Road Cycling - new to road biking...

hey everybody. recently a few friends and i talked about possibly going on a road trip by bike. the only bike i own is my street bmx bike i used to ride all the time a few years ago so i've been meaning to buy a road bike mainly for exercise, leisure road biking, and the possible trip we've been talking about. i'm basically just looking for some advice on what brands/bikes i should look at (and those i should avoid). i'm looking to spend probably around $400-$800. i don't need an amazing bike but i don't want a bike that's too cheap and that i would simply replace in a year or so. i want this to be my road bike for a few years (with upgrades here and there of course), but i'm not looking to set any records or win any races or anything like that. thanks in advance for the input.

There's not that much difference among brands. The market is very competitive, and most bikes in a given price range will have comparable components, with minor differences in the places they cut costs (one company might use a cheap stem, another a cheap bottom bracket, another a cheap seatpost). I'd go to a bike shop (or an outdoor store that knows bikes, like REI), not a department store, look around and tell them what you want to do.
Some people will disagree, but I think you can get a decent, rideable bike, adequate for the kind of riding you describe, for $500 to $800. $1000 would be better, of course, and above about $1500-$1800 you start paying for labels rather than function. If you have an REI store nearby, it's worth looking there just to get an idea of what's available. I did my first century on a $175 bike, and it was hard as hell. But it's hard as hell on the $3000 bike I have now, too....

i was at a local bike shop and most of the bikes there seemed to be Giant. i was thinking about getting something like the Giant OCR3 (i think that's what it was called, it was about $599)...what do you think about this bike?

I agree with what Velo Dog said and add one small piece of advice. Stay away from the Sora component line from Shimano. With one exception the Marin Venezia. Good frameset for the money and will do everything you want. I would also check out the Felt F80, the Fuji Newest and the Giant OCR2.

I agree with what Velo Dog said and add one small piece of advice. Stay away from the Sora component line from Shimano. With one exception the Marin Venezia. Good frameset for the money and will do everything you want. I would also check out the Felt F80, the Fuji Newest and the Giant OCR2.

the bikes you mentioned are a bit too expensive for me. the only reason i'm watching the price is because i want to make sure i'm going to continue cycling for a long time (rather than spend a lot of money on something i'll no longer be interested in a few months). i definitely want to get a bike with a good frame because if i do continue cycling i'd like to be able to slowly make upgrades without needing a new frame. what does everyone think about the Giant OCR3? are there any other similar bikes that perhaps don't have the same problems as the OCR3 (it seems as though the SORA components are the only thing to complain about on this bike; also, keep in mind the OCR3 runs about $550-600)?

edit: i would also like to make sure that the frame be a compact frame...

also, looking for opinions on the trek 1000 (although i can't tell if it's a compact frame because it doesn't say anywhere in the specs, or at least i didn't see it)

I have SORA on my Bianchi, I havent had any real complaints with them.

what does everyone think about the Giant OCR3? are there any other similar bikes that perhaps don't have the same problems as the OCR3 (it seems as though the SORA components are the only thing to complain about on this bike; also, keep in mind the OCR3 runs about $550-600)?

While I like the OCR series, I just can't get past the OCR3's Sora group. You might want to check out the Ibex Vantage 4400 (http://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes/2004/VTG-4400-Details.html). If you're quick, you might be able to just make the deadline for their special promo. However, I wouldn't recommend you rush into that decision unless you're absolutely sure of the fit.



edit: i would also like to make sure that the frame be a compact frame

May I ask why? Is it just for looks or are you at the extreme small end of the size range?

May I ask why? Is it just for looks or are you at the extreme small end of the size range?

well, i'm only 5'3 so the compact frame is nice. the look is also a bonus though.

as for the Ibex Vantage 4400, it looks cool (hopefully they have another color other than yellow though?) and the price is nice. other than that, i don't really know much about road bikes (as i have mentioned) so everyone's opinion/comparison is appreciated..i did notice that it does not have the Sora drivetrain package, which i figured is why you recomended it..

You may also want to check out the Felt F80s (http://www.feltracing.com/2004_bikes/f80.html). They're going for around $750.

the bikes you mentioned are a bit too expensive for me. the only reason i'm watching the price is because i want to make sure i'm going to continue cycling for a long time (rather than spend a lot of money on something i'll no longer be interested in a few months). i definitely want to get a bike with a good frame because if i do continue cycling i'd like to be able to slowly make upgrades without needing a new frame.

The Giant OCR3 will surely get the job done. If it fits wee go for it. The Trek 1000 is standard geometry. The Marin Venezia has carbon seat stays on the frame. No other bike in this category has these. Something you will be greatful for on any longish ride. I think it's the best frame for the money in this range. It's compact geometry to boot. List price is $720 and usually you can get them for under that. Right in your price range. :)

Ironhorse Triumph - $700. Compact geometry w/Tiagra + 105 mix.

55/Rad

Ironhorse Triumph - $700. Compact geometry w/Tiagra + 105 mix.

55/Rad

Great value as well. You can put KHS Flite 500 on that pile too. You can usually find these brands discounted fairly deeply.

There are a ton of decent road bikes available. Each manufacturer builds their frames with what they think is the "Optimum" geometry. The question is, "Optimum, for whom?"

Since we are not all built the same and we all have different body measurements, you need to find which manufacturers' optimum geometry fits YOUR body.

The ONLY way to do this is to test ride as many different brands as possible. Go to EVERY shop in your area and test ride bikes till you learn what you like and don't like. This can take some time. Don't buy online and don't buy the first bike you see or the one that "looks" the best.

Buy the one that FITS the best.

Other things to consider. If you can increase you budget to $1,000 you will get the most bike for your money. The $1,000 price point is the most sought after market share for most manuf. Bikes for this price are loaded with nice stuff. Usually they are aluminum frames, with a carbon fork and Shimano 105 components. As you go up in price, the frames and fork will remain constant but you start to see upgrades in components to Ultegra level and the wheelset quality increases.

Good Luck

L8R

if you're a girl you might want to consider trying to get a steel framed bike rather than aluminum even though in your pricerange that might lead to shopping for a used bike rather than a new one. used bikes can be a really good value although it requires a bit more of an educated shopper. you don't want anything so old it doesn't have integrated shift levers, but a steel bike that's a few years old w/ a 105 group would be preferable in a lot of ways to a new alum bike with Tiagra.

maybe ask some girls who ride whether steel is really really more comfortable. i can't attest to it personally but every girl roadie i've known has mentioned it at some point.

if you're a girl

nope.

okay, just checking - i'm a tall skinny boy actually and i'm trying to go from alum to steel because my body is sorta messed up and everybody swears about how much more forgiving the ride of a steel frame is.

when i tested it, the ocr3 was terrific. it's a sport-touring bike and the adjustable stem will allow you to get comfy or race depending on your needs.

sd

i've been hearing/reading a lot of good things about the OCR3...except for the Sora parts on it. how much would it cost to upgrade the Sora parts to something better/more reliable?

the Marin Venezia has also caught my eye. i will be contacting some bike shops in my area inquiring about the prices on both of these bikes.

i've been hearing/reading a lot of good things about the OCR3...except for the Sora parts on it. how much would it cost to upgrade the Sora parts to something better/more reliable?

More than it would be to just spring for the OCR2.



the Marin Venezia has also caught my eye. i will be contacting some bike shops in my area inquiring about the prices on both of these bikes.

You might want to check out the K2 Mach 2.0 as well. REI should carry them.

what exactly is the problem with the Sora group? the reason why i ask is because most of the entry level bikes come with the Sora parts on them....

what exactly is the problem with the Sora group? the reason why i ask is because most of the entry level bikes come with the Sora parts on them....

They don't shift as well, it's only 8 speed on the back, and the up-shift isn't integrated into the brake lever position.
On every other STI, to shift your rear group down, you push on the brake lever sideways. To shift up, you keep your hand in the same position and do the same thing to the secondary lever that sits right behind the brake lever.
On the Sora, shifting down is the same but shifting up requires you to push on a button that's on the side of the brake lever assembly near the top with your thumb. When you're in the drops and want to go faster, very few people can reach that nub to shift up unless they get up onto the hoods to shift.

I know I keep telling people this but it's been my very positive experience that you can always get something in last year's model discounted. I got my OCR2 for $550 down from $850 cause it was last year's model.

Also try www.getawaybikes.com, once you're sure of your geometry, if you really can't afford a "name brand" bike and feel relatively comfortable and mechanically inclined with bike components that you can service it yourself, you can save a LOT of money buying from them. Otherwise, it's always good to have the love and support that only your LBS or possibly mother can provide.

Hi big,

I have a Trek 1000. Have had it for about 3 years now. Absolutely love it. I was a newbie, well I still am, when I got the bike, and like you I didn't know if I would stick with cycling so I went with a cheap entry-level bike. It totally fit my student's budget back then.

As someone already mentioned, the Trek 1000 has a standard, non-compact frame. And that was the main reason I chose it over the OCR3 because I didn't like the compact frame look. The Sora group is crap to lots of people, but to me, it is absolutely fine. I don't mind putting my hand back on the hood to upshift even though I do spend lots of time on the drops. I don't race. The front shifting is far from smooth but it is good enough for me as I often just use the 42 chainring. The wheels, however, are not too great, and they will go out of true quickly. But I don't mind learning how to true a wheel and if I mess up, I'll take it to the shop for a quick $15 truing. I live Boston, the pothole heaven.

Overall the bike is a very nice, especially if you're not totally sure whether you'll stick with the sport. It's nice enough not to discourage you away from cycling, but it's not too expensive a mistake when you decide to quit it a few months from now.

Stay away from the Sora component line from Shimano. With one exception the Marin Venezia.

i know this was posted a while back, but why is the Marin Venezia an exception? the cheapest Marin that comes with the Tiagra group is listed as $1000+ on the Marin site (Argenta). why is the Venezia an exception and why is the Argenta so much more expensive than other similar bikes (such as the OCR2)?

BTW the OCR stock brake pads are dangerously underpowered and the compound is way too hard. Get something like koolstops when you buy it. Otherwise, if you plan to ride this thing on the streets, the stock brakes are death traps.

btw, i have found a 2003 OCR2 in my area for $699 which is ok, but i'm still looking around hoping to get a better deal....

i was looking at the specs for the 2003 OCR2 and the 2004 OCR3 and aside from the Sora group of parts most of the other parts are differnet as well...is the 2003 OCR2 definitely the better buy (even if it's going to cost about $100+ more)?

btw, i have found a 2003 OCR2 in my area for $699 which is ok, but i'm still looking around

hoping to get a better deal....



I went through a similiar decision last November, upgrading from my old 10 speed. I test rode the Trek 1200 and the Giant OCR's. Looked at the Spec. Allez.

I went with the OCR2. Upgradeable components were a plus and the bike felt alive under me! $849 list price on the 2004 model. I've had no complaints. All of the OCR's share the frame. But as expressed here so many times, test ride stuff.

Sheldon

Big. Regarding frame size and compact frames, a compact frame is designed to be just like a normal frame, but with loads more standover clearance due to its dropped top tube. It is NOT designed to be fitted with minimal standover clearance.
A compact frame which is too big may have enough standover room for you to straddle the frame, but will be too long for you.

If you want to use a bike for commuting, general utility riding and touring, as well as fitness and fun, then make sure you have frame fittings for a luggage rack and fenders, and have sufficient tyre clearance for suitable tyres+fenders.

In the UK, you can get road bikes with 26" MTB wheels, which are great all-purpose bikes, esp for smaller riders (Thorn bikes at sjscycles.com).
Does anyone know of this style in the US?

i know this was posted a while back, but why is the Marin Venezia an exception? the cheapest Marin that comes with the Tiagra group is listed as $1000+ on the Marin site (Argenta). why is the Venezia an exception and why is the Argenta so much more expensive than other similar bikes (such as the OCR2)?

It's the exception only because the frame comes with carbon seat stays at that price point. In others words, IMO the value of the frame out weighs the disadvantage of the Sora group.

As an aside the Sora stuff will work and if dialed work well. That being said when you compare it in performance, feel and durability to say 105 or Ultegra it becomes quite obvious why I don't like it. My wife had Sora on her bike and now that she's gotten Ultegra there's no going back. As a starter or if you don't ride much you probably not notice.

hey everybody. recently a few friends and i talked about possibly going on a road trip by bike. the only bike i own is my street bmx bike i used to ride all the time a few years ago so i've been meaning to buy a road bike mainly for exercise, leisure road biking, and the possible trip we've been talking about. i'm basically just looking for some advice on what brands/bikes i should look at (and those i should avoid). i'm looking to spend probably around $400-$800. i don't need an amazing bike but i don't want a bike that's too cheap and that i would simply replace in a year or so. i want this to be my road bike for a few years (with upgrades here and there of course), but i'm not looking to set any records or win any races or anything like that. thanks in advance for the input.

Looking at the type of riding you're doing, I'd suggest something like a Bianchi Volpe or a Fuji Touring rather than the Giants you've been hearing about. Both are solid bikes around $800 and are very similar. For your trip, you can load them with gear. The Fuji even comes with a rack. They are set up with good gearing for hill climbing, wider tires for comfort and are still light enough that they'll go reasonably fast. Great all-around bikes. If fitted properly, they'll be more comfortable for longer distances than bikes designed with racers in mind. They aren't compact geometry, but they do have a slight slope to the top tube. Plus, they are available in small sizes. For fast club rides or entry level racing, the Giants and Treks would be a better choice.

If you are really set on a compact geometry and want something with a little more zip, you could also consider the entry level Specialized Sequoia or the Trek 1000c or 1200c. (I do think the Treks are a better deal than the Sequoia, though.)

Looking at the type of riding you're doing, I'd suggest something like a Bianchi Volpe or a Fuji Touring rather than the Giants you've been hearing about. Both are solid bikes around $800 and are very similar. For your trip, you can load them with gear. The Fuji even comes with a rack. They are set up with good gearing for hill climbing, wider tires for comfort and are still light enough that they'll go reasonably fast. Great all-around bikes. If fitted properly, they'll be more comfortable for longer distances than bikes designed with racers in mind.

however, i am not sure if touring will happen, it is merely a possibility. also, if it did happen, it wouldn't happen very often at all. mostly i would use the bike for keeping fit/exercise.

btw, i have found a 2003 OCR2 in my area for $699 which is ok, but i'm still looking around hoping to get a better deal....

i was looking at the specs for the 2003 OCR2 and the 2004 OCR3 and aside from the Sora group of parts most of the other parts are differnet as well...is the 2003 OCR2 definitely the better buy (even if it's going to cost about $100+ more)?

bump...any opinions?

bump...any opinions?

Is the 2003 OCR2 the Spring edition with the carbon fork? I personally don't care for Sora. I know I'm going to come off as a bike snob by saying this but I go well out of my way to avoid Sora because I just don't like the way the shifter works. And if you're going to upgrade the shifters, you may as well jump to 9-speed and thus you're looking at upgrading the other components so why not just spring for Tiagra or better? I however do like that the 2004 OCR3s now come with a carbon fork but I still would personally jump to the OCR2 and bypass the OCR3 even between a 2004 OCR3 and a 2003 OCR2. A new fork will cost less than even just changing out the shifters. A really nice new fork will cost less than changing out the drivetrain.

I am sort of new to road cycling, however I have found that going with a "lasts years model" is the way to go. You don't have to pay more for a 2004 model (which seem to be the exact same for most companies (minus a few diffrences). I went with a 2003 Felt F85 and I am extremely happy with the choice. Felt bikes are quality bikes...then again so are most bikes now it seems. Plus going with a cheaper older model allows for upgrades and fun little stuff like bags or whatever you may need without having to drop $1000 bucks to get on the road. I could be way off, but I suggest stopping into your LBS (local bike shop) and talk to them. Chances are if you go in asking questions and getting ideas your final choice will work out great for you...you might even got a great deal on something as a result...AND if there are some upgrades you may want to get you will have some spare cash left over to pick them up. Good luck and enjoy!

khuon your road bike is killer...I have been admiring it for the last few months. It seems like a great bike. About how much does something like that go for if you don't mind me asking?


Is the 2003 OCR2 the Spring edition with the carbon fork? I personally don't care for Sora. I know I'm going to come off as a bike snob by saying this but I go well out of my way to avoid Sora because I just don't like the way the shifter works. And if you're going to upgrade the shifters, you may as well jump to 9-speed and thus you're looking at upgrading the other components so why not just spring for Tiagra or better? I however do like that the 2004 OCR3s now come with a carbon fork but I still would personally jump to the OCR2 and bypass the OCR3 even between a 2004 OCR3 and a 2003 OCR2. A new fork will cost less than even just changing out the shifters. A really nice new fork will cost less than changing out the drivetrain.

what do you guys think/know about the Mercier aquila AL 2004? i couldn't find a link with information of it to post, but someone emailed me and mentioned a place in my area where i can purchase it for about $625 and I have confirmed this...

if anyone has a link to info on this bike could you post it please?

khuon your road bike is killer...I have been admiring it for the last few months. It seems like a great bike. About how much does something like that go for if you don't mind me asking?

The frame and fork retails (from Aegis directly) for $2100 ($1800 for the frame only) although I think Aegis has discontinued their own fork in favour of the Reynolds Ouza Pro. I also added the bionic-weave finish which adds about 15% more stiffness to the layup. This adds an additional $300. I then spec'ed with their standard Dura-Ace kit (add about $1000) but did some substitutions like the Ksyrium SSC wheels and the FSA carbon pro cranks. Total came out at the time to around $5000. My favourite bike shop handled all the logistics. They're an authorised Aegis dealer. Almost everything I have on the bike is ca 2001. Were I to do things again today, I would most likely go with updated parts on many things but would also use Campy Record instead of Shimano Dura-Ace. As a matter of fact I'm saving up for that as an upgrade. Old parts will go on another bike I'll be building specifically for travel.

If you are really set on a compact geometry and want something with a little more zip, you could also consider the entry level Specialized Sequoia or the Trek 1000c or 1200c. (I do think the Treks are a better deal than the Sequoia, though.)

I would strongly recommend staying away from the entry-level Sequoia precisely because of the Sora shifters. I love my bike, but really wish I had gone with at least the next level to get the better components. It's less expensive in the long run to buy the better bike now rather than upgrade later. Take it from one who's still suffering from buyer's remorse. That said, I otherwise love the bike.

what do you guys think/know about the Mercier aquila AL 2004? i couldn't find a link with information of it to post, but someone emailed me and mentioned a place in my area where i can purchase it for about $625 and I have confirmed this...

if anyone has a link to info on this bike could you post it please?

bump...opinions?

i found info on the Mercier Aquila:

Frame: Road Tuned T7 Double-Butted 7005 Aluminum
Fork: Kinesis Carbon Fiber 700c
Derailleurss: Shimano 105 Triple rear (Special Black Finish), Shimano 3300 Triple front
Shifters: Shimano Tiagra STI
Brakes: Tektro Forged Dual Pull Special Black Finish
Hubs: Comp Sealed Bearing
Rims: DA22 Black Anodized AERO Profile Technology, DoubleWall, Machined Sidewalls for enhanced braking power
Crank: RPM (By FSA) Forged Aluminum Triple 52/42/30 T
Cassette: 9 Speed 12-25 T
Saddle: FDL CompRace XP
Seatpost: Fleur-de-Lys Carbon Fiber Race 300mm
Handlebars: Ergo Butted Aluminum
Pedals: VP Ultralight Road Clipless(cleats included) Compatible with all SPD Shoes
Tires: Kenda Koncept 700X23c


so, what do you guys think?