Bicycle Mechanics - CCP-4 and CCP-2 crank pullers.

OK, so I have a CCP-4 to take off the cranks on my bikes with ISIS BB's. I just bought an older commuter bike with a square taper BB and so I thought I had to get a different tool (namely, a CCP-2). I bring the CCP-2 home and to me it looks like the EXACT same tool....so my question I guess is should I take it back?? It says on the park website that the CCP-4 cannot be used on square tapered BB's, but the tool is identical in my eyes.

OK, so I have a CCP-4 to take off the cranks on my bikes with ISIS BB's. I just bought an older commuter bike with a square taper BB and so I thought I had to get a different tool (namely, a CCP-2). I bring the CCP-2 home and to me it looks like the EXACT same tool....so my question I guess is should I take it back?? It says on the park website that the CCP-4 cannot be used on square tapered BB's, but the tool is identical in my eyes.

There are two differences. The CCP-2 has a blue handle and the CCP-4 has a black handle. That's just so you can tell them apart at a glance. The functional difference is that the CCP-4 has a fatter spindle that is designed to push against the bottom bracket. It's too fat to fit through the square hole on the crankarm. The skinnier spindle on the CCP-2 is so skinny that it just gets lost in the hollow spindle of Isis and Octolink bottom brackets.

Thanks Retro, now how the hell do I get this crank off?! I followed the directions...I took off the hex bolt and dust cap on the crank itself. Then I threaded in the nut until it was bottomed out (I made sure it was in all the way). Then I threaded in the puller stud (the part attached to the handle, right?) and went until I felt resistance. Then I went more, as the instructions indicate but I cannot for the life of me get this damn thing off. It just requires too much torque...perhaps I'm doing something wrong? Do I keep that little screw-in tip on while I'm doing this or should I take it off?

Thanks Retro, now how the hell do I get this crank off?! I followed the directions...I took off the hex bolt and dust cap on the crank itself. Then I threaded in the nut until it was bottomed out (I made sure it was in all the way). Then I threaded in the puller stud (the part attached to the handle, right?) and went until I felt resistance. Then I went more, as the instructions indicate but I cannot for the life of me get this damn thing off. It just requires too much torque...perhaps I'm doing something wrong? Do I keep that little screw-in tip on while I'm doing this or should I take it off?



At times, the handles on those crank pullers seem too short to provide enough torque. Sometimes, I'll wear a good leather work glove to turn the handle. The handle is not ergonomic - too flat and the edge makes for a sore palm. Or, I have a pipe I place over the handle to give a larger lever arm (my preferred method). The square taper can get pressed on pretty tight.

Make sure that you haven't left a washer inside the crankarm. Make sure that you've got the body of the crank puller screwed as fully into the crankarm as you can. Sometimes it takes quite a lot of torque to make the crankarm start to come off.

Thanks guys I really appreciate the feedback. You may have missed the question at the end of my 2nd post... about that llittle screw-on tip at the end (it's smaller on the CCP-2 and bigger on the CCP-4).. do I keep it screwed in during this process or take it off?

Thanks guys I really appreciate the feedback. You may have missed the question at the end of my 2nd post... about that llittle screw-on tip at the end (it's smaller on the CCP-2 and bigger on the CCP-4).. do I keep it screwed in during this process or take it off?
LEAVE IT IN. That piece is what is supposed to press on the bottom bracket. Didn't your tool come with instructions?

Yes, it did. They weren't thorough at all. I also checked the Park Tools website and couldn't find any information on it either. I also read the Barnett manual on cotterless crankarms and couldn't find anything on it either. I guess i don't understand why they don't just have a permanent end on it instead of a screw-on one.

I guess i don't understand why they don't just have a permanent end on it instead of a screw-on one.

I have the older fashioned version that does not have the screwed on tip. I believe that tip "floats", so when it bears against the spindle of the bottom bracket, it will rotate. The rotation reduces the friction at that interface when you operate the puller. This ensures all the torque goes to pulling the crank arm off, and not "wasted" to fight friction.

Retro Grouch mentioned a very good idea - make sure any washers are removed.

Thanks for the replies, I got them off ;>

I guess i don't understand why they don't just have a permanent end on it instead of a screw-on one. Better yet, why don't they just sell one tool with two interchangeable tips, one for square and one for Octalink/ISIS? Color-code the tips (rather than the handle) and Bob's your uncle. Cheaper to buy, cheaper to maintain (only replace the tip when damaged/worn and not the whole tool), and one less tool cluttering up your box.

Better yet, why don't they just sell one tool with two interchangeable tips, one for square and one for Octalink/ISIS? Color-code the tips (rather than the handle) and Bob's your uncle. Cheaper to buy, cheaper to maintain (only replace the tip when damaged/worn and not the whole tool), and one less tool cluttering up your box.
Funny my crank puller (http://www.parktool.com/tools/CWP_6.shtml) came with both tips. You people with your insistance on handles - amazing.
http://www.parktool.com/images/tools/CWP_6.jpg