Bicycle Mechanics - Dishing wheel

when you dish your rear wheel to make the rim sit evenly within your dropouts do you actually get it to sit evenly or do you just get it close?

Do you tighten the opposing spokes much?

Everything has its acceptible tolerance. Barnett uses a value of 2mm. In other words if the rim is offset less then 2mm from the perfect center it is acceptible. I'm sure one could set the dish more precisely but why? What is the benefit? There is a cost to any level of precision either in dollars or time.

I get it pretty close. I wouldn't be happy with a wheel dish that was 2 mm off. I'm thinking that 1 mm is a little more like it.

I think that it's best to sneak up on fine adjustments like final wheel dishing. Assuming the wheel is true and round to begin with, I tighten all of the spokes on the side I want to pull the rim over to by 1/4 turn and loosen all of the spokes on the other side an equal amount. If you adjust every spoke an equal amount, it won't affect the trueness or roundness of the wheel.

0.5 mm

Rear wheel dishing and final lateral truing should be done with the tire and tube fully inflated. The asymmetrical spoke tension causes the rim to move laterally with the change in air pressure.

Al

I say 1mm but I don't have any claim to authority.

I wonder if Barnett is saying 2mm or a calls for a maximum 2mm gap shown by a dishing tool.

within 1mm each way off of center.

did you respace your hub or what?

"did you respace your hub or what?"

actually my chain was popping off my cassette for 1 ride home when i shifted to my lowest gear. It happened 3 times on my way home and each time it popped off it would get stuck between my cassette and hub and i would grind (literally) to a stop. All the outside spokes on the cassette side were broken or about to break to I had to replace them all.

"did you respace your hub or what?"

actually my chain was popping off my cassette for 1 ride home when i shifted to my lowest gear. It happened 3 times on my way home and each time it popped off it would get stuck between my cassette and hub and i would grind (literally) to a stop. All the outside spokes on the cassette side were broken or about to break to I had to replace them all.

That's not a dishing problem, but a rear derailleur low limit screw adjustment...you need to make sure the low limit screw allows shifting to the lowest gear (largest cog) without going over...

That's not a dishing problem, but a rear derailleur low limit screw adjustment...you need to make sure the low limit screw allows shifting to the lowest gear (largest cog) without going over...

I'm sure the op realizes that it's not a dishing problem. He's asking a dishing question since he needs to replace all spokes on the drive side.

:)

I'm sure the op realizes that it's not a dishing problem. He's asking a dishing question since he needs to replace all spokes on the drive side.

:)

Re-read the post and the quote it refers to...I understand dishing well...

I'm building my first rear wheel now. I established the proper dish early on, after taking up the slack and initial truing. I'll finish the wheel, note the dish position according to the Park stand's calipers, then install the tube, tire, inflate, and see if or where things move.