Bicycle Mechanics - Kestrel Talon Internal Cable Routing...
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08-04-09, 12:05 AM
My '03 Talon was road-equipped, and I'm switching to TT/Tri. I had to pull the cables and housing. I've managed to get the rear brake cable/housing routed, but can't get anywhere with the FD and RD routing.
Kestrel on line is pretty much zilch. Are there any publications or tricks? I gave up tonight after about 2 hours.
08-04-09, 12:10 AM
Can't remember the specifics, but on the many Klein aluminum bikes with internal routing a helpful trick is to use a strong magnet, usually a cateye computer magnet in my case, to catch hold of the cable inside the tube to guide it to the exit. A hook made with wire can be helpful for fishing as well.
08-04-09, 07:58 AM
Thanks. LBS, since Kestrel started selling on line, has decided not to help much. Not as if LBS ever sold many Kestrels, just being childish.
I'm going to try a pipe cleaner in the back end to try and trap the feeder cable, and will also try some solid wire to see if I can get it to where I can even see it coming.
08-04-09, 08:11 AM
This same problem came up in the thread about internally wiring a bicycle frame and here is one technique I posted there too:
"One way to internally thread cables through frame tubes is to seal all but the entrance and exit holes and place a vacuum cleaner hose at the exit. Feed a piece of sewing thread into the entrance and let the vacuum "pull" it out the exit. Use the thread to pull a piece of heavier, stronger string through the holes and use the string to pull your wire."
08-04-09, 01:42 PM
I'll try that, too. Thanks. So far, nothing much is working. Can't see very well in there. I can get a piece of brake housing to go from one hole past the other, just can't capture it....
08-05-09, 07:19 PM
1-Removed the crank arm from the R side, the FD, also.
2-Removed the bolt-on cable guide for the FD (a piece of housing bent about 180 bolted to the frame)
3-Found a 3' piece of fairly rigid cable housing (clear outside a spiral core)
4-Straightened a nice, thin guage coat hangar, and left the spiral end intact, but straightened some.
For the FD, I inserted the coat hangar, looked in the bottom opening until I saw the end, took it out once, bent it, and re-inserted until I got it to come out the bottom. I pulled it gently through about 3", spun the cable housing onto it about 1", then slowly fed both back up through so I had housing coming out both ends of the frame. Then I pulled the hangar out, inserted my shifter cable, and ran it through, then pulled the housing out. The actual routing/mounting to the FD is a real pain on a Kestrel, but there's a reason for it: positive shifting.
For the RD, I basically repeated the process. No problem. Entire ordeal included 2 hours of fumbling, a couple nights of thinking about it, then 2 hours today and the bike is now outfitted with a Cervelo TT/Tri package and works just fine.
Thanks for the tips, guys.
the bike is now outfitted with a Cervelo TT/Tri package and works just fine.
Why did ya put such crappy parts on a Kestrel? LOL :roflmao2::roflmao2:
05-15-10, 09:16 PM
as i posted to another thread on the same subject, to get the rear derailleur cable through the down tube & chain stays, i inserted a cable housing through the outlet ports & it fairly easily found the inlet ports. i had no luck going in the other direction.
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