Bicycle Mechanics - Any hints on shortening and threading a steering tube on a fork?

I have a fork I want to use, but the steering tube is too long.

I have to cut the steering tube and thread it - never done it before.

How do you do it? Where do you get the threading tools?

Is this the kind of thing a feller can do successfully on his own, or just leave it up to an LBS?

Neither the bike nor the fork are very expensive - it's not Holy Grail worthy or anything like that.

Mike

The Die set runs about $200. or more. It's not hard to do, but cost prohibitive for most home mechanics. I would hope an LBS --if he has the die, most don't-- would do it for $20. or less. If the steer tube is slotted for HS spacers that has to be replaced/extended also.

I haven't done it either, but was reading about it the other day. Parktool makes cutting tools and a threader for them though. I don't think it would be too hard if you had the tools. Go to Parktool (http://www.parktool.com) and go to the frame section of tools. Good Luck!:)

Most bike shops should have the tools to do it, atleast every shop I have worked in or been in has. It will cost you between $20.00 and $40.00.

It is a fork that is suppose to be threaded right? This may sound like a silly question but I have lost count of the number of times someone has asked me to thread a threadless fork. A threadless fork should never be threaded, in case anyone did not know.

but can threaded steerers be used threadless, if the threads are cut off?

There are adapter kits to change from threaded to threadless. I know KING makes them and probably others.

Mike,
I would replace the headset with threadless. You can get inexpensive ones ($10-18, Ritchey and FSA) from chucksbikes.com as well as name brand (Titec, Cult, Specialized, Ritchey) threadlss stems for $5-6. Call Chuck about lengths. He often has lengths that aren't listed on the website.


One a related note, quill to threadless adapters work very well allowing you to use threadless stems on a threaded fork/headset setup. I have used both a 1" Cinelli ($20 from cbike.com) and a no name 1 1/8" ($8 from) chucksbikes.com.
Regards,
Raymond

A hint: Measure twice, cut once.

Seriously, though, if you go threadless, get the headset and a set of spacers BEFORE you make any cuts. Then make the first cut long enough for the headset and all the spacers. This serves two purposes. First you can always lower everything by cutting more off and using fewer spacers (they usually come in sets of 10, 7.5, 5, and 2.5 mm). Second, if you cut a little short the first time, you have a safety margin. Threadless headsets, and threaded ones, I assume, come with pretty good instructions on making the cut.

Now that I have experience a couple of threadless headsets I would not want to go back. They are easier to adjust and service. And you can buy stems from Chuck cheap enough to try different stem lengths.
Regards,
Raymond

Raymond: You certainly are a provider of good ideas. It's just like BOOM, BOOM, BOOM one after the other.

I'm going to have to digest how to make the switch to threadless with my existing hardware. Probably, I will have to contact you for some more details/advise on this.

Yo , our Rainman has gone from "rookie" to "MVP" In one season !! ...... you can learn lots when you really want to !!, It's just remembering that information, and recalling that information what counts !! ....:thumbup:

Thanks, Buddy. I'm not always sure some of the goofy ideas I come up with will work, but I figure I can throw them out and let the experts like you gently correct me. That is what brainstorming is about, kicking around ideas for discussion in a non-hostile environment.

This stuff I can remember. What I have trouble remembering is stuff like when my wife asks "Did you (fill in requested task/project here) like I asked you to?" :D