Hybrid Bicycles - Looking for the fastest hybrid I can buy

related threads i started are
here http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=571601&page=3 and
here http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=573108


I bought a Trek FX 7.2 and sold it a couple days ago realizing that I need something faster while still sticking to the Hyrbid/upright riding position.... i do not commute with it. i use it for fitness for 20-30 mile rides, sometimes in jeans and a tshirt.



I've narrowed it down to a few options....

1) An Orbea Diem - all carbon bike. http://www.orbea-usa.com/fly.aspx?layout=bikes&pid=167&taxid=74 cost = $2k

2) Buy an fx 7.3 and upgrade EVERYTHING on it to make it comparable to the fx 7.9 (looking at upgrading wheels (open pro with ultegra hubs), cranks, f/r drailers and shifters to everything shimano/ultegra) cost: bike + upgrades + tuneup at a shop = $1600

3) buying a trek 7.7 or 7.9 cost: was quoted $1770 for a 7.7 ............


Since we now have a hybrid forum, i suppose others are in my same/similar position or can give me a good idea on what i should be getting..... and yes, i understand a lot of the speed depends on the rider but i am simply looking for something that gives me similar speed to a roadbike minus the hunched back position that would kill me in manhattan traffic.

Maybe all your bike needs is a better motor.;)

Option 1. You'd probably like it.

Option 2. This makes no sense at all.

Option 3. May as well.

You seem to be impetuous and I'm guessing have a fair amount of disposable income. The issue is not so much what you need as what you want. Flat bar roadbike perhaps?

Check out the Giant FCR. Feels and rides much more like a road bike than most hybrids I've thrown a leg over.

not impetuous - just got into biking and don't want to make another wrong decision. my fx 7.2 was great so i bought it but i quickly got addicted and wanted something much quicker/higher end.....

this is why im not jumping to buy another bike so soon. i am still narrowing down options. if i was impetuous, i would have a 7.9 already and i would not be on this forum looking to learn more about bikes ;-)

i decided im spending up to $2k on a new bike. i simply want to be sure that the one i choose is the best use of my $2k. i would prefer the dollar to value ratio extremely high so i would not second guess my purchase the following day ;-D

I really like the appearance of the Obrea Diem and the geometry is pretty close to the Trek. If i had it to 'do over' I might well have purchased the Obrea but no local shop supports the brand.

Now I am researching upgrading the wheel set on the 7.7 FX.

Best of luck solving your dilema..

^ This is sort of my dilema... I have not heard of Orbea but the bike shop told me if you're spending that kind of dough, it should be all carbon. Orbea's high-end bikes are really popular and highly rated but i have not heard of anything on this model... so i am hesitant to put $2k into a bike i literally have no information about. ALSO, the wheels that come on this high end carbon $2k bike are.... maybe $200 at best.... really cheap wheels... so that makes me wonder why they would put such high end parts/frame together with such low end wheels...... this tells me i have to spend $2k and another few hundred to get nicer wheels.... if that's the case, i may as well just jump to the 7.9 ......................

why are you upgrading the wheels on your 7.7? any reason?

Take a look at the Specialized Sirrus. I have the Expert with carbon seat stays and fork. It is more of a flat bar road bike than a hybrid tho. I put 23c tires on it instead of the 28's it came with. If what you want is speed you might be happier with a road bike than a hybrid/flat bar. I went with the sirrus because I wanted as fast a bike as possible but I have back problems and found the more upright position better for me.

I think the poster wants a flat bar fast road bike. A hybrid is not built for speed. Its built for getting people and things from point A to point B. If one is looking for speed, the road cycling forum is more suited to checking out that option.

The 7.1 - 7.7 FX bikes are plenty fast as hybrids go. Maybe you should be looking for a road-bike that can be adapted to flat bars.

^ panthers, #1 congrats we have a hybrid forum. #2, i love your bike! ;-D

re: flat bar road bike -- bingo. that's exactly what i want but i am unable to find a model like that.... there are some fast hybrids out there. i simply would like to average about 15mph on my trips and have a top speed of like 35mph..... on my lower end trek 7.2, i was averaging 10-11mph and my top speed was 26mph... so i know i am in the right class of bikes... i just gotta get one with the components that will make achieving those speeds easier.... it would be nice to coast at 15mph....

+1 for a better motor then. I average 16 mph on my hybrid.

The idea of a better wheelset intrigues me. What sort of wheels do you run now?

why are you upgrading the wheels on your 7.7? any reason?

I am a 232 lb masher. I expect the Bontys to crack within the next 500 miles.

I think the poster wants a flat bar fast road bike. A hybrid is not built for speed. Its built for getting people and things from point A to point B. If one is looking for speed, the road cycling forum is more suited to checking out that option.

He is looking at the variety of hybrids that are of marketed as "flat bar road bikes". Anything from Orbea is nice, but a real Orbea road bike converted to hybrid would be much nicer. Many who choose "flat bar road" style hybrids would prefer a top end road bike fitted with flat bars, but the cost is much, much different even before you look at swapping out the bars, shifters/brake levers, grips and probably stem.

I agree with 007, if you are thinking about spending $2000, a road bike conversion would be worth looking at.

+1 for a better motor then. I average 16 mph on my hybrid.

The idea of a better wheelset intrigues me. What sort of wheels do you run now?

the speeds i mentioned were on the stock wheels on my 7.2 with 35mm tires... since the bike was brand new, i didnt want put another $50 or more into getting 28mm tires.... i was fixed on getting a new bike altogether with 28's on it which is why i sold the 7.2 ;-D

when i had the tires pumped to max psi, the bike rode like a dream. so smooth, so fast and it just kept rolling and rolling and rolling....... i'm getting either 25mm or 28mm on the next bike im getting and im going to inflate the bejesus outta them to achieve the best rolling speed... lol :roflmao2:

that Orbea Diem looks like a road bike with straight bars. I think you should be looking to buy that instead of a "fast hybrid". sounds like you have the budget. Good luck!

^ the lack of reviews, durability feedback among other things is what makes me really hesitate on getting the diem... if i spend $2k on a trek, i know it's a quality bike with a great warranty.... with the the orbea, i dont know.... plus, the wheels that come on this bike are $179.99 on universal cycles which makes me wonder is it worth paying that much for this bike.......

with the treks, any fx model, has outstanding reviews on the whole. people have had fx models for 2-3 years with great things to be said about them..... if i put $2k into the orbea, i am literally placing a $2k bet, IMO.... i know orbea has other models with rave reviews but this particular model doesnt have any

08 C-Dale Road Warrior One. I got this before the company got new ownership and
started making the Quest.

no matter what modern bike you buy you'll be wearing out the chain; rear cog and crank after 1000 miles or so, right?

Carpe Diem. Seize the day! Orbea>Trek. Dude, it's a carbon Orbea. Ride the cheap wheels until they bust, then upgrade. Thank me later.

^ okay.... $2k for the bike and then replace the wheels with good ones.... for maybe $500-$700....

that's $2700 - the price of the trek 7.9.........

i have not completely ruled the orbea diem out but i am listing my pro's and con's for and against all the bikes i've listed.... i wish this decision was easy to make.... i'm about to collapse on my laptop thinking about this.... LOL

no matter what modern bike you buy you'll be wearing out the chain; rear cog and crank after 1000 miles or so, right?

yes but i would gladly be willing to pay $300-$400 to replace components than to pay $700 to replace wheels or even more to replace a 'bad quality' carbon frame.... the treks have enough history where i can put even $5k into a trek bike and not doubt it's quality. since orbea is 'new' to the US compared to trek, they dont have that history and therefore, they do not have my trust. LOL


moreover - even the 'lower end' trek carbon frames (TCT carbon) are used on their top of the line Madone series bikes... that says something right there... even their low end carbon frames are quality since they are not afraid to put the madone name on them....

let's see if this helps ...: why not buy a nice old steel road bike and put straight bars on it? I think you can do it for a lot less money, huh? like thousands less, right?

no matter what modern bike you buy you'll be wearing out the chain; rear cog and crank after 1000 miles or so, right?

Not if you keep them clean and lubricated........

I think those components wear regardless of how well they are maintained. Kinda like brake pads/shoes on a car, you know?

Oh, I didn't realize the Trek was carbon also. Nice wheels wear out as fast as cheap ones, so you are looking at new rims down the line anyway. You know more about these bikes than me, but the Orbea looks cheap compared to the carbon Trek.

$2000 Orbea vs. $2700 Trek. Orbea is a very reputable company. There is no reason to think the Orbea frame will be more likely to fail than the Trek.

^ agreed but i would rather rely on user-ratings of the orbea diem. there is only 1 review of the bike that i found online which is why i am heistant. even if it is quality, i'd rather see a bunch of favorable reviews of it before putting $2k into it....


ps, the trek 7.9 (not the 7.7) is an all-carbon (txt carbon) frame. that material is also used on their higher end (but on the lower side of the scale) madone road/race bikes which is why i trust them wholeheartedly.

i saw the diem in person and will be test riding one this upcoming weekend. it does look really good though but, again, i am trying hard not to buy something that just looks new and shiny and pretty.

the shop i went to was building a smaller frame diem and the guy building it told me to hold the handle bar.. man... i could not believe it... the entire bar seriously weight as much as a pen...... my jaw was on the floor and i felt like my eyes were playing tricks on me ^_^

As I've only seen very high end Orbeas here in the USA, I kind of think of them as a top quality bicycle, while Trek makes lots of cheap bikes. I've never ridden either brand, much less either bike, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I think the Orbea would be as reliable as a Trek but there is always a chance of a failure. I think both companies will stand behind their product warranty if the cause is from defective construction.

Something else for your consideration.
http://www.pinarello.com/ita/treviso_red.php

Have you test ridden the 7.5? We've got a 7.2 and 7.5 in the garage and they are very different bikes.

Orbea does make a high quality bike but their distribution and service may not be at par with what you would get with a bigger company like Trek or Specialized.

A carbon hybrid would be lighter but you are still going to be limited by your riding position as the biggest obstacle to overcome when you want to go fast is wind resistance.

When I switched from flat bars to drop bars on my hybrid and went with lighter and better wheels my speed picked up enough that I could hang with roadies on some very brisk group rides.

A cross bike would also be a good option... I am seeing more and more cross bikes being used as commuters and tourers and with the right setup these will be nearly as fast as most road bikes.

"A carbon hybrid would be lighter but you are still going to be limited by your riding position as the biggest obstacle to overcome when you want to go fast is wind resistance."

True, but he is looking for the fastest bike that will allow him to ride in his preferred position.

Have you checked out Marin bikes?

http://www.marinbikes.com/2009/us/bikes/bikes_series_alp.php

A friend of mine has one of their bikes. They are nice and fast.

I have a Marin Mill Valley, but OP needs something better than that. The carbon Marin hybrid is $2730. Hey, do you suppose carbon fiber hybrids are for people with too much money and not enough common sense? Just an idea that occurred to me.

Thanks for the link fatboy. Just checked out the Marin Mill Valley.:thumb:

gmsdc - you are right - that's exactly what they are for - ppl with too much $.... i agree 100%... which is why i am again leaning towards the 7.7........ i mean, the 7.7 is still quite pricey but i went to an awesome dealer over the weekend that gave me a quote of $1,770 for a 2010 7.7 fx.... that's $200 off of MSRP and i think i can talk him down...... i might go to him with $1600 in cash and tell him take it or leave it.... if he says he wants more, i'll simply leave.

thanks sixty fiver and gmsdc. yes, i am well aware that the upright position will hinder speed. i am WELL AWARE of that since 45 ppl on this forum have told me so :-D

at the end of todays workday, i am leaning towards the 7.7................

I really think that the best option for speed / comfort would be a cross bike and with cross levers and a little higher bar height you can still maintain a more upright and heads up position with quick access to brakes.

The riding position would be be more aerodynamic and if one retained the drop bars it offers up more hand positions and gives you the ability to get really low when circumstances allow.

This is about as versatile a set up as one can get and they do make some beautiful cross bikes in your price range.

A Kona Jake the Snake lists for $1300.00

no matter what modern bike you buy you'll be wearing out the chain; rear cog and crank after 1000 miles or so, right?

That's not true. A chain will last a minimum of 1000 miles. Many people get at least 2000 miles. You usually can go through 2-3 chains before you have to worry about the rear. Cranksets can last 20,000 miles.

I picked up about 3 mph average going from a Trek 7500 to a Trek 7.6fx, the fx is a lot faster everywhere. The fx has 700x28 tires vs. the 700x35 tires on the old bike, and runs 120 psi vs. 80 psi, that seems to help a lot with rolling speed.

Are you sure a 28C tire should be inflated to 120psi? Most 28C's I've seen specify 90 to 100psi.

I got back into riding this year (50 years old), bought a 7.2 fx...added Conti Ultra Gatorskins 28s run at 100psi, added clipless pedals and am averaging 15-17mph on rides of 20-75 miles. The combination of the 2 add-ons made a considerable difference.

Are you sure a 28C tire should be inflated to 120psi? Most 28C's I've seen specify 90 to 100psi.

Yeah, they're Bontrager Race Lite Hardcase tires, says 120psi. max on the side of the tire, so I've been running them from 100-120psi.

gmsdc - you are right - that's exactly what they are for - ppl with too much $.... i agree 100%... which is why i am again leaning towards the 7.7........ i mean, the 7.7 is still quite pricey but i went to an awesome dealer over the weekend that gave me a quote of $1,770 for a 2010 7.7 fx.... that's $200 off of MSRP and i think i can talk him down...... i might go to him with $1600 in cash and tell him take it or leave it.... if he says he wants more, i'll simply leave.

thanks sixty fiver and gmsdc. yes, i am well aware that the upright position will hinder speed. i am WELL AWARE of that since 45 ppl on this forum have told me so :-D

at the end of todays workday, i am leaning towards the 7.7................
Value that dealers assistance, service and presence... I know a good deal is nice to brag about but service is SO MUCH a part of the deal/ownership experience. My bike shop knows me by name, ALWAYS takes care of me when walking in the door or stops to answer my questions. They fit my bike to me, and re-fit it 2 additional times as i "grew" into my ride... Don't cheap out your bike shop.

Read this entire thread, you need to buy a flat bar road bike dude. With proper fitting and geometry on the newer bikes- your selling yuorself short on this hybrid thing. GET a road bike!:thumb:

Read this entire thread, you need to buy a flat bar road bike dude. With proper fitting and geometry on the newer bikes- your selling yuorself short on this hybrid thing. GET a road bike!:thumb:

While the 7.7 is perfect for me....I tend to agree that you (the OP) should put some consideration into the road bike w/flat bars option if speed is your main criteria.

The bars on the 7.7 will open you up like a sail as previously stated. Pedaling into a headwind on the 7.7 is great for training and building endurance....but I wouldn't want to do it for very long.

More expensive bikes can do a lot of things, but they can't repeal the laws of physics -

- Your speed is limited by air resistance

- Air resistance is determined by your position on the bike

- If you don't flatten out (or become much stronger!) then you won't go any faster

I would suggest Areo Bars but that is stating the obvious.

When my mission for-the-day is going fast and working on cadence, I leave my hybrid behind and take out my vintage PUCH intermediate-racer. With a 12-25T Miche cassette and vintage 1982 Campagnolo SR 42-52T cranks - this would leave my hybrid in the weeds.

Always use the right tool for the job.

While the 7.7 is perfect for me....I tend to agree that you (the OP) should put some consideration into the road bike w/flat bars option if speed is your main criteria.


This would be pointless. Why do you imagine otherwise?



The bars on the 7.7 will open you up like a sail as previously stated. Pedaling into a headwind on the 7.7 is great for training and building endurance....but I wouldn't want to do it for very long.

And why would things be different on a racing frame with the same rider position?

Otoh, if it is just the ***width*** of the bars on a hybrid, a few minutes with a $10 pipecutter or a vice and hacksaw will chop them down - they should be about shoulder width for general road riding without heavy panniers or a trailer.

I would suggest Areo Bars but that is stating the obvious.

It's doubtful that a rider who won't switch to a less upright frame will use aero-bars. It would be pretty illogical of him if he would!

Another thing to keep in mind - Niagara Bicycle has a set of Origin 8, bolt on, mini-drops, which can be added to flat type bars for more hand positions, and help getting more aero. Less than $20.

They go on just like bar ends, just facing down, and swept back. Just like mini drops. Flop your stem, and get 'em even lower - if that's your thing. It would be easy, and quick, to flop the stem, at your whim, which would change your hand/body positions, by several inches.

My next order from them just might include a set.http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=15300

http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=15300