drbob
02-15-02, 06:52 PM
What would be the best upgrade for my bike....I've got the 2002 model with Rolf Pro Vector rims and An Easton HC 90 stem.
Road Cycling - Upgrade Trek 5200
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fubar5
02-16-02, 10:43 AM
A 2002 Trek 5200 shouldn't need upgrades....
velocipedio
02-17-02, 09:30 AM
I'm with the Foob Man here. I can't imagine what you'd want to upgrade on a 5200. It's a near-top-of-the-line bike. And if its a 2002 model, it's new. Sure, you can go DA on some of the components, add a CF crank, save a couple of grams and add a marginally tiny amount of stiffness in the bars and stem, but upgrading seems utterly gradtuitous at this point. It's more than race-ready.
Save your money and use it to upgrade components as they fail or wear out... get a spare wheelset, like open pro rims laced to Ultegra hubs for $300 and use the Bontragers [they're Bonties, not Rolfs on the 2002] for races... get a cyclocross bike for winter training...
The only reason to upgrade a perfectly-well-specced racing bike right after you buy it is for bragging rights, and that's the kind of thing wealthy poseurs do. Ride the damned thing and, when you have 10,000 or 15,000 km on it, treat yourself to a cool upgrade, you will have earned it by then.
Save your money and use it to upgrade components as they fail or wear out... get a spare wheelset, like open pro rims laced to Ultegra hubs for $300 and use the Bontragers [they're Bonties, not Rolfs on the 2002] for races... get a cyclocross bike for winter training...
The only reason to upgrade a perfectly-well-specced racing bike right after you buy it is for bragging rights, and that's the kind of thing wealthy poseurs do. Ride the damned thing and, when you have 10,000 or 15,000 km on it, treat yourself to a cool upgrade, you will have earned it by then.
gmason
02-17-02, 09:38 AM
The only reason to upgrade a perfectly-well-specced racing bike right after you buy it is for bragging rights
In which case you could always equip it with a Campa gruppo. ;)
Cheers...Gary
In which case you could always equip it with a Campa gruppo. ;)
Cheers...Gary
drbob
02-18-02, 04:18 PM
Actually, the early 2002 bikes came with the Rolf Pro Vectors (as did mine). I've got about 3000 miles on the bike and recently needed to extend my stem, the reason for the Easton stem upgrade. Obviously, the bike was race ready when I purchased it...however, I did not have the jingle to get the 5500, which is essentially the same bike, but with Durace.
So, my question remains the same... what upgrades make sense now that I can spend a little more on my bike? :confused:
So, my question remains the same... what upgrades make sense now that I can spend a little more on my bike? :confused:
velocipedio
02-18-02, 04:51 PM
Originally posted by drbob
So, my question remains the same... what upgrades make sense now that I can spend a little more on my bike? :confused:
Depends on how much rhino you have... I'd say that the best way to spend money that really needs to be spent on abike is to buy a second set of wheels. No serious roadie should be without two sets of wheels. If you race, you'll want different wheels for different sitiations; lightweight wheels for climbing and aero wheels for TTs. Even if you don't race, your Rolfs will give you problems [it's inevitable with Rolfs] and you'll probably have to shop them to get those fixed. If you want to keep riding, you'll need a back-up. When you crash [not if], you will probably put one or both of your wheels seriously out of true or trash them completely. If you want to keep riding, you'll eitjher need a back-up, or you'll have to buy the first set of wheels that come along.
Do yourself a favour; have your shop or local wheelbuilder build you a set of traditionally-laced, 32-spoke wheels with Ultegra hubs and Mavic Open Pro rims. This will cost you about $350 and you'll have some really great, though not the sexiest-looking wheels in the paceline. The whole set will weigh in at around 1600g -- which may actually be lighter than the Rolfs -- they'll be tough and you'll be able to true them yourself at the side of the road if you have an accident. In fact, they may well become your favourite wheels.
That's the BEST way you can upgrade your bike.
So, my question remains the same... what upgrades make sense now that I can spend a little more on my bike? :confused:
Depends on how much rhino you have... I'd say that the best way to spend money that really needs to be spent on abike is to buy a second set of wheels. No serious roadie should be without two sets of wheels. If you race, you'll want different wheels for different sitiations; lightweight wheels for climbing and aero wheels for TTs. Even if you don't race, your Rolfs will give you problems [it's inevitable with Rolfs] and you'll probably have to shop them to get those fixed. If you want to keep riding, you'll need a back-up. When you crash [not if], you will probably put one or both of your wheels seriously out of true or trash them completely. If you want to keep riding, you'll eitjher need a back-up, or you'll have to buy the first set of wheels that come along.
Do yourself a favour; have your shop or local wheelbuilder build you a set of traditionally-laced, 32-spoke wheels with Ultegra hubs and Mavic Open Pro rims. This will cost you about $350 and you'll have some really great, though not the sexiest-looking wheels in the paceline. The whole set will weigh in at around 1600g -- which may actually be lighter than the Rolfs -- they'll be tough and you'll be able to true them yourself at the side of the road if you have an accident. In fact, they may well become your favourite wheels.
That's the BEST way you can upgrade your bike.