Mountain Biking - Some more questions/opinions needed

I enjoy my New Kona thoroughly, But I have realized it's slightly on the heavy side.

I am making up my christmas list, so everything I'm asking yall about is just so I can hope I get some of it.:thumb:

I'm just looking to shed some weight, starting with the saddle and seat post area, as the WTB Speed V isn't working for me right now.


I was thinking of getting a more race orientated saddle, and the ones with the TI rails seem nice.

Is the Sette Rez TI any improvement at all?
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/19371-270_SETRZ9-3-Parts-67-Saddles/Sette-Rez-Ti-Saddle.htm


My next question is, I am thinking of venturing into the world of Carbon fiber.... :twitchy::eek:

But I love my Thomson I have on the Trek.... What would you guys go with, a Decent Carbon Seatpost in the 80-100 dollar range, or a Thomson, which is in the same range?

The current stem on the Kona, I'm not sure if I like it.. (I'm unsure of the measurements of it right now, but will double check) I'm going to research and experiment with different heights and rises. I was also thinking Thomson on this, as they are strong yet light.
I saw Easton makes a carbon stem, but IDK if I want a carbon stem, and it's only 10 grams lighter than the Thomson.
My Current bars are O/S if that helps at all.

The Bars, I haven't really found anything wrong with them, but I've never ridden anything besides aluminum risers. I don't know what the advantages or disadvantages of a flat bar are.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13831-195_EASE95-3-Parts-62-Handlebars/Mountain/Easton-Monkeylite-SL-Carbon-Riser-Handlebar-2008.htm
Seems nice, and a bit lighter than the stock kona Bars.


A Upgrade I've found I will need in the near(er) future is brakes. The Hayes Soles are good for slowing down... that's about it. Stopping proves to be a rather hard and tedious task. I've checked, and double checked and they are set up really good with the correct rotor spacing and pad adjustment and etc.
I found a bolt on the lever is already coming loose, So my trust in the Soles is dimishing.

To add to the issue, my BB7 on the Trek is Killing the Soles in stopping power and feel. I feel like I can stop faster, and have more power backing the stop with the BB7 than I do with both soles....

I've been eying up some Avid Juicy Carbon Hydros for a bit now, I've heard they perform well, (Seems Avid has a good name in the brake business) and the carbon adds some bling.
But so darned expensive lol...

Any ideas?

I haven't thrown out the idea of slightly used hydros... I'm just weary of who I'd be buying from, and what they did to them.

I realize that a lot of weight will be saved in the fork/wheels area... but I am not insane... yet. There are absolutely no performance issues with the fork yet, and it'd be stupid to even think about replacing it on my part yet. The wheel seem decent and strong. I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I destroy them :rolleyes: but then and only then will I upgrade them.

I'm trying to pick apart the parts of the Dawg that I feel I can make better and more comfortable, and gain some other performance virtues as well.



Any ideas / input?

I have the shields up, as I'm expecting some flammage because I just got the bike, and I know I should be happy (which I am) and I should just ride the thing, but Like I said, the stuff I, (and help from Y'all) determine will go on an Christmas list and from there it's only hope =) lol.

oh...


I forgot to add

"The Official need help and opinions because I'm a Hack" to the title
lol.

I would just ride it. It's a lot like my Enduro, a bit heavy but but still able to pedal about everywhere.

Go with the Elixirs on brakes(save you some coin)
Don't go with flat bars.

........I need to start an "official" thread.

lol!
"I would just ride it. It's a lot like my Enduro, a bit heavy but but still able to pedal about everywhere."

I agree there... I'll admit... the thing climbs rather well.... All the horror stories about full suspensions on hills, as long as I don't stand and mash I experience hardly any pedal bob. and I found it rather quick on the descents. That's where I would catch up to the people I was riding with.

The saddle has to go though, unless it needs a "break in" period.. For some reason it just "pinches' and doesn't feel good.

Thanks for the tip on brakes.

Ill just make this the Official My Question thread lol.


For the pivot points and bearings and all that on my bike, Should I take any special care in maintenance? The terrain here varies from sandy, rocky, dirt, clay, dusty muddy trails... We have a lot of red sandstone ( our areas known for it) and it erodes into large sand deposits.

I've been wiping the dirt and dust away from the pivot points, and the last muddy ride I used a very light, soft spray of water to get all the mud off the drive train/ downtube etc.

I think you've got the year mixed up on your sig.

As for the other stuff. I'd do the saddle then the brakes, then if you really want, all the other crap.

No.

My Trek is actually "newer" than my Dawg.

My dawk has sat on the shop floor since 2007 lol.

i have a thought about your brakes. you may try bleeding them...since as you just stated they have been sitting on a shop floor for 2 almost 3 years unused getting banged around and who knows what. could be some air in the lines not allowing for full stopping power.

just don't bleed the Hayes Sole's by your self! The Screws that hold the resevoir caps are prone to stripping, if you don't watch the tourque specs. Even then they are not comparible to a good set of hydros or even BB 7's

I have a free tuneup still, I'm going to ask them to bleed them for me (I dont have a bleed kit) and due to there being DOT 3 brake fluid in them, I don't want to risk spilling it on my Paint, as DOT brake fluid dissolves paint lol.

This way if they spill it on there... I can get free stuff =)
lol.

Don't you have a Thomson seatpost and stem on your other bike? Why not just use them and put the heavier stuff on the hardtail?

Easton Monkeylite bars are great. Stick with the riser though.

I have Juicy 5's and the stopping power is fantastic. Unless you really want the weight savings or prefer organic to sintered pads, you probably don't need the Ultimates. I would have liked the contact point adjustment on the 7's, but the 5's came with the bike and stop me so well that I don't see a real reason to upgrade. They're light years better than the El Caminos I have on my hardtail anyway, and even those aren't terrible.

I know you said you don't want to upgrade the wheels (understandably so, my wheels are the heavieset and lowest grade thing on my bike, but upgrading is expensive), but what about tubes and tires? Going to ultralight tubes and lighter tires is a pretty large weight savings, and in rotating weight no less.

Don't you have a Thomson seatpost and stem on your other bike? Why not just use them and put the heavier stuff on the hardtail?

Easton Monkeylite bars are great. Stick with the riser though.

I have Juicy 5's and the stopping power is fantastic. Unless you really want the weight savings or prefer organic to sintered pads, you probably don't need the Ultimates. I would have liked the contact point adjustment on the 7's, but the 5's came with the bike and stop me so well that I don't see a real reason to upgrade. They're light years better than the El Caminos I have on my hardtail anyway, and even those aren't terrible.

I know you said you don't want to upgrade the wheels (understandably so, my wheels are the heavieset and lowest grade thing on my bike, but upgrading is expensive), but what about tubes and tires? Going to ultralight tubes and lighter tires is a pretty large weight savings, and in rotating weight no less.

Unfortunately my Thomson on my trek is a 31.6 (? I'm trying to go off memory) my Kona is the next size smaller... (30. something?) so that was a bit of a disappointment. But.. I have no problem supporting Thomson as I rode their Trail and parked in their parking lot several times a week when I was in Georgia.


I have Maxxis Ignitors now, and love them thus far, so I will wear them out b4 I change them..

I haven't taken them off the rim yet so IDK how heavy they are, or what tubes are in there lol.

Thanks for the information and tips again,

I worked at an LBS for many years and sold lots of lightweight stuff to folks with big wallets. I hated it because I knew they weren't really getting any bang for the buck. If I didn't sell it to them, someone else would...Why not get some nice equipment you'd normally not have and be detectable while riding? Perhaps some killer LED lights so you can ride the trails at night? Or new shoes much better than you'd usually buy? Some nice shorts, rain gear? Second set of wheels with cool hubs like Chris Kings? Tubeless?

I worked at an LBS for many years and sold lots of lightweight stuff to folks with big wallets. I hated it because I knew they weren't really getting any bang for the buck. If I didn't sell it to them, someone else would...Why not get some nice equipment you'd normally not have? Perhaps some killer LED lights so you can ride the trails at night? Or new shoes much better than you'd usually buy? Some nice shorts, rain gear? Second set of wheels with cool hubs like Chris Kings? Tubeless?

I like my Shimano MTN Shoes though :p

Chris kings would be nice... but a bit outta my price range, and it'd look rather weird paired with Sun SOS rims lol.

IDK, I just want to drop the bike out of the 30 pound club and into the higher 20's.
theres A LOT of climbing around here. The other riders have 5,000 carbon framed 29ers with carbon everything and they just fly up/down (they're also in better shape than myself" but having a non-lockout dually weighing in the 30's doesnt help.


This is all farther down the road, or for Christmas presents though, so I'm sure by then Ill Cheeto (break/destroy) some of these parts I'm looking at replacing.

Ha ha! It's funny, YOU using the word Cheeto....:lol:

Things that have made me a much better climber than last year:

- 29er HT with lockout fork
- Nevegals
- lost 40lbs from my fat a$$ :p

why don't you put your bb7s on the Kona? Smaller tubes/tires would be the best way to save weight.

I'd use a thompson seatpost over a carbon one . I stay away from Ti railed seatposts on MTB too (too much coin + break easier). My 2cents...

If you ever get the urge to upgrade anything on your mtb, start with your wheels. You will get the best bang for your buck here, typically.

If you aren't willing to spend the coin for new wheels, then you don't really need to upgrade.

why don't you put your bb7s on the Kona? Smaller tubes/tires would be the best way to save weight.

I only have 1 lol,

Trek 3900 doesnt have rear disk tabs, and I didn't want to fiddle around with an adapter...

more to break. lol


(if you cant beat em, join em siu)

If you can't beat them, BE them......