Triathlon - view my bike: turn into Tri bike or buy a tri bike

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should I turn this into a tri bike or buy a real tri bike. my second triathlon coming up end of July. If it's going to make a difference of .5 mph i'd get a tri bike, but how do you know? I want to avg 23 mph for the bike (last one I avg 20.5 on this bike, i figure I can gain 2 mph via aerodynamics and .5 mph via training. it was my first triathlon so I think I've came a long way in training)
Calminian
05-25-09, 06:44 PM
should I turn this into a tri bike or buy a real tri bike. my second triathlon coming up end of July. If it's going to make a difference of .5 mph i'd get a tri bike, but how do you know? I want to avg 23 mph for the bike (last one I avg 20.5 on this bike, i figure I can gain 2 mph via aerodynamics and .5 mph via training. it was my first triathlon so I think I've came a long way in training)
No question. Go tri-specific. You'll definitely go faster, and even if you don't, they look cooler.
The front end on that bike will be really high with aerobars, and the top tube looks like it's on the long side, even for a road bike--the frame looks like it's a size too big to be honest with you--maybe even 2 sizes. That would not be helpful when trying to convert to a tri bike.
smittie61984
05-25-09, 07:10 PM
Found this on a google search.
sirious94
05-25-09, 09:12 PM
if you have the budget go for the tri bike. if you do not well, you can convert it. converting will cost about $100-300 or more depending on what you do to it. buying will cost 1000-10,000 depending on what you buy but you will get higher time savings.
Calminian
05-25-09, 09:17 PM
Found this on a google search.
The Talon is actually 73°
The Talon is actually 73°
Note the Talon is a very old design
Also stating it is 73 degrees is not completely correct... Depends on the size and seatpost configration used.
Description 48cm 52cm 55cm 57cm 60cm
SEAT ANGLE REAR* 74.0 73.0 72.0 72.0 71.0
SEAT ANGLE FORWARD* 77.0 76.0 75.0 74.0 74.0
As to convert or buy new, its up to you.
Tri bikes are more aero, but more importantly you should be able to get a better position on the tri bike (~80% of drag of the rider and bike is rider).
The tri bike usually handles better as it is designed for the forward rider position.Whether you run better getting off a steeper seat tube angle is a personal thing...
Yeah, I would be a little stretched out. To get my elbows vertical i'd need My aero bar pads to be closer to the seat.
Calminian
05-26-09, 05:23 PM
Note the Talon is a very old design
Also stating it is 73 degrees is not completely correct... Depends on the size and seatpost configration used.
Description 48cm 52cm 55cm 57cm 60cm
SEAT ANGLE REAR* 74.0 73.0 72.0 72.0 71.0
SEAT ANGLE FORWARD* 77.0 76.0 75.0 74.0 74.0
I stand corrected. I didn't see that before. Still, seems pretty shallow though. Can you clarify exactly what SA Forward means? Is this simply sliding the seat forward? Or is it a special tube?
I stand corrected. I didn't see that before. Still, seems pretty shallow though. Can you clarify exactly what SA Forward means? Is this simply sliding the seat forward? Or is it a special tube?
just a question of which way you set up the seat post. Usually it just means flipping the seatpost around.
Calminian
05-26-09, 06:22 PM
just a question of which way you set up the seat post. Usually it just means flipping the seatpost around.
So basically the Talon is just a road bike frame with some tri parts (special seat tube, etc.). The OP might as well just add a special seat tube, etc., to his current road bike and save a bundle.
I don't think you need a tri-bike for your second triathlon. And I wouldn't set a goal of xx mph. I think a better way to set a goal is by saying, I was in the top so many % and this time around I want to be in the top whatever %. Course, conditions and even what wave you start in can effect your MPH.
Secondly, I would say the headtube is as much an indicator of the Talon's status as a road bike. They are way to steep to effectively distribute a persons weight when they are riding steep.
My opinion is to just get a set of aerobars on your trek with a really low stack height, an aero helmet, and tight clothes. If you insist, get a set of aero wheels, those will be easier to sell should you not stick with triathlon and if you do like triathlon those aero wheels can go onto your triathlon bike.
thanks for your responses. I think you're right triguy. for my second tri I'll just get some aero bars, helmet, tight clothes and I already got the wheelbuilder wheel cover. I'll shoot for a percentile finish too. I took a video of my position on the bike with my elbows on the handlebars and I can get pretty flat. I always get carried away!
brian669
05-30-09, 12:36 PM
a lot of bikes that are marketed for tt/tri are more or less aero road bikes. the seat angle is the big number to look for. also the headtube and tt slope. but for the seat angle you want 74 or greater, with 76-78 being the general preferred spec. the idea is to A - be more aero and B - preserve muscles you need for the run. throw a set of aero bars on your current bike and go out for 20k and jump off for a run. then do the same on a tt/tri bike like the cervelo. you will see the difference in your legs and how the position is effective.
with that said, i agree with triguy. if you are training for tri's and tri's only, then a tri bike is obviously a necessity. that's my opinion. but if you aren't a dedicated full time triathlete or you don't always train for tri's a set of bars and some adjustments will get you far. you can also buy a frameset and just swap everything over from your old bike, then sell what's left to recoup some of the money.
fwiw normann stadler started on a road bike set up for aero bars, etc. his first ironman was on a look kg3xx. i also have seen a bunch of guys on road colnago's and lightspeed's with aero bars and wheels.
i got a trek madone,basically the same as yours, i put profile design base bar and aero bars with tt levers and dura ace barend shifter on it i didnt move my seat instead i went from a 120mm stem to a 100mm stem thing fits great and alot faster and more comfy then the stock version. i got some good deals on ebay later i will buy a new tri bike and convert mine back. i was able to use the stock cables and housings.
brian669
05-31-09, 12:39 PM
that's exactly what i did as well. i had a madone and threw a vision base bar/tt bar on it. got the whole bar setup from ebay for under 250 bucks including da shifters, vision levers, etc. then i adjusted the seat and actually lengthened the stem. while i agree that measuring performance based on kph/mph isn't the best way to do it, i was averaging like 24-26kph for the whole ride (warmup + 4-6 easy/tt intervals) prior to adding the bars to the madone and after i was in the 30-32kph range. i've recently moved to an argon 18 e112 and picked up a trek 1000 for a hill interval bike. kinda wish i kept the madone.
radshark
06-08-09, 06:13 PM
Doesn't a steeper seat tube angle positively affect your ability to run after biking? I thought I saw a study on that somewhere.
Ah... here it is:
http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~db=all~content=a713776232
And a study of seat tube angle and respiratory efficiency is here:
http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~db=all~content=a713775858
Cheers,
So i flipped my seat around, got a rear wheel cover, 40 degree downward stem, aero bars (i put the aerobars underneath the bar) and I increased my speed from 20.5 on my first tri (road bike setup) to 24 on my third (road bike converted). a few weeks ago i got a tri bike with all the bells and whistles and biked my typical route at 25.9 avg mph (out and back course, 14 mile, 24.5 avg mph was my record with my old bike). My positions wasn't great either. afterwards my legs weren't even tired.
You bought a DA? Damn!
Sick ride, enjoy :)
JeremiahW037
10-27-09, 07:07 AM
The main reason for a tri bikes dimensional differences, namely the seat tube angle being 78 degrees, is so you are not using as much of your hamstrings on the bike portion and can be fresher on the run. You can help achieve this as well as get your self into better aero posture by getting a seatpost with no setback and sliding your seat forward all the way on its rails. This will let you move your seatpost up probably a 1-1.5 inches and will get you that position you wanted.
That being said, Tri bikes are cooler looking, but are terrible for anything but racing and Tri training unless you have a good back and don't mind being hunched over.
You bought a DA? Damn!
Sick ride, enjoy :)
thanks. I'm sure I will. Looking forward to April for the first triathlon of the year.
ok heres what my choice was, spent 500 bucks turning my madone into a tri bike, 4 months later bought a tri bike and sold all the parts off the madone for about 300 bucks then ended up selling the madone 4 months after that. just get the tri bike.
HANZYPANZY
11-05-09, 11:10 AM
Hey, Id defo go Tri specific, all the mentioned reasons stack up, bike too large to get an aero enough position, headtube too long, seatpost angle blah blah. Maybe something like the frame in the pic attached. Available now :)
Cheers
Stephen
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