Mountain Biking - Looking to upgrade 09 Marlin Disc to hydraulic brakes

As the title says, 2009 Gary Fisher Marlin Disc, stock comes with Avid mechanical brakes and I hate them, not enough stopping power. I'm looking to upgrade to hydraulic and not sure where to start. Looking for input.

http://www.backcountryoutlet.com/outlet/SHI0250/Shimano-America-Shimano-LX-Hydraulic-Brake-Lever-and-Caliper-kit.html

There's also the possibility the brakes are fine and it's your setup that's off. What kind of riding do you do? What levers are you using with the brakes? What's not performing up to snuff? Did you bed the pads to the rotors yet?

Well I use Avid Juicy Sevens which I love. Feel great.

Your Avid mechanical disc must not be adjusted correctly because they are a pretty good brake.

I do different types of riding. From roads to and from work to paved bike paths and tight winding single track even some urban free ride type stuff. When I got the bike I made a series of stops gradually getting harder and at this point I probably have 100 miles on the bike so I think they are bedded and broken in by this point. The LBS I bought it from has free lifetime gear and brake adjustments, I've taken it to them twice to adjust the brakes already and this latest time I'm done it myself. The brakes work fine under almost all conditions, during normal riding anyway. Very steep stuff is when they feel sub par. For example riding down about roughly 15 step concrete stairway the brakes didn't have the power to control speed as much as I wanted them to. The brakes wont lock up the rear wheel on pavement and the front wont grab hard enough to pull the rear wheel up. I can be sitting at a stop with brakes applied and give a good push off on the ground and it will move the wheel. Obviously I'm looking to skid all over the place and pull endos but I remember being able to lock up the rear wheel at will with V-brakes on a cheap bike. I'm know part of it is the leverage advantage of V brakes on the wheel as oposide to the very small by caparision size of the disc.

I'm happy with everything about the bike except the braking ability.

When you pull the brake lever (and can push and move the wheel...) is it going all the way to the handlebar?

It sounds like one of three things:

A) You're really weak and just can't pull the levers hard enough (hard to imagine, you'd have to have the hand strength of a 5 year old girl or something).

B) your levers have a leverage adjustment that has been adjusted the wrong way

C) the travel is wrong somehow and the lever is going to the handlebars and not engaging the brakes fully.


No decent shop would let you ride the bike if it is as bad as you say. You either have a crappy shop, or are confused about something.

Yeah dude. My buddy just put Avid BB5's on his Marlin, and they lock up the rear wheel with no problem. The front wheel brakes MUCH harder than the V-brakes on my Cannondale and would flip you over the handlebars if you aren't careful. I can guarantee that the brakes aren't adjusted properly, or you're doing it wrong.

When you pull the brake lever (and can push and move the wheel...) is it going all the way to the handlebar?

It sounds like one of three things:

A) You're really weak and just can't pull the levers hard enough (hard to imagine, you'd have to have the hand strength of a 5 year old girl or something).

B) your levers have a leverage adjustment that has been adjusted the wrong way

C) the travel is wrong somehow and the lever is going to the handlebars and not engaging the brakes fully.


No decent shop would let you ride the bike if it is as bad as you say. You either have a crappy shop, or are confused about something.


A- I'm 6'2" 190 lbs with 10% body fat, I take care of myself and I work out regularly, strength to pull the brake lever is not an issue.

B- I don't see any leverage adjustment, just a little adjuster not sure what or where the leverage adjustment is.

C- That was a problem the first time after the initial break in, during the 30 day inspection they realigned the caliper so it wasn't bending the brake rotor, and they adjusted it so you the lever didn't hit the grip when fully applied.

A- I'm 6'2" 190 lbs with 10% body fat, I take care of myself and I work out regularly, strength to pull the brake lever is not an issue.

B- I don't see any leverage adjustment, just a little adjuster not sure what or where the leverage adjustment is.

C- That was a problem the first time after the initial break in, during the 30 day inspection they realigned the caliper so it wasn't bending the brake rotor, and they adjusted it so you the lever didn't hit the grip when fully applied.

A- good for you

B- Leverage adjustment is called speed dial on Avid levers, Shimano levers have either removable blocks or a barrel screw adjustment (or don't have it at all). What levers do you have?

C- Since only one pad moves (the outboard one) it's inevitable that the rotor has to bend a bit to hit the inboard pad. The shop's adjustments aren't necessarily correct. Read the Avid setup instructions, it's not rocket science.

yea i had bb5 of my rockerhopper omp and the front would endo no prblem even if not fully adjusted, and the back looks up if u barely squzze the lever. my bb7s r much more powerfull now. but if the dude wnan go waste money on hyrdos let him. elixers r the way to go!! better yet get the new sram xx group and brakes when it comes out. ud def have to much braking power then ;)

If he's dead set on going to hydros you can get just about any of the juicy's for a decent price since this is going to be the last year for them. I'm happy with the juicy 5's that came on my rig even if they are a bit noisy.