Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - I'm at the complete beginning, please help me

I'm 30 years old, I haven't been on a bike since I got my driver's license 14 years ago. I would like to get back into it, both for exercise and for fun (I will NOT be commuting with it). Most of my rides will be around town, nothing very far or for an extremely long duration.

I anticipate that most of my riding will be on the street, but I will most likely also be going up curbs and thru some parks so there will be some off-road. Also, I am a very large man. Even after I loose weight, I will still be 250-260lbs.

Knowing this would it be better for me to buy a mountain bike? A rode bike seems like it won't hold up for me, and after some research it seems like people seem to not like hybrids.

I'm willing to spend what it takes, whether that be $400 or $1,000, but I don't want to waste money if it's not necessary. For example, do I really need full suspension? I got by riding for many years without any springs :p The only thing I'd really like is disc brakes, call me a poser, I don't care. Disc brakes are cool as hell ;);)

Take a look at hybrid/urban/fitness bikes such as the trek fx series or the specialized sirrus. I personally own a trek 7.2fx and while it's no dedicated road bike, it's reasonably quick, comfortable and sturdy.

You're in the wrong forum to be asking about disc brakes :|

Just get a road bike and ride.

This is a question better asked in the commuting forums. Might get some help posting to that forum.

Buy a hybrid. It's not a road bike, but you do not need a full-suspension mtn bike to do the riding you want to do. The hybrid should have room for wider tires, which you will need.

I was in your exact position a couple of years ago. IMO, just buy a road bike from your favorite local bike shop and ride the crap out of it. Get some good bibs, a couple of water bottles, and ride on the road. As your mileage increases, you'll forget about those park rides...

Will a road bike be able to hold me? I weigh 315lbs. now and plan to get back down to about 250lbs. I've been told that road bikes aren't built for people built like me.

Out of curiosity, what benefit does a road bike give me over a mountain bike? When I was younger and did a lot of biking I first used BMX style bikes (I still have my 80's GT Performer!) and then mountain bikes on the road. What difference will a road bike give me, less weight? Different riding position?

Thanks!

"You're in the wrong forum to be asking about disc brakes :|"

Road bikes don't have disc brakes? Why not, too much weight?

You need a good, strong bicycle. Two factors of a strong bike:

a frame made of steel
high spoke count wheels.

Some suggestions you could consider:

Here are two well-made, strong bicycles. Read there desciptions to see the differences.
Surly Crosscheck (http://www.surlybikes.com/crosscheck_comp.html)
Surly Long Haul Trucker (http://www.surlybikes.com/lht_comp.html) eh...the Long Haul Truck come with higher gearing which may be more suitable for you.

These bike cost approx $1000.00 and are available in almost every bike shop. You have to ask for them because they are in the Quality Bike Products catalog that most all bicycle shops use.

Will a road bike be able to hold me? I weigh 315lbs. now and plan to get back down to about 250lbs. I've been told that road bikes aren't built for people built like me.

Out of curiosity, what benefit does a road bike give me over a mountain bike? When I was younger and did a lot of biking I first used BMX style bikes (I still have my 80's GT Performer!) and then mountain bikes on the road. What difference will a road bike give me, less weight? Different riding position?

Thanks!

You might want to look at Touring Bikes. Someone already posted a link to one. They tend to be stronger since they're made from steel and are designed to carry the load of a rider plus all their camping gear. Others have suggested posting in the commuting forum, however I'd start in the Clydesdale forum. You'll find very helpful people who've gone through the same weight / bike selection process. Good luck and enjoy riding. It's addictive.

To the OP--I'm going to send this to the Clydesdale forum. I think that'll be a good place for some advice...

To the OP--I'm going to send this to the Clydesdale forum. I think that'll be a good place for some advice...

And a good move it was!

OP, consider a suspensionless mountain bike or hybrid. The Specialized Hardrock is considered the "house" bike here, but there are other choices as well. If you want something with drop bars, consider the Trek 520, the Surley Long Haul Trucker, or other steel touring bikes.

Wheels, not frames, are going to be your main concern. That's another reason to consider a mountain bike, since the wheels seem more robust.

Wow, the Specialized Hardrock looks great and the price is very nice. If this is a bike that can hold my weight then I think it's what I will get because it seems to be exactly what I wanted. I also like the fact that it is as you say the "house bike", that means a lot IMO.

Some people say to get a hybrid or road bike since I will be riding mostly on the road, why is that, what disadvantages will I have on the road with a mountain bike?

One more question, someone in another forum mentioned a rear suspension bike might be better for a heavier person, how do you feel about that?

Thanks a lot!

ETA, What's the differences between the Sport, Comp, And Pro?

I think you've gotten good advice here so far.

As for dual suspension - forget it unless you are riding technical singletrack. Otherwise, you're only adding weight, cost, complexity, and losing some pedaling efficiency.

MTB vs Hybrid - I would go with the MTB if that is your decision point right now. Put some slick tires or tires with moderate tread on to reduce rolling resistance. IMO, a MTB has a much better riding position than a hybrid which is more upright.

As mentioned, there are cyclocross bikes which are sort of a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike - most have drop bars and more road oriented gearing but are built pretty sturdy.

Good luck, have fun, ride safe.

If i were you I would go with a hradtail mountain bike such as the Specialized Hardrock. You don't seem to worried about rear suspension and you can get a really good hardtail in your price range.
have fun and post pics when you get your new ride.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it will be the Specialized Hardrock, now I just have to decide which mode line and size.

Also consider the Kona Dew Drop. It is basically a rigid frame (no suspension) mountain bike with drop bars on it. I find having drop bars allows for changing hand position and keeps them from going numb. Oh, it also has the cool disk brake that you seek AND has a list price of $799. :thumb: Here is a LINK (http://www.konaworld.com/09_dewdrop_u.cfm) to the Dew Drop.

One more question, someone in another forum mentioned a rear suspension bike might be better for a heavier person, how do you feel about that?That's backwards from what you'll usually hear.

Wow, the Specialized Hardrock looks great and the price is very nice. If this is a bike that can hold my weight then I think it's what I will get because it seems to be exactly what I wanted. I also like the fact that it is as you say the "house bike", that means a lot IMO.

Some people say to get a hybrid or road bike since I will be riding mostly on the road, why is that, what disadvantages will I have on the road with a mountain bike?

One more question, someone in another forum mentioned a rear suspension bike might be better for a heavier person, how do you feel about that?

Thanks a lot!

ETA, What's the differences between the Sport, Comp, And Pro?

I'm 485 pounds and I ride a Specialized Hardrock XC. I've had it for 4 months, but just really started riding last week. It's doing great so far, and if it can hold me it can hold your weight. I've put about 35 miles on the bike so far.

I tried a few rear suspension bikes but I didn't like them, too much give for me. I prefer the hardtail style myself.
Maybe once I drop around 95 more pounds I'll look into trying rear susp. again.

Are you using the stock wheels and tires?

I've been doing some browsing and there seems to be two different options for us big guys on Hardrocks:

1) Use the stock wheels and tires until they wear out, then go for wheels with more spokes and double wall hubs (or something like that) and also put on a road type tires.

2) Immediately change to the heavier duty wheels and road tires, then save the off road tires for the future (weight loss, change to more off road riding).

Not sure what to do.

i'm about 300#... on an older ('92) steel framed road bike... room for larger tires (for a road bike) but sure wouldn't be comfy hopping curbs...

i'm primary a MTBer... who happens to ride the road a bit... just sold one of my MTB's as I was using it more on the road... prefer my other MTB for the trails I ride :)... nothing's better then getting out to the trail to blow off some steam... but the road is right out my front door so it's more conveniont...

discs are nice... but IMHO not needed on the road... although they are nice (but on a road bike limit both wheel choice (well hubs) and frame choice...

I was very happy for a while on a 29er MTB on the road... slickish tires + different bars made for a fairly comfy bike... did the tour de cure (100k) on it very happily...

here my redline d440 was as setup for the road... 700x40 tires (put a 700x32 out back eventualy)... bike complete was $580 out the door (think it's msrp @ $650 this year), added bars, discs, and some other things to it (including front shifty bits)
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/mr2donalson/bikes/redline/DSC06168.jpg

if you think you may venture out to the trail a 29er would be a great way to go... there are a number of rigid options in your price range... leaves plenty for new tires, shorts, lid, and other things you need if you're going to ride much.

whatever you choose good luck :)
mark

Although a touring bike would hold some extra weight, they are meant for longer rides. -IMO, scratch that idea.

Most bikes can handle curb hopping and light off-road use. A lot of it depends on just how much off roading you'll do and the quality of the terrain, but as someone who put a lot of money turning a mountain bike into a commuter, I'm not a big fan of MTB conversions. Uphills are murder and the rider positioning isn't very comfortable for level rides. -IMO, scratch that idea, unless your rides will be something like 1 mile to get to a nice trail, and then 3-4 miles of actual MTB trail riding. If it's riding over well maintained park grass or paved dirt roads, you really don't need a mountain bike.

My vote is for cyclocross, like the Kona Jake, Surly Cross Check, etc. Some are built more for the race side, some more for the mud. But if you look at the terrain they usually race on, it sounds like that's what you'll be going after.

BTW, disc breaks are a good idea if you ride in areas where the wheels get wet, which it definitely sounds like that's what you want to do. No posing there.....

Go out and do a lot of test riding. Go do some more. Find the bike YOU are comfortable with, the one YOU feel will get you out there and keep you out there. Buy that one. Then report back here with pics of the bike and your rides.

Just want to say WHAT FORUM WAS THIS ORIGINALLY IN??? hmm. I noticed a drastic change in tone once it hit the clyde forum.....OMFG people that actually want to help :eek: anyway I have you beat in the weight department and I ride a commuter style bike No problem @ 500lbs starting weight :D Just get double wall 36 spoke wheels and your golden :thumb: Just ride and have fun. cheers

+1 on a nice steel cyclocross bike. gives you the best of most worlds - fast on the road (maybe lose a couple of mph to a full road bike, but much more efficient than an mtb on the road), but plenty good for 1) badly surfaced roads (chip seal, poorly maintained, gravel) or 2) light to mildly moderate trails. if you want to do serious trail riding go the mtb route (i don't think you need full suspension), but i didn't gather that from your original post.

keep in mind disc brakes will add cost to the bike, are often more finicky to maintain, and if you have to switch to a stronger wheelset (likely) - they will need to be disc brake specific. they do offer some advantages, like wet weather riding, and are stronger than the standard cyclocross cantilevers at stopping you. you won't find tons of disc brake equippe cyclocross bikes out there b/c they are not uci sanctioned for racing. but they do exist for the aforementioned benefits, and will likely show up more often on the steel models (which I would suggest) rather than on the lightest weight aluminum/scandium/carbon/titanium models.

if money were no object, i would get a co-motion steel framed bike, and have them lace up a nice strong wheelset with discs for you. www.co-motion.com. they have lots of experience with touring, heavy riders, tandem wheelsets, and do amazing custom bikes. but these will run a LOT of money. more realistically (esp if you are new to this and aren't sure exactly what you want), something in the kona line, or perhpaps something like this 2010 redline classic, which is made of steel and has disc brakes:

http://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/conquest-classic.html

I just am not so sure about alex 32ct rims for your situation. also, there are many other steel cross bikes out there, just spend a few hrs searching on the net, and come back and post what you like to get some add'l inputs. i don't think a hybrid would be a bad choice for you either, and you can often get into a nicer component spec'd hybrid for less than a similarly equipped cross or road bike. i do agree wheels are going to be where it's at for you. i bought my fuji cross comp back in '06, and while the aluminum frame was more than fine for my 230lb body, my rear rim when out of true within a month, and continued to go out of true all the time even with free truing from my local shop. so i upgraded to a stronger wheelset and have been happy ever since. good luck, don't hesitate to ask more questions!

I see what you mean takingcontrol. This was originally in the road forum and it seems like the only answer there is "get a road bike and shut up" :thumb:

I definitely appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.

oh, and i forgot one thing -- get a helmet helmet helmet helmet helmet! and enjoy yourself! :thumb:

I bought a Spec Hard Rock mtn bike for my first bike in 1998, rode the "Ride the Rockies" on it in Colorado that year - equipped with slicks. I still have it and still ride it. No suspension, no nothing except I now have it decked out with panniers and lights for night riding.

In the interim I bought a Lemond Buenos Aires, a Windsor Leeds, and lately a 1968 10 speed, just for fun.

My point - you will never regret having the Spec Hard Rock in your stable, and it is a great starting out bike. I use mine all the time in winter, dark, grocery shopping, etc.

The rule is N+1, and I think your first N should be the SHR. Cheap, tried and true and tested. After you ride it a bit, you will then know what other bikes you want. Otherwise, you may be spending a bundle of money on something you don't really want.

What's N+1 mean?

I think you and the others are right about the Spec Hardrock. My only question is which model line (Sport, Comp, Pro?) and whether I should use the stock wheels and tires at the beginning or save those for offroading later and buy more road friendly tires now.

If you are buying new you should get a discount changing out for new wheels N+1 means that they agree with someones post/advice

Oh, so they would keep the stock wheels and sell me new ones at a lower price? Sounds good. I wonder if any local shops would have double wall higher spoke wheels.

Just want to say WHAT FORUM WAS THIS ORIGINALLY IN??? hmm. I noticed a drastic change in tone once it hit the clyde forum.....OMFG people that actually want to help :eek: anyway I have you beat in the weight department and I ride a commuter style bike No problem @ 500lbs starting weight :D Just get double wall 36 spoke wheels and your golden :thumb: Just ride and have fun. cheers

I think the thread was transferred here from the Road Forum. ;)

What's N+1 mean?

I think you and the others are right about the Spec Hardrock. My only question is which model line (Sport, Comp, Pro?) and whether I should use the stock wheels and tires at the beginning or save those for offroading later and buy more road friendly tires now.

My suggestion is to keep the stock wheels. You are going to be getting lighter, right? The wheels are tough as they are and you don't plan on abusing them.

Yes, Historian, I have been and will continue to get lighter. As long as you think the stock tires will be good on the road, I will be happy. That was easy! My only choice now is Sport, Comp, and Pro. I'm on Specialized's website looking into it, but I'm not finding the major differences and how they will effect me.

What's N+1 mean?

I think you and the others are right about the Spec Hardrock. My only question is which model line (Sport, Comp, Pro?) and whether I should use the stock wheels and tires at the beginning or save those for offroading later and buy more road friendly tires now.


No, N+1 means that whatever number of bikes you have, you always need (well, really - want) one more.

N = the number of current bikes.

As far as what model SHR to get, buy whatever turns you on the most!

No, N+1 means that whatever number of bikes you have, you always need (well, really - want) one more.

N = the number of current bikes.

As far as what model SHR to get, buy whatever turns you on the most!

My bad... that's what I get for making assumptions ( made an ass out of u...and umption :roflmao2:)

My bad... that's what I get for making assumptions ( made an ass out of u...and umption :roflmao2:)


'+1' means you agree with the previous poster, so you were close.

To SteelCity, even with a mountain bike try to go easy on riding up curbs. Approach slowly, and just as your front wheel reaches the curb, stand up and do a little jump without leaving the pedals and pull up on the handlebars to assist the wheel rising up. Then jump again as the rear wheel goes up the curb. You don't want the wheel to hit the curb hard enough to indent the tire to the rim. That will either damage the rim, or pinch the inner tube and cause a flat.

I just ordered the hardrock disc and i am 310#. My understand from talking to others is the Hardrock standard rims are built to take your average say 150-180 doing mild jumps in XC. So as long as i dont get crazy air they should be fine. One thing i learned after ordering the bike however is the sport has double walled rims, so if you have a big concern spend the extra money and go that route.

This was originally in the road forum and it seems like the only answer there is "get a road bike and shut up" :thumb:
Ironically, that is exactly what I would tell my wife, if I had one.....(and it would probably only be the last part).

You don't need a mountain bike to jump curbs. I have an early 80's Raleigh road bike/fixed gear conversion I built specifically to jump curbs and bunny hop them when I lived in a downtown city known for it's bad roads and aggressive bus drivers. Rode it for a year in those conditions with no problems at all, and of course there were a couple of times the curb jumping/bunny hops didn't go as planned. The only thing about this bike that could be considered heavy duty was that it had double walled rims, but keep in mind this is a set of 700cc road rims.

The reason I went fixed is because you can have an old steel framed bike for strength and it's still incredibly light weight, which makes bunny hops easier when you're 240 pounds. I'm not saying you need a fixed gear, but I think you're underestimating the strength of bikes in general. And if you're willing to take the knobby tires off a new mountain bike, I question if that is the right bike for you in the first place. Specialized makes great bikes, and they make really sexy looking bikes, but ultimately you want a bike designed for the way you're going to be using it.

I'll jump off the soap box and make one recommendation: Take your time and check out a couple of different bikes, preferably in the same conditions you want to ride them in. If there's a good LBS around they'll understand. You can always pull the trigger and get a Hardrock, but you should at least see how the other styles perform.

If you live in PA which I am guessing buy your name, tell us how tall you are and your inseam. This is pretty for a 2 sec search http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/1254876766.html

I live in NJ. SteelCity is the manufacturer of just about all the electrical boxes we use (I'm an electrician) so I took the name.

I'm 6'1" but I don't have a clue what my inseam is. Tomorrow I am going to try and find some god bike shops around here (Northern NJ).

I have been biking for a while and clocked in at a max weight of 335. I really can not give you that much information on a specific bike, but I can tell you this. The bike itself doesn't really matter. I lost most of my weight on a single speed beach cruiser. You'll need to ride whatever it is that you get often.

I started by doing pickup instead of delivery (with my bike). Then started doing grocery shopping. It really helps.

To measure your cucling inseam place a large book snugly in your crotch, make sure the top is horizontal, then measure from the top of the book to the floor. Wear flat shoes as you do this. One way to make sure the book is level is to stand with your back to a doorframe and push the book through until the edge lies vertically on the door frame. You'll probably get a measure around 31-34 inches, or 2-3 inches longer than your pants inseam.

Start checking out all the local trek dealers and look for a left over Lemond Poprad Disc, to me that sounds like an ideal bike for you!

Why do you want to jump curbs?

Why do you want to jump curbs?

Because they are there?:D

Because they are there?:D

and they just aren't going to jump themselves?

Why do you want to jump curbs?
Cause they keep taunting me.

SilverSurfR, I'm in northern NJ too. What bike shops do you recommend? I just want a good shop where they know what they're talking about and won't try to screw me for a sale.

SteelCity,
I would recommend going in one of two directions:

Option A) Get a mountain bike w/o rear suspension. If possible, get tires meant for road and off road (flat in the middle, nubs on the edges). Ride wherever you want.

Option B) Get a Cyclocross or Touring bike with beefy (36 spoke+) wheels. As mentioned above, Surly's Long Haul Trucker is a popular option (for about $1k). These bikes will allow you to travel faster than a MTB but still have the low gearing which is helpful when climbing hills. However, you will not be able to jump over rocks or bomb down singletrack with a touring bike. Travel over gravel or bumpy dirt trails are certainly possible though.

I started out at 275lbs and went with a LHT. I'm enjoying it and am working up to do a century ride. However, I'm now wanting a mountain bike for riding the local trails (change of pace, shady trails are cooler than the direct sunlight of the roads near my house, etc.).

Oh yeah: Good luck and congrats on taking the first step toward cycling!