Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - The Century bike optimized for speed

If you really want to change things up to make the differences worth having another bike, you could look at a recumbent. From your OP, you said you were looking for a comfortable position and better ride quality. A recumbent offers both of those. You also said you were looking to optimize century rides and quick group rides. The right recumbent will do that too.

As non-scientific support of this, I recently (about a month ago) bought a Bacchetta Corsa aluminum framed recumbent. For rides on the same route, in roughly similar conditions, I find that I'm 2-3 mph faster on average than I was on my road bike. I understand that there is an adjustment period since recumbents use slightly different muscles, so that figure could continue to change over the next few months. My roadie is no slouch either, so I can't contribute it to better wheels, etc.

Bear in mind though, that I'm riding in Texas with not a lot of hills, so ymmv. Also, if you ride in a group a lot, some groups are less recumbent friendly than others. I've found my Rando group to be very open to them. Who knows, you might find that you ride right off the front of the group that you're used to riding with too.

Don't get me wrong, my roadie won't be going up for sale any time soon. But then again, neither will my 'bent.

Steve

If you really want to change things up to make the differences worth having another bike, you could look at a recumbent...

I think you may be right about this. I am also about 2 weeks into a similar experiment as you with a used Bacchetta Ti Aero. I think the major problem with a 'bent relative to uprights is social. Its performance is out-of-sync with upright bikes in a manner similar to a tandem's. Okay on the uphills but hard to keep up with on the downhills and flats. Plus, doesn't leave much of a shadow to draft behind.

I've decided that my current bike is about all I need for now.

But, I'll continue to seek improvements. I'm installing a road triple. I'd like to install some HED Ardennes wheels, but that won't happen this year.

I may seek out a training coach in the spring. It's all about the motor.

Michael

I think the message title mis-states the OP's goals. Most of the discussion here has centered on what constitutes the best compromise between comfort and speed for a century bike. The title asks what bike, optimized for speed alone. To answer that you might look at what Alberto, Lance, and the gang ride. I believe they ride some fairly fast centuries. Once you throw comfort into the mix, there is no "best" answer as it becomes subject to your own tolerance for discomfort. There are lots of replies here to suggest where that compromise might lie, weighted by the posters' own preferences. In the end, it's a compromise you'll have to make for yourself, but a compromise it will be.

In fairness to all the replies, they are giving you good advice: compromising a little (tires, geometry, perhaps saddle) can go a long way to making a fast century bike that is not torturous to ride again and again. And I doubt you (OP) really are looking for a bike optimized for speed, but for suitability, instead.

[My own compromise is a Specialized Roubaix with 25 mm tires and a 30-year-old leather saddle.]

In fairness to all the replies, they are giving you good advice: compromising a little (tires, geometry, perhaps saddle) can go a long way to making a fast century bike that is not torturous to ride again and again. And I doubt you (OP) really are looking for a bike optimized for speed, but for suitability, instead.

[My own compromise is a Specialized Roubaix with 25 mm tires and a 30-year-old leather saddle.]

Well said. There may not be one "optimized" bike in any case. On a flat century, a tt or bent will be faster than a traditional road bike. But a road bike would be faster once climbs & decents are a primary factor.

A Specialized Roubaix with 25 mm tires and a 30-year-old leather saddle sounds close to ideal, IMO.

Michael

I’m reviving this year-old thread, since I may have the answer to my own question.

Back in January, I found a new made-by-Lynskey titanium frame on ebay for less than $670 and decided I would build a faster bike than my faithful Soma Double Cross. The frame was built by Lynskey for Planet X, a British bike company. The size and geometry was right and I knew I could build a sub-19 pound road-bike that would be far stiffer than my steel Cyclocross bike.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll210/wildcat-bucket/2010bikepictures009.jpg

I selected 6600 Ultegra SL for the brakes and for the compact crankset, I also use a 105 standard crankset on this bike. An Ultegra 6603 rear derailleur, 105 front derailleur and Shimano non-series STI Brifters would round-out the build. The fit would use tried-and-true Look pedals, FSA Compact handlebars and a new Brooks Professional saddle.

Has the titanium frame road-bike improved my long distance cycling substantially over the steel framed Cyclocross bike? Yes, but not in any radical way. The slightly lighter weight and stiffer construction of the titanium bike improves climbing and sprinting, but makes very little difference on flat roads over larger distances. I do feel more confident in a group ride, and have substantually improved my acceleration and climbing, but part of this is the training I’ve established for myself this year.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll210/wildcat-bucket/DairylandDare-JC-0194.jpg

I’m faster this year, but I’ve improved my speed on all my bikes. I have a 19 mile loop that has just two traffic lights, and the Cyclocross bike is within 3 minutes of my best time on the titanium road-bike, less than a 5% difference. As is often said, it’s the motor that matters.

The Cyclocross is more versatile. It can carry more water & gear. The titanium bike does not have attachment points for racks or fenders, an important limitation. I like using the Cyclocross bike for unsupported solo century rides, I can go 100 miles with just one stop for water and I can carry a day’s worth of food. The titanium road-bike provides a psychological boost when riding with faster friends or on hilly event rides with rest stops. It’s also important to have more than one bike when riding often, it helps avoid down time if one bike is out-of-commission.

A time trial bike would have provided a sharp improvement in speed, I’m discovering. I rode several long rides with riders on TT bikes, and keeping up with cyclist using TT bikes on the straight & flat roads that are common here in the Midwest is a real chore.

If seeking greater speed, improve your training effectiveness and fuel & hydration patterns. The human motor is always the greatest determinant of cycling performance.

I'll spare you the training advice, because I think you already know the engine matters most. But putting that aside, at speeds above 18 mph, aerodynamics rule. Get aero or go slow. Frame stiffness and light weight matter too, but they only trump aero on fairly hilly courses. All IMO, of course.