Bicycle Mechanics - Figuring out this old Specialized - which wheels?

http://ryanflowers.com/rockhopper/rightside.jpg
I'm trying to figure out this bike. What it has on it, how durable its parts are. Its a Specialized Rock Hopper. From what some have told me on this forum its a 88 or 89. Its got Shimano Deore derailers, very nice and I know they are great. Grip shifters are eventually going bye-bye, I will swap those out for trigger shifters. HATE those.

My *main* question rather is the wheels. All they say is "X28" in white lettering inside a blue rectangle box. How do I identify these wheels? They are 36 spoke wheels.

The thing is that I'm a big dude, 300lbs or so, and I am not easy on bikes as I like to hop curbs and stuff and I'm not all that good at it yet LOL.

So, any pointers on ID'ing the wheels?

Also the handle bar stem seems stuck, won't raise up/down when I loosen the bolt. Just wiggle it around and see if it loosens up, maybe?

Thanks everyone. This is such a great forum. I started out on another "cycling forum" that was not as friendly as you folks here.

Take care!

Those rims are probably "Saturae" rims, Specialized's house brand if that bike is as old as you think it is. Looks like the silver ones from your pic. That's a kick a$$ older hardtail. I've got an '87 Stumpjumper Comp I bought brand new with pretty much the stock equipment on it. It's heavy by today's standards but solid as he//. I still run my Saturae rims as well: 36 spokes. Hang on to that bike. And I also have a non-suspension fork and can keep up with the suspension crowd (within reason).
About the stem: wiggle it around and keep working it. A little bit of oil may help, some people may recommend an anti-seize compund. Put your 300 lbs into it!

If you loosen the stem bolt and it is backing out but not freeing the stem give the bolt a tap with a hammer to pop the wedge loose. If it still does not loosen turn the bike upside down, pull the front wheel, and drip lube in from the bottom of the fork. This might free it up.

That is a good, sturdy bike.

http://ryanflowers.com/rockhopper/rightside.jpgAlso the handle bar stem seems stuck, won't raise up/down when I loosen the bolt. Just wiggle it around and see if it loosens up, maybe?!

You might want to think twice about raising or lowering that stem. That particular design requires readjusting the front brake, which is one of the more difficult designs to adjust, whenever you mess with the stem.

That rear U brake is a pain too.

mmmm....biopace....

we have an older stumpjumper at the warehouse. it's LUGGED!!! i couldn't believe it! it looks about the same as that one, geometry-wise, but i think this one has cantis on it. it's a pretty nifty looking bike.

This is great info- THANKS! I rode the bike and I love it. I am saving all this info for future reference. Thanks for the note about the stem- didn't think of that ;-)

I gotta learn as much as I can as I am planning on a total rebuild of the bike this winter, including a new paint job.

You might want to think twice about raising or lowering that stem. That particular design requires readjusting the front brake, which is one of the more difficult designs to adjust, whenever you mess with the stem.

That rear U brake is a pain too.

Come on, Retro Grouch -- live up to your name and celebrate dead-end technology. :)

My Schwinn has a SunTour RollerCam front brake with through-the-stem cable routing and a Shimano under-the-chainstay U-Brake. Neither brake system is that big a pain to work on, and I really like my motorcycle-style 4-finger Shimano brake levers, which I can grab by the ends when holding onto my handlebar extensions.


---- "I ride a REAL Schwinn!"

Hmm, those grip-shifters might be replacemet anyway. The late-'80s bikes I've had all had thumb-top or Rapid-fart (or their equivalent) shifters. Grippers seemed to come 'round in the early '90s.

If that stem is giving you grief, you can count on the seatpost doing the same. Before you spend too much time with your 300 lb on that seat, loosen the binder bolt and try to work it loose. In both cases, when you get 'em out, greaze 'em up before you reinstall 'em.

The seat has already been greased and slides excellently. No problems there. I'll just buy some shimano rapid fire shifters for it and put those on instead.

The stem is not going to get touched until I tear down the bike for a rebuild. I'll deal with that then. No need to mess with it now.

Is it possible to upgrade this bike to the newer style brakes that all the new MTB's have? I happen to like those much better. I'd imagine its just a matter of finding a frame builder who can add the brazeon mounts for them, and buying them, right?

Is it possible to upgrade this bike to the newer style brakes that all the new MTB's have? I happen to like those much better. I'd imagine its just a matter of finding a frame builder who can add the brazeon mounts for them, and buying them, right?

Replacing the front brake is pretty much a direct bolt up except that you'll have to get a new brake lever to match the linear-pull brake. You are right in saying that you'd have to get new mounts welded on before you can replace the rear brake. Sounds like a lot of trouble to me for something that just slows you down. I think that I'd probably just leave well enough alone.

I think that I'd probably just leave well enough alone.

I get told that alot LOL. I think I'll just get it working perfectly and get it painted, new cables, new shifters, new cable housings, new bearings everywhere.

You see, I was planning on spending $400 on a new bike. I figure for half that I can turn THIS one into a new bike, basically. Then I'll have money left over to go buy a YAK trailer :D:D:D:D

Can't hurt to have a v-brake on the front. You're probably too big to be an endo risk, and the front does the bulk of the stopping anyway. Besides, the U-brake is a bit of a conversation piece ("dude, where's your rear brake?"). U-brakes actually bolt on using the same kind of studs on the stays, but the position relative to the rim is totally different.

May as well flip 'er over and shoot some oil down (up) thru the steerer tube now, give it time to work on that stuck stem.

I'm still learning. Which style is on there now- u-brake? And which style is the newer- V brake?

I'm still learning. Which style is on there now- u-brake? And which style is the newer- V brake?

You're rear brake is a U-brake. V-brake is actually one of those words, like Kleenex, that is trade marked. The correct generic term for the long straight arm mountain bike brakes is linear pull. To be a V-brake it has to be Shimano.