Hybrid Bicycles - Convert Trek FX Hybrid to Drop Bars

The discussion was initially started here:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=576394&page=2

based upon this bike conversion:
http://images.velodramatic.com/singlespeed/singlespeed-build/index.html

Figured it would be best to split into a new thread rather than muddy up the other one further. So here's the idea, take a Trek FX and convert it to drop bars to be more road-bike-like. Some comments have been made about the geometry being all wrong, and weight distrubution, relation to the bottom bracket, etc. So I took two brand new Trek bikes, one a 7.6fx, and one a X1 Cyclocross bike with drop bars, and layed them atop each other for a comparison of the geometry.

http://www.ducatiomaha.com/images/jj/BikeConversion.jpg

So I don't know anything about bicycle geometry, but I know alot about motorcycle geometry, and I don't see anything in this comparison that leads me to believe that converting the fx to drop bars will be drastically different from the X1 Cyclocross bike that already comes with drop bars. Please enlighten me on what might be problematic with this concept as far as geometry goes, I don't know the impact of the more compact top bracket vs. the more horizontal top bracket on the CX bike for example.

As far as what's required to do it (without the single-speed conversion from the velodramatic bike linked to above), here's what I've come up with so far:

1) Shorter stem
2) Drop bar handlebar
3) Brifters (brake/shifters from a road bike)
4) Cantilever brake arms/pads
5) Bar tape

What else would be needed?

thank you for this thread. this is exactly what i have in mind with my current fuji but i am a newbie.maybe this suits the mechanics forum even more which is the busiest forum. either way i will be following this thread carefully.

edit: we should have a word with this fella who added drops to the 7.5 fx (http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=9472959&postcount=8)

hahahaha - looks like my link really got to you, jarel!

based on your pic, the geometry looks CLOSE - definitely not the same but close. not a bad conversion to try if you're really craving drop bars.

Why on earth would you do this? Why not sell your hybrid and get a road bike? Without starting an argument about what defines a hybrid, I'd only say that once you start adding drops and brifters, you might as well get a road bike. Drops and brifters on a hybrid seem to me like a totally sub-optimized road bike for the price of a good entry level road bike.

I think you can put drop bars on any bike. That whole geometry, weight distribution blah blah blah is nonsense. Take Kona's Dew series of hybrids as an example, they have released a drop bar version. The rest of the bike is Dew. The trek bike would no different. I'm sure members that on this forum that run drops on their hybrids should be along here soon.

The cost is what I'd be concerned with. Brifters don't come cheap.

I also think that drop bars in all of it's flavors are the best handle bar design period. Here's a picture of a mountain/road drop bar on a mountain bike.

http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq334/Masifan/DSC01263.jpg

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/6896/dsc03989a.jpg

Here's my drop bar conversion on a Trek hybrid. Main reason for conversion, hand positions. Total cost of conversion was ~$100. Went with the Tektro RL520 brake levers, and changed it to bar end friction shifters. Been riding like this for a while now, only complaint i have is that I need a shorter stem.

Why on earth would you do this? Why not sell your hybrid and get a road bike? Without starting an argument about what defines a hybrid, I'd only say that once you start adding drops and brifters, you might as well get a road bike. Drops and brifters on a hybrid seem to me like a totally sub-optimized road bike for the price of a good entry level road bike.

There is a lot more to a Hybrid than the Flat Bars, I can completely understand the conversion. Try putting racks and fender on a road bike without mickey mousing the installation

Drop bars can be very versatile...

On road...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/trek09new1.jpg

Off road...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/trekcommute1.jpg

thank you for this thread. this is exactly what i have in mind with my current fuji but i am a newbie.maybe this suits the mechanics forum even more which is the busiest forum. either way i will be following this thread carefully.

edit: we should have a word with this fella who added drops to the 7.5 fx (http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=9472959&postcount=8)

:)

My Trek is actually a 1999 Trek 7500... I figure I might be responsible for quite a few drop bar conversions on Trek hybrids.

I used Suntour Barcon shifters and have since changed out the Avid Shorty canti brakes (can you say squeeeaaaal?) for much much better Shimano XTR cantis.

I chose the Suntour friction shifters for their robust build and serviceability and they are mated to an 8 speed drive.

Why on earth would you do this? Why not sell your hybrid and get a road bike? Without starting an argument about what defines a hybrid, I'd only say that once you start adding drops and brifters, you might as well get a road bike. Drops and brifters on a hybrid seem to me like a totally sub-optimized road bike for the price of a good entry level road bike.

Because for some, drop bars are just the most comfortable bars there are and not just for full on road bikes.

Getting more aero and expanding one's hand positions can be beneficial on many types of bikes.

My 1988 Kuwahara Shasta... I have great positioning on the hoods and besides being able to get more aero in the drops the position also eases the compression and pain issues in my back like nothing else.

And this bike will go places road bikes fear to tread.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/uav1.jpg

What is it again about that white Trek that makes it a hybrid rather than a touring bike? I don't
want to get banned again, but I still don't get it.

When I purchased my first mountain bike, a Ross Mt. Hood, I had drop bars put on it. Later, I
bought a touring bike, a Bridgestone RB-T, and I replaced the drop bars with flat bars. Depending
on intended use and rider preference, swapping from flats to drops or from drops to flats can be a
reasonable modification.

As mentioned above with the example of the Kona bike, many companies are marketing hybrids and
touring bikes featuring the same frame. My Cannondale H300 was also sold with drop bars as a T300.
With so many nice hybrids on the market now, it is unlikely anyone would need to buy a tourer and
convert it to a flat bar bike as I did with the Bridgestone, but that was not the case then. The reverse
is true as well.

Touring bikes were hard to come by back then. I think the popularity of hybrids has led to more
touring bikes being available now. Because the frames are already in production to meet the demand
for fast hybrids, it doesn't cost much to add touring bikes to the product line.

So maybe you would have been better off buying a touring bike, but you have a hybrid. If you prefer
drop bars, you can convert your current bike or sell it and get a touring bike.

...subscribing.

Thanks for getting the thread rolling guys! Now if we could get back to the "HOW" focus of the conversion, rather than the "WHY". So we get a new stem, some drop bars, brifters, bar tape and cantilever brake arms, then what?

Stem - How to pick the exact size?

Drop Bars - Benefits to compact vs. full-size, seems pretty obvious but anything I'm missing?

Brifters - With stock 9-speed drivetrain, looks like I have to use the Shimano 9-speed brifters, will any others work as well? Seems Campagnono makes really nice brifters, but won't work with the Shimano deraileurs?

Bar tape - never used it before, anything to know there? Similar to putting grip on a tennis racquet, which I've done many times?

Cantilever brakes - What else needed for the conversion besizes the brake arms? From the "project" bike listed above, there were brake "hangers" used. Buy those? Make them?

Is a shorter stem a requirement for this modifcation?

btw nice work on the lay-over photos.

^ i think it depends on the stem length. if you add drop bars and the bars seem like you are stretching too much for them, you'll need a shorter stem. i think this all depends on the stem that came on the bike... this varies a lot. some may have the perfect stem, some longer, some shorter ,etc.

What is it again about that white Trek that makes it a hybrid rather than a touring bike ?

Mine is just an older and pre FX model Trek 7500 Multitrack (hybrid) with drop bars and an eclectic mix of parts (mostly mtb) that seems to get no respect... I should name it Rodney.

:lol:

Almost all bikes are hybrids to some degree... whether you define that by components, by what they do, or by what marketers tell us what a hybrid is and isn't.

I tried to figure this out on my own, ordered up some parts so we'll see how it goes. I'll post back with pictures on how things turn out.

Is a shorter stem a requirement for this modifcation?

btw nice work on the lay-over photos.

I don't think a short stem is required for any other purpose other than if you feel you need less of a reach to the bars for comfort. I got a 90mm stem for my conversion, figured that would be a good place to start and I'll see how it feels. If necessary, I'll swap it out for a different length. It also has less rise than the stock stem, so it will be a little lower and closer to me, which I think is what i'm looking for. Might be all wrong, but there's only one way to find out! I figure if it doesn't work I'll have a brand new compact drop bar with pre-installed Shimano STI brifters on it to sell to someone building a road bike, so I won't really be out much.

best of luck jarel. you mind posting links to the parts you ordered? i just want to see what route you're goin.

thanks in advance.

I don't think a short stem is required for any other purpose other than if you feel you need less of a reach to the bars for comfort.

While on the bike this morning I tried to imagine where drop bars would 'fit' best. To me it seemed they would need to be the same height but farther away or I would feel cramped. :dunno smilley here:

I'm very interested to see how your project shakes out.

Good luck & thanks for keeping us posted.

Oval Concepts 90mm stem
FSA Omega compact drop bar
Shimano R550 Canti brakes
Shimano ST4500 STI Brake/Shifters
Misc. hangers/cables

Total parts about $450, I controlled myself and didn't order all of the carbon fiber stuff! ha ha!

^ LOL, good man. save that $ for a sick set of wheels. and you'll be flying down the streets.

Yeah, I still want some new wheels too, every time I hit a big pothole or expansion joint in the pavement I envision one of the high-tension spokes going "BOING!!!" and then I'm stuck.

Get a Nitto Noodle bar. If you're not racing and don't spend most of your time on drops, its the bar to get for any bike. A racing bar is just not suitable for most riders.

Get a Nitto Noodle bar. If you're not racing and don't spend most of your time on drops, its the bar to get for any bike. A racing bar is just not suitable for most riders.

Are there different versions of that noodle bar? I looked it up and it appears to be 26mm clamp, 96mm reach, with a 140mm drop, in a few different widths. The bar clamp on the hybrid is 31.8mm, and the bars I got are only 80mm reach and only 125mm drop. Is there something else that's better about the noodle bar?

The wide flat bar section. If you don't ride in an aero tuck most of the time, they are a good drop bar for a hybrid. One can also go with a randonneur bar used on touring bikes but if I had to do it today, I'd go with a noodle bar.

I like my drops...do what makes you happy. I will be changing the frame on the bike posted to a Soma Groove this winter, my version of a 26" Fargo. Good luck and enjoy your project:thumb:

^ awesome pic.

As far as I can tell no one has mentioned the two key issues that are problems - brake/lever compatibility and shifter/derailer compatibility:

Brakes -

You've almost certainly got v-brakes. These aren't compatible with integrated road brake/shifters unless you use a gadget called a travel agent. Which often doesn't work well. Plus integrated shimano shifters - I'm guessing your bike uses shimano - are, what, $300?


Derailers -

You as likely as not have shimano mtb derailers, and a front mtb shifter won't be compatible with a road shifter/brake. One answer is to change the front derailer for a road derailer. Used is fine - these components live for years. A road derailer will be perfectly compatible with mtb chain rings as long as it has enough throw - which would be the case for a new mtb derailer too.


A way around the above is to use the v-brake compatible Tektro levers designed for single speeds and either bar end shifters or the "Minoura Space Bar Hack". Do a forum search for this. Using it would get rid of all your compatibility problems and cut about $300 off your conversion cost. There are other alternatives as well - I've read that the Campag road shifters are friendly to MTB powertrain, for example, and/or you could swap the v-brakes for cantis if you decide you don't want to use a travel agent.

Re geometry: the only problem you have is getting the stem length and height right with drops. With a few very exceptional performance hybrids this would be a problem because they have long top tubes to create a fast position with flats. You should be fine, but be prepared to experiment with different stems. Don't forget they can be flipped to slope either up or down to adjust bar height a touch.

Also re fit - different people need different width drop bars. Google an article on bike fit that discusses this. Too wide is better than too narrow.


Final hints:

- If you do this work yourself it won't be hard, but cutting cable will be the toughest part. SIS gear cable has a very delicate housing the normal cable clippers can damage. Either buy an SIS cable cutter or use a dremel with a cutting disk.

- Be wary of second hand stems and bars. Metal fatigue can produce very sudden and drastic failures!

Are there different versions of that noodle bar? I looked it up and it appears to be 26mm clamp, 96mm reach, with a 140mm drop, in a few different widths. The bar clamp on the hybrid is 31.8mm, and the bars I got are only 80mm reach and only 125mm drop. Is there something else that's better about the noodle bar?

The clamp size is set by the stem, which you are changing. At least you should be changing it. You can choose to get a stem that takes either regular road size bars or "oversize". The first would take the Noodles. Stems are also classified by steerer size and whether they are ahead or the older threaded. You almost certainly want 1 1/8 inch ahead.

If you're not comfortable with details like this I'd recommend doing some more research before getting to the work where mistakes could be expensive or dangerous. I'm sure you'll be fine if you work on motorcycles, just take some time to go over the basics. Bicycles might not have engines but your bike could still be damn dangerous if the steering comes lose in a 40mph descent...

And there is no such thing as a better or worse bar (at least among decent quality ones). It's more a question of fit for the rider and purpose.

Already got Canti brakes (see list above), Shimano 550's, so that should be fine. The Trek 7.6fx has a Shimano Deore front derailleur (MTB-style) and a Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur (road-style). I know the rear derailleur works with the levers I got, I checked on that ahead of time. Not sure on the front derailleur, what is it about a MTB-style derailleur that will not work with a road shifter? Is the throw different? I figured I'd try it and see if it worked, but if not it looks like a new road front derailleur is cheap, so I'll just buy one if I need to. The stem I already got, it's a 31.8mm clamp size, so are the bars I got (FSA Omega compact), 42cm width. No worries on not taking my time and making sure everything is done right, building motorcycles to be safe at 170mph is good training to be careful not to leave any bolts loose! ha ha!

Already got Canti brakes (see list above), Shimano 550's, so that should be fine.


Yes, they should be fine.



The Trek 7.6fx has a Shimano Deore front derailleur (MTB-style) and a Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur (road-style). I know the rear derailleur works with the levers I got, I checked on that ahead of time. Not sure on the front derailleur, what is it about a MTB-style derailleur that will not work with a road shifter? Is the throw different?


I believe it's the pull. If you want, PM me and I'll introduce you to someone who did a brifter conversion to an MTB. You can also find a thread about mtb/crosser conversion in the cyclocross forum that may be useful.

Get a Nitto Noodle bar. If you're not racing and don't spend most of your time on drops, its the bar to get for any bike. A racing bar is just not suitable for most riders.

thank you sir! that's exactly what i'll do.

Update: received all of the parts for the drop bar conversion this week, let the fun begin! Ok, well it also takes free time which I have none of this week, but maybe I'll be able to mess with it this weekend.....

Question about shifters and converting from flat to drop. Maybe I'm crazy, but what is the main reason I should replace my existing flat bar Shimano R440 9spd shifters (thumb / forefinger variety) when going to a drop bar? I see that many people go with the bar end shifters and some upgrade to the brifters. The drop bar will have the option of having my hands in the "flat bar" position which would allow me to shift normally... I think.

I am just thinking that they might not be that bad on a drop bar. Especially if I also have some of those top mount levers (Tektro RL570) along with RL520s. I find shifting not as important as braking.

Anyway, I am curious what others think.

Thoughts?

^ i wondered the same thing and, although i have not found out for sure, i think the biggest reason to move to the drop bar shifter setup is that it's easier to shift when you're in the drops. if you dont shift frequently/have a very flat terrain ride, like you said, shifting is not as high priority as braking... you could probably get away with keeping the existing shifters and just getting brakes...

but like i said, i duno for sure :D

Update: received all of the parts for the drop bar conversion this week, let the fun begin! Ok, well it also takes free time which I have none of this week, but maybe I'll be able to mess with it this weekend.....

Outstanding! Good luck & have fun.

^ i wondered the same thing and, although i have not found out for sure, i think the biggest reason to move to the drop bar shifter setup is that it's easier to shift when you're in the drops. if you dont shift frequently/have a very flat terrain ride, like you said, shifting is not as high priority as braking... you could probably get away with keeping the existing shifters and just getting brakes...

but like i said, i duno for sure :D

I've been riding with a pretty cool group here for a while, most of the rides are at a moderate to slow pace for 4 - 6 hours, and I've noticed that most of the riders with drops generally have there hands in the "flat" position. Of course if its windy or if we are trying to go and a quick pace, they go to the drops, but I find those instances rare.

I wonder if we took a poll of drop riders, where would be the most common hand position. I am guessing on the hoods which would be closer to brifters than flat bar or bar end shifters.

Still curious though.

A good compromise is a moustache bar. If you don't care for riding in the drops and still want the multiple hand positions a drop bar offers.

I've just finished converting my new 21.5" Jamis Coda to drop bars. Perfection!

Reasons:
- I rode drop bars in the city for years and got used to them: multiple positions, smooth handling, narrow for squeezing between cars. Never trusted old caliper brakes, though.
- I loved everything about the Coda except the flat bar. Tried adding bar ends but it just wasn't right.
- New road bikes cost too much for me - largely due to fancy brifters.

Here's what I used:
- Cheap 41cm Zoom drop bar. Nothing fancy, but it has a flat ramp like the Noodle, which is key.
- Tektro RL520 levers that work with V brakes. Excellent and affordable.
- New brake noodles with barrel adjusters built in. $2 each.
- Shimano 8-speed barcons. I wanted to get Dia Compe Silvers, but couldn't find any locally (Victoria, BC.) For a bit more $ I get the option of index shifting the rear, and cables and housing were included, so that was a good call.
- 80mm stem to replace the 130mm stem I was using with the flat bars.
- Sweet tan-coloured cork tape to complement the awesome, retro-stealth look of the 2009 Coda.

Total cost of modifications about $200 Cdn. I don't know about geometry or any of that, but I got a dreamy all-around road/commuter bike for $900 total. Couldn't be happier. I just need to replace that 80mm stem with a 70mm to get the position right.

Don't let anybody tell you you can't do it, and don't be afraid to use barcons if brifters seem too pricey. I think barcons are fine, and actually better if you want to hammer through 3 or 4 gears at a time.

I will post a pic later if anyone is interested.

Chris

^ excellent conversion - congrats on the success. but i think all of us are dying to see pictures of it :D

OK, here goes...

Question about shifters and converting from flat to drop. Maybe I'm crazy, but what is the main reason I should replace my existing flat bar Shimano R440 9spd shifters (thumb / forefinger variety) when going to a drop bar? I see that many people go with the bar end shifters and some upgrade to the brifters. The drop bar will have the option of having my hands in the "flat bar" position which would allow me to shift normally... I think.

I am just thinking that they might not be that bad on a drop bar. Especially if I also have some of those top mount levers (Tektro RL570) along with RL520s. I find shifting not as important as braking.

Anyway, I am curious what others think.

Thoughts?

The reason is they don't fit on a road drop bar. A road drop bar is a bigger diameter (I'm not talking clamp diameter size) than a flat bar. A flat bar is generally 7/8" dia. and a drop bar is bigger. (They can vary somewhat). If you try to spread the clamps, you're apt to do damage.

Cayles - that bike looks great! i dig the drop bar style brake levers but the mountain bike style brakes.

Another novice question.

Why do the cables for barcon shifters come out of the drop wrap a fist length from the end instead of going all the way under the wrap and exiting the same place as brifters?

Thank you for satisfying my curiosity.

Another novice question.

Why do the cables for barcon shifters come out of the drop wrap a fist length from the end instead of going all the way under the wrap and exiting the same place as brifters?

Thank you for satisfying my curiosity.

Bringing the housing out lower down is the path of least resistance for 2 reasons:
- Fully under tape = more bends and friction.
- Your shifters might not come with long enough housing.

Apparently both routings work OK, though.

Thanks cayles. Yours is a nice looking bike by the way. I don't know if I will go from flat to drop, but seeing yours and others lets me know that it is something that can be done.

I have to admit, I would like to try it.

Makin' progress!! Still lots left to do but the basic structure is in place now. I'll post some detailed final pics once it's all done and I'm able to ride the bike.

http://www.ducatiomaha.com/images/76fxBar1.jpg

I was very interested to read these threads. I was told that I couldn't/shouldn't put drop bars on my Fuji Absolute 4.0. So I didn't.

Instead, I switched out the stem and riser bars it came with for a flat bar that supports clip on aero bars.

Just because someone says you can't do something, doesn't mean you can't do something even more often.

Looks good but from the photo the hoods look like they may be mounted quite high. What's it like to reach the brake leavers from the drops? I try and have the levers straight up and down, 90 degrees to the ground, it makes the levers easy to reach from both the hoods and the drops.

http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq334/Masifan/DSC01646.jpg

The slight downward slope on the top of the bar and quite often place your hands and wrists in a more natural position. The bottom of your handlebar drops appear like they will end up close to parallel to the ground which can also be a comfortable place to pearch.