Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Drive Trains

Bikeforums.net is a forum about nothing but bikes. Our community can help you find information about hard-to-find and localized information like bicycle tours, specialties like where in your area to have your recumbent bike serviced, or what are the best bicycle tires and seats for the activities you use your bike for.




View Full Version : Drive Trains


sspd3933
06-16-04, 05:53 PM
I heard that if you are going to make a change to any part of the drive train, such as a new chain or free wheel, that you should change out everything...chain ring, chain and free wheel all at the same time. Thoughts?


goatmeal
06-16-04, 05:58 PM
I personally don't change everything out, I just slap a new chain on my existing set up. Considering how fast I seem to go through chains, it would be too expensive to replace all other components, and I don't know if I would notice that much of a difference.

Phil

TimArchy
06-16-04, 06:06 PM
From what I've heard, if you're just doing the chain, just do the chain. If you're getting a new chainring or cog/freewheel, get a new chain as well. Something about old chains putting greater wear on new cogs/rings.

tim


Cynikal
06-16-04, 08:18 PM
I've heard this as well. I doubt it would apply to fixies or SS's. From what I know a new chain on well worn parts causes shifting problems, not an issue for us. I still its a ploy to spend more on parts you don't need.


Cheers

dabern
06-17-04, 07:01 AM
It can be a problem on fixed if the old chain is extremely worn...as a chain wears it will also wear cogs/chainrings to a lesser degree and change the profile of the gaps between chainring/cog teeth, making them deeper...then new chain will try to "climb" up the worn teeth, possibly resulting in unexpected and ugly slippage. If you swap out old chains on a reasonable schedule then I would imagine you could get 3 or 4 chains worth of wear out of a chainring/cog combo before they would also need to be replaced.

HereNT
06-17-04, 06:01 PM
I just replace the chain when it starts looking a little too rusty or starts feeling 'weak' - I don't know why, but I just get paranoid about it sometimes. I need to go back to one of those nice 3/8" wide track chains, but need to get a new chain tool first :( I probably do 3 or 4 chains a year.

I almost never change the chainring on my bikes, but do change the back cog out a couple of times a year. It probably makes a difference what cog you buy, too. I've got a cheap 18t on my winter rim that is TOTALLY bent up. But the new DuraAce 16t I put on my new rim looks like it will last a long, long time.

Basically, change it when it looks like it needs to be changed, I guess....