Mountain Biking - Ok, so I gotta upgrade my ancient MTB
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I've just about worn out every component on my ancient Haro again. (It's so old it has an undermount rear brake and a 6 spd freewheel.) So, I'm looking to upgrade to something with modern components.
Trouble is, I'm a clyde at 225 lbs and will never go below 200. I do not trust alum frames at this weight for off road. And, I DO ride my mtn bike off road on both single track and fire roads. I climb hard and descend at medium speeds (20-30 mph). I do not need full supsension either as I am not into grabbing air or huge drops.
So, who makes a steel framed hardtail these days? I figure anything modern ought to beat the 33 lbs my Haro weighs even if I stay with steel.
As an avowed steel loving retrogrouch (for example, I think your old Haro sounds awesome :P) I can honestly say you are worrying over nothing on the aluminum frame for off road riding. I'm about the same size as you, and I've been riding a trek 6500 on trails for 10 years now, including some crashes, with no issues. Plus I don't think there are really many options in steel, off the shelf. Plenty of choices if you are looking at bare frames or custom of course.
07-23-09, 02:03 AM
Kona makes a "Clydesdale specific" frame.
It's a very beefy hard tail so I don't think you'd have any troubles on it.
If I'm not mistaken its called the "Hoss"
07-26-09, 09:17 PM
Most of the steel framed bikes seem to be for 29ers.
GT Peace 9er (Reynolds 520). The fork is a rigid but I hear that 29" wheels smooth out a lot of bumps. You could always installing a suspension fork later.
Jamis Dragon Comp (Reynolds 631)
Jamis Dragon 29 (Reynolds 853)
KHS Tuscon 29 (Cromo)
07-26-09, 09:35 PM
Some cheap Trek and Giant frames, and I'm sure many others, are made of steel. The trek 820, giant boulder, are two that are steel. They both cost about $320.
Steel is real:thumb: But I was at one point 260 riding a aluminum Gary Frame, never had a issue. Down to 225 and on the same type of frame, still no problem. They are stronger than you think.
07-27-09, 12:19 AM
My buddy is 221lbs he rides a specialized rockhopper pro, his riding style basically is plow through anything you see. He doesn't slow down for anything and his frame is still in one piece so if he hasn't broken an aluminum frame yet my guess is you gonna be just fine if you get an aluminum frame :D
I have a trek 4300disc , GT Marathon 9r , GT sanction 1.0 and a specialized hardrock disc , im 225 pounds and havent had any problem on any of my bikes. Most of the aluminum frames can hold 300lbs , so go for it.
I'm 6'4" and raced sport class in NORBA. I remember when I first saw Clydesdales classes and I felt that a guy logging close to a thousand miles a month on the road not counting MTB time with less than 10% body fat didn't belong in Clydesdales. The lightest I could ever hit was 193, put on a camel back and shoes and I easily tipped 10 stone. I raced from Mt. Hood to Mammoth, Park City to Tsali on Cannondale aluminum. Still have both my 1993 hardtail and my late 90s full suspension.
The only real reoccurring frame problems Ive ever seen on MTBs are bottom brackets on carbon fiber bikes. I've see several different varietys failure there.
If you ride regularly a good aluminum frame will not be a problem; chains and rear cogsets on the other hand you will go through like candy. I used to toss my chain about every month; (that's assuming I didn't ride in the wet, in which case it lasted about one ride) and a new XTR cogset about every 3.
. The lightest I could ever hit was 193, put on a camel back and shoes and I easily tipped 10 stone.
FYI, 10 stone is 140 pounds.
07-27-09, 09:26 PM
Your weight is no big deal. I started this year at 220lbs and ride aluminum frames, no problem. I know guys in the high 200's riding aluminum frames doing small jumps with no problem.
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