Bicycle Mechanics - Fork steerer tube questions

For the ancient Takara steel frame that I purchased, I have a few questions:

1-The threaded steerer tube is 1" external diameter, but the internal dimension is 21.1 or so. The available stems for these are non-alloy and quite heavy. How advisable is it to sand a 22.2 down to fit the steerer tube, instead of using a NOS heavy stem?

2-What are the considerations in purchasing a lighter threaded fork for the frame? If the present frame was set up for 27" instead of 700c, should this make a difference is selection of a fork? I know the brake drop would be off 4 mm, but I think some side-pulls woud work, and some would not reach. Since the external diameter of the included fork is 1", I guess a standard fork would work with the headset installed.

3-Considering the head tube angle, is this a factor in choosing new forks with different rakes?

Thank you, Chris.

For the ancient Takara steel frame that I purchased, I have a few questions:

1-The threaded steerer tube is 1" external diameter, but the internal dimension is 21.1 or so. The available stems for these are non-alloy and quite heavy. How advisable is it to sand a 22.2 down to fit the steerer tube, instead of using a NOS heavy stem?

2-What are the considerations in purchasing a lighter threaded fork for the frame? If the present frame was set up for 27" instead of 700c, should this make a difference is selection of a fork? I know the brake drop would be off 4 mm, but I think some side-pulls woud work, and some would not reach. Since the external diameter of the included fork is 1", I guess a standard fork would work with the headset installed.

3-Considering the head tube angle, is this a factor in choosing new forks with different rakes?

Thank you, Chris.

What are you trying to accomplish, Chris?

I think that your thought processes are exactly right, but is this something that you really want to do?.

It looks to me like you started with the objective of replacing the heavy steel stem on a low end, 25 year old bike that has 27 inch wheels.
To get a lighter stem to work you are talking about replacing the fork.
To fit the new fork you're talking about switching to 700c wheels.
To make the brakes work with the new wheels, you're talking about replacing the brakes.
All of a sudden, we're into the significant money range.

Even if you get all of this to work, all that you're going to have is a 25 year old low end bike with a few new parts. You could surely do better by searching garage sales, thrift shops and police auctions.

What are you trying to accomplish, Chris?

I think that your thought processes are exactly right, but is this something that you really want to do?.

It looks to me like you started with the objective of replacing the heavy steel stem on a low end, 25 year old bike that has 27 inch wheels.
To get a lighter stem to work you are talking about replacing the fork.
To fit the new fork you're talking about switching to 700c wheels.
To make the brakes work with the new wheels, you're talking about replacing the brakes.
All of a sudden, we're into the significant money range.

Even if you get all of this to work, all that you're going to have is a 25 year old low end bike with a few new parts. You could surely do better by searching garage sales, thrift shops and police auctions.

Retro-Good response, but I should clarify. I purchased a frame and fork only. In two parts, I was immediatly impressed with the lightness of the frame, but the fork-since it has a thicker steerer tube feels quite heavy. I started looking for a stem to fit the fork in 21.1 mm or so, and could only find some heavy steel stems from Harris Cyclery. My overall idea is to assemble a stable of bikes with 126 rear ends; and to have most run 700c's for interchangeability of wheels and tires. My Miyata 1000 was originally 27 inch wheels, but since it has cantilever brakes that seems to be no problem when I run brakes in converting to 700c. Both the Miyata and the Concorde are fixed, so when I want to try a different gear, I just swap the rear wheels.

Since I have many 22.2 mm stems in alloy, but nothing in 21.1 mm, I have to consider either buying a steel stem, or changing the fork which should work in the present headset, I think. Then I could use one of my lighter present stems, and the combination of stem and fork should give a better ride. I see where you are coming from though, maybe I am trying to convert a sow's ear into a leather purse.

Question: Are there any other considerations in changing forks such a rake am't etc., and compatability with head tube angle?

Question: Outside of brake reach, is there any other reason not to swap 27's with 700c's?

The Takara frame is setup for side-pull brakes, how difficult is it to find brakes to reach the extra 4 mm, or do you have to use a drop bolt?

Thanks, if you choose to bother to respond, Chris.

Question: Are there any other considerations in changing forks such a rake am't etc., and compatability with head tube angle?

Question: Outside of brake reach, is there any other reason not to swap 27's with 700c's?

The Takara frame is setup for side-pull brakes, how difficult is it to find brakes to reach the extra 4 mm, or do you have to use a drop bolt?

Actually, you really have to consider the whole bike when you get into the fork rake question. If you install a shorter front fork/wheel assembly, that will cause the front end of the bike frame to drop which will steepen the head tube angle. Besides wheel size, clearance between the top of the tire and the fork crown will also affect the height of the fork/wheel assembly. If you install a 700c fork, however, your brake reach problem goes away, expecially on a fixed gear 'cause you won't really need a back brake. Generally, you would like a fork with less rake to go with a steeper head tube angle.

You might lose a little bottom bracket clearance when you swap 27" wheels for 700c. I doubt it'd be enough for you to notice the difference on a freewheel bike, but you might find yourself hitting your pedal more often in turns on a fixed gear.

retro has a point about switching the front to 700c. But I think there would be no problems, geometry wise, if you replace the rear w/ a 700c too, provided the brakes would reach the rims (although you don't need it on fixies ;)).

If you are having problems w/ the quill stems, why not instead of buying a 1" threaded fork, get a 1" threadless. Of course this would mean getting a new aheadset, but getting parts would be a breeze compared to going with quills.

Since you are concerned about weight, the threadless system is lighter overall, and easier to maintain. :)