progre-ss
06-22-04, 03:34 PM
I acquired a Brooks B17 saddle today and other than being all moldy, it seems to be in pretty good condition. Other than wiping the mold off, is there anything else I can do to restore it? Can the mold affect the leather in any way structurally?
I don't know about the mold affecting the structure, I believe it grows on the surface.
I seem to recall that vinegar will kill the mold (not sure what that will do to leather).
As to reconditioning an old brooks here's some advice I received when I asked the
same question on Classic Rendezvous:
I've faced this problem recently with a couple dried out saddles, one
Wrights and one Brooks, and got them both into reasonable shape. Here's
what I did, at least; I won't claim it's the ultimate, but it worked for
me.
1. Often, as the leather dries, it shrinks, and the sides of the saddle
splay out. You can fix this by wetting the leather slightly and gently
clamping it in the desired shape. It must dry thoroughly (a couple of
days) before releasing the clamps. If you need to touch up any gouges
with leather paint, do it now also.
2. Oil the underside of the saddle with a fair amount of good leather
oil, Neetsfoot or baseball glove oil.
3. Oil the top less heavily, but give it plenty of time to soak in.
Leave it in a room of normal warmth (i.e., not in the garage in winter!)
for a few hours. It's amazing how well the fine surface cracks will close.
4. Use your judgement as to how much oiling to do. It depends on how dry
the leather is, and how it responds to oiling. Be careful not to use too
much, or you will have a greasy tush after each ride!
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Early in 2003 I bought a used Brooks on E-Bay. I have a total of 6
Brooks (7 if you count the one I broke in a crash that's hanging on the
wall). The one I got from the guy on E-Bay was horrible. For some reason
he had it wrapped in saran wrap. It appeared to have been exposed to
water at some point. It was cracked and hard as a rock. I was not happy,
since it didn't look like it could be salvaged.
Here's what I did. I drenched it in Red Wing Boot oil (probably neats
foot) and set it out in the hot sun to absorb the oil. I did this
several times until it started to soften just a bit. I applied the oil
with a brush for each application. Then I went to Proofide. Again, two
or three applications and hot sun exposure to warm the leather to
encourage absorption. Then I put the saddle on the bike I use on
training rollers and rode it. Every 4 or 5 rides I applied Proofide.
Slowly the saddle stared to soften. But of course, the cracks never got
any better. After about 600 miles or so of riding I retired it because
the cracks were rough and started to hurt. It's in much better shape now
than when I got it. I may try at some point to carefully trim down the
rough edges of the cracks and use it again. As with any leather, at some
point of abuse it just completely breaks down. Brooks saddles will take
more abuse than most, so if your saddle isn't cracked you should be able
to rejuvenate it. As for myself, I decided I'd go back to breaking my
own in from brand new. That consists of some careful applications of
Proofide and riding, riding, riding. I have one right now that is
reaching perfection, it's on my mountain bike. Another is close behind,
it's on my roller bike. And two that are still like riding chunks of
wood. One of those is a beautiful honey colored Team Pro that's on my
fixed gear bike. Rode it 25 miles yesterday and can still feel the pain.
I've been trying the trick posted on the list of hitting the saddle with
a hammer on this one. Only I don't use a ball-peen hammer as
recommended. I cover the saddle with a towel and hit it with a large
rubber mallet, using the side of the mallet instead of the flat surface.
I got my wife a women's Team Pro for Christmas. That one is going to
have to be worked on before I install it on her Holdsworth.
Hope this isn't too much information :)
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As advised before: www.leatherique.com
As recommended by The Ferrari Club of America. "Rejuvenator Oil. It
works.
Used by me on my 67' Ferrari and Brooks that are old and too hard. Use
sparingly."
Use profide after as a sealer to keep out unwanted H2O that will dry out
your saddle even more. Your just moisturizing the saddle and then sealing
it in and the water out.
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For a saddle like you describe I would just use repeated Proofide
treatments. Little and often.
If a saddle is really bad off I use Nivea cream on it. (skin care, drug store)
Regards
Bill Laine
Wallingford Bicycle Parts
888 731 3537
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I've had lots of luck with bringing back several dozen dried out and
abused saddles over the years. Much of what applies to restoring
tack applies to bicycle leather.
Some important considerations have been ignored in this discussion
but if you'll check the archive you'll find they've been deal with
more than once before.
-----DIRT AND SALT (SWEAT) Must FIRST be removed from the leather.
compressed air>dry brush>damp cloth>damp cloth w/leather
cleaner-condition>
soaking wet cloth (in that order) Do not use saddle soap!!!
SADDLE SOAP SUCKS the life out of leather.
-----LIMITED application of oil!
I've not used Rejuvenator Oil but leather upholstery differs considerably
from saddle leather in suppleness. It probably fine but just don't over
apply.
TOO much oil will over-soften a good saddle.
Apply the oil thinly (LEXOL is excellent) while the leather is still wet
after
cleaning and only on a saddle that was extremely dry.
Otherwise just use Proofide--it does soften the saddle as radically.
-----Tie the saddle into the proper shape while it is still damp.
Allow it to dry slowly....no hair dryers!
-----After the saddle has dried for a week or so a coat of carnuba furniture
wax
will make it look a might newer and protect it longer. Parade shoe wax
will do as well and will also cover scuffs.
I use a Dremel small brush and tooth paste to polish the rivets.
Carry a shower cap in your tour bag. Muddy weather is the
natural enemy of leather saddles.
Hope this helps.
Marty
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