Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - Surly Cross Check - Help with touring build

I would like to build up my Surly Cross Check to a light to mid touring machine. I currently have the Surly standard build with a double ring up front and 9-speed out back with STI shifters. I want to change to mountain riser bars, touring-quality triple cranks and trigger shifters. Any suggestions on what parts would be the most rugged without really high$$$$?

Its not ideal to put risers on a road style bike due to the short top tube, the position will be very upright, mtbs and flat bar hybrids will have longer top tubes than a road/cross bike. esp with risers the position will not be ideal for touring, also the number of hand positions with drops is great for touring, i'd never ever use flats or risers again.

FWIW, I did the following to kit out my CC for touring.

• add a 3rd ring to the stock crank (it can take a triple)
- this required a different bottom bracket and FD, which the LBS swapped at no charge at time of purchase
• put an 11-34 cassette on (some sort of Deore)
• put a Deore XT rear derailleur on, to handle the wider cassette
• swapped out the brakes for Avid Shorty 4's
• added fenders & racks
• got a Brooks saddle
• added Fizik Bar-Gels to the handlebars

I second the notion that flat bars are less than ideal for touring and/or long rides, and bar-end shifters work pretty well (especially with triples). Are you just trying to get a more upright position?

Bacciagalupe Thanks! Yeah I'd like a more upright position. I've never liked drop bars (I guess a lifetime of mountain biking would be the reason!) and have heard of a few other options since risers seem to be universally disliked. On One Mary bars seem to be recommended? I like your power train options. Would you recommend XT trigger shifters with the new XT rear derailleur and stock front if using non-drop bars?

I don't have any experience with trigger shifters, so I don't really know what's compatible. I assume it should be fine, at least they've got to be better than grip shifters. If you need to replace the brake levers, make sure they're compatible with the canti brakes.

If you're going to swap out the shifters anyway, trekking bars are probably the easiest way to get the upright position while getting a large number of hand positions.

FWIW, I did the following to kit out my CC for touring.

• add a 3rd ring to the stock crank (it can take a triple)
- this required a different bottom bracket and FD, which the LBS swapped at no charge at time of purchase
• put an 11-34 cassette on (some sort of Deore)
• put a Deore XT rear derailleur on, to handle the wider cassette
• swapped out the brakes for Avid Shorty 4's
• added fenders & racks
• got a Brooks saddle
• added Fizik Bar-Gels to the handlebars

I second the notion that flat bars are less than ideal for touring and/or long rides, and bar-end shifters work pretty well (especially with triples). Are you just trying to get a more upright position?

Did the stock bar ends handle the change to the triple and still index?
What size small ring did you add?
This all sounds like something my wife might want to do with her much-loved cross check she has set up as her commuter.

I was looking at the spec for the cross check at the Surly site,
it says it uses bar end shifters. If your bike has STI you would hate
to give them up for trigger shifters.

There are lots of potential problems converting to flat bars
and trigger shifters.

1. Trigger shifters have no trim adjustment, the front shifter
is optimized for MTB cranks, usually 24/32/44 rings. You may
have to change the crank set to a MTB style and then have to
fiddle with getting a good chainline. A new BB to match the
new MTB crank will probably be needed. Another issue with
MTB cranks is they often have different Q angles (wider apart)
than road cranks, I know this is a problem for my knees.

2. Current front and rear derailleurs may not work with the new setup,
the amount of chain wrap and capacity needed will have to be thought out
and this all depends on your gearing choice. Surly site indicates front
derailure is for a double, it may also work for a triple.

3. New bars will have to match the size stem you have and you may
have to change it as well to adjust your reach and or height


If you have a good LBS or can figure things out everything is doable
just beware of the potential drawbacks.

For the cheapest fix to help you feel more comfortable on the bike.
I would change the stem to one with more rise putting the bars higher.
Adding a third granny gear to the existing crank will give you lower gears,
make sure it fits the existing derailleur capacity. If you do presently have
STI this will not work but with bar end shfters it will. You may have to
change the bottom bracket but the Surly site says they use 113mm and this
may work ok.