Bicycle Mechanics - Crack in Mavic Open Pro Sport Ultegra

I've read all the lists about cracked rims and that they mean that it needs to be replaced. So, I was curious on about how long, but I think I may have more than a simple crack. Here is a pic of the crack on the rear wheel. :cry: It seems I can't get wheels to last longer than 5,000 miles.

The wheel has about 3,500 - 4,500 miles on it. It is used mainly for commuting, some rec riding though. I guess I may ride too many railroad tracks too fast. I did hit a 1 1/2" steel pipe I didn't see. Maybe I need to ride more gingerly on these wheel. I have loved them, and I thought they were bomb proof.


So, I have a few Q's for the experts:

1) What is the likely cause(s), too many potholes, railroad tracks, bumpy roads, etc. too tight spoke, too heavy rider etc.

2) How long would you estimate b/f failure. (When failure occurs, will the wheel just sway back and forth, or will it be more serious that I wouldn't be able to stop.

3) How / if a warranty are normally available for Mavic wheels from Performance bike, (bought 2 yrs ago w/ 3,500 - 5,000 miles) for those that have experienced?

4) I just a bit worried, as I noticed that my stem is cracked as well, so I'm hoping that I don't have a 3rd thing to replace as well.

Open pros aren't particulary strong rims. Go to a reputable wheelbuilder and get some deore/deore LX hubs laced 3x on a 32/36 alex da28 rim. You won't be wrecking those right quick. We built these for messengers and they've held up real well.

Railroad tracks and steel pipes will destroy any wheel no matter how much or little the rider weighs.

Railroad tracks and steel pipes will destroy any wheel ...


But usually by denting/causing a low spot on the rim, or folding/flaring the brake surfaces in either direction. I've never had a spoke pull through for that kind of impact.

Another Mavic OP failure.

Try DT swiss RR1.1's or better yet, Kin Lin XR-270 (cheaper and better than OP or DT)

There is no such thing as a "bomp proof" bicycle wheel. Hit something hard enough often enough and you will distroy any of them.

However, as dabac said, the impacts you mention do usually dent or taco a wheel, not cause spoke hole cracks or pull-through.

Who built these wheels and was the spoke tension proper when you got them or was it ever checked? Were the wheels retrued after one of your impacts which could have resulted in very uneven spoke tension?

OP's aren't the worlds most durable rim but anything should last more than 5000 miles if properly built and not abused too badly.

There is no such thing as a "bomp proof" bicycle wheel. Hit something hard enough often enough and you will distroy any of them.

http://www.bomp.com/x/images/BOMP_logo.jpg

As dabac said, the impacts you mention do usually dent or taco a wheel, not cause spoke hole cracks or pull-through.

Who built these wheels and was the spoke tension proper when you got them or was it ever checked? Were the wheels retrued after one of your impacts which could have resulted in very uneven spoke tension?

OP's aren't the worlds most durable rim but anything should last more than 5000 miles if properly built and not abused too badly.

They were Performance Bike. I didn't check it when the arrived. also about 1 year back the bungee came loose off my rack and caught on a spoke. I think it may have slightly bent a spoke. I retrued the wheel. I may have over tensioned that area of the bike. I guess I could have been the cause of the crack. After that they seemed to come routinly out of true in the same area. I just thought the spokes were loosing themselves. But, this may be the real problem. Can't remember exactly where the bungee cord caught the spoke. I wrapped around the wheel a few times b/f I could stop.

I'm calling Performance Bike. Apparently, they have a total satisfaction guarantee. Kinda of like Costco. While I'm not one to like use something for 10 years and then say I'm not satisfied when it wears out, but a rim only lasting 3,500 miles b/f it cracks is another story. So, I guess I will go with the Mavic OPS again. I guess I'm only out shipping.

BTW, would it be a good idea to have the tension and the wheels checked when they come back to make sure the tension is right?

....also about 1 year back the bungee came loose off my rack and caught on a spoke. I think it may have slightly bent a spoke. I retrued the wheel. I may have over tensioned that area of the bike. I guess I could have been the cause of the crack. After that they seemed to come routinly out of true in the same area.
This was most likely the cause of your problem. If the spoke was damaged and you had to tension it or adjacent spokes excessively to get the wheel true, it probably caused the rim to fail.

BTW, I'm glad my "bomp proof" typo was the incentive for such a graphic posting. :)

Open Pros are good reliable rims. I've ridden Open Pros and DT RR 1.1 rims for several years with no problems. The DT's are lighter but I don't think stronger.

I suspect this OP cracked due to the railroad tracks and/or pot holes, etc. Even spoke tension is important but from my experiences it has always been the rough roads that cause rim failures.

The angle on the valve stem seems to indicate insufficient tire pressure, but could be due to something else if it is cracked. Fully inflate your tires before each ride.

Al

I suspect this OP cracked due to the railroad tracks and/or pot holes, etc. Even spoke tension is important but from my experiences it has always been the rough roads that cause rim failures.

The angle on the valve stem seems to indicate insufficient tire pressure, but could be due to something else if it is cracked. Fully inflate your tires before each ride.Al

The pressure is always at about 100 +. I check it every to every other ride. Also, should I slow down and go over RR tracks slow for future reference?

They are real bumpy when I go real fast. I usually don't try to go through deep potholes, but you know how it goes when you can avoid every rough spot.

The pressure is always at about 100 +. I check it every to every other ride. Also, should I slow down and go over RR tracks slow for future reference?

They are real bumpy when I go real fast. I usually don't try to go through pot holes.

Yeah, I ruined an expensive wheel by hitting railroad tracks too fast. But it really depends on the tracks (grade crossings). Some are much smoother than others. Our state has the worst roads of any state I know of. I pump up my tires before each ride. I weigh 165 and run 118 psi on the rear and 110 psi in the front. I also check wheel true and spoke tension often.
BTW, you need a new rim.

Also, should I slow down and go over RR tracks slow for future reference?

DUH!
-Gene-

DUH!
-Gene-

Enough said. I will be more careful.



BTW, you need a new rim.

I'm going to box it and send it back to performance. Should I also send the front as it might be suspect as well, or just the back wheel?

I'm going to box it and send it back to performance. Should I also send the front as it might be suspect as well, or just the back wheel?
A front wheel is more lightly loaded and you didn't say anything about damaging a spoke and having to forcibly retrue the front rim so it should be ok.

I suspect this OP cracked due to the railroad tracks and/or pot holes, etc. Even spoke tension is important but from my experiences it has always been the rough roads that cause rim failures.

Given that riding over railroad tracks, pot holes and/or other types of impacts reduces spoke tension, how do you figure that rough roads cause the rim to crack around the spoke holes?

Given that riding over railroad tracks, pot holes and/or other types of impacts reduces spoke tension, how do you figure that rough roads cause the rim to crack around the spoke holes?

Shock, flexure, and elastic rebound. I suppose it could have been due to excessive and uneven tension or maybe a combination of all of the above. I've never had a rim fail from excessive spoke tension, bit I have from impact at a spoke.

... should I slow down and go over RR tracks slow for future reference?..

Depends on how good you are at going light and bunnyhopping. I don't have any RR crossings on my route but a fair share of curbs. When I'm only carrying a small backpack I pretty much hit them at speed and do a half-assed bunnyhop which usually results in the front wheel clearing well but the rear wheel taking a bounce. But as it's only carrying a minor load at that time it seems to survive just fine.
When I'm hauling panniers though it's another thing entirely, then I have to dump all that lovely velocity and roll over at less than walking pace.