Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Anyone here using Campy Ultra Torque?

Now that the Ultra Torque system has been around for a few years, are there any users here who can comment on longevity of the bearings, especially for a >250lb rider? Not that I've heard anything negative about the bearing life of the system, it's just that the bearings look like a PITA to replace, so it would be nice to know if I have a reasonable shot at getting, say, 10K miles of them before having to worry about it. The BB shell has already been faced & chased so that should not affect bearing life.

I'm currently using a square taper Campy crank with a Phil Wood BB, but my new frame needs a longer spindle, so it's not that much more money to go with a new UT crankset than to buy a new Phil. The one I'm looking at is a Centaur compact 10 speed (non-carbon). Not sure of the model year, probably '08.

The PW BB is a nice piece of engineering, but man is it ever expensive. Have you thought about going with a compatible Token or just a Centaur BB? I use a Centaur BB with a Veloce crankset and it works very well, and is a lot cheaper.

Depending on how many miles a year you ride and what the conditions are you ride in, the general rule of thumb is ususally have your BB checked annually. Most people don't do this though and just wait until there is a noticeable noise or play.

EDIT: Removing a BB is actiually pretty easy, if you have the tools. You need a crank puller for Campy, and a BB tool for Campy. They aren't that expesive, but if it's not your thing your LBS shouldn't charge more than around $20 or so labor to switch out a BB. The outboard bearings are even easier, btw.

I switch to an alloy Centaur Ultra Torque about 1,000 miles ago and I love it. I was using an older Centaur square crankset and Chorus old school b-bkt (pre-cartridge). The Ultra Torque was a breeze to install and is very stiff. My only grip is there seems a bit more drag with the new b-bkt as I could take my chain off the old set-up and it would spin for days, smooth as a baby's bottom and the UT seems not quite so smooth. This seems to be smoothing out to some degree though. Still, I highly recommend the swap. Oh, I weigh about 240 now with no issues so far.

I switch to an alloy Centaur Ultra Torque about 1,000 miles ago and I love it. I was using an older Centaur square crankset and Chorus old school b-bkt (pre-cartridge). The Ultra Torque was a breeze to install and is very stiff. My only grip is there seems a bit more drag with the new b-bkt as I could take my chain off the old set-up and it would spin for days, smooth as a baby's bottom and the UT seems not quite so smooth. This seems to be smoothing out to some degree though. Still, I highly recommend the swap. Oh, I weigh about 240 now with no issues so far.

Any chance that square taper Centaur crank was a compact with 170mm arms? I'd really like one...

That said, I'm also getting ready to upgrade one of my bikes to Chorus 11. That's got a UT crank/BB. Guess I'll fine out then.

Any chance that square taper Centaur crank was a compact with 170mm arms? I'd really like one...

That said, I'm also getting ready to upgrade one of my bikes to Chorus 11. That's got a UT crank/BB. Guess I'll fine out then.

Sorry, 172.5 in 53/39t.... ahhhh, Chorus 11 - my Klein was just telling me on the ride today that she really really would like that. Spoiled bicycle lol....

Sorry, 172.5 in 53/39t.... ahhhh, Chorus 11 - my Klein was just telling me on the ride today that she really really would like that. Spoiled bicycle lol....

Bummer. I know that Campy made some, I've been keeping an eye on eBay for one.

My PedalForce is screaming for Chorus 11. It's currently got 1996 Mirage. Old, obsolete, but it works.

The PW BB is a nice piece of engineering, but man is it ever expensive. Have you thought about going with a compatible Token or just a Centaur BB? I use a Centaur BB with a Veloce crankset and it works very well, and is a lot cheaper.

Actually it turns out I was mistaken. Since my new frame has a 32mm seat tube and my old one had a 28.6, I thought I needed to go from a 111 to 115mm BB spindle. But it turns out that rule is only for Campy triple cranks. For doubles, the spindle length is always 111mm no matter what the seat tube diameter, so I can just move the Phil over to the new frame and keep my Veloce compact double.

Unfortunately, in the interim I've developed a case of irrational Ultra Torque upgrade lust, so I don't know how this is going to turn out :).

Actually it turns out I was mistaken. Since my new frame has a 32mm seat tube and my old one had a 28.6, I thought I needed to go from a 111 to 115mm BB spindle. But it turns out that rule is only for Campy triple cranks. For doubles, the spindle length is always 111mm no matter what the seat tube diameter, so I can just move the Phil over to the new frame and keep my Veloce compact double.

Unfortunately, in the interim I've developed a case of irrational Ultra Torque upgrade lust, so I don't know how this is going to turn out :).

If you do, I'd be very interested in that Veloce compact crankset (so long as the crank arms are 170mm)....

If you do, I'd be very interested in that Veloce compact crankset (so long as the crank arms are 170mm)....

Actually they're 172.5mm :(. That's all I could find on eBay. I'm not convinced I notice a difference though. It's hard to say because I went from a 170mm triple to a 172.5mm 34/50 compact, so I changed lots of things at once. If I go UT, I'll probably get 170mm compact so then I'd have a basis for comparison.

Bummer. I'm short, and notice the difference. Not to mention that the crank would likely end up on my wife's bike and she's about 5'4". I'll keep looking. Thanks.

I've seen some carbon Centaur 170mm square tapers around, but you'd be spending way more than an alloy UT upgrade would cost.

Wel, I happen to use a 172.5. If you upgrade I'd be interested in helping you offset the cost. :) I've been curious about this whole Compact idea for awhile.