Bicycle Mechanics - Changing cross bike to road brake calipers

So, I have a Fuji Cross Pro (I know, I know...) and would like to change to road-bike-style dual-pivot calipers. I see holes in the fork and the bridge across the seatstays, but wanted to make sure if this meant I can install road-bike calipers, since those holes don't have the larger, flattened surfaces that the cantilever brake mounting points do, and that the water bottle braze-ons have. Does anyone know? I can add pics if necessary.

Aside from the possible issue of the holes being compatible (though this can probably be remedied), you likely will not be able to find road style brakes that you can reach the rim given your bike's geometry. I believe that even the deepest drop road calipers will still be ~10mm short of working properly on a typical cross frame.

Why do you want to get away from the cantilever brakes?

Once set up correctly, cantilever brakes are much more powerful than a standard road brake. Take the time to understand them and you will like them.

probably won't work, due to reach issues as mentioned above. but measure it and check for yourself?

probably won't work, due to reach issues as mentioned above. but measure it and check for yourself?

Yeah, 1 measurement is worth 1,000 guesses. You need to know the vertical distance from the brake mounting hole to the rim's brakeing surface. While you're at it, measure the size of the holes in the fork crown and rear brake bridge to see if they are big enough to handle modern recessed nut brake calipers.

Aside from the possible issue of the holes being compatible (though this can probably be remedied), you likely will not be able to find road style brakes that you can reach the rim given your bike's geometry. I believe that even the deepest drop road calipers will still be ~10mm short of working properly on a typical cross frame.

Why do you want to get away from the cantilever brakes?

Dual-pivot calipers are available in up to 73mm reach:
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?&d=single&item_id=TK-R556R
These might work for a 'cross frame.

But I agree- what's wrong with cantilever brakes? Or, for that matter... peace, love, and understanding?

If for whatever reason you can't accept your cantilevers, you can try V-brakes. The Tektro V-brakes that came on my Tricross work well, at least, now that I'm using Travel Agents so they work better with my late model Tiagra levers.

Have you looked into some Shimano BR-R550's?

I swear this thing likes to eat my responses sometimes... yesterday I wrote in that I wanted to swap to full Rival, which includes dual-pivots, and I understand that dual-pivots require a different amount of cable pull from cantilevers, so I figured I would have to swap the brakes as well (and I think canti's look ungainly, and mine are weak, but if I can't swap them, I'll see about making them stronger; they're already very tight).

I swear this thing likes to eat my responses sometimes... yesterday I wrote in that I wanted to swap to full Rival, which includes dual-pivots, and I understand that dual-pivots require a different amount of cable pull from cantilevers, so I figured I would have to swap the brakes as well (and I think canti's look ungainly, and mine are weak, but if I can't swap them, I'll see about making them stronger; they're already very tight).

Dual-pivots and cantilevers use the same cable pull, but direct-pull cantilevers (linear pull or V brakes) are different.

No way you can fit a short-reach Rival brakeset on that Fuji. You'll need some much bigger, weaker caliper brakes, with lots more reach than the Rival brakes.

l (and I think canti's look ungainly, and mine are weak, but if I can't swap them, I'll see about making them stronger; they're already very tight).

I think there is something even more ungainly about long reach caliper brakes on a bike designed for cantilevers. Especially with the empty studs just sitting there.

As far as adjustment, it's a lot more than simply making sure they sit close to the rim

http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html

Because you have so much control over so many variables, setup can be difficult, but the results are worth it.

...I have a Fuji Cross Pro (I know, I know...)...

Just wondering... were you expecting some sort of lecture for some reason? Is there something wrong with Fujis or Cross bikes that makes bike snobs cringe? If there is I have not heard of it.

those holes don't have the larger, flattened surfaces that the cantilever brake mounting points do, and that the water bottle braze-ons have. Does anyone know? I can add pics if necessary.

Front fork is the same fork used on the Roubaix Pro, which has calipers. Looking at the bike my knee-jerk is that they'll fit.

What's with the "i know, I know" in the original post regarding the Cross Pro? Inquiring minds want to know.

It is, to my understanding, a Performance Bikes exclusive, and over at the Road forum, that's not exactly loved. Guess this place is more accepting.

Hmm... my canti's have one wire coming down that hooks into a second wire that connects the two main pieces. Direct-pull?

Anyway, I'm heading to the bike co-op this evening anyway, so I'll see what they say. The fork is actually slightly different from the one on the Roubaix (has "Cross" in the name), so who knows.

Read this and the Sheldon link above to understand how canti's work and how to make them perform better.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=559264

I've got about 2000 miles on a cross bike with 2009 SRAM Rival levers and tektro CR720 cantilevers. That combo feels better to me (i know this is subjective) than my road bike with Ultegra (6500) levers and calipers. Doesn't feel spongy, feels very direct with a relatively short amount of lever travel. Someone above also mentioned Shimano BR-550s, I can second a vote for them as well though so far I prefer the tektro 720s. Good luck.

Second vote for the 720's. Great brake for $25. I paired it with the IRD CAFAM in the rear and my cross bike (Cannondale CX9) has great braking performance.

I would like to know why you want to make this switch. The Avid Shorty 4 brakes (that's what you have, right?) are highly rated. I think moving away from them can be useless at best and a downgrade at worst.

I'm not sure where you are reading but I've never heard of shorty 4's being "highly rated". When I have them they would squeal like a stuck pig and nothing I did helped that. They had enough power but the noise was crazy.

Did you toe them in? We recently had a thread on alleviating the squeal of cantilever brakes.

I googled "avid shorty 4" and found lots of good reviews. I haven't worked with them, though.

Hmm... my canti's have one wire coming down that hooks into a second wire that connects the two main pieces. Direct-pull?

No. That's a traditional center-pull cantilever.

Sheldon's articles on brakes tend to be scattered across his site. Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake) has a pretty good description of the major types.

Did you toe them in? We recently had a thread on alleviating the squeal of cantilever brakes.

I googled "avid shorty 4" and found lots of good reviews. I haven't worked with them, though.

I toed them in, changed pads (several times), greased the canti stud and moved the cable stop to the fork. I upgraded to IRD CAFAMS and all the problems went away and I had much better braking performance. This was on my Poprad, on my Cannondale CX9 I went for the tektro 720's and they were perfect out of the gate, even with a full carbon steerer (Easton ec90X).