Bicycle Mechanics - Removing Crank Bros Pedals.

I started biking again like 2 months ago, and I got new pedals with a set a strapless toe clips. I'm trying to remove the Crank Bros pedals but I don't understand why these damn things are so tight. Correct me if I'm wrong but as far as I understand it's not possible to remove them with a wrench since they don't have the flats, instead I have to use a Allen Wrench to loosen them from the opposite side. It's also confusing bc most online instructions tell you to go clockwise and anticlockwise but they refer to pedals with the wrench flats, and I don't know if it's the same for me since I'm working from the opposite side. I tried both ways but this damn thing is not even moving a millimeter. Any suggestions?

yup, you have to use the allen wrench from the opposite side. make sure that you're turning the right way, always up and to the rear.

Ok, so just to confirm. That means that I'm going to be rotating it counterclockwise on both pedals.

Also, any ideas as to how loosen it up. I'm sweating and this thing is still not coming off.

Thanks.

Get a decent allen wrench too - either a T handle wrench, a stout L wrench or the right size hex key for your socket drive.

Regardless of how you're approaching the pedal, to loosen, turn the left pedal clockwise and the right pedal counterclockwise.

What I do, (which I think is the same as mr. stinson) is turn each pedal to the rear of the bike to loosen, toward the front to tighten, assuming you're turning from above the bolt, not below it (which is how you'd naturally do it with a bike pedal).

But you'll probably need more than a puny multi tool or cheap allen wrench to do it.

yup, you have to use the allen wrench from the opposite side. make sure that you're turning the right way, always up and to the rear.
Use a long-handle Allen wrench if possible, or put a cheater pipe on an ordinary one. An Allen socket on a breaker bar works well:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/breaker.jpg

I hate this as well, the direction "flips" when going at the pedal it from behind/inside. It will feel as you are tightening the drive side pedal and loosening the non drive side. So looking at the Allen head on the drive side you want to turn it clockwise. While looking at the Allen head on the non drive side you want counter clock. Good luck!

I hate this as well, the direction "flips" when going at the pedal it from behind/inside. It will feel as you are tightening the drive side pedal and loosening the non drive side. So looking at the Allen head on the drive side you want to turn it clockwise. While looking at the Allen head on the non drive side you want counter clock. Good luck!

This is no different than any other screwed fastener in the world, always has been, always will be. A basic fact of mechanical work. You just have to keep in mind what "clockwise" and "counterclockwise" are relative to. They are relative to the object being screwed. With a nut, it's relative to the nut being screwed onto the bolt. With a bolt (like a pedal spindle), it's relative to the bolt being screwed into the hole.

But, the old "toward the rear of the bike" to loosen and "toward the front of the bike" to tighten doesn't matter if you're coming at it from the outside or inside.

I've had some pretty tight pedals, and even with a 12+" long pedal wrench and good wrench flats, they were a bear to remove. You might want to soak that joint with a penetrating oil to chemically loosen the screw. Try to use a good quality hex bit, like the one suggested above with a breaker bar. Don't damage the pedal socket. Also, I find it helpful to wear gloves, so when it does break loose, your hand isn't impaled on the chainring.

When reinstalling the pedals, use plenty of grease on the threads and no ned to use gorilla strength torque. Remember, when pedalling, the rotation is in the direction of tightening.

PS - I wish all pedals have wrench flats.

Just another visualization --

I put the bike on the floor, cranks level, and reach over the bike, putting the pedal I want to remove towards the front. My chest is centered over the top tube.

Put the wrench on the front pedal with one hand, then grab the rear pedal with the other hand. Pull up on both.

This gives a lot of torque. Be aware that the big Allen wrench will be directly below the downtube, too, so be careful about yanking the wrench too far and denting the downtube. However, my hands seem to stay away from the chainrings.

One other way I remember which is which is that I say to myself that "right is right", meaning that the right side "turns the right way" -- righty tighty, lefty loosey. The left side is "wrong", righty loosey lefty tighty. I then imagine myself standing on the side of the bike and pointing a screwdriver into the pedal closest to me, then figuring out how to move the wrench from there.

The top-down method works far quicker for me, though. Pulling up makes it sound like "pulling the pedal off", which is the intended result anyway.

Very true mr.mudpie. That's why its good to be very specific. "While looking at the hex bolt head on, turn clockwise" is very specific, it can get confusing when you turn as hard as you can and it wont budge, you can second guess yourself.

Thank you all for your helpful answer. This is a great website. I just started biking again and by the end of this year I'll move closer to my job and I'll start commuting on my hybrid. Thank you all.

Having done the pedal swap on tandems and my bent or DF I find it easiest to think of the
pedal mount/removal in this way: The pedals go on by turning the pedal in the same direction as the cranks turn when pedaling forward. Removal is by turning the pedal axis in the reverse direction as though turning the cranks backward. Works on both sides.

Thanks everybody. I bought a new Allen wrench from Home Depot and was able to change the pedals after struggling for a few minutes.

Thanks everybody. I bought a new Allen wrench from Home Depot and was able to change the pedals after struggling for a few minutes.

What kind did you buy? The reason I ask is that with a proper tool there should be no significant struggle.

What kind did you buy? The reason I ask is that with a proper tool there should be no significant struggle.



The tool is fine. What I meant to say is that it was really really tight.