Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Tubes/tire sizes for clydesdales?

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rumblebelly
09-01-09, 09:00 PM
Still droppin' my weight week by week, but this week I've been laid up pretty bad. 2 major flats that I couldn't patch, had to catch a ride home. I'm using 700x23 Continental Ultra gators, but the tubes I have been using are 18-23. One flat was from under inflation, my floor pump was out of commission and I had to rely on a hand pump and guessing until I my replacement came. Last flat was unknown to me. I hit a small rock on a perfectly flat road, tire was fully inflated to 120 psi. No puncture in the tires (made of kevlar iirc?). So I guess it was a pinch?
But I'm wondering if I should get 23-25 tubes, or a different brand (kenda C's are what I'm using-boxed as Giant). Something's not working for me, I'm getting too many flats from non punctures (one was, on the old tire). Should I even consider bigger tires than 23mm? I don't know if I have the receipt to take these ones back though..
10 Wheels
09-01-09, 09:04 PM
Flats are part of riding.
Get used to them.
I just rode 3700 miles across the USA.
Had 12 flats in the first 2700 miles
rumblebelly
09-01-09, 09:11 PM
Flats are part of riding.
Get used to them.
I just rode 3700 miles across the USA.
Had 12 flats in the first 2700 miles
Not really the advice I'm looking for, I've ridden 20 in the past 2 days and had 2 flats, 6 flats in the past 4 weeks.
I'm wondering if my tubes would hold up better if they were a tad larger than 18-23, or if 25mm tires would help alleviate the pinching I'm getting on my rear tire (no flats in front tire yet).
Additional info: one tube ripped at the base of the valve (the rubber ripped) when I pumped once, one tube the valve broke in half completely. Which lead me to believe maybe I should switch to a different type of tube. Being 240+ lbs doesn't help.
LarDasse74
09-01-09, 09:15 PM
It is possible that a slightly larger tube will be slightly less stretched inside the tire and be slightly less easy to puncture... but this does not really make a big difference when it comes to pinch flats.
But a larger tire (and tube) will give you more air volume to compress and a thicker cushion between your rim and the road.
Edit:
Just read you comment about tearing off valve stems... that is caused by user error during inflation, nothing more. The weight or strength of the rider has absolutely no effect on the likelyhood of breaking a valve. To prevent this from happening, never use a minipump except in emergencies... and if you must use a minipump be sure to support the head from behind the rim when you pump. And be sure you are gentle when pulling the pump head (mini pump or a real floor pump) off the valve.
rumblebelly
09-01-09, 09:18 PM
^^ Thanks. From the description of pinch flats, that sounds like what I'm getting, however there's no "snakebite" effect, there's only 1 minor hole in the tube, never a second. So I'm unsure of what that means, unless it doesn't always occur in pinches.
10 Wheels
09-01-09, 09:21 PM
It is possible that a slightly larger tube will be slightly less stretched inside the tire and be slightly less easy to puncture... but this does not really make a big difference when it comes to pinch flats.
But a larger tire (and tube) will give you more air volume to compress and a thicker cushion between your rim and the road.
My 12 flats were on New 700 X 35 Scwalbe Marathon Racer tires
with 28 to 40 tubes
LarDasse74
09-01-09, 09:37 PM
My 12 flats were on New 700 X 35 Scwalbe Marathon Racer tires
with 28 to 40 tubes
Then disregard what I said...
Best flat resistance is from using super narrow tires with even narrower tubes. Underinflated.
MilitantPotato
09-01-09, 09:52 PM
Wider tires that allow lower PSI helps. Since you don't have such a hard tire forcing objects through the tire.
I went with 35c (actually 37c) tires at 265lbs with 80-85psi, at 240 I started using 32c at 80-90PSI. If I ever hit sub 200 I'll start using 28C, but only if I keep to well paved roads. That being said, one flat in about a year that came from a evilly shaped rock that punctured the rear tire while running 110psi.
Tire type also matters, the more rubber the better. Some form of protection layer helps against larger objects like wide pieces of glass and rocks . Where thicker rubber helps is with short narrow objects.
So yea, wide tires, lower PSI, avoiding stuff, and luck help the most.
CliftonGK1
09-01-09, 10:21 PM
I'm around your size (235-ish) and ride 700 x 28 Gatorskins on my brevet bike, and 700 x 28 Vittoria Randonneur-Cross on my ss/fg.
The 28mm width gives me the ability to roll the gnarly chip-seal, hardpack fire roads, and gravel path sections on my clubs brevets, without flatting out from tagging a deep rut or a chuckhole in the dark. I keep the Gatorskins around 112psi which is pretty hard (close to top pressure rating) and only drop the pressure if the road/path really really sucks.
On the fixie, the Vittorias are much more flat resistant than the Gatorskins. I've done miles of riding on the blackberry thorn littered equestrian trail next to our MUP, over sharp rocks, etc. No problems. I keep the Vittorias at the 85psi rated top pressure. They're a heavy, hard casing tire so they can run lower and still feel smooth and quick on the pavement. They are, however, a supreme pain in the behind to mount. A pair of steel levers and a good knowledge of curse words is a must.
In both my 28mm tires I use 28 - 32mm tubes, but I keep a 23 - 25 as my roadside repair tube because it's easier to work with and not pinch it with a lever.
rumblebelly
09-01-09, 10:48 PM
Ok thanks guys, after reading some more clydesdale wheel threads a lot of people agreed that we should go with 28+ and keep lower (than max) PSI.
I'm not going down the road I got a flat on yesterday again (combination of 25-30mph downhill + rock probably was what did it), and continue with these tires and tubes, if I have anymore issues I will take the 23's back and replace them with 28's or so. Hopefully they fit my rims (that's not an issue is it? I have alex r500 rims, if that helps). Thanks guys.
Homeyba
09-01-09, 10:53 PM
I'm the same weight as you and run 23's on my single bike and my tandem (which is even heavier). I get flats but not very often and I use light race tires such as GP4000's and Michelin Pro Race tires. I have 2500 miles on the brand new tandem and have had only two front flats. If you like the 23's you should be able to use them without too many flats. If you're valve stems are breaking I might change brands. The tub ripping at the base could be from under inflation allowing the tire/tube to move on the rim causing stress where the stem is glued to the tube. hand pumbing is very un scientific, I would bet you are under inflating the tire if that's what you are using. When you get your new floor pump see if your incidence of flats goes back down.
Homeyba
09-01-09, 10:58 PM
... and replace them with 28's or so. Hopefully they fit my rims (that's not an issue is it? I have alex r500 rims, if that helps). Thanks guys.
It can be but I doubt it. If you are worried I think Sheldon Brown has a chart that you can reference on his web site. Depending on your bike you are more likely to have a problem with larger tires rubbing on the frame. You might want to check that before you buy new tires. My single bike will not accept tires larger than 23's and my tandem will not accept anythings bigger than 25's!
143gadgets
09-01-09, 11:27 PM
I think you are fine with 23s. I am 265lbs and ride on 23s. I make sure to keep my pressure up and I haven't had a problem yet. I'm riding on streets in Washington DC probably the worst in the country. :) Try a different brand of tubes. I have used Forte and specialized with out problems.
proguy747
09-02-09, 06:58 AM
Skinny tubulars...
CACycling
09-02-09, 09:55 AM
My wife and I have matching tire/tube set ups on our road bikes. 700x23 Continental UltraSport tires and Forte tubes. At 220, I outweigh her by about 80 lbs., I inflate both sets of tires to max pressure (120 psi) and, when we ride together, she flats 5 to 10 times more often than I do. I chalk it up to where I choose to ride in the lane as well as keeping a sharper eye on the roadway so I can avoid debris (and the fact that I am the one that repairs flats regardless of whose bike it is on).
On my commuter, I was flatting about every other month so I switched to 700x28 Forte GT2/k tires and Forte thorn-resistant tubes the first of the year and haven't flatted yet (but probably will on the way home now that I've made that statement).
Crabster
09-02-09, 10:08 AM
Hope I don't jinx myself but......I'm running the stock 700x25's on my Spec Sequoia. 240 miles so far and no flats. Rear spoke problems however.............:)
^^ Thanks. From the description of pinch flats, that sounds like what I'm getting, however there's no "snakebite" effect, there's only 1 minor hole in the tube, never a second. So I'm unsure of what that means, unless it doesn't always occur in pinches.
What pressure are you running?
Have you thoroughly checked the tire for the original flat culprit. Multiple flats in quick succesion and "Snakebite" with only one hole sounds more like you've still got crap in your tire than an actual pinch flat issue to me.
cmburch
09-02-09, 11:35 AM
280lb
I have never had a pinch flat and use different brands of tubes specified for 22-24mm tires. I normally use 700x23 Michelins and have flats periodically. I recently switched to Conti Attack Force with front 22mm 105psi and rear 24mm 120psi. Seem to work fine.
Jesse Miller
09-03-09, 05:40 PM
Still droppin' my weight week by week, but this week I've been laid up pretty bad. 2 major flats that I couldn't patch, had to catch a ride home. I'm using 700x23 Continental Ultra gators, but the tubes I have been using are 18-23. One flat was from under inflation, my floor pump was out of commission and I had to rely on a hand pump and guessing until I my replacement came. Last flat was unknown to me. I hit a small rock on a perfectly flat road, tire was fully inflated to 120 psi. No puncture in the tires (made of kevlar iirc?). So I guess it was a pinch?
But I'm wondering if I should get 23-25 tubes, or a different brand (kenda C's are what I'm using-boxed as Giant). Something's not working for me, I'm getting too many flats from non punctures (one was, on the old tire). Should I even consider bigger tires than 23mm? I don't know if I have the receipt to take these ones back though..
I have 700x23c on my Fuji and I have only got one flat so far. I hit a 4in bolt in the bike lane. When you replace the tube, do not tighten the nut for the presta valve too tight. (VERY LOOSE) Also, get a mini floor pump with a flex hose for when you get a flat on the road. You might want to buy some kevlar tire liners and insert them inside your tire to protect the tube. I did this to my road bike and I have had no problems, other than that bolt. By the way, I am around 250lbs. Buy some thicker walled tubes. If you can find them, buy some puncture proof tubes and use those. Most road bike tubes come with ultra thin tubes, which pop like baloons. You need to buy regular thick walled 23c tubes. Forte has tubes that are .19mm thick. Most ultra light tubes are .6mm thick. See the difference.
bamacrazy
09-03-09, 06:24 PM
My 12 flats were on New 700 X 35 Scwalbe Marathon Racer tires
with 28 to 40 tubes
Hey 10Wheels,
What brand of tubes do you use? I have Scwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x35s on my bike. Which tubes have you had the best luck with?
10 Wheels
09-03-09, 06:29 PM
Hey 10Wheels,
What brand of tubes do you use? I have Scwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x35s on my bike. Which tubes have you had the best luck with?
I get into lots of glass and wire.
On today's 104 mile ride a sharp oyster shell cut a friend tire.
Continental tubes might be better then some.
rumblebelly
09-03-09, 11:17 PM
I ordered some forte tubes that are a size bigger than the ones I'm using now and thicker as well not the ultra lights which is what I've been having. I'm hoping to have no problems on my ride tomorrow, I will also not be using the road I have horrible experiences on. I've mapped out a really nice ride actually.
I looked at my first popped tube and it was a snakebite, but my last one was not. Definitely checking for things in my tires that aren't supposed to be there tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
nymtber
09-03-09, 11:26 PM
When I had my 2006 Specialized Allez, I was running Michelin Krylion Carbon 700x23c tires, and the cheapest tubes I could get from pricepoint.com or jensonusa.com (forget which it was) Never had flats, and I know (saw it) I rolled over lots of broken glass and sharp rocks. Kept it at 110/115psi front/rear. I was about 225lbs. They arnt cheap, but they are fast, light, and very durable. Probably had 500 miles on them and they still looked new. I wish michelin made them in a bit wider sizes, I would get them for my Sirrus.
rumblebelly
09-03-09, 11:32 PM
Carbon tires? I'm confused when things are called carbon, like "carbon soled shoes", does it actually mean it's made of carbon? I'm used to things like carbon forks or carbon tripods. Sorry if that sounds dumb.
My tires so far are great, I just checked last night and no punctures. All my flats are un-puncture related. If I still have problems with a different tube brand/size I will swap tires out for bigger.
jayp410
09-07-09, 09:48 AM
At 210-220 lb, I use 25mm Conti 4000's at 105 lb front / 110 lb back, and have never had a pinch flat...and I regularly go over one of the worst roads I've ever seen - a concrete road with sharp cracks in every joint, potholes, etc. Not sure what pressure would be required at 23mm but higher pressure definitely *increases* your risk of puncture flats due to rocks, as the tire deforms more sharply around the rock and stretches the rubber more. The few times I've tried 120 PSI I've definitely had more flats. Yesterday a guy I was riding with got a puncture from a rock and it didn't even look like a puncture - it looked like just a scuff mark, just a little lighter in color than the rest of the tube. Another possibility is maybe you're getting the tube pinched underneath the bead of the tire or hitting the tube with the tire levers when changing tubes. When inflating a tube after it gets to maybe 30-40 lbs I roll the tire and tube to each side to make sure the tube is not pinched under the tire.
I rode the Bontrager Race Lite Hardcase 700*28 on my Hybrid for almost 2800 miles, had 1 flat and they still had life left in them until I cut a sidewall accidentally while working in my garage. Long story...:notamused:. Anyway, I highly recommend them. I moved to 700*25 on the bike now and run the 700*23's versions on my CAAD9. Heavy, yes, but... long lasting, yes, flat protection, yes. That is a WIN, WIN for me. Oh and keep those tire pumped to 115 or 120.
nymtber
09-07-09, 07:14 PM
Carbon tires? I'm confused when things are called carbon, like "carbon soled shoes", does it actually mean it's made of carbon? I'm used to things like carbon forks or carbon tripods. Sorry if that sounds dumb.
My tires so far are great, I just checked last night and no punctures. All my flats are un-puncture related. If I still have problems with a different tube brand/size I will swap tires out for bigger.
If you were asking a question towards me with the krylion Carbon tires, Michelin puts carbon IN the rubber compound for the tread area. I believe they claim it increase durability. The tires I had on my Allez had about 500 miles when I sold it, and the tires still looked brand new.
I rarely get flats, probably pure luck though. Running good tires helps, and the cheaper tubes seem to be heavier duty rubber, so while they weigh more, they are thicker. There is always a trade off :)
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