Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - Chip N Seal and carbon handlebars? carbon frame?

Wondering whether carbon handlebars would reduce the buzz from my ti-frame carbon fork bike.
Hate that chip N seal.
How much would a carbon frame help?

Wondering whether carbon handlebars would reduce the buzz from my ti-frame carbon fork bike.
Hate that chip N seal.
How much would a carbon frame help?


It depends on how far you are going. Carbon does dampen certain vibrations better than other materials but I don't think it's cumulative effects are noticeable until the miles start adding up ie.well over 100. Additionally you can probably do it cheaper by going to a bigger tire and/or more compliant wheels.

Like Homeyba said, I noticed on my last build that a 3X lacing pattern on the wheels, especially front, really helps absorb chip seal. I even rode my old bike with just that new front wheel swapped in to make a good comparison. It was night and day. My old bike had a radially laced front wheel.

+1 for the 3x lacing.

I had Bontrager RL's (low spoke count/paired) that rode nice, but stiff. Due to repetitive cracking of the rear, I built up a set of Open Pros with both front and rear having a 3x pattern. The first thing I noticed was the difference in ride feel - came home and told my wife/LBS the bike felt "more lively". After 1500 miles, I think I want something a little stiffer for climbing, but these really make long miles on rough country roads more enjoyable.

Also I don't know about anymore comfort from carbon compared to Ti. I've herd Ti can be fairly soft riding too - just depends on how the frame is designed. Having been on carbon since '93, I'm ready to go back to a metal (probably Ti) frame. Guess the grass is always greener.

I think going to a bigger tire is the main thing you can do. I would go to 25 or 28mm.

As others have said going to a larger tire and decreasing pressure at the same time will make a big difference. I've also found that certain tires absorb more road buzz than others, my 23c GP4000S ride much better than 25c gatorskins.

Added some Blackburn Buzz Kills today. You replace the bar end plugs with them. They make a a good bit of difference. I recommend them. They were $9.95 and well worth it.

I'm running the Bontrager buzz-kills, but found they did MUCH less than varying the tire size/pressure/wheel set. Talking to some guys at the LBS yesterday, and carbon bars don't really help that much.

Just tossing in my $0.02

Switching to carbon bars didn't make a noticeable difference on my Ti frame. I have about six sets of wheels and the difference in ride quality between them is very small. But you can make a difference with tires. First, stop pumping them up so hard. Most riders use too much pressure. I follow the weight-based recommendations on the Michelin package, even for other brands of tires. I used to use 110 or 120 psi but now I am down to 100. I'm just as fast but the bike rides better and as a bonus, I get fewer flats.

Wider tires can help too but only because you can run even lower pressures without worry of pinch flats. I'm already running a pretty low pressure.

Another thing you can do is to get good bar tape. I like a cork tape with gel, like Cinnelli's. Another thing to do is to use good gloves whose padding isn't worn out. I've gone through a lot of gloves because I have problems with the nerves in my hands. Currently my favorite is the Specialized BG Comp. The pads go all the way across the heel of the hand, covering the part in the middle that gives me problems (and is not padded with most gloves). I replace gloves once or twice a year, before the padding's too far gone.

I think going to a bigger tire is the main thing you can do. I would go to 25 or 28mm.

+1!!!! Going with wider (and lower pressure) tires will do FAR more for comfort than diddling around with carbon this that or something else, fancy wheels, etc,etc,etc. And no, wider tires won't slow you down, as long as they're comparable quality to what you've got now. I vote for Michelin Pro Race howevermanyitisthisweek, in the 25mm width. They're fast, smooth, corner like they're on rails, and quite durable, IME.

SP
Bend, OR

Tried Continental Sport Contacts @ 32mm. Too much. About to try Continental Grand Prix 4 seasons in 28mm size.
May put some closed cell foam on bar tops. 4 surgeries on my shoulders may be the reason my hands go numb much faster than "down there" goes numb from the saddle.

Tried Continental Sport Contacts @ 32mm. Too much. About to try Continental Grand Prix 4 seasons in 28mm size.
May put some closed cell foam on bar tops. 4 surgeries on my shoulders may be the reason my hands go numb much faster than "down there" goes numb from the saddle.

Why not try Grand Bois in 28mm, or Panaracer Pasela (not the Tour Guard, they ride a bit harsher and slower) in the same width? Getting tires that are marketed as durable, pretty much guarantees the ride won't be especially comfortable.

Getting tires that are marketed as durable, pretty much guarantees the ride won't be especially comfortable.

Ditto for "puncture proof" tires. And, as a rule, they're slower than molasses at 30 below too.

SP
Bend, OR

Tried the GP4seasons 28mm at 100psi rear, 90 psi front on my new Specialized Roubaix. Could be a nice ride except for the nasty Utah chipseal.
Would go back to my TiRex recumbent except the climbs are 8-19% around here.

Now plan to move the front tire to my wheel with the Pantour hub.