Commuting - Locking Methods Tested

Some of you will be familiar with the Sheldon Brown locking method; the U-Lock goes through the back tire and the bike chain, but not the frame. Here’s what I think, his idea is not sound, I could cut through a rim and tube with a hacksaw and clip the chain in about 1min, bend the rim and remove the bike. Can anyone convince me or tell me why this method should offer a cautious biker security? Tell me what do you think is the best and easiest method and why don't others work?

(Also, I would not be suprised if bolt cutters could make lite work of a frame, tube and chain.)

Link for Sheldon Brown Method: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/locktechnique1.jpg

so have you tested this? i have some old bent wheels and i to have been meaning to try this out with a hack saw, wire cutters, angle grinder, that sort of thing. when possible i lock up rear wheel and seat tube to inmoveable object and front wheel to frame with ulocks.

Destroying the rear wheel is going to make the bike nearly worthless and unwieldy to transport. Were I a thief, I'd steal something that I could easily sell rather than a bike with no chain, rear wheel, or cassette.

Some of you will be familiar with the Sheldon Brown locking method; the U-Lock goes through the back tire and the bike chain, but not the frame. Here’s what I think, his idea is not sound, I could cut through a rim and tube with a hacksaw and clip the chain in about 1min, bend the rim and remove the bike. Can anyone convince me or tell me why this method should offer a cautious biker security? Tell me what do you think is the best and easiest method and why don't others work?

(Also, I would not be suprised if bolt cutters could make lite work of a frame, tube and chain.)



The arguement he poses is that, just like putting the Ulock through the frame, it cannot be removed unless you cut something (obviously this only works if the rear wheel is locked inside of the triangle). Another benefit is that you can use a mini u-lock when locking with that method, which makes a bottle jack lock-breaking not possible (this is easier with a larger ulock).

If a theif destroys parts of the bike in order to secure it, they lose value of the bike. That could be a deterrent. If they just want to vandalize then it doesn't matter.

I use that method when my Ulock can't cover both the frame and rear wheel. If the bike won't fit that way, I'll try locking the front wheel to the frame, and least preferrable is the frame only. I never lock just the front wheel to something. I want the frame and rear wheel secured since they're the most pricey components, so that's my preference in locking.

It's possible that a professional thief could steal almost any bike -- regardless of whether you use the U-Lock on the frame or the tire and rim -- because he or she will have the tools to break the lock itself, instead of worrying about either the bike frame or the wheel. I think Sheldon's method might be a deterrent for impulse bike thieves, who usually look for a way to steal an easy-to-steal bike and ride it away. It would be difficult to ride away on a bike with a broken wheel and a broken chain.

By your logic, there is not sound way to lock up a bike.

I look at locking as a deterrent-- not a guarantee against theft. I had a roommate who locked her bike to the front railing of the house. When she returned from work, the railing and the bike were gone. Just saying...

My locking method doesn't have to be thief-proof.

It just has to look more thief-proof than the bike next to mine.

It's possible that a professional thief could steal almost any bike -- regardless of whether you use the U-Lock on the frame or the tire and rim -- because he or she will have the tools to break the lock itself, instead of worrying about either the bike frame or the wheel. I think Sheldon's method might be a deterrent for impulse bike thieves, who usually look for a way to steal an easy-to-steal bike and ride it away. It would be difficult to ride away on a bike with a broken wheel and a broken chain.

Yes, I agree, it is a deterrent, but it "can" be defeated. I like this, you guys are moving me in the direction of this method and I like this method because its simple, I just worry about "the thief without a brain." You know, the guy who goes to work without thinking through the puzzle. "Oh crap" he might say, "I didn't realize that I would have to carry this bike away." And then he leaves the mess.

By your logic, there is not sound way to lock up a bike.

I look at locking as a deterrent-- not a guarantee against theft. I had a roommate who locked her bike to the front railing of the house. When she returned from work, the railing and the bike were gone. Just saying...

Yes, but would you agree that there are degrees of deterrent? Like the man said, "I just need to lock better than the bike next to mine." What is more discouraging, locking through the frame and wheel or just the wheel? If we think like a thief… they like the challenge, “I’ll bet I could break that lock, or undo that arraignment” they think to themselves, “and then the bike is mine.” I think the Brown method might even tempt a thief to give it a shot. What do you guys think- am I out of touch with reality? We must also not forget that Brown's bike has older tougher rims, and yes it does make a diffrence.

Respectfully
Jack

What do you guys think- am I out of touch with reality?

Yes.

Yes.

Perhaps you would be so kind as to tell me why?

Thanks
Jack

The claim is that the tension the wheel is under would cause the rim to pinch the blade and make it difficult to cut with a hacksaw. I say find a sacrificial rear wheel mounted with a wire bead tire and a sacrificial chain and find out how long it takes to do all of this. Record it and post it on youtube.

I would be interested to see the results.

The problem with Sheldon's method is that it doesn't look secure. Some thief will think, "that sucker only locked the wheel so I take the rest of the bike" and by the time thief realizes that the bike can't be taken by just releasing the wheel, you bike will be in pieces.

If you lock the rear wheel along with one of the seat stays, it will be secure and look secure.

What is more discouraging, locking through the frame and wheel or just the wheel? If we think like a thief… they like the challenge, “I’ll bet I could break that lock, or undo that arraignment” they think to themselves, “and then the bike is mine.” I think the Brown method might even tempt a thief to give it a shot. What do you guys think- am I out of touch with reality? We must also not forget that Brown's bike has older tougher rims, and yes it does make a diffrence.
I expect most thieves have developed one or two methods of stealing bikes and will go for the targets that let them use those methods. One common one is to attack the larger U-locks with a jack that splits it open and Brown's method is designed to thwart that by use of a smaller U-lock.

If they still do give it a try I think they'll find that it's more difficult than you think. Just sawing through the rim is unlikely to work while the spokes are still intact since the rim is under a great deal of tension and will jam the saw blade. So you first need to cut many of the spokes, then saw through the tire/rim, and finally cut the chain. At the end of that process you're still left with a bike that's going to be very conspicuous due to the broken rim and with a diminished resale value.

Yes, it could be done, but it requires a thief with multiple tools who isn't concerned about being seen with a bike that will clearly look stolen and who doesn't mind the lost value due to the destroyed wheel.

I expect most thieves have developed one or two methods of stealing bikes and will go for the targets that let them use those methods. One common one is to attack the larger U-locks with a jack that splits it open and Brown's method is designed to thwart that by use of a smaller U-lock.

If they still do give it a try I think they'll find that it's more difficult than you think. Just sawing through the rim is unlikely to work while the spokes are still intact since the rim is under a great deal of tension and will jam the saw blade. So you first need to cut many of the spokes, then saw through the tire/rim, and finally cut the chain. At the end of that process you're still left with a bike that's going to be very conspicuous due to the broken rim and with a diminished resale value.

Yes, it could be done, but it requires a thief with multiple tools who isn't concerned about being seen with a bike that will clearly look stolen and who doesn't mind the lost value due to the destroyed wheel.


Excellent point!

Jack

My locking method doesn't have to be thief-proof.

It just has to look more thief-proof than the bike next to mine.

Exactly.

My father told me one time "Locks only keep honest folk honest." If a thief wants it bad enough he will get it.
I use two cable combination locks one for each wheel/frame/something solid.&
A Onguard U lock (front wheel/frame)
A large cable w/padlock.(rear wheel/frame/something solid)
I use different combinations of the above depending on need for security.

Exactly.

My father told me one time "Locks only keep honest folk honest." If a thief wants it bad enough he will get it.
I use two cable combination locks one for each wheel/frame/something solid.&
A Onguard U lock (front wheel/frame)
A large cable w/padlock.(rear wheel/frame/something solid)
I use different combinations of the above depending on need for security.

"Locks only keep honest people honest," but we must not forget there are many people that they also turn away. So, in reality they do more than that. A good lock will not only deter a thief, but in many cases it will prove impossible for him to open. No, I am not saying that you can't break a lock- every lock can be broken. However, I am saying that a good lock will also keep dishonest people away and not just the one’s who saw an opportunity. Indeed, a good lock will make it so that even if a certain thief wants a bike, he will not be able to get it because he does not have the tools, method, skill or ideal location. Contrary to popular opinion, good locks can actually protect your investment. And as our friend above (xtrajack) exemplifies two locks are better than one.

Respectfully
Jack

The problem with Sheldon's method is that it doesn't look secure. Some thief will think, "that sucker only locked the wheel so I take the rest of the bike" and by the time thief realizes that the bike can't be taken by just releasing the wheel, you bike will be in pieces.

My thoughts exactly. The last thing you want is for some would-be thief to remove your wheel, then hastily put it back on once he realizes that he can't take the bicycle. Do you think he'll have the courtesy to properly tighten your wheel after quickly slipping it back into place?

This actually happened to a friend of mine: he noticed that someone had tried to take his bicycle, but only managed to cut through one of his two locks. Unfortunately my friend failed to give his bicycle a proper looking-over before riding away, and wound up hitting the pavement hard when his front wheel, presumably loosened by the thief, came off on a speed bump.

Surely if you want to minimise the chance of a jack being able to open up the lock, you should lock the frame because it would be easier to get a smaller gap between it and whatever your locking it to.

If I can, I will lock the rear wheel and the frame, but unfountunally (well, from that point of view anyways) the gap between the two is quite large, so I rarely can.

This actually happened to a friend of mine: he noticed that someone had tried to take his bicycle, but only managed to cut through one of his two locks. Unfortunately my friend failed to give his bicycle a proper looking-over before riding away, and wound up hitting the pavement hard when his front wheel, presumably loosened by the thief, came off on a speed bump.
You have to be careful about the bike being tampered with in any event. When we were in college my wife had an inexpensive bike that used wingnuts to fasten the wheels. We had left the bikes locked up with a cable that secured the wheels and frame, but when we started to ride off we discovered that someone had stolen the wingnuts. They weren't worth much but I guess someone wanted them - and it could have led to a crash if unnoticed, esp. if they had only taken the front ones.

If you think you can get through rim/tire/chain in under a minute, I'm guessing you haven't tried. Hacksawing is a PITA.

But more generally, there are two types of thieves:
1) Guy walking by who has the idea to steal a bike when he sees yours. Almost any lock will deter this guy provided it requires bulky tools to defeat and secures the frame (directly or by Sheldons method)
2) Guy who has the idea to steal a bike when he leaves his house. You will never completely defeat this guy with the might of your lock. You might make things enough more inconvenient for him relative to the value of the bike he'll get that he'll look for easier prey. This is the basis of Sheldon's method. It lets you use a smaller mini-lock so jacking it open is harder, and destroying the back wheel destroys too much of the bikes value.

Finally, if that's your bike in the picture, quit worrying. Guy 1 might steal for sport, but as noted, any lock will do. Guy 2 steals for money, and that bike isn't worth any.

jackklas:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=520597

But more generally, there are two types of thieves:
1) Guy walking by who has the idea to steal a bike when he sees yours. Almost any lock will deter this guy provided it requires bulky tools to defeat and secures the frame (directly or by Sheldons method)
2) Guy who has the idea to steal a bike when he leaves his house. You will never completely defeat this guy with the might of your lock. You might make things enough more inconvenient for him relative to the value of the bike he'll get that he'll look for easier prey. This is the basis of Sheldon's method. It lets you use a smaller mini-lock so jacking it open is harder, and destroying the back wheel destroys too much of the bikes value.

I'd say there are three:

1. Opportunistic (#1). Any cheap cable or Walmart U-lock will prevent it.

2. Crackheads (typically carry one type of manual lockbreaking tool such as pry bar, jack, bolt cutters). Onguard Bulldog, Krypto Evo, or better.

3. Pros (van with power tools, sorta like #2) NYFU might buy you some time, possibly making the thief reconsider, but if your bike is chosen it's still gone.

I don't use Sheldon's method. I suspect that if I do, some moron will inevitably try to pull my rear wheel through my frame and trash my bike in the process.

I use two locks (albeit on a crappy-looking but awesomely upgraded '78 Record Ace) - one is a long-shackle OnGuard Mini. The shackle is juuust long enough to go around my front wheel, frame and locking post at the train station (or signpost), with no room front-to-back with all that stuff, and because it's a mini, no room side-to-side, either, to slip in a bottle jack. It's got a $1200 guarantee, so a set of bolt-cutters isn't going to work against that kind of steel. Angle grinder or nuthin', and the paranoid TSA cops at the train station aren't likely to let that sort of action go unnoticed.

Out back, I use one of these (http://www.dactec.com/store/detail346d.html?cart=11939422431395&sku=CL_551&itemCategory=firearm) that I got from Walmart on clearance for five bucks. Hardened steel, with a (sort of) weatherproof plastic coating. It goes around the rear wheel, one of the seat stays, and my grocery pannier. A big bolt-cutter would probably do the trick, but who wants a 27" wheel and folding pannier that much? (Even if it is a terribly nice 27" alloy rim with a Gatorskinz tire.)

Even if you make your bike sufficiently hard to steal, yes, there will be thieves who will be sophisticated enough to overcome what you put in their path. Here's the deal, tho: they will be very few and very far between, rather than the epidemic of thefts and vandalism we have now.

Originally the UBolt design was intended to lock the frame to BOTH the front wheel and rear wheel by removing the front wheel and placing it alongside the rear and locking both wheels and frame to a post. There was actually made plastic slip on fork protectors for this purpose which unfortunately is no longer available. This method was never discussed by Sheldon which seemed a bit odd since he was old school and should have remembered this being done.

I don't use Sheldon's method. I suspect that if I do, some moron will inevitably try to pull my rear wheel through my frame and trash my bike in the process.

+1

I see what Sheldon was getting at but I'm afraid there are just too many morons who would attempt to cut the rim thinking that it's an easy score. No thanks.

I lock the frame to an immovable object with the best mini u-lock on the market then secure the tires and seat with a thick cable lock. :thumb:

This method was never discussed by Sheldon which seemed a bit odd since he was old school and should have remembered this being done.

He mentions it in passing: "Don't take your bike apart to lock it, it is really bogus." (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html)


I'm not particularly worried about 'moron' thieves who will try and pull my rear wheel thru the frame or hacksaw it. Since I always use the Sheldon method in combo with a cable lock through the frontwheel/frame/rearwheel/post. I figure any appearance of weakness at the rear wheel is countered by the addition of the second lock. Especially considering the bike next to mine at the rack who's locked by the front qr wheel only.

I really have no choice but to lock my rear wheel and front wheel together because my mini lock doesn't go around my seat tube and rear wheel. And I will not use a bigger lock in most places around here. So unless I have 2 locks with then I lock my wheels.

but I have to say, locking my front and rear wheel together sure makes my bike look a lot more secure than the other bikes on the rack. I think the thieves will be more likely to try and take the other bikes.

He mentions it in passing: "Don't take your bike apart to lock it, it is really bogus." (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html)


.

First off he's wrong, it wasn't bogus, it made stealing the bike hard more difficult, and whats so hard about removing a front quick release wheel? This was how the UBolt was originally was intended to be used, but over the years people became lazy, and the UBolt companies recognized this and so did Sheldon.

best mini u-lock on the market

Fahgeddaboudit is a mini lock.

Just saying. :D

Fahgeddaboudit is a mini lock.

Just saying. :D

Not quite... NYFU is bit too large to really be considered a true mini u-lock and bit too small to be a standard u-lock, IMHO. It's stuck in between so your use of "mini" to describe the NYFU is iffy. And on top of that, that beast weighs more than most standard, solid FULL-SIZED heavy duty u-locks so it's not very practical in most cases.

Don't get me wrong; that thing is a beast but it's just too heavy for my tastes... But if that's what gets your whistle wet then by all means go for it. :thumb:

I did endless amounts of research after my last bike was stolen the day after Xmas. (Trust me, the last thing I wanted as another bike stolen!!!) I considered the NYFU but decided on the Evolution Mini as the best combination of small size (to ward off leverage attacks) and weight (to ward off back problems, lol). :lol:

;)

I'd say there are three:

1. Opportunistic (#1). Any cheap cable or Walmart U-lock will prevent it.

2. Crackheads (typically carry one type of manual lockbreaking tool such as pry bar, jack, bolt cutters). Onguard Bulldog, Krypto Evo, or better.

3. Pros (van with power tools, sorta like #2) NYFU might buy you some time, possibly making the thief reconsider, but if your bike is chosen it's still gone.

I agree with the 3!

First off he's wrong, it wasn't bogus, it made stealing the bike hard more difficult, and whats so hard about removing a front quick release wheel? This was how the UBolt was originally was intended to be used, but over the years people became lazy, and the UBolt companies recognized this and so did Sheldon.

This is what I believe is ultimately the safest method, so what if it takes a few extra minutes?

Respectfully
Jack

Originally Posted by: Rustyoldbikes on Forum “Have you had a bike stolen while using a high end lock?

“One of the advantages of putting a tough lock, such as the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit, around the rear wheel of a bike, and NOT around the frame, is that it makes the crooks's job a bit harder. Many, or most "official" bike racks are easier to defeat than the Fahgettaboudit lock. If someone locks the frame of their bike to a flimsy "official" bike rack, the crook can break/cut/disassemble the rack, and ride away on the bike. By putting the lock around the rear wheel, even if the crook breaks the rack, he must defeat the lock before he can ride the bike.
.
I don't like bike racks. I like the traditional parking meters with the steel post set in concrete. If a crook attacks a parking meter, the slightly smarter ones understand they are no longer just stealing a bike, they are vandalizing public property, which is a felony is most places.

A funny thing that I see downtown is that someone will CORRECTLY lock up a $200 bike...a beefy u-lock connecting the rear wheel to a parking meter. Then I see a $1,000 bike with just its front wheel attached to a flimsy "official" bike rack with only cable lock...a gift for any crook with a $10 tool in his pocket.”

Another argument for the brown method.

Respectfully
Jack

A Method I Like-

Straight from NY one of the bike thief capitals of the world- after the UK of course.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3096/3613857393_be23d3b9ba.jpg

Respecfully
Jack

Not quite... NYFU is bit too large to really be considered a true mini u-lock and bit too small to be a standard u-lock, IMHO. It's stuck in between so your use of "mini" to describe the NYFU is iffy. And on top of that, that beast weighs more than most standard, solid FULL-SIZED heavy duty u-locks so it's not very practical in most cases.

Don't get me wrong; that thing is a beast but it's just too heavy for my tastes... But if that's what gets your whistle wet then by all means go for it. :thumb:

I did endless amounts of research after my last bike was stolen the day after Xmas. (Trust me, the last thing I wanted as another bike stolen!!!) I considered the NYFU but decided on the Evolution Mini as the best combination of small size (to ward off leverage attacks) and weight (to ward off back problems, lol). :lol:

;)


Don't get me wrong I like the Kryptonite Evolution because its lighter than the Fahgettaboutit U-Lock. However, in my mind what makes a lock a mini lock is whether or not a battle jack can fit in the space of the U. So far I have never seen a bottle jack that can fit in the space of the Fahgettaboutit U-Lock, especially when it is filled with a bike and a poll. Thus, I would say that the Fahgettaboutit is a mini U-Lock, and not only that, it is the most secure lock on the market.

Respecfully
Jack

First off he's wrong...

Blasphemy! Master Sheldon can never be wrong!


I think the added security of removing your front wheel is academic at best, considering all the bikes at the rack next to mine held on by cheap cables with a masterlock combo lock...
The tradeoff of having to take off my wheel and scratch my forks vs the added security isn't enough of a difference for me to bother with it.

Blasphemy! Master Sheldon can never be wrong!


I think the added security of removing your front wheel is academic at best, considering all the bikes at the rack next to mine held on by cheap cables with a masterlock combo lock...
The tradeoff of having to take off my wheel and scratch my forks vs the added security isn't enough of a difference for me to bother with it.

Not disagreeing with what you said especially if you live in a low to medium risk area. As far as the scratched fork problem that was why they use to have fork protectors. This will make you laugh, but I don't use a U-bolt and never have thus don't remove the front wheel; I use a thick cable with a Abus Discus lock...AND THAT'S IT!!! It's the same locking system I've had since 1978!!! And none of my bikes were ever stolen, including while living in Los Angeles, and including using it to lock my second bike outside of my apartment because I didn't have space inside for 2 bikes. Yet I've known people who got their bikes stolen with fancier locks. In general though I don't lock my bike outside unless I'm going in to get something quick.

I really have no choice but to lock my rear wheel and front wheel together because my mini lock doesn't go around my seat tube and rear wheel. And I will not use a bigger lock in most places around here. So unless I have 2 locks with then I lock my wheels.

but I have to say, locking my front and rear wheel together sure makes my bike look a lot more secure than the other bikes on the rack. I think the thieves will be more likely to try and take the other bikes.

Not only does this method deter thieves, but I believe that it also deters from vandalism. The reason I believe this is because most vandals are kids and they really don't want to mess with a bike that already looks like its in pieces- to these kids it even looks broken. This really is the best method. The only thing we have to deal with is the forks.

Respecfully
Jack

http://www.cicle.org/cicle_content/images/u_lock.jpg

A Few Lock Combinations or Pairing Techniques for Greater Security:

The best advice is to never leave a bike outside where it can be stolen. However, some of us must commute, so we can ride cheap bikes that ride well, which is a great idea- or we can use locks. Two locks are better than one. Here are a few combos I like.

Note: all of these combos effectively have the same strategy, to secure the frame and back rim with the U-Lock through a post and then secure the front tire, frame and crank through a post.

Combo 1. A Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit Mini Bicycle U-Lock paired with a Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit chain.


http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245618037&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245618037&sr=8-1)

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Chain-Disc/dp/B000LPJQZ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1245618037&sr=8-2 (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Chain-Disc/dp/B000LPJQZ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1245618037&sr=8-2)

I would call this the most secure combo on the planet- as well as the heaviest!
Now, the reality of someone actually using this combo is probably pretty slim, but if you are in need of some “serious” piece of mind, this ought to do the trick. That is, if you don’t mind carrying around about 20 pounds. I admit, this is overkill, but who can argue that it wouldn’t be secure? Not full proof- as no lock is full-proof, but secure in the sense that it will not only deter a thief, but also prohibit most thieves from being able to take your bike. It was take some serious time and tools to crack this combo.


Combo 2. A Kryptonite Evolution Mini Series 4 U-Lock coupled with a Kryptonite New York Chain with EV Series 4 Disc Lock


http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-U-Lock-x-5-5/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=acc_glance_sg_ai_-1_1_tit (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-U-Lock-x-5-5/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=acc_glance_sg_ai_-1_1_tit)

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Chain-Disc-Lock/dp/B001B16394/ref=pd_sbs_sg_33 (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Chain-Disc-Lock/dp/B001B16394/ref=pd_sbs_sg_33)


This is actually a great method, not to mention practical. The total weight should not exceed much more than 10 pounds. Of course, it is not as secure as the first combo, but it is really a better combo for those who are not so obsessed with security. If I was locking up a 10 thousand dollar bike I wouldn’t pick this method, but for all other purposes it’s a winner. It’s cheaper lighter, and very effective. Good luck breaking this without lots of time and power tools.


Combo 3. A Kryptonite New York Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Bracket ( 4-Inch x 8-Inch) coupled with the OnGuard 5022C Mastiff Chain Bicycle Lock (85cm x 8mm)


http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-U-Lock-Bracket/dp/B000BS0D4Y/ref=pd_sbs_auto_9 (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-U-Lock-Bracket/dp/B000BS0D4Y/ref=pd_sbs_auto_9)

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-5022C-Mastiff-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B00186CEG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245619305&sr=1-3 (http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-5022C-Mastiff-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B00186CEG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245619305&sr=1-3)

The beauty of this combo is that you don’t have to carry two sets of keys. The Kryptonite U-Lock secures your frame and back tire while the Onguard combination lock secures your front tire and frame. An added bonus is that the 8inch U-Lock leaves more room to work with just be sure to fill up the space! You can fill the remainder of the space with your crank if need be. I really like this combination. Of course, a combination-lock does not provide as much security, but the main purpose in this set up is just to secure the front wheel. I am really not too worried about it. One might also mention that this is actually quite affordable. The Kryptonite lock is only 58.00 dollars from Amazon and shipping is included.


Combo 4. For those on the lighter side of things, a Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 U-Lock 3 x 5.5 coupled with the OnGuard 5022C Mastiff Chain Bicycle Lock (85cm x 8mm)

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-U-Lock-x-5-5/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_sbs_sg_4 (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-U-Lock-x-5-5/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_sbs_sg_4)

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-5022C-Mastiff-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B00186CEG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245619305&sr=1-3 (http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-5022C-Mastiff-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B00186CEG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245619305&sr=1-3)

This is a much lighter and more economical combo, but don’t be fooled, it offers great security. Again, is has the benefit of only needing one set of keys.


Combo 5. A Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit Mini Bicycle U-Lock paired with the OnGuard 5022C Mastiff Chain Bicycle Lock (85cm x 8mm)

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245618037&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245618037&sr=8-1)

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-5022C-Mastiff-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B00186CEG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245619305&sr=1-3 (http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-5022C-Mastiff-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B00186CEG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1245619305&sr=1-3)

This (and the Evolution mini U-lock with the Evolution chain are my personal favorites) but don’t forget that the Fahgettaboutit U-lock is quite heavy as well as expensive. However, this set makes a great combo- good luck penetrating the Fahgettaboutit U-lock. Again, we only have to carry one key.

You will notice that I did not pair any larger U-Locks, the reason for this is that you have to fill up all that extra space or else a bottle jack can crack the U-lock.

Now having mentioned some combos that allow you to keep your front rim attached to the bike- the proper way to lock a bike is to take off the front wheel and place it next to the back wheel, then insert a U-Lock through the frame, poll and both rims, and for this you only need the right sized U-Lock (see above photo). In the end it all depends upon how much weight you want to carry, how much money you want to spend and how much security you think you need to foster piece of mind.

Respectfully
Jack