Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Big bike, saving weight, and the futility of it all.

Any of the tall Clydes ever look at trying to drop some weight from their bike, start adding up grams saved vs. money spent, and just give up on the idea?

I was playing around online and trying to figure out if there was a way to drop any significant weight from my brevet bike through component swaps, and realized the futility of it all after a very short while.
There are some things on the brevet bike which will not change:
Saddle, bars, most wheel components. This is based on comfort and durability for long rides.
So looking into things that I could change easily, I chose;
Seatpost, rear hub, crankset/BB.
Total cost of nearly $500. Total weight savings, less than a half pound.

IMO it's a waste of money unless you're a clyde who's racing up mountains for money and prestige.
Tho as long as it's your money, at least the gear sellers are happy.

$500 to save the equivalent of one cup of water?

IMO it's a waste of money unless you're a clyde who's racing up mountains for money and prestige.
Tho as long as it's your money, at least the gear sellers are happy.

If it was a significant weight savings I could come up with (on the order of a couple pounds) I'm willing to put some money into it. A couple pounds over the course of a 400k with 3 mountain passes ends up saving a lot of power.
Or it makes up for the extra food/water/gear you have to carry when there's 70 miles between resupply points.


$500 to save the equivalent of one cup of water?

Yeah, that's just the issue. There's really no point in spending $500 to drop an amount of weight I'll probably drop at a rest stop.

Maybe a carbon fork would be a greater cost/weight ratio.
*edit*
Just looked at a Winwood dual-cross fork vs. the steel fork I have now: 0.77 pounds saved; under $280. Much better option if I decide to upgrade anything.

The only weight I try and save is rotational weight, but that depends on the bike use. Lighter wheels make a bike feel much more responsive, from personal experience.

My commuter has Marathon 368's, which the reduced chance of a flat is worth 12oz for me.

My bikes are about 10% of my body weight. If they weighed 5lbs less ($$$$) that's a 2% reduction in total weight. Hardly worth thinking about.

A light bike makes you faster about as much as a high end BMX bike helps your stunt skills.

If one had little too no body fat, low muscle mass, and was nearing their peak fitness, or doing huge mileage, getting a lighter machine would make sense. Edited to add: If the riding included lots of hills, sprinting, or 100% effort accelerating, which is when weight matters.)
It would be much wiser to lose body weight, then spend days to weeks of working for the funds to lose less weight then a bottle of water.

That being said, if money is something you've got plenty of, the ego boost from a light bike is nice.

It really depends on what you have for a bike and what your long term cycling goals are.

I would not tolerate a bike heavier than 23 lbs except if I was touring. If my bike weighed much more than this, I would sell the existing bike and build something that met my Century ride needs. A Soma frame + CF fork + Open Pro rims/Dura Ace hubs for wheels and Shimano 105 should be close to 21 lbs for about $1400. A number of good aluminum bikes from Cannondale, Felt and others would also fit the bill.

How heavy is your current bike and what are your long term plans?

Michael

The only weight I try and save is rotational weight, but that depends on the bike use. Lighter wheels make a bike feel much more responsive, from personal experience.

I'd agree with this. There's a very noticeable difference between my Kona Jake and my Trek 1500. Mostly due to the wheels I would think.

I'm not sure how much this actually translates into measurable speed- but it's worth keeping the lightweight racer around to give me a break from the big ol' Jake.

You're lucky. I bought the bike and lightened the load almost immediately after I purchased it. Things turned bad quickly as I came to the realization that I had to downgrade because I was breaking stuff. Ended up costing me over $2,000 more than if I just had bought the lower level bike in the first place. That's what opened my eyes to the whole lightweight vs. durability issue. I need to lighten myself before I can even begin to lighten my bike.

It really depends on what you have for a bike and what your long term cycling goals are.

I would not tolerate a bike heavier than 23 lbs except if I was touring...
How heavy is your current bike and what are your long term plans?

Michael

I've got a Cross Check, and my long term goal is (possibly) to complete an SR series next year.
Currently my setup is around 28 pounds racked and bagged for a 400k, before gear and water. This doesn't seem too far off from the numbers that I've seen other riders on the LD forum throwing out there for their rando rigs, but there's always the consideration that dropping a pound off the bike means I can bring more food or water without the "climbing penalty" the weight would add.
The tough consideration on a rando rig is: How light do you go before you get worried about durability? (aka - Do I trust this at 0300hrs in a rainstorm on a backroad in a country where I might not even speak the language?)

I've got a Cross Check, and my long term goal is (possibly) to complete an SR series next year.
Currently my setup is around 28 pounds racked and bagged for a 400k, before gear and water. This doesn't seem too far off from the numbers that I've seen other riders on the LD forum throwing out there for their rando rigs, but there's always the consideration that dropping a pound off the bike means I can bring more food or water without the "climbing penalty" the weight would add.
The tough consideration on a rando rig is: How light do you go before you get worried about durability? (aka - Do I trust this at 0300hrs in a rainstorm on a backroad in a country where I might not even speak the language?)

Thats a great set-up and should be close to 23 lbs for the basic bike without fenders, racks and added safety gear.

If the bike fits well than you already have what you need!

Michael

Thought about this too. I have mainly DA 7-9 speed stuff so not much savings there to upgrade for what you would save. I think my biggest weight savings would come from a lighter frame and fork.

Nope! Any 10-12000 ft centuries I do is with my stock bike components. Except the wheels. I switched those out for super heavy climbing Deep V's:p. I have plenty of buds that suggest I spend a grand on sperlite wheels/tires and remove the valve caps for added speed are usually miles behind me on the climbs!:p

Heck, sometimes I even take the bell up the mtns with me.:roflmao2:

Unlike Antelope Dude, I don't think twice about what my fork weighs.:eek:......Bombing down mtn switchbacks at 30 mph with my weight behind it, I'm just happy that the frigger doesn't break!:eek:

I know it's the trend in this forum to look down on light bikes, but I'm always amazed at how much difference even a little weight makes when trying to climb hills.

I recently test-rode a Cervelo S2 during their Test & Win promotion. No intention of buying, but since it was free I figured I'd give it a try. Wheelset on that bike was probably 500g heavier than the wheels on my Cervelo RS and a heavier component group probably brought the total weight difference to 2-3 pounds (heavier). Headed up my favorite climb: 4 miles, average grade 7-8% with a minimum grade of 5% and a maximum grade of 12%. Despite feeling very zippy on the flats and into the wind, the S2 felt like a brick going up that hill. I literally stopped twice to make sure the brakes weren't dragging on the rims! A little bit of extra weight in the wheels, a little extra weight in the component group, and a little extra flex from the frame added up to a noticable difference when climbing. More of a difference than I was expecting...

I suppose that if you have the leg strength of Mr. Beanz then weight isn't much of an issue. For us mere mortals, it can make a difference.

I suppose that if you have the leg strength of Mr. Beanz then weight isn't much of an issue. For us mere mortals, it can make a difference.


Leg strength?:roflmao2:.... I think more fitness level. My favorite climb is 21 miles. 8 @ 6% then another 13 @ 4-5%. 5,000 ft gain After descending, I'll turn around and do the 6% climb a second time (7200 ft gain).

I think it's like Phil says (learning to suffer) that gets you thru.:D

Gina has done about 16 miles of the climb. The 8 mile 6% climb about 6 or 7 times over the years. And she is not even close to a "climber". If she did it more often, she'd get better.

For me, it's not being strong, it seems more like "willing" to suffer!:thumb:

I know it's the trend in this forum to look down on light bikes, but I'm always amazed at how much difference even a little weight makes when trying to climb hills.

I suppose I'm really just questioning things for the sake of it after talking with a friend at the LBS and picking up his speed-demon rig: A full carbon Tarmac SL Dura-Ace which tips the scales at a scant 17.6 pounds. He's no small guy, either; 235 to my current 242, and he's not babying that thing either.

Not that I'd want a full carbon rig with low-count wheels and 23mm tires under me for 400k, but I did start questioning whether or not my ride could stand to spare a few pounds as I'm dropping some weight.
I'm not unhappy with my current setup; quite the contrary... I'm thrilled with the comfort and amazing durability my bike has repeatedly proven. Through over a dozen centuries, a half dozen double metrics, a 300k and a double century there aren't any complaints, especially since I've stopped to help plenty of people with breakdowns and then kept on rolling.

Maybe it's just that at 6'6" with a 62cm frame I forget that my top tube is nearly as tall as many people's saddle height, and no matter what I do a bike that fits me properly is always going to be a bit heavier than average.

Leg strength?:roflmao2:.... I think more fitness level. My favorite climb is 21 miles. 8 @ 6% then another 13 @ 4-5%. 5,000 ft gain After descending, I'll turn around and do the 6% climb a second time (7200 ft gain).

Sounds like you would enjoy the 400k I've got planned for the fall. The Seattle Randos put on the 3 Passes 400 which traverses Snoqualmie Pass (3022'), Stevens Pass (4056') and Blewett Pass (4102'). Each one of the climbs starts from below 200' and lasts for at least 15 miles. They're never very steep (7% at most) but they just go on and on and on. I think the climbing total with all the other rollers is close to 16K feet.

Sounds like you would enjoy the 400k I've got planned for the fall. The Seattle Randos put on the 3 Passes 400 which traverses Snoqualmie Pass (3022'), Stevens Pass (4056') and Blewett Pass (4102'). Each one of the climbs starts from below 200' and lasts for at least 15 miles. They're never very steep (7% at most) but they just go on and on and on. I think the climbing total with all the other rollers is close to 16K feet.


Sheesh! I'm not that crazy!:D....Well I do hope to do the Ca Triple crown sooner or later (3 doubles in a year). But I'm not sure if I'd do the King of th Mtn series first. Either way, it's nice to have dropped most of the extra weight getting back into shape. But still, that rando ride sounds nutz!:thumb:

I did consider going lite CF but the more I rode, the more I realized I didn't need it really. I had buds trying to talk me into ditching my Deep V's while climbing some mtn rides. One guy telling me the benefits as the front hub of his $800 wheelset fell apart as he spoke!:eek::roflmao2:

When I did run into the money to pick up a nicer bike, I actually invested in Gina's ride. She rides the full carbon and low spoke count wheels and lite tires. I figure if I want to keep her riding, I'd give her every advantage to have her keep up and make it nice.

She rides the $60 (each) tires and I ride the $18 (each) tires!....I've actually moved up from the $12 tires!:p

BTW, I did just get a haircut. That will save a few grams on tomorrow's ride. $20 to shave a few grams. Much cheaper than buying liter bike parts!:roflmao2:

[QUOTE=Unlike Antelope Dude, I don't think twice about what my fork weighs.:eek:......Bombing down mtn switchbacks at 30 mph with my weight behind it, I'm just happy that the frigger doesn't break!:eek:[/QUOTE]

I'm not that worried about what my fork weighs geeeze. Since my bike is over 20 years old, I would think I could get a set up equal in strength but lighter with today's materials that's all.

BTW, I did just get a haircut. That will save a few grams on tomorrow's ride. $20 to shave a few grams. Much cheaper than buying liter bike parts!:roflmao2:

I already shave my head. I'm not shaving my beard!:lol:

Go potty before you ride. That saves a few hundred dollars worth of weight.

+1 on all the discussion of % weight savings. Me, bike, water, snack, saving 5 pounds doesn't make a significant difference in the weight total. I can make a bigger impact faster by being more disciplined in my diet.

A friend was showing me his Cannondale CAAD9. Weighs about 15.5 lbs. He was all excited about the upgrade from his CAAD8 at about 18. Broke his heart when I told him I had lost the equivalent of 5 of his bikes in the last year.

Go potty before you ride. That saves a few hundred dollars worth of weight.

+1 on all the discussion of % weight savings. Me, bike, water, snack, saving 5 pounds doesn't make a significant difference in the weight total. I can make a bigger impact faster by being more disciplined in my diet.

A friend was showing me his Cannondale CAAD9. Weighs about 15.5 lbs. He was all excited about the upgrade from his CAAD8 at about 18. Broke his heart when I told him I had lost the equivalent of 5 of his bikes in the last year.

-1 go potty and get the lighter stronger part (as most true upgrades should be both)

you can ask any commuting or tourer I know, take the same bike and add 5 lbs to it and you feel it quite a bit. When I add my panniers with work clothes and shoes and tools (not too much weight) it slows me down a noticable amount, and I live where is little to no elevation gain just alot of start and stop.

I suppose I'm really just questioning things for the sake of it after talking with a friend at the LBS and picking up his speed-demon rig: A full carbon Tarmac SL Dura-Ace which tips the scales at a scant 17.6 pounds. He's no small guy, either; 235 to my current 242, and he's not babying that thing either.

The best climbing bike I ever rode was a 2009 Specialized S-works Tarmac SL2. Took one out for a 2-hour ride when the Specialized demo truck was in town a couple of months ago. It had cheap (~$800?) Roval wheels rather than Zipp 404s, a 53/39 crank, and 11-26 cassette. I was concerned about the gearing since I use a compact double (50/34) and 11-28 cassette. Didn't get a chance to take the bike up my favorite climb, but the light weight and stiff frame made the 39-26 combo work much better than I would have expected...

This is one of those questions for which the answer is all about perspective, individual goals and the maintenance/performance trade off. I don't consider my primary bike to be "light", it's a Caad 4 with almost full Ultegra, D/A cranks and pedals, and Open Pro rims. When i look at trying to save any weight on that bike, the components that allow such (cassette, freehub body, wheels) come with not only considerable price increases but more importantly reduction in service life for someone of my size and riding style.

However, given a lesser specified bike, i.e. Sora components, I would change my thoughts in a heart beat and consider that 105 or Ultegra level components could in fact provide some substantial weight savings without getting into silly amounts of money or shortening service life, and perhaps even extending such.

I actually ordered this to make a correction to my saddle angle, but my soon-to-be-installed Thompson Elite is 35g lighter than my current Kalloy post! I should fly up the hills now! :lol:

I actually ordered this to make a correction to my saddle angle, but my soon-to-be-installed Thompson Elite is 35g lighter than my current Kalloy post! I should fly up the hills now! :lol:

1/16 of your way to saving a pound! That's the spirit.