Bicycle Mechanics - Bolt Threads. Loctite?

OK, this really isn't a bike question but it is a related to a bike rack. I have had a Sportworks Mod Series rack that i have only used a few times. It comes with an anti wobble bolt that helps snug up the hitch assembly into the receiver. The problem is that after only one use, the "locking anti wobble bolt" (which i purchased as an option) is able to be threaded completely in by hand and although it gets tight, it doesn't until the head is up against the frame.

Before i first used it i had to use a ratchet to get it all the way in. Anyway, I called Sportworks and they told me that they all get that way after a couple uses. They said they put some yellow junk on the threads to make them tight but it wears off. (pretty fast, i might add) They suggested that i get some form of medium duty locktite. So i did. It is listed as "serviceable."

My question is, does this seem normal? Should i try some of this gunk or just let it go? The bolt can't fall out on the locking bolt but will be much looser than i would prefer. I am not a thread expert but i guess i thought you could thread a bolt into a "nut" more than a few times before it would go in by hand.

Go to your local hardware store and get a locknut. These have a nylon insert on one end of the nut that will "grip" the threads. Even this will, after enough uses (we're talking probably dozens, maybe), lose it's effectiveness.

Go to your local hardware store and get a locknut. These have a nylon insert on one end of the nut that will "grip" the threads. Even this will, after enough uses (we're talking probably dozens, maybe), lose it's effectiveness.


Not sure if i can get a nut inside there. It is pretty small inside that tube as you can see. Also the obviously is an existing set of threads in the right side where the bolt head is. So can i use a nut in addition to the threaded collar on the square tube?

I guess i would need a long threaded bolt to do that. The instructions from Sportworks say, " Do not replace the anti wobble bolt with one that does not thave a lock or thread locking feature. Doing so may result in the bolt disengaging and the rack falling off of the vehicle. If the thread locking diminishes so you can thread the bolt by hand, contact Sportworks for a replacement bolt." Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. I think they are pulling a fast one on me here.

Well...you could take the bolt out and gently hammer the threads. Not enough to really damage them, but enough to slightly flatten them a little.

No gaurantees tho.

Go to a plumbing supply or hardware store and buy some
"Locktite teflon pipe dope" to use in this application.
(IT'S WHITE IN COLOR)

We used this product extensivly in the factory where I worked
as an anti-vibe lock on bolts that were going to be removed
to be adjusted from time to time. This product will dry to
a semi-gummy consistancy and will hold torque but still be
easy to remove the nut/bolt. DO NOT USE THE RED COLORED
LOCTITE PRODUCT ON ANYTHING YOU WISH TO TAKE APART.

I hate to say it, but there are some really bad suggestions here.

Use Locktite. That is the product that is designed for the job you are trying to do.

Pipe dope is a sealer, not a thread locker. Hammering the threads? You will deserve what you get on that one. Do it right. Just a little drop of Locktite is all you need. You will be able to remove it.

Not sure if i can get a nut inside there. It is pretty small inside that tube as you can see. Also the obviously is an existing set of threads in the right side where the bolt head is. So can i use a nut in addition to the threaded collar on the square tube?

I guess i would need a long threaded bolt to do that. The instructions from Sportworks say, " Do not replace the anti wobble bolt with one that does not thave a lock or thread locking feature. Doing so may result in the bolt disengaging and the rack falling off of the vehicle. If the thread locking diminishes so you can thread the bolt by hand, contact Sportworks for a replacement bolt." Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. I think they are pulling a fast one on me here. [Hmm, my original reply disappeared...] So on the right side of the picture, that's not a loose nut? It's part of the tube? I was gonna suggest the nylock nut as suggested above, but in place of the one in the picture. But if it's part of (or more likely welded to) the tube, that's out. Ideally, if that "stud" were longer, you could thread it further, to where it sticks out of the existing nut, and then get another nut to lock against it, in true "lock nut" fashion. But it looks pretty "proprietary".

Ditto on the pipe dope. Does nothing to lock threads.

[Hmm, my original reply disappeared...] So on the right side of the picture, that's not a loose nut? It's part of the tube? I was gonna suggest the nylock nut as suggested above, but in place of the one in the picture. But if it's part of (or more likely welded to) the tube, that's out. Ideally, if that "stud" were longer, you could thread it further, to where it sticks out of the existing nut, and then get another nut to lock against it, in true "lock nut" fashion. But it looks pretty "proprietary".

Ditto on the pipe dope. Does nothing to lock threads.

Sorry, should have explained better. On the right side of the square tube is actually the bolt head. THere are threads on the right side of the square tube. The threads are actually "pressed" into the side of the tube. So the only thing holding the tube square into the receiver is the threads on the right side of that tube.

If you are familiar with a standard trailer hitch/ receiver set up, you usually just use a hitch pin to keep your hitch from falling out. THe threads are necessary on this bike rack to keep everything snugged up and to keep the rack and bike from wobbling all over the place.

THis is the latest reply from Sportworks...
We are glad to see you are continuing to keep in contact with us about your concerns or questions. And thank you for the great review.




The anti-wobble feature comes from the fact that we weld the nut inside the 2” hitch assembly and press fit the nut in the 1 ¼” hitch assembly. Other companies don’t use a nut at all or have one that can slide in and out. Our standard bolts that come with the rack have a “patch” on the threads to help it stay put. That one can not be put in by hand. However, our locking bolt does not come with this patch. The locking head will prevent the bolt from coming out. You should be able to tighten the bolt securely with a socket once you hand thread it in. If you want more resistance on the threads please feel free to apply some locktite.

Please let us know if you have any further questions.

Sincerely,

Zqwan "ZQ" Peterson

Customer Service

Guess they are claiming this is normal. I will see how it goes the next time i use it. BTW, what the heck is a "locking head"? Geesh, how can a bolt be so complicated?

I am using a Sportworks Mod myself. Mine loosened up a couple times. What I did was to put the ratchet on the bolt and give it the proper torque.

The proper torque was achieved when I was pulling so hard that I thought an eyeball was going to shoot out of my head. It has not loosened since. Maybe 6 months.

I really think one drop of Locktite (removable type) will solve all of your problems. It may even create world peace. :rolleyes:


Geesh, how can a bolt be so complicated?
Yes. Fastener technology is actually quite complex.

Yes. Fastener technology is actually quite complex.

They had to send men to the Moon to come out with Velcro.

The proper torque was achieved when I was pulling so hard that I thought an eyeball was going to shoot out of my head. It has not loosened since. Maybe 6 months.

So you leave your rack on year round or what? Or am i confused?