Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - wrist problems track drops

Hello All,

I've been using some track drops recently for riding around town, when I'm on the bike it feels fine, but afterwards my inner wrists are sore, which I'm assuming are from the cocked angle my wrists are at (I ride mostly the top of the drops). Has anyone else experienced this and can attribute this to the handlebars? I switched from bullhorns that angle my wrists the other way and I had no problem with those handlebars. Just wanted to see if I should change these out before my wrists get worse

How much/how long? It could be that the bars aren't well-suited to you, but also that the bars have you using hand positions that engage muscles that you're not used to using.

Hello All,

I've been using some track drops recently for riding around town, when I'm on the bike it feels fine, but afterwards my inner wrists are sore, which I'm assuming are from the cocked angle my wrists are at (I ride mostly the top of the drops). Has anyone else experienced this and can attribute this to the handlebars? I switched from bullhorns that angle my wrists the other way and I had no problem with those handlebars. Just wanted to see if I should change these out before my wrists get worse

answer

Why the hell are you gripping the bars like that in the first place?

Also as everyone else says with bike fitting. You should be able to let go of the bars and maintain the same position you were in before over your cockpit. That's how much pressure you should be putting down.

Track drops are only comfortable in one position. You might wanna try bullhorns or road drops. I can ride on the tops of track drops no problem, it's uncomfortable but I've never had any real pain from it. That said track drops are pretty, but fairly useless.

I'm not sure what a "cocked angle" is but if your hands are in a unnatural position on the bars that can cause repetitive use injuries, yes.
And I don't think it'll get better either.

Don't value aesthetics higher than comfort and just put the old bars back on.

dave - yesterday i rode a round trip from one city to another, about 1 hour total - i've done longer rides with the bullhorns and didn't have any issues

zachee - i've seen a lot of people ride on top of track drops around the city, since i had an extra pair i thought i'd try it out to see what it was like. my handlebars / stem are lower so i'm in a more aero position, and i'd have to double check this, but i don't think i maintain the same position if i take my hands off. good tip, i'll try that.

thanks roberty

rogwilco - yeah i think i will switch them out soon, i can feel it is more of a tendon/nerve issue rather than just sore muscles

im no expert but im sure the wrists are not designed to bear weight when they are cocked at an upward angle. i used to ride track drops and would grip the ends when i want to be aero and then if i want to keep my hand closer to the drop brake lever, i have to move my grip up towars the center of the curve. in either grip configuration, top or bottom, i try to keep my wrists parallel to my forearms so at least the weight bears on my elbows/shoulders 'cause wrists are quite delicate.

anyway i've switched to RB-018 and couldn't be any more happier and comfortable!

I don't like straight dissing of track drops for reason other than inability to do barspins. There are plenty of people using em with no mishaps. I can ride on my thing for 2-3 hours without much problem and cotton bartape on top. I don't do bar spins.

I think you guys are having problems because the bar is too low or/and too far away, or/and too narrow. This screws up your riding posture and a wrong posture gonna hurt for road drop, track drop, or even a riser and a straight bar (very unlikely I know).

You should check out a road bike manual. They talk about riding postures. Spend time tweeking it out. It's gonna take weeks to get it right. If you are lazy, go with a riser. Twisting let you adjust for all kind of positions. Best invention ever. I am lucky because I use a quill stem. (except very little choice in style)

my 38cm wide cinelli track bars curve immediately away right at the stem clamp, so if I grab them on top, it's right at the stem. I tried a wider (42cm?) nitto track bar on another bike of mine, it had a longer flat section on top before it started the curve. So it felt a little more comfortable and controlable than the cinelli bar whan my hands were up top.

Is there actually any reason to use track bars on a road bike except style?

well if both the top flats and the drops are comfortable, yes.

I had the same problem.

It is because track drops are not designed for you to rest your hands on the tops, and some people's wrists do not like bending in the way they have to on them.

In the actual drop, I am fine, it's just the weird combination of forward and downsweep that kills my wrists.

note how the most comfortable bars have rise and backsweep.

Track drops rule. I don't get wrist pain per se, but I do feel the need to frequently change my hand position after longer rides.

staying with track drops would make a lot of sense.

Is there actually any reason to use track bars on a road bike except style?

No, there is absolutely no reason whatsoever. Even few track racers use track drops these days. They were nearly impossible to find no more than five years ago, but since the fixed gear explosion, everyone's making some uncomfortable hipster-approved bars.

Hahha this is ridiculous.

Everyone running drops is a loser, ftw!


Bonechilling, what are track racers using if they're not using track drops? I don't ever seem to recall seeing anything but drops in keirin races.

That's because that's all keirin racers are allowed to use, and because keirin is a sprint event (the only event that track drops are useful for).

Most track racers use conventional road bars.

answer

+1, the answer is right there.

When you grip track drops near the stem on on the shoulders, it bends your wrists so that the pinky is lower than the thumb. This is the opposite of anatomically correct. I suggest you either:
use your handlebars properly; or
replace them with different bars.

track drops are for the track **** for brains

I think you guys are having problems because the bar is too low or/and too far away, or/and too narrow. This screws up your riding posture and a wrong posture gonna hurt for road drop, track drop, or even a riser and a straight bar (very unlikely I know).

You should check out a road bike manual. They talk about riding postures. Spend time tweeking it out. It's gonna take weeks to get it right. If you are lazy, go with a riser. Twisting let you adjust for all kind of positions. Best invention ever. I am lucky because I use a quill stem. (except very little choice in style)

Thanks Tomo. Thanks everyone else, very helpful. I actually have played a lot with different stem lengths/heights/handlebars and frankly, I don't want to buy every single stem out there in order to figure out the right height. I ended up getting some gusset handlebars (well, a cheap knock off) and it's the most comfortable ride ever. Huge rise and sweep back. I had some nitto risers and some soma risers before but these are the most comfortable.

I don't like straight dissing of track drops for reason other than inability to do barspins. There are plenty of people using em with no mishaps. I can ride on my thing for 2-3 hours without much problem and cotton bartape on top. I don't do bar spins.

I think you guys are having problems because the bar is too low or/and too far away, or/and too narrow. This screws up your riding posture and a wrong posture gonna hurt for road drop, track drop, or even a riser and a straight bar (very unlikely I know).

You should check out a road bike manual. They talk about riding postures. Spend time tweeking it out. It's gonna take weeks to get it right. If you are lazy, go with a riser. Twisting let you adjust for all kind of positions. Best invention ever. I am lucky because I use a quill stem. (except very little choice in style)

+1 agreed

Also not all track drops are the same. For example Nitto NJS compared to Deda drops, the curve going down to the drops is a bit sharper on Nitto's making the angle more severe to hold onto. It can make a bit of a difference, I ride Deda's at every hand position and personally love them. That said it seems most people can't ride the same way due to their wrists, so if it doesn't work for you just switch to something that does.

Bars hurt your wrists, get new bars.

Next question.

I wouldn't screw around with this as wrist pain can be hard to get rid of once you have it. I had a similiar issue compounded by the fact that I sit at the computer a million hours a day and ended up with a different bike with risers and Ergon grips eventually. Tried a ton of stems and bars and never got comfortable. Ergons were the biggest improvement by far. They distribute the pressure much better but don't look as cool as Ourys. Better to be able to ride without pain.

Most track racers use conventional road bars.

I disagree. I don't and most of the other guys and gals I see at the track don't either. I ride all events, including the longer ones like long scratch races. The only time I ride on the tops close to the stem is when I'm warming up or have given up in a race and surrendered. Road bars are not good when you get out of the saddle to accelerate while holding onto the drops and the tops get in the way of your forearms.

My Bianchi Pista Concept came standard with track drops (Deda Elementi Pista), and they are quite easy to find online ( http://www.worldclasscycles.com/deda_track_alloy.htm ).

Now, as to using them on a road fixed gear is IMO downright silly.

Maybe you should stop being a hipster slave to fashion and get comfortable bars designed for road racing as opposed to sprints on the track. Or was that too obvious? Noodles? Townies? Mustaches? Heck, even Cinelli Criteriums? This isn't rocket science folks.

Maybe you should stop being a hipster slave to fashion

Hey. I run track bars on my track bike. Suck it.

This isn't rocket science folks.

Yup. When will people realize that a bike set up for YOU will make you a more efficient rider? Anybody who knows about bike fitment would agree that nobody should feel pain when riding, unless it's burning guad muscles. I'm not sure why anybody would want drops unless they ride in the drops - what's the point of grabbing the tops of those? Might as well get flats or risers!

I say use a bar that doesn't cause pain - you'll ride better.

<---Doesn't miss drops one bit for City riding.

I say use a bar that doesn't cause pain - you'll ride better.

Amen to that. My B125 track drop doesn't cause pain and I ride better.

I am not saying you ought to get a track drop. YOU MUST FEEL FREE to use other bars, but don't make a statement that all track drops are bad. A track drop cause you problems doesn't mean it cause all of us problems. Some people are plenty happy with it like me.

That being said, I wouldn't tour with a track drop. I will swap over to my touring bar, but it is pretty ugly. But we ain't discussing about touring, were we?

I disagree. I don't and most of the other guys and gals I see at the track don't either. I ride all events, including the longer ones like long scratch races. The only time I ride on the tops close to the stem is when I'm warming up or have given up in a race and surrendered. Road bars are not good when you get out of the saddle to accelerate while holding onto the drops and the tops get in the way of your forearms.

My Bianchi Pista Concept came standard with track drops (Deda Elementi Pista), and they are quite easy to find online ( http://www.worldclasscycles.com/deda_track_alloy.htm ).

Now, as to using them on a road fixed gear is IMO downright silly.

That's wonderful, but your liking or disliking track drops is not relevant. In my years of racing at four or five different velodromes, I've seen track bars gradually be replaced by road drops, to the point where it seems as if only sprinters and newbie hipster riders are using them.

Don't confuse my statement with a dislike of the bar itself, because I said nothing to indicate that a preference one way or another.

You guys can pretend all you want that you can comfortably ride a Nitto track drop on the road for extended periods, but anyone with even a passing familiarity with human anatomy knows that you're only fooling yourself, and perhaps ignoring the obvious signals that you're harming yourself.

You guys can pretend all you want that you can comfortably ride a Nitto track drop on the road for extended periods, but anyone with even a passing familiarity with human anatomy knows that you're only fooling yourself, and perhaps ignoring the obvious signals that you're harming yourself.

I would like to know what are the "obvious" signals, I ought to be looking for. For example, in the case of running, I would be looking for scratchy knee caps for one. As far as I can find from reading books and posts, I ought to be looking for ...

1. Pressure on your posterior: pelvis bone should be "standing" closed to vertical.
2. Leg positions: knees should not be beyond pedal axles when under load.
3. Knee conditions: ought to move smoothly; no clicks or sanding of any sorts.
4. Palm pressure: ought to be lightly pressed if at all. look for numbness.
5. Arm conditions: bar ought be held lightly. (fatigue on extensor muscles, I found that one out myself. :thumb:)
6. Stomach / back muscle fatigue: usually don't occur unless riding posture is screwed. It could happen when tired or dehydrated. (aww! I learned the latter thru experience.)
7. Keep hydrated. ... nearly forgot that one.

Anything else? I think wrist / elbow problems shouldn't arise before you feel some form of muscle fatigues. So I look for that, but I only had sore extensor muscles (not flexor or any muscles beyond my elbow joint) when I was holding bar real tight. I solved that problem real quick.

I know spinal column is extremely difficult to see problems prior to actually seeing it on X-rays. But you know we ain't Egyptians; we don't lift any stones. Little bumps here and there ain't no crushing punch. (Well, I stick to smooth road.)

As for palm pressure, using a track drop(roof) put pressure between thumb and first joint of index finger, fleshy muscular area under thumb (thenar muscle?), fleshy muscular area around lower palm. I periodically move around the pressed zone around between these area to avoid continually stressing certain region as I am told. I have never experience any numbness or anything relating to such problems. I have been looking out particularly for ulner nerve just beyond wrist for any compression as it is well known. However, all I have ever experienced is a raw skin primarily because I used rough bar tapes on bare hands.

Anything I have missed?

T

This thread is helpful. Lately after long rides on my kilo tt (with the stock bar/stem) the base of my palms start to hurt. I usually switch up the 2 top grip and drop positions throughout the ride but obviously the issue is coming from the top positions. Can anyone take a guess at what the problem is? Sizing, bar type, etc...? Obviously I am putting to much pressure on my hands.

+1 on the non death grip on the bars.

good old road drops with brake hoods is the way to go

This thread is helpful. Lately after long rides on my kilo tt (with the stock bar/stem) the base of my palms start to hurt. I usually switch up the 2 top grip and drop positions throughout the ride but obviously the issue is coming from the top positions. Can anyone take a guess at what the problem is? Sizing, bar type, etc...? Obviously I am putting to much pressure on my hands.

Are you talking about fleshy part of your palm? You shouldn't ride on bony parts. Also, you shouldn't do keirin racer like riding position for extended period. (If you do, you ought to go to Track forum, right?) Lift your bar up so nearly level with your saddle. This moves your weight away from your hands/arms. Kilo TT run an A-Head right? You need to fiddle with spacers or get a high rise stem.

You might want to develop your arm muscles so they soak up some shocks. If it ain't do you nothing, it will soak up some chick (or wify) attentions. :thumb:

rode nitto B123s on a jaguar stem for a couple of months. hands next to the stem. fashion over function, blah blah blah. terrible and uncomfortable. now i have a road stem and some risers, and the nitto stuff sits in the basement.

rode nitto B123s on a jaguar stem for a couple of months. hands next to the stem. fashion over function, blah blah blah. terrible and uncomfortable. now i have a road stem and some risers, and the nitto stuff sits in the basement.

risers still arent very functional.

what kind of function are you talking about? it's a handlebar. sure, it has less hand positions, but at least for me, they are WAY more comfortable than either position on my track drops. what bars are you a proponent of, bullhorns? mustache bars? what?

I disagree. I don't and most of the other guys and gals I see at the track don't either. I ride all events, including the longer ones like long scratch races. The only time I ride on the tops close to the stem is when I'm warming up or have given up in a race and surrendered. Road bars are not good when you get out of the saddle to accelerate while holding onto the drops and the tops get in the way of your forearms.

My Bianchi Pista Concept came standard with track drops (Deda Elementi Pista), and they are quite easy to find online ( http://www.worldclasscycles.com/deda_track_alloy.htm ).

Now, as to using them on a road fixed gear is IMO downright silly.

Mark Cavendish's Dolan:
http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/photos/2007/tech/probikes/wiggins_cavendish_track/mc_dl_complete_bike.jpg

Wiggins and Cavendish
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/telegraph/multimedia/archive/01367/mark-cavendish_1367190c.jpg

Rebecca Romero
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/imageBank/r/Rebecca%20Romero%20points%20race.JPG

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1c/Track_cycling_2005.jpg

Sprints generally use track drops.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/Omiya_keirin1.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Om7pveY9p-w/Sau9db_GCtI/AAAAAAAACis/SzNAmDgn15s/s1600/HN%2BTrackCyclingWorld%2B2.jpg

Pursuit riders use aero bars
http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2008/03_03/RomeroMOS_468x684.jpg
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/imageBank/g/GB%20team%20pursuit%20qualify2.jpg


I've got some Cinelli Giro d'Italia bars size 38cm that would give you a bit more room at the tops than most track drops without looking like touring bars. Back in the 80's, narrow bars were common as they were more aerodynamic. But they constrict the chest too much and they just aren't that comfortable for long rides.

would top njs racers get destroyed by top uci racers?

I disagree. I don't and most of the other guys and gals I see at the track don't either. I ride all events, including the longer ones like long scratch races. The only time I ride on the tops close to the stem is when I'm warming up or have given up in a race and surrendered. Road bars are not good when you get out of the saddle to accelerate while holding onto the drops and the tops get in the way of your forearms.

Now, as to using them on a road fixed gear is IMO downright silly.

Yes, the sprint bars are made with a deep drop so you can get down lower, and they are curved rapidly outward so that your forearms don't hit the tops of the bars if you rock the bike too much in a sprint. I remember having bruises on the inside of my forearms after hilly criteriums because I had been rocking the road bike too much with its conventional road bars.

Cinelli used to make a road bar that curved down a bit like a sprint bar, the model #65. Road sprinter Roger de Vlaeminck was famous for using these on his Gios when he won the spring classics and the sprinter's jersey in the Giro.

I just want to add that a lot of the problem that people have with drop bars is that most people use them incorrectly. They need to be set up so that holding the tops, or the top of the brake levers, is the default position. In this way, they are no less comfortable than flat bars, but they provide an extra position that flat bars do not: the ability to get the body lower by putting the hands in the drops. This position is supposed to be somewhat uncomfortable because you're only going to be in this position when you're hammering into a headwind (or sprinting, which not many recreational riders will be doing). Most people make the mistake of assuming that the drops are the default position (easy to do because it's very inviting to think so, just looking at the bars), so they set the bars way too high, then wonder why their butt hurts when they ride all day on the tops.

Using sprint bars, this position on the tops is a bit more difficult to hold comfortably, because unless you have brake levers, your hands want to slide down the drops. When you watch track sprinters warming up or riding casually, they'll have their hands on the tops real close to the stem.

Luis

I don't really like road bars (that I have tried) probably because most of these have short reaches. Are all modern drops like that? I just picked up an old bar that has a longer reach, and it feels good. (But I prefer the curvy profile of track drops. I will need to fiddle with it some time.)


Cinelli used to make a road bar that curved down a bit like a sprint bar, the model #65. Road sprinter Roger de Vlaeminck was famous for using these on his Gios when he won the spring classics and the sprinter's jersey in the Giro.

Hey, I didn't know model 65 is a road drop. Criterium right? I am gonna go look for one.

I was riding road bars for a while and I started to actually lose strength in my left hand, and I tried every solution: making sure I was fitted right, double taping my bars, etc... No matter what position I was in with the road bars it was pushing on a nerve group in my hand when I rode the drops, so the road bars had to go. Went back to my old straight bars for a bit, tried out some moustache bars which were awesome for comfort and around town, but not for really long distance rides (well not for me anyway). So recently I just ordered bullhorns, thought they'd be good for distance riding and around town. Had them just normally wrapped but 20 miles into my ride my hands would get a little numb or weird, so I actually double wrapped them and they're perfect now. No hand probs at all now. You just gotta find what's comfortable and go with it. Could cost ya a bit trying out different bars, or maybe you can borrow some from a friend if they have some old ones that are different from yours, but it's worth it once you find the right bars. Good luck!