Classic & Vintage - Super Course horror...(not for the faint of heart)

I'm normally a fluffer, buffer maybe flipper kind of guy but when I saw this poor thing at a garage sale I just couldn't leave it. It cost less than the eggmcmuffin I ate on the way to finding it. (2 bucks :lol:) It's a total redo for which I'm wholly unqualified but reading some of your restoration stories has given me inspiration!! I'm going to strip this beast down, spend a fortune, and hopefully put it back together. :roflmao2: Here's one that might have a tidbit or two for your database, kurt...may not. Who knows. Wish me luck...

Oh yeah the facts as I know them:
Shimano Crane GS rd
Huret fd
Huret shifters
Weinmann 750 Vainqueur 999 brakes
Lyotard BTE s G D G pedals 136 R&L
GB stem
Stronglight crankset
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/9319/dsc00099xvy.jpg
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2876/dsc00106y.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/5666/dsc00100n.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/129/dsc00105w.jpg

i would probably leave the paint but just clean it up nicely hehe

I was gonna say.. that doesn't look too bad. Then I saw the closeups. Whoa.

I might try to save the original paint too. I would clean it up as best as possible, then maybe put a clearcoat over it.

I dunno, guys...this thing looks aweful. Can I not go back with the original color or is it lost to the history books? Finding script decals might be a challenge as well...hmmm...I can't decide.

Try an oxalic acid soak to remove the rust, then a little rubbing compound to remove the oxidized surface of the paint, and then seal it up right away with wax. You may be pleasantly surprised.

Try an oxalic acid soak to remove the rust, then a little rubbing compound to remove the oxidized surface of the paint, and then seal it up right away with wax. You may be pleasantly surprised.

I'll give it a shot...It certainly has nothing to lose as it is. Thanks. :thumb:

That bike is worth every penny your gonna spend on it.
Mine is almost identical to that, except that I've had a year or two to monkey with it.
The paint is a georgous color but when it's gone, it's gone. It's not like your usual black Raleigh that buffs right out. It's a transperant kind of thing that fades and degrades all the way through.
It's a tough color to find, maybe it was clear grean sprayed over gold?
I've learned to love the odd metalflake camoflage that mine has matured to but I'll probably paint it one of these days.

Here it is;
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll299/sailorbenjamin/IMG_4290.jpg
At last count there were parts from at least 13 bikes and I've spent almost $30 on the project, till day before yesterday when I went out and blew $40 on a pretty Brooks saddle. It broke on the first ride.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll299/sailorbenjamin/IMG_4292.jpg
I put more miles on tis bike, though than all my other bikes put together.
Can you see you the two sides have faded differently from leaning up against a wall for a while?
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll299/sailorbenjamin/IMG_4291.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll299/sailorbenjamin/IMG_4293.jpg
It's beautiful in it's own way. I do wish the chrome were shinier.

BTW, You can get decal sets for these. I forget the place, it's on line though.

Can you see you the two sides have faded differently from leaning up against a wall for a while?


I can...and mine is exactly the same. One side looks green and the other is a little more goldish. :lol:
I'll look for the decals...thanks. If the original color can't be had then perhaps a nice burgandy?

After lunch I'll take some "inspiration" pics of one I've been working on ... ;)

Here's mine, set up as a club-style bike with Sturmey Archer AM 3-speed rear hub. The paint on these frames does polish up remarkably well.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_GmYBBzTzcVQ/Sj06kQSFFMI/AAAAAAAAD2M/b9iFyVvaehQ/s800/SuperCourseAM1.jpg

Neal

After lunch I'll take some "inspiration" pics of one I've been working on ... ;)

Please do...I'm needing it!! What have I stepped into? :eek: I've been letting the chain and cassette soak in liqued wrench since I took these shots, so I just flipped it over and gave it a whirl. To quote Dr. Frankenstien "IT'S ALLLIIIIIVE!!!" It shifted into everything except 1st gear...Amazing.

Here's mine, set up as a club-style bike with Sturmey Archer AM 3-speed rear hub. The paint on these frames does polish up remarkably well.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_GmYBBzTzcVQ/Sj06kQSFFMI/AAAAAAAAD2M/b9iFyVvaehQ/s800/SuperCourseAM1.jpg

Neal

That looks awesome :thumb:...Mine will never look that good without a new paint job.

Please do....
OK, heres the link ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/owhn/sets/72157619926080933/

Someday I'll figure out how to get the pictures to post the way nlerner does. :p

OK, heres the link ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/owhn/sets/72157619926080933/

Someday I'll figure out how to get the pictures to post the way nlerner does. :p


:love::love::love::thumb:

Dr Deltron, because you are okay in my book, here ya go:

BTW, not too shabby!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3607/3644172951_e1ba89bd29_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3573/3644172959_b454ab7ed0_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3644172971_9e083b815b_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3644172977_c880c1c83b_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3625/3644172979_499367d3ef_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/3644172961_d972f91538_b.jpg

I've always thought the green Super Course one of the most beautiful bikes sold. I had serious SC lust in the day. If you can conserve the original paint, you'll like it.

OK, heres the link ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/owhn/sets/72157619926080933/

Yeah, baby...that's what I'm screamin'!! That looks fantastic. :love::D:love: I'm going to start ripping this thing to pieces right now!!! Great job, Doc.:beer:

Could be a great bike to use for transportation and recreation...what it is meant for anyway. Clean everything up (Oxylic acid or whatever), put the chain in a plastic bag and soak it in motor oil, lube everything, probably will need new brake pads & cable housing & bar tape (or those "Nerf" bar covers) and definitely tires (Niagara, Nashbar, etc. have them reasonably priced from about $5 & up). The Carlton brake hood covers might clean up with Simple Green or Comet. Hopefully no hops in the rims...just simple alignment? Cottered cranks OK? You could add a Pleitscher rear carrier (off another bike..."free") , SKS fenders ($20 -$30), and a handlebar bag (Nashbar sometimes has them for $8), if you want to give it a touring look. You could also try putting down a coat of matching auto touch-up paint...GM?... (buy the big can) on the paint...followed by the best clear coat you can buy. If the bike is your size, it is nice to have something short of "perfect" to ride around when it rains, or when you are going to bang it around a bit. Good Luck....nice catch....could sell that all day for $50 as is.

Those grips are super cool, if you don't want 'em and they come off without destruction... let me know.

Could be a great bike to use for transportation and recreation...what it is meant for anyway. Clean everything up (Oxylic acid or whatever), put the chain in a plastic bag and soak it in motor oil, lube everything, probably will need new brake pads & cable housing & bar tape (or those "Nerf" bar covers) and definitely tires (Niagara, Nashbar, etc. have them reasonably priced from about $5 & up). The Carlton brake hood covers might clean up with Simple Green or Comet. Hopefully no hops in the rims...just simple alignment? Cottered cranks OK? You could add a Pleitscher rear carrier (off another bike..."free") , SKS fenders ($20 -$30), and a handlebar bag (Nashbar sometimes has them for $8), if you want to give it a touring look. You could also try putting down a coat of matching auto touch-up paint...GM?... (buy the big can) on the paint...followed by the best clear coat you can buy. If the bike is your size, it is nice to have something short of "perfect" to ride around when it rains, or when you are going to bang it around a bit. Good Luck....nice catch....could sell that all day for $50 as is.

Yeah, the chain is still a little squeaky but getting better. The rimset is mis-matched. The front has a wimpy little thing with one of those uspeakable presta valves. (shutters) I ripped that pos off first thing and stuck the front rim and tire from a Peugeot P8 I've been cleaning up on it. I took it for a spin around the neighborhood as the back tire still holds air...just to get a feel. The fit is good and I like the ride so I'm probably going to go all out on this one. Is the frame Reynolds? There's a crappy Jackson bike registration sticker from the seventies that's permenantly welded on where the Reynolds sticker would be, so I'm not sure. My best guess from researching the net today is that it is a '73ish. The cranks are straight as is the fork, but there is a tiny wop in the big chainring. Also, the front derailleur is bent no end. I think the back just needs a little adjusting. The front still works it's just that it tends to guide the chain right in between the chainrings when coming back down from the big one. It's fine going up. Thanks for the advise...to everyone, btw.

Those grips are super cool, if you don't want 'em and they come off without destruction... let me know.

They are, arn't they?? Let me see how they clean up, and I'll let you know. If they don't look good enough with the new paint I'll pm you. Do you still want them if they're kind of tired?

Here's Neal's old green SC, before he got his new one.
I need to get a new picture of it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/cubtime100/bikestuff/100_0034.jpg

^^^That's gorgeous...those short chome fenders are calling my name. I must acquire a set asap...I just took this thing for another spin around the block. Once I was confident it wasn't going to fly apart on me, I got down on it. This thing launches out of the hole and rides like a dream...cobwebs and all. :lol: I'm loving the fit and after one measly day I can't get enough of this bike. Looks like it's time to start ordering. ;)

Here's a shot of the Crane GS...I cleaned the dirt out of that top allen hole and found a mummyfied insect in there. :twitchy:

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/2702/dsc00103gfn.jpg

The MainTriangle is Renolds 531 straight guage tubing.

You can find those grips at Bicycle Bob's in Portsmouth NH. I just bought the last roll of Hunt Wilde candy red grip tape for an old Schwinn that they had. They still have those short aluminum fenders, too.

I don't have a picture of it at the moment but I have a green Super Course just like all of these. Really is a beautiful bike when the paint is in good condition, I must say! Sadly, it's quite unridable at the moment because the fork is bad (or at least, the LBS said it was probably beyond their means to correct) and one of the crank-pedal connection's threads are stripped. Hopefully I'll be able to get these issues worked out sometime soon. But it sure was zippy when I was still riding it.

I don't have a picture of it at the moment but I have a green Super Course just like all of these. Really is a beautiful bike when the paint is in good condition, I must say! Sadly, it's quite unridable at the moment because the fork is bad (or at least, the LBS said it was probably beyond their means to correct) and one of the crank-pedal connection's threads are stripped. Hopefully I'll be able to get these issues worked out sometime soon. But it sure was zippy when I was still riding it.

Yeah, unfortunately all I've done is zip around on it since yesterday!!! Oh, I switched the saddle mount back to the right position and adjusted the derailleurs but that's it. :rolleyes: All I want to do is ride this bike...even in this heat. I need to put the front rim and tire back on the P8 where it belongs, and start pulling this beast apart. It needs sooo much work and it's not getting it when I'm in the saddle. :lol::speedy::p

The MainTriangle is Renolds 531 straight guage tubing.

You can find those grips at Bicycle Bob's in Portsmouth NH. I just bought the last roll of Hunt Wilde candy red grip tape for an old Schwinn that they had. They still have those short aluminum fenders, too.

Thanks...I thought it was 531 but wasn't positive. I found a retro raliegh page and from the look of there spread sheet it may be a '72 due to the Carlton hood covers. Those fenders are at the TOP of my payday order list so I won't forget...I should order the tires last so I won't be tempted to take shortcuts and start riding before it's done properly. :o:D

Bah, it may be beat, but I'm still jealous. I was looking at a Super Course frame on CL earlier this eve and resisting the urge. Amazing find you got there.

... those short chome fenders are calling my name. I must acquire a set asap...

Just curious, but: why? I mean, I'm totally pro-fender in general, but I always thought those little things are just a waste of time. Do they so something useful, like keep the brakes clean or something?

Just curious, but: why? I mean, I'm totally pro-fender in general, but I always thought those little things are just a waste of time. Do they so something useful, like keep the brakes clean or something?


Not that I'm aware of...They just look cool. :love::D:love: When I'm done this will be a fair weather bike. Fair weather as in it's 77 degrees outside, hasn't rained in 4 days, not a cloud in the sky, 0% humidity kind of fair weather. :lol: It's seen more than it's share of neglect already so I feel like I owe it to her. :)

Just curious, but: why? I mean, I'm totally pro-fender in general, but I always thought those little things are just a waste of time. Do they so something useful, like keep the brakes clean or something?

Since it's my SC with the short fenders, I'll reply. In short (hehe) Yes, they just look cool, with the added benefit of being period correct. The world has figured out that they are next to worthless, so you don't often see them anymore.

I love my Super Course...cottered cranks and all.

I spent some money on this one with new and NOS parts...it still cost much less than a comparable brand new bike. Probably about $400-500 for the build not including the purchase of the bike.
The paint was almost as bad as the OP's example, so I had the neighborhood body shop repaint it...150 bux for them to strip and paint it, I think it looks pretty nice.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=99996&stc=1&d=1238880987
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=99997&stc=1&d=1238881003
way to cross that chain! :rolleyes:
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=99998&stc=1&d=1238881016
Suntour 1st gen Cyclone derailleurs, Lyotard Pedals, Weinmann 750 Vainquer 999 calipers, Cane Creek brake Levers, Nitto noodle bars, VO elkhide wrap. Wheels are new Sun CR-18 700c rims on the original Normandy High-Flange hubs.

The color is Cream..I told them to do it the same color as the Mini Cooper and its pretty close...the camera white balance wasn't set so it looks a little off.

It rides like a dream :love:

I had shorty fenders on it for 1 ride and I hated them...all they did was make noise on my otherwise extremely quiet bike.

Nice thread hijack Craven. :p Looks good.

I have shorties on my Super Course. They do help keep water from splashing up into the steerer, and cut down on what hits the bottom of the saddle. Not good for much more though.

what can I say I'm a sucker for a chance to post pics of my bike :)

what can I say I'm a sucker for a chance to post pics of my bike :)

And I'm grateful!! More desperately needed motivation because MY STEM WON'T COME OUT!!! AAAAHHHHHGGGGHHH!!!. :bang::bang::bang: I took a vacation day from work and finished (well, almost) taking this bike down. I tried the Sheldon method...it's not budging. :notamused: Any hints would be appreciated more than I can say. Other than that, I've come to the moment of truth...the crankset. I'm scared...I admit it. I'm going to have to think about it for a while. In the meantime, I've got parts to clean.

I don't know Sheldon's method off the top of my head, but this worked for me:

loosen the bolt at the top of the stem until its sticking up about 1/4 inch, then whack the bolt with a hammer. One good solid shot and the bolt should drop back down and the stem will come loose. If that doesn't work hit it with penetrating oil, wait a day and try again. If its still stubborn you can remove the handlebars and insert a long bar in their place and use that long arm to try and turn the stem left or right.


Dont fear the crankset. Its not nearly as bad as it seems. Read Sheldon's "Cottered Crank Service" article and take his advice when it comes to hammering out the cotters. Support the Crank from undneath and Hit the cotter as hard as you can, like you're hammering a nail. The hardest part is likely going to be finding a Wrench to fit the Adjustible cup. I had to take a dremel to a Park tool and grind off a couple of the tabs to make one that fit mine.

I don't know Sheldon's method off the top of my head, but this worked for me:

loosen the bolt at the top of the stem until its sticking up about 1/4 inch, then whack the bolt with a hammer. One good solid shot and the bolt should drop back down and the stem will come loose. If that doesn't work hit it with penetrating oil, wait a day and try again.

+1, this has always worked for me.

I don't know Sheldon's method off the top of my head, but this worked for me:

loosen the bolt at the top of the stem until its sticking up about 1/4 inch, then whack the bolt with a hammer. One good solid shot and the bolt should drop back down and the stem will come loose. If that doesn't work hit it with penetrating oil, wait a day and try again. If its still stubborn you can remove the handlebars and insert a long bar in their place and use that long arm to try and turn the stem left or right.


Dont fear the crankset. Its not nearly as bad as it seems. Read Sheldon's "Cottered Crank Service" article and take his advice when it comes to hammering out the cotters. Support the Crank from undneath and Hit the cotter as hard as you can, like you're hammering a nail. The hardest part is likely going to be finding a Wrench to fit the Adjustible cup. I had to take a dremel to a Park tool and grind off a couple of the tabs to make one that fit mine.

Yeah, that's the sheldon method...only it says tap lightly with a feather pillow or whatever...The key word in your post was whack!.:lol: Here I am treating this thing like a piece of bone china...:rolleyes: One good shot and out it came...:D Thank you very much.

So now it's down to just the crankset...I dunno...I'm still scared. :eek: Won't I need some special tools?

glad that worked out :)

first you need to get the cranks off and that means removing the cotters. For that you need your trusty hammer and something to stick underneath the crank to absorb the impact you're gonna deliver to it (preferably a straight piece of tubing like an old MTB handlebar or some plumbing tube or a broomhandle)

Unscrew the little nut on the end of the cotter and again, whack the hammer on the cotter on the threaded side where you took the nut off. Hit it HARD like you're driving a nail in. Repeat until the cotter comes out, or until you bend/break the threads off the cotter.

Some folks will tell you to use a cotter press, which i can't argue against, but the hammer is usually a winner.

It all depends on if anyone ever greased the stem. If they did, tapping the bolt will get it loose.

If not well..... My Falcon's stem was seized bad enough that we ended up cutting it in half and using a section of all thread to tap the wedge out of it's resting place, then we turned the whole thing over and drove the remaining chunk of stem out the top. All the while trying to budge it loose with vice grips.

If it sounds difficult and unpleasant, it sure was. Be kind folks, grease everything!

I also still have the fork from my Volkscycle MK X with half the stem seized in the steerer.

I have a cotter press, It's nice for the sticky ones but I've also used a stout C clamp with a socket wrench for the cotter to fall into. usually worked. The hammer method usually works too. Lot's cheaper.

The little devil on my left shoulder told me to tape it off and start stripping...you'll be riding in no time. The little angel on my right shoulder said you know in your heart there is grease in that BB that is going on 40 years old. It's not like it sounds like a sewing machine when you spin it. The angel was right...it sounds a little dry in there. (as well as the rear hub) So I changed my underwear, ate dinner and summoned up some courage. One pin was missing a nut already and was just in there...I hit it...nothing...I took the nut off of the other side and hit it...bingo. Out it came, no problem. I went back to the other side...whack...nothing...whack!...nothing...whack, whack, whack!!! Nothing...a big fat zero. I bent the pin over a little and the threads are hopelessly screwed. I've got liqued wrench soaking in it and now it's time to change underwear again. Please tell me I've got a way out of this. Thanks...

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6479/dsc00124mfd.jpg

The cassette's cleaning up better than I'd thought it would and even the Suntour dork disc turned out well. It's not in the least bit brittle...shock. It's dry in that hub though. I'm ordering new rims on payday so It'll be a little while before the switch-over.

Alright, I just tryed the C clamp and socket trick...bent it even worse. Lovely...It's looking like I'll have to cut it off as close as possible and try a hammer and punch? Oh well...I'm done for the day. Let me know what ya'll think. Thanks again.

Yes you are on the right track. give it some liquid wrench and leave it overnight and try another few shots at it tomorrow, you'll ether bend the cotter and break it off or it'll come out. If it breaks off go with the hammer and punch. It will come out.

Don't throw out the old cotters. You might want them to check against the new ones.

Gotcha...thanks. This is my first tear down, so I appreciate your patience. I love this bike and want to know everything there is to know about it. I'm not a natural mechanic though. Lord only knows what surprises await me in that bottom bracket. :lol: Good night and thanks again.

You can drill those cotter pins out pretty easily, They're not hardened or anything. Start with a little bitty drill, then a little bigger drill. When you get to about half the diameter of the cotter, it will usually tap out then.