Bicycle Mechanics - So i got this new bike...

and this is what it looks like:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0728092318a.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0728092318b.jpg

lol. i bought it for a really good price, now i just need some help getting her back on her wheels. anyone that can assist in the reconstruction of this bike? I know the basics, but all the little stuff has me lost.

Here is a starting point to get the front forks back on.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127

holy crap! i don't have any of those tools. i think i'll just wing it with the tools i have. the front fork should be pretty straight forward install. what should i use for lube on the bearings?

Use grease on everything you screw together, slide together, or on the bearings. You can use automotive grease, or whatever. I have a tube of Park grease that has lasted for years.

If you have a degree of mechanical aptitude, putting the parts where they look like they belong should get you pretty far. Don't force anything.

To get the grips onto the handlebar, if they don't slide on easily, squirt a bit of windex inside each one. It will lubricate the grips and eventually evaporate.

I'm sure you can find instructions online if you go part-by-part.

Lube for the bearings, for bolts, etc: Go to your local Lowes/Home Depot and get this (dirt cheap at $3/tub, and good for almost everything on the bike):

I use WD-40 to install my grips EXCEPT for ESI silicon grips -then I use windex

Also, the front fork is actually probably the trickiest part of what you've got to do, as you want to make sure the headset (top and bottom bearings + races, essentially) is tightened just enough to prevent play but loose enough so you don't excessively wear the bearings.

I can probably get it mostly together. The parts i'm worried about are: putting the grip shifters back together, getting the brakes installed correctly, getting the "gear changer" thing back on, and the adjustment of all the cables. And i plan to use automotive wheel bearing grease.

i still haven't figured out what this fabled "headset" is. is it the fork, the part that holds the bar, the frame... what the he!! is it? lol

maybe a need a bike anatomy chart or something

i still haven't figured out what this fabled "headset" is. is it the fork, the part that holds the bar, the frame... what the he!! is it? lol

maybe a need a bike anatomy chart or something

here is a chart of the headset at least.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Bicycle_headset_exploded_view-en.png/250px-Bicycle_headset_exploded_view-en.png

See if the shifters have a maker and model number on them and we might be able to dig up tech docs for you.

The headset is essentially all the pieces that attach the fork/steering tube to the head tube of the frame. You've got bearing races: 1 usually press-fit onto steerer tube down at the fork's crown, 1 each usually press-fit into the bottom and top openings of the frame's head tube, and 1 not press-fit into anything on top. Bearings go in the bottom and top races. There may be additional spacers/washers/etc. Depending on the style of headset and steerer tube, the top may be threaded onto the steerer tube (a "threaded" headset) or just clamped onto the steerer tube (a "threadless" headset).

jco - at least post clear pictures of *each* individual part you are not sure of, whether for assembly, installation, or adjustment. That will help us help you!

ok, so the headset is (basically) everything that has to do with the fork bearings.

i'll get as much info on everything as i can. if i start putting stuff together i'll try and get build pics and keep this updated. should be a neat project.

as far as clear pictures... i have no digicam, so i have to use my 2mp phone :(

ok, i got a little bit of progress to show. i got the headset all cleaned up in some paint thinner. also got the races on the frame cleaned up. there was no pitting and everything cleaned up really nice. got it all greased up (can you use too much grease?) and put it together exactly like THIS (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Bicycle_headset_exploded_view-en.png/250px-Bicycle_headset_exploded_view-en.png). i also picked up an old school road bike (schwinn 754).

here are some pics of my progress: (sorry about the quality)

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730092313a.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730092314a.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730092314b.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730092316a.jpg


also got an "inventory" pic of what i have left that i'll probably need a bit of help with. all the springs and stuff i have no idea about. is this everything i should need? still have to install front/rear brakes/cables, grip shifters, shifter cables (need to buy), der., and wheels of course.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730092327a.jpg

where can i find some decent/cheap shifter cables? i just realized i didnt get them with the bike. how much am i looking to spend on that? i have a bunch of other questions also, pertaining to wheels/tires/tubes, but i'll save those until i get this figured out. thanks in advance for your help.

ok, i'll bump this up with my tire/wheel questions.

i need new tires and tubes for this bike, so i went looking around to see what is available. i went to the shop across the street to see what they had. the only 24" tires they had were BMX tires. kinda knobby, but not exactly what i was hoping for. But at $10 each for name brand tires (Specialized) they are tempting. And the tubes there are $7. I left there and went to Wal-Mart and Target. they have roughly the same stuff as each other, and their tires are ~$12ea and come in a box, and are FLAT.

the question i have is: should i get the BMX (name brand) tires, or should i buy the wal-mart ones? also, what is the difference in tubes? some are like $3 and others are like $8. will i be good with the cheaper ones? i also am missing the band that covers the spokes on one of the rims. What is it called, and how much are they?

sorry for all the questions, but i want this to be built right and i haven't messed with bikes since i was much younger; and i dont remember having all these options. thanks in advance

these are what i found at target/wal-mart:
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730091238a.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730091225a.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730091225b.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730091225c.jpg

This might help you with the shifters.

http://bicycletutor.com/grip-shift-cable/

brake help

http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Install-a-V-Brakes-the-Complex-Way-66769889

http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-v-brakes/

The long rods with the levers are your quick release wheel skewers. The 4 cone shaped springs in the upper corner of the light floor tile on the right of your picture go with them.

Remove the nut from the threaded end of the skewer. Place a cone shaped spring on the rod, wide end first. Now insert the rod into the axle on either wheel. Now install another spring, narrow end first, towards the wheel and rethread the nut onto the threaded rod.

http://bicycletutor.com/images/bike/quick-release-skewer.jpg

I do not like slime filled tubes. The slime tends to settle at one place and make the tire "bounce" at higher speeds due to being imbalanced. You will be fine with either tire from either store. About the same quality.

I'm pretty sure you want 26" tires and tubes, as that is a mountain bike. Unless Giant made a kids' Rincon. Probably any brand tire/tube combo will be fine at this point, unless you want to get fussy.

That bike is going to have 24" tires?

I use WD-40 to install my grips EXCEPT for ESI silicon grips -then I use windex

<pff> Water works just as well.

i actually don't know exactly how big the wheels are. lol. i just assumed 24" for some reason. it's a 23.5" frame, so it's no kiddie bike. ;) how can i look at the rim and find out?

you guys are a huge help, by the way.

how about the shifter cables? how do i know what i need?

The four spiral springs you know about now. To the left of them are (front?) brake arm springs.

To the right of them are two crank bolts? How are the crank arms being held on now? (Above them crank dust caps?)

Below the crank bolts the four stainless steel bolts hold the four brake arms to the frame. Each should have a washer.

The two big round rings in the bottom row (not metal) are probably spacers that go between the sections of the shifters. I don't know what the big grey round ring is - part of the headset? part of the shifters?

The chrome thing with a cam lever between the brake arms is the seat post clamp.

No you can't use too much grease.

You need 26" tires and tubes. Avoid the knobby tires if you can.

You need two gear cables and two brake cables, that is easy. Then you need the housing. Different for brake and gear. If you can buy the housing from a bikeshop they can cut it for you to the right lenght (bring the frame). You can also buy it onlne. Cutting it yourselfis possible, but easyest if you`ve got the right tool. A dreml or cable pliers is best.

how about the shifter cables? how do i know what i need?

Give us the model numbers off the shifters and brakes. Or better, take a sample to your local bike shop so they can give you the right ones. All modern shifter cable and housing is the same dimensions (brake is different); the only real question is what ends you need.

If you cut your own housings, you will find that making do with the wrong tools is not an option. Consider having the LBS install your shifters, cable/housings, and brakes.

The four spiral springs you know about now. To the left of them are (front?) brake arm springs.

To the right of them are two crank bolts? How are the crank arms being held on now? (Above them crank dust caps?)

Below the crank bolts the four stainless steel bolts hold the four brake arms to the frame. Each should have a washer.

The two big round rings in the bottom row (not metal) are probably spacers that go between the sections of the shifters. I don't know what the big grey round ring is - part of the headset? part of the shifters?

The chrome thing with a cam lever between the brake arms is the seat post clamp.

No you can't use too much grease.

ok, so i am missing a set of brake arm springs?

idk how the crank is held on. those may be the bolts. it hasnt fallen apart though, and i havent been super gentile with it.

the 4 stainless bolts don't have washers, so i need those also.

the grey ring looks very similar to the lower seal of the headset. i couldn't figure out where it went. didn't seem to fit in anywhere on the headset.

and i packed the bearing cages, and then filled the frame races with grease, so it should be well lubed. and i tightened by hand, as to not get it too tight. there is no play in the fork, and it spins very freely.

The little curved silver metal part on the light colored tile is the spring that is mentioned in the grip shift video.

i actually don't know exactly how big the wheels are. lol. i just assumed 24" for some reason. it's a 23.5" frame, so it's no kiddie bike. ;) how can i look at the rim and find out?

you guys are a huge help, by the way.

how about the shifter cables? how do i know what i need?

That'll take 26" diameter tires. Get them arount 1.75-2.3 inches wide, probably would be best.

For shifter cables, you just need a standard mountain derailleur cable. Same for brakes - just a standard mountain cable.

For both types of cables, make *sure* to specify mountain cables, because road cables are different. Actually, many cables have two ends, with the road attachment on one end, and the mountain attachment on the other. If you get that kind, you cut one end off. Make sure to cut off the correct one.

Also, when getting cables, brake and shifter cables are different, as are their housings. You absolutely CANNOT use shifter cables on brakes because they're not strong enough. Also, using brake housing for shifters doesn't work so hot. So you'll need two shifter cables, two brake cables, and somewhere around 8 feet of each type of housing as well. And you'll need a cable cutter of some sort, and some method of cleaning up the cable ends (old metal file and awl works great).

Good luck!

You need 26" tires and tubes. Avoid the knobby tires if you can.

You need two gear cables and two brake cables, that is easy. Then you need the housing. Different for brake and gear. If you can buy the housing from a bikeshop they can cut it for you to the right lenght (bring the frame). You can also buy it onlne. Cutting it yourselfis possible, but easyest if you`ve got the right tool. A dreml or cable pliers is best.

i have the brake cables. i need the shifter cables. i'll probably let a shop put that stuff together and adjust it. how much would that cost (roughly)? how much would it cost to take it in as it sits and have it all done by a shop? i'd rather do as much myself as i can though. i like to learn things i dont know, and this is definately a learning experience. i have another bike i can salvage some parts from too (brake springs and washers/etc)

and why not get knobby tires? this bike is for dirt and trails. what tires should i get?

i have the brake cables. i need the shifter cables. i'll probably let a shop put that stuff together and adjust it. how much would that cost (roughly)? how much would it cost to take it in as it sits and have it all done by a shop? i'd rather do as much myself as i can though. i like to learn things i dont know, and this is definately a learning experience. i have another bike i can salvage some parts from too (brake springs and washers/etc),

Considering what you've done so far, I think you can do it. If you get the manuals for the shifters you have, it's not that bad. Also general instructions on tuning the shifting is available online (either park tools' website or sheldon brown's website). And that's something you're definitely going to want to know how to do, save you a lot of cash in the long run.

The shops I've been to, I would expect to pay a solid $75 and have your bike sit for a few weeks. Which is why I do my own work.



and why not get knobby tires? this bike is for dirt and trails. what tires should i get?
If it's for dirt, nothing wrong with knobby. Most people who post here are looking for a street bike, where you want slicks. But by all means, if you're not riding it on pavement, knobs are good.

it'll cost $75 to get the shifters and brakes adjusted? wow. i'll have to give it a shot first then. are the shifter cables and all related parts expensive? if i go in the shop, i'll have no idea what to ask for. also, how expensive are the trigger shifters? i like those much better and now would be a good time to make that swap.

ok, so i am missing a set of brake arm springs?
Not necessarily. The other set may have the springs built in. Note that front and rear are rarely interchangeable.


the 4 stainless bolts don't have washers, so i need those also.
You can try them without washers. Not all have them. If you add washers, be sure that they're not larger than the bolt head.

it'll cost $75 to get the shifters and brakes adjusted? wow. i'll have to give it a shot first then. are the shifter cables and all related parts expensive? if i go in the shop, i'll have no idea what to ask for.

No, adjustments are often free. But cutting and installing the cables and housings is no small task.

Figure $5 each for cables; housing is about $2.50 per foot. Odds and ends like ferrules, cable ends, and barrel adjusters, you get usually free with the job but can add up over the counter.

well i have this old huffy outback with almost the same exact grip shifters, and the same type brakes. so if i need them, i can go grab them from there. my big concern at this point is the shifter cables, and getting the right ones, and getting them to fit and work correctly. i think the shop will have to do that part.

just a thought... could i use the shifter cables off the above mentioned huffy? it's a MTB, and has the same grip shifters.

jco, nice job so far (I like the grease!). Go with the universal/generic inner tube (26" of course). Also, your brakes look to be V brakes, and should be pretty much the same front and rear (the pads would probably have to be switched from side to side, but that's it).
Go for new cables and housing -- they are pretty cheap, and worn housing and worn/corroded cables are a frequent cause of shifting issues.

You can get decent-quality "kits" that come with 2 cables, housing, and the little ferrules and end caps, such as this one for $13: http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15789-050_ALISF6-3-Parts-49-Cables/Alligator-Super-Fortress-Cable-Kit.htm

thanks! i went with the recommendation of the marine grease VS regular wheel grease. and i used a liberal amount too, so it's well lubed. :)

would that kit be cheaper than having a shop do it? i'm sure it would, but i really have no idea what i'm doing when it comes to cables and adjustments. i'm good with mechanics, but thats just out of my league.

FWIW, i just downloaded "Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies" maybe that'll help me out some.

oh, and here's a pic of my newest bike. It's a Schwinn 754 from 1989. still has original tires, and they are fairly decent. took it for a little 2 mile ride last night and she is pretty fast!

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/IMG_0001.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0730092312a.jpg

Yeah, you can use them to get started. Be aware that the housings may not be the right size, but you should be able to get them to work.

thanks! i went with the recommendation of the marine grease VS regular wheel grease. and i used a liberal amount too, so it's well lubed. :)

would that kit be cheaper than having a shop do it? i'm sure it would, but i really have no idea what i'm doing when it comes to cables and adjustments. i'm good with mechanics, but thats just out of my league.

FWIW, i just downloaded "Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies" maybe that'll help me out some.

It will definitely be cheaper to do it yourself, and proably faster too. Shops vary, but during the high season (ie, now) repair times can get crazy. Only time I ever took a bike into the shop, I wanted them to straighten my derailleur hanger. Easy if you have the tool. They quoted me three weeks, and I said no thanks.

If you're good with mechanics, then you can definitely do this. Shifters and brakes are easy to do a basic install, though as DMF says the work can be tedious. The mechanics of it are easy - all you have is a lever system. You pull the lever, the cable moves, it's connected to another lever arm (either a brake arm or derailer) that moves a certain amount and does some work. If it helps, check out your other bike and see how things move when you brake or shift gears.

Feel free to do a little at a time and post pictures with questions. The folks around here are always very willing to help people who really want to learn and listen to advice. Don't be intimidated; I used to be the same way but anything on a standard bike is really simple mechanically.

Good luck!

oh, and here's a pic of my newest bike. It's a Schwinn 754 from 1989. still has original tires, and they are fairly decent. took it for a little 2 mile ride last night and she is pretty fast!

Nice looking bike, but don't get too excited! Before you ride it again check at least one set of wheel bearings. Old grease dries up over time and leaves the bearings essentially without lubrication. You can destroy them within a few miles, worst case.

i know how to get the wheel off, and the skewer thing out, thats about it. how do i get to the bearings? i'll break them down, clean and re-grease.

Assuming front wheel, the outer bearing race screws onto the axle, followed by a lock nut. You need to put one wrench on the race and another on the lock nut and loosen the lock nut. (You might need a very thin "cone wrench" to pull this off.) Then the other side will pull out with the axle. Balls are (probably) captured by the races. There might also be a press-in metal dust shield involved.

There's a bit of an art to getting the right bearing pre-load on re-assembly. You don't want it too tight or too loose.

Rear is essentially the same save that you will likely have to remove the freewheel first. You may need to go to the LBS for this as there are about 8 different special tools and you have none of them...

Of at least as much concern is the bottom bracket. Take the wheel bearing as an indication of the level of maintenance, but plan to go into the BB shortly in any case.

jco - I would *strongly* suggest checking if your local library has either Zinn's or Downs' maintenance book (for mountain bikes in the case of the main bike you're working on). These books have good diagrams and discussions on the different types of brakes, shifters, wheel bearings, hubs, and so forth you might encounter, and instructions on how to service/install each type. They're not too expensive to buy on Amazon either (maybe $25 apiece?) if you decide you really like them.

ok, a little more to update...

i went out and bought some gear cables from the shop. this is what i have:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0801091749a.jpg

i didn't even start to install them because i really didn't know what the little parts are for, and where they should go. i could have winged it, but i want it to be right. i got a pic of the small parts (sorry for the crap quality again).

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/jco1385/0803090628b.jpg

it has black "o-rings", "sealed aluminum ferrules", and the little crimp things for the ends of the cables (can not recall the name). i'm not so sure where the ferrules and the o-rings should go. i'm thinking they somehow fit into the cable guides on the frame.

and i have this book:
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv129/333anubis/BikeRepairMaintenanceForDummies.jpg

i've read a little and it seems to help some. doesn't go too "in-depth" with much though. i'll have a look at the library and see if i can find the Zinn or Down books. oh, and i took a pretty nasty spill on my schwinn yesterday. a good bit of road rash and a nice gash in my knee. word of advice - don't go really fast around a muddy cul-de-sac on skinny tires. i took most of the hit, but i managed to knock the bars out of line with the front tire. easy fix.

any insight on the ferrules? i'm gonna drop by the shop where i got them this evening and see if they can point it out.

also, i pland to cut them with either a dremel (if i can find it) or a set of klines. i just read the thread on that, and those are the tools i have, so thats what i'll use.

Looks like you're coming along!

The wide metal things with holes in both ends (ferrules) go over the cut housing end before you put it into the cable stop on the frame. This helps keep the cut housing end in shape as it's compressed.

The narrow metal things are endcaps. Those go on the cut cable end, which you crimp with pliers. That keeps the cut cable end from fraying.

The black rubber things (donuts) are optional - you string them on the cable where it runs bare along the top tube, to keep the bare cable from rubbing on the paint. They never seem to work well, in my opinion. Your call.

If you need to, look at your other bike, search for pics on the web, or stop by a bike shop to see what it looks like. But it's pretty easy. Good luck.

thanks! i'm learning a lot doing this. and i'm asking the shop guys a lot of questions. they are very willing to help, not just after my money so that's a huge plus.

i have another question. the chain that is on the bike seems to be fine. a bit rusty but still well lubed and not frozen at all. i looked for a "master link" and didn't see any. is that possible? how would i get this chain off if i were to replace it? i think i might be able to still use it for now, but if i were to replace it, what would be a good chain to go with?

btw, i'm downloading these videos to help me out (i don't have the internet at home). are there any more out there you guys would recommend? i hope to get it ready for tires/tubes/alignment in the next day or so. i'm gonna have the shop swap out the BB because it's kind of notchy feeling. the guys said it was probably too tight or just worn out. it's a $16 part so i'll just swap it out. thanks for all the help. i'm liking this forum a lot.