position (canti brakes) every time I switch from my dirt to road wheelsets.

I haven't noticed any need to adjust the derailleur though. Weird, now that I think about it.

the correct way to fix it, is to have the alex wheels dished properly.

unless you mean the rim width is different between the two.

A good wrench should be able to make both wheels the exact same width and spacing so that they are interchangable without a RD adjustment (or at least very close).

This is all normal.

the correct way to fix it, is to have the alex wheels dished properly.

unless you mean the rim width is different between the two.

Yeah, I should just do that. There is a slight width difference but probably would be fine if they were dished the same. But then I wouldn't have an excuse to spend money on more bike parts, ha!

This is all normal.

Exactly. The RD should be within a turn or less on the barrel adjuster to get happy. Cassettes are 'nominally' in the same spot, but due to tolerances of the assembly they end up a little wonky (technical term) usually. The brake will take a couple turns on the centering screw depending on the dishing of the wheel.