Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Pick my new bike - Under $1250

Quick stats: road bike, 5'10" 278 LBS. Full story below.

After wrestling my beast into and out of an aircaddy, on the streets of NY, and through Tropical Storm Danny for 102 miles along the South Shore of Long Island, I'm ready to abandon my previous bike-buying strategy. I had planned on waiting until I was around 220 lbs to spring for something really nice, but it seems increasingly silly to continue to punish myself unnecessarily (and not get speed) when I don't have to. I'm still going to buy myself a sweet-sweet (read $$$$) reward bike when I get down in the low 200s, but having made the journey from 5'10" 396 lbs to no longer being morbidly obese at 278 lbs, I want a new bike that doesn't need to be wrestled. Not willing to spend the big $$$ now because I want a goal reward and I want to put the money into a better bike not just getting components that will hold more weight.

Current ride: 2007 Specialized Hardrock Sport with 26x2.35 Big Apple Tires and a trunk rack. The beast has carried me through 4 centuries this summer (STP, Crater Lake, Ride to Montauk) and will likely remain my daily commuter. New bike should be good for 40+ mile weekend road rides all the way up to unsupported centuries and longer with the possibility of throwing a rack/trunk on the back. Don't want to spend more than $1250 or so. I'm reluctant to give up my low MTB gearing, but I also know I'll just have to adjust and build capacity on the new ride. I have no brand allegiance (or knowledge) so hit me. Willing to entertain ideas on used as well as new.

Congrats on the weight loss & four century rides!


I would suggest a bike with road triple crankset that accepts 700 X 28 or larger tires.

This comes to mind: http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/road/aurora/09_aurora.html

or http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/road/aurora/09_auroraelite.html

or http://www.rei.com/product/776887

These have STI shifting, strong wheels and touring geometry. They are comfortable to ride over long distances.

Surly LHT is another good one. Chuck H. with the randos rides an LHT (although he did build his up from a frame,) and he's doing Jan's 600k next weekend. The complete is not a super fast bike, but it's got decent components, it's sturdy, and it will handle wide tires and all the racks you could ever want to put on it.

Just about anything has gotta be faster than the beast!

Barrettscv has a nice list and CliftonGK1 shares your locality. Seattle has a great cycling community and if distance and comfort are your thing (aren't they everyones?) my bet is Clifton's buddies in the Brevet scene can expose you to a tone of options.

Congratulations on the progress so far. It sure looks to me like have a well founded understanding of what you want in a bike and why. Don't hate the Beast too much, it's a great bike in own right, but like the ol' saying goes, your first bike isn't your last bike:thumb:

Get a Cross Check. Fairly reasonble gearing stock, room for fat tires and fenders. It's a great do it all bike. I'm shocked Clifton recommended the LHT over it.

If you currently ride a flat handle mtb, you surely want to test ride a drop handle bike a LOT before you decide if it is for you or not. A quick spin wont let your body really feel how it is to be hunched over. I sold my Allez last year, and have a flat handle Sirrus hybrid as of Tuesday. I'm much happier with it and 100x more comfortable. I find myself WANTING to take the sirrus out as opposed to making myself take the allez out. Also, I was never too keen on handling with a road bike, because of the bars, or braking ability. I have big hands, but short fingers, those brifters just aren't made for me.

Test some bikes see what ya like. Jamis makes a whole bunch of steel framed bikes, and the touring bikes do look nice since you ride long distance. Take a look at the Coda line, ride one, and ride one of the road bike geared touring bikes. See which is more comfortable. You can always add bar ends on a flat bar to give you more hand position options. You DO NOT have to give up your mtb gearing just to get skinny slicks. At least not completely. A lot of the flat handle road bikes/hybrids have mountain like crankset and 32 tooth cassettes. As your ability improves, you can swap out cassettes (not that expensive) 28 tooth and get more gear options in between. Some of the higher end "hybrid" bikes actually have road cranksets but still lower geared cassettes so you can get up the hills or fight wind. I think touring bikes also have more gear options so you can haul loads up hills.

And, Congrats on loosing weight and having an overall goal to meet!

Quick stats: road bike, 5'10" 278 LBS. Full story below.

After wrestling my beast into and out of an aircaddy, on the streets of NY, and through Tropical Storm Danny for 102 miles along the South Shore of Long Island, I'm ready to abandon my previous bike-buying strategy... ...Not willing to spend the big $$$ now because I want a goal reward and I want to put the money into a better bike not just getting components that will hold more weight....

...I'm reluctant to give up my low MTB gearing, but I also know I'll just have to adjust and build capacity on the new ride. I have no brand allegiance (or knowledge) so hit me. Willing to entertain ideas on used as well as new.

Hi again.

The three bikes I suggested have some significant differences in gearing, wheels & weight.

The REI Novara Randonee Touring Bike: This has the lowest gearing, more like a mountain bike with a 48/36/26t crankset. The rear cassette is more like a road bike with a 11-28 nine speed range. This gearing will get you up the steepest hills, yet will maintain 30 mph at a normal cadence. The wheels are the widest and very strong. These will hold any tire from 28mm to 40+mm. The bike is the heaviest, but will carry all you need for extended touring.

The Jamis Aurora: This also has the low gearing, but uses a road triple with a 50/39/30t crankset. The rear cassette is more like a mountain bike with an 11-32 nine speed range. This gearing will get you up steep hills, yet will maintain 30+ mph at a normal cadence. The wheels are normal road bike wheels that feature 36 spokes, these are strong enough for 300 lbs. These will hold any tire from 23mm to 32mm. The bike is the heavy, but will carry all you need for extended touring.

The Jamis Aurora Elite: This bike has road gearing, and uses a road triple with a 50/39/30t crankset. The rear cassette is a road bike type with a 12-27 ten speed range. This gearing will get you up steep hills, yet will maintain 30+ mph at a normal cadence. However, this gearing is not ideal for loaded touring and could be an issue on ultra steep hills. The wheels are strong road bike wheels that feature 32 spokes, these are strong enough for 300 lbs. These will hold any tire from 23mm to 32mm. The bike is the lightest by 5 lbs. This bike will feel faster than the others and might delay that need for an upgrade longer than the other two.

Hope that helped.

Michael

New bike should be good for 40+ mile weekend road rides all the way up to unsupported centuries and longer with the possibility of throwing a rack/trunk on the back. Don't want to spend more than $1250 or so. I'm reluctant to give up my low MTB gearing, but I also know I'll just have to adjust and build capacity on the new ride. I have no brand allegiance (or knowledge) so hit me. Willing to entertain ideas on used as well as new.

Check out the Easy Racer Gold Rush (http://www.easyracers.com/04-gold_rush.htm) for sale here (http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?p=530000#post530000) for $1600. A shade more $, but what a bike!

You're gonna get a lot of good suggestions in this thread, so the only thing I'll add is to test ride anything you might be interested in buying. The Novara, Jamis and Surly are all good bikes. I ride a LHT, but I checked out the others and rode them a bit before I decided to purchase. Once you're on the thing, you'll be able to tell which feels right. . .and now for the obligatory LHT plug:

The LHT has eyelets for racks and fenders, and it feels solid underneath. The gearing is MTB-ish enough to get you and your gear up and over just about anything--our stats are identical and gearing was a big thing for me too to help overcome gravity and "natural drag. " Barcons are fun, but you can pretty easily rock any handlebar/break combo you prefer (especially if you have other bikes to cannibalize). Um. . .3 water bottle cages? Just ride em all and pick the one you like best.

This bike doesn't have a triple but it is a great price for 105 components, it is one i have been looking at. http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2010-Product-Catalog/Road/Z-Series/Z85.aspx
the other is this http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/road/2266/32192/ which uses sora but does have a triple.

Forget about asking for recommendations for a bike at this point. Go to a bunch of different shops and test ride a mess of bikes. That's the only way you'll get an idea of what you like and don't like.

Surly LHT is another good one. Chuck H. with the randos rides an LHT (although he did build his up from a frame,) and he's doing Jan's 600k next weekend. The complete is not a super fast bike, but it's got decent components, it's sturdy, and it will handle wide tires and all the racks you could ever want to put on it.


I'm with Clifton on this one.

I'm a fair bit lighter at 6'2" 235#, and was looking for a bike that could easily support an additional 60-70# of touring load, so I bought the Surly LHT "complete" a few weeks ago, and got it assembled by the LBS for under your spec price. I kinda wish I'd have known about this bike before I made a purchase last year.

Not as nimble, nor does it accelerate as fast as my Cannondale Synapse, but boy oh boy does that steel ride nice!! I've already had it on a few 40+ mile rides and it's a dream! ... and you could still throw in a Brooks Saddle (like I did) and be around $1200. :)

It came with MTB gearing (48/36/26 triple and 11-34 cassette) and 37mm tires. Should get you nicely where you want to go!

Good luck with your search! There are some great steel bikes out there! So many bikes... so little time!

I was about your weight when I bought my Jamis Coda. There is only one thing that has been a problem-the back wheel. I destroyed it. Under 200 miles. Popping spokes like candy. I had it replaced with a Velocity Dyad 36 spoke rear wheel, and all good ever since. Considering the price of the bike, even with the charge for the new wheel you would be well under budget. It has full brazeons for fenders, front and rear racks and two water bottles. It's really not a hybrid so much as a flat bar touring bike. I've done rides up to 90 miles (yesterday actually) in total comfort. I've ditched the suspension seatpost (to get more accurate seat adjustment) and added grips and barends (for more hand positions) I do a pretty good job of keeping up with the roadbikes in group rides.

I too have a weight restricted promise to get a roadbike...200lbs (or when I fit back in my favorite suit, whichever comes first)

Get a Cross Check. Fairly reasonble gearing stock, room for fat tires and fenders. It's a great do it all bike. I'm shocked Clifton recommended the LHT over it.

I only suggest the LHT over the CC because I know the terrain around here and talked (albeit breifly) with Kamala about the type of riding he's looking to do. The stock gearing on the CC would have him hating life on the long grinding uphills we have. Heck, I couldn't stand the stock gearing and replaced it within the first 250 miles of owning the bike. I swapped it for a 34t inner ring up front and an 11 - 32 cassette in back for something closer to a touring span of gear choices.
For a stock ride that will need very little modification, I thought the LHT was the better of the two. (Which is surprising, since I really love my Cross Check; but like I said, it's heavily modded.)


If you currently ride a flat handle mtb, you surely want to test ride a drop handle bike a LOT before you decide if it is for you or not. A quick spin wont let your body really feel how it is to be hunched over.
A drop bar doesn't mean you'll be "hunched over" any more than a flat bar does. I set my Cross Check up for long-distance riding, with a shorter, steeper stem (100mm, 25 degree) to bring my bars almost even wtih my saddle. A proper fit session will assure that you're comfortable on the bike, regardless of the bar type.

Kamala - I got my fit done at Sammamish Valley Cycles, which is SiR's home base (Mark T. owns the place). SiR members get a discount there, and Rick O. is an excellent long-distance fitter. 50% of your fitting price is also deducted from the purchase cost if you buy your bike there.

The Kona Jake has a triple, can take bigger tires, has braze ons for racks and fenders,and a pretty good drive train for the price. Leaves you some change from 1250 for pedals and shoes and general accessories.

Finally got a chance to cruise on some test bikes today. Really like the Aurora Elite and the LHT. Not really sure which way I'm going to go or how to make the decision between the two. Did not like the bar end shifters on the LHT. Actually, that's not completely true, but I don't like them being so far from the brakes for commuting around here. Wasn't a huge fan of the stock saddle either. Liked the fit and feel of both frames a lot, although wasn't super-keen on the LHT handlebars either. Might be more fun to build up the LHT from a frame.

Any thoughts on where to go from here on narrowing things down and pulling the trigger?

It really should come down to fit. The Elite is sportier, but does it fit better? You can always upgrade componients, but the frame needs to fit well.

Michael

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45685&eid=4350

That would be my choice if there's a Specialized dealer near you. I rode one when I was 270#. It never gave me the first problem. You should be able to get it in the price range you're looking to spend.

Of course, I'm kind of partial to Specialized....

The essential problem is that I'm experiencing what it would be like if you took some dude off a conestoga wagon on the Oregon Trail and took him to a car dealership and said "pick out what you think fits best." I've never been on a bike with a tire narrower than 2.1" or something other than flat handlebars. Well, except my banana seat cruiser at 8 years old. The scientific process breaks down when every single variable is different. I've never had to pay any real heed to the minor bumps, cracks, and holes on our local MUP because I could just crush everything on the Hardrock. Hell, I was ecstatic running up and down the steps to the bike shop deck because I could carry the bikes one handed without fear of killing myself or others!

They honestly both felt good although my hands hurt a bit on the Aurora Elite. That seems more like an adjustment issue than a frame fit issue. But I'm willing to believe I'm wrong on that. In short, it appears I don't really know how to shop for a bike.

Kamala, I know exactly where you're coming from. I'm riding my Worksman, looking for something faster, in a similar price range.

One problem I've run into is that most of the bikes that sound promising on paper (rather, online), nobody around here actually stocks them. For example, I'd have to drive 200 miles to Austin to test-ride a Long Haul Trucker, and wouldn't know until I got there if they actually had one in the right size. I can test ride a Raleigh Sojourn, but they don't have that in the size I need, period, so even if I test ride an almost-large-enough frame, I simply can't buy the right one. I went to the local Jamis dealer, but didn't see a single Jamis bike in stock in my walk-around of a fairly small store. And so it goes. I'm thinking I'll wind up going in for a fitting and go from there. But it seemed simpler before I started looking. If I was already riding a bike pretty similar, and just buying a new one to tweak the geometry, it wouldn't bother me as much to buy it sight-unseen. But to order one in special having never ridden anything like it seems sort of a major step. I've got an offer of a loan of a road bike, but I'd have to come up with seat and pedals for it (think I could use my unicycle pedals).

One problem I have is that I can google and read that Component A is better than Component B, but I don't have any way of saying whether it's worth paying $10 extra or $50 extra or what.

One problem I'm having is that if I list the features I'd like to have, it puts me into a heavier bike with wider tires (ie, 32mm-37mm or so)- that is, puts me on the ends of the spectrum closest to the bike I already have, when I'm specifically buying a new bike to get away from that...if that makes sense.

For what it's worth, the bikes I was looking at were:
Surly Long Haul Trucker
Salsa Casaroll
Fuji Touring
Trek 520 (actually available locally, maybe not in the right size)
Raleigh Sojourn (available at REI, but not in the right size, but on sale now)
Masi Speciales Randonneur
Jamis Aurora
Rocky Mountain Sherpa
Bianchi Volpe

The bike shop I've been riding with is a Cannondale dealer, but Cannondale doesn't have very good choices in the touring-type bikes, and the dealer doesn't stock their touring bikes anyway, as apparently, nobody around here tours.

it appears I don't really know how to shop for a bike.

What You Should Look For in A Bike


1. Suitability of bike: Decide what type of bike you are thinking of, what type of riding you are planning, what you expect from the bike, and how much you are willing to spend. Then you select bikes that are designed to meet your requirements.

I think you have already done #1.


2. Fit: A bike must be comfortable to ride for the distances you plan to ride it. As you mentioned above, there may or may not be adjustments and modifications to be made to improve the fit of a bike.
The shop where you buy your bike should be willing to take the time get a bike adjusted to your body, especially after you have decided to buy a bike from them. What steps they take to do this varies from shop to shop.

It sounds like you have found a bike you like and that meets your requirements (the Aurora Elite).
You should see if you can get the fit issues sorted out, and see if there are any others.

The type of bike you should consider are "touring" bikes or, "road sport", or "cyclocross" (or "CX") bikes.

But when the bike fits and will meet your needs, buy it.

A member has listed it, a Jamis Aurora, two dif. styles, one's in your range. It would handle your wt. should you insist on a road bike.

One problem I'm having is that if I list the features I'd like to have, it puts me into a heavier bike with wider tires (ie, 32mm-37mm or so)- that is, puts me on the ends of the spectrum closest to the bike I already have,


If you buy good quality wide tyres of this width the rolling resistance will be very low - eg Marathon Supremes at $80 per pair.

And a drop handle will be vastly more aero than an MTB. My crosser, even with its offroad tyres on, is MUCH faster than my slicked hardtail MTB.



For what it's worth, the bikes I was looking at were:
Surly Long Haul Trucker
Salsa Casaroll
Fuji Touring
Trek 520 (actually available locally, maybe not in the right size)
Raleigh Sojourn (available at REI, but not in the right size, but on sale now)
Masi Speciales Randonneur
Jamis Aurora
Rocky Mountain Sherpa
Bianchi Volpe


Look at a Kona Jake. A cross bike but lighter than the Cross Check and should be much easier to find. There are lots of reviews of them around - including on these forums - this is not a bike that has problems keeping up with a full on racer, and there are Clydes here that rider it. You could look at a Specialized Tricross too, although I'm dubious about the carbon components - I'd certainly change the seatpost for a better one at your weight. With either, put those Supremes on.

Also, is there any reason I shouldn't move the saddle from my MTB to the new bike (assuming same seat post size)? I've been comfortable on it for 100+ mile rides, so why mess with a good thing?

EDIT - Nevermind on seatpost part of question. I actually understand how everything's connected now. I think. Saddle and seatpost are clamped together, so both fully interchangeable. Right?

Also, is there any reason I shouldn't move the saddle from my MTB to the new bike (assuming same seat post size)? I've been comfortable on it for 100+ mile rides, so why mess with a good thing?

EDIT - Nevermind on seatpost part of question. I actually understand how everything's connected now. I think. Saddle and seatpost are clamped together, so both fully interchangeable. Right?

Use whichever saddle you like on whichever bike you like.
Your favourite mtb saddle may feel a little different with the different fit of a road or touring bike. Then again, it may not. There is only one way to find out for sure!

Thoughts on swapping out the 30T low ring on the Jamis Aurora Elite for a 26T or 24T but keeping the rest of the rings the same? Lots of long grinding hills around here and I'm worried about getting my big body up them. Too much gap between the low ring and the middle 39T? Can I alleviate the big gap issue by shifting far down on the cassette while in the middle ring before dropping to granny on the front? I think if this change is reasonable that might alleviate might reservations on the Jamis over the LHT and I'd be getting close to pulling the trigger.

Ultegra GS rear derailleur has a capacity (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#capacity) of 39teeth, and the stock Aurora Elite only requires a derailleur with a capacity of 35 (50-30 + 27-12)... so the rear derailleur can handle a 26 tooth small ring.

However, the front derailleur has a capacity of 20 teeth and switching to a 26 tooth small ring would necessitate a derailleur with a capacity of 24 teeth.

This does not mean it won't work - just that there may be some combinations (possibly only cross chaining) where your front derailleur rubs on the chain.

Just so you know, it is much more of a pain in the arse to switch chainrings than it is to switch cogs... if you need your easiest gears to be a touch easier you can go to a casette with a 30 or 32 tooth large cog - but this might be hard to find (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/k7.html#10), and possibly make it necessary to run a mtb rear derailleur (which will work perfectly, but adds to the complexity of the modification).

Thoughts on swapping out the 30T low ring on the Jamis Aurora Elite for a 26T or 24T but keeping the rest of the rings the same? Lots of long grinding hills around here and I'm worried about getting my big body up them. Too much gap between the low ring and the middle 39T? Can I alleviate the big gap issue by shifting far down on the cassette while in the middle ring before dropping to granny on the front? I think if this change is reasonable that might alleviate might reservations on the Jamis over the LHT and I'd be getting close to pulling the trigger.

Do you plan on doing loaded touring, or mostly light touring/randonneuring type riding and club centuries?

If you're not loading 50 pounds of weight on it and doing the Sunrise or Stevens Pass climbs, then I wouldn't go with a lower than 1:1 bailout gear. The stock 30/27 low end is more than adequate for any long grinder climbs around here; most of which are under 6% grade. Even the 542 climb isn't bad on a slightly taller than 1:1 gear.
The issue with too low of gearing is that you'll burn out your energy spinning away like a madman and not actually going anywhere.

Do you plan on doing loaded touring, or mostly light touring/randonneuring type riding and club centuries?

If you're not loading 50 pounds of weight on it and doing the Sunrise or Stevens Pass climbs, then I wouldn't go with a lower than 1:1 bailout gear. The stock 30/27 low end is more than adequate for any long grinder climbs around here; most of which are under 6% grade. Even the 542 climb isn't bad on a slightly taller than 1:1 gear.


Ultegra GS rear derailleur has a capacity (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#capacity) of 39teeth, and the stock Aurora Elite only requires a derailleur with a capacity of 35 (50-30 + 27-12)... so the rear derailleur can handle a 26 tooth small ring.

However, the front derailleur has a capacity of 20 teeth and switching to a 26 tooth small ring would necessitate a derailleur with a capacity of 24 teeth.

This does not mean it won't work - just that there may be some combinations (possibly only cross chaining) where your front derailleur rubs on the chain.

Just so you know, it is much more of a pain in the arse to switch chainrings than it is to switch cogs... if you need your easiest gears to be a touch easier you can go to a casette with a 30 or 32 tooth large cog - but this might be hard to find (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/k7.html#10), and possibly make it necessary to run a mtb rear derailleur (which will work perfectly, but adds to the complexity of the modification).

Okay gents, sounds like I was trying to solve a problem I wasn't going to have with an unnecessarily complicated solution. Loaded touring up Sunrise/Stevens seems unlikely, more apt to partake in randos and club centuries. Part of my issue may be that I'm thinking about my current weight and not my future weight. Guess I'll just have to train a bit harder now that I don't have the luxury of great-great-great-grandma gear on the MTB.

Currently I'm investigating 36 spoke wheel with dyno hub cost at the recommendation of my bike mentor (he's my Obi Wan and I trust him on commuting issues). I think I might be ready to make some decisions very soon!

Did not like the bar end shifters on the LHT.Keep in mind that you can swap out the shifters for STI or another option. I had a set of brake pulls added onto my LHT for a more upright commuting posture. The bar end shifters have not proven to be an issue for me. In fact, I like the fact that I can adjust them by slightly pulling/pushing the lever if my derailleur gets out of adjustment.

Keep in mind that you can swap out the shifters for STI or another option. I had a set of brake pulls added onto my LHT for a more upright commuting posture. The bar end shifters have not proven to be an issue for me. In fact, I like the fact that I can adjust them by slightly pulling/pushing the lever if my derailleur gets out of adjustment.

Since my road bike already has STI's, I went a step further in making the LHT unique by taking the rear derailleur out of index mode and doing strictly friction shifting. So not only do I get bar end shifters, I can trim it into place.

I know there are advantages to using "muscle memory", but I like having each bike unique enough that it's an experience unto itself. I think if I had STI's on the LHT, it would just seem like a slower, less-responsive road bike to me.

I'm going to ride them both again, but I felt ever so slightly more comfortable on the AE. Given my more current definite needs (commuting, long club rides, and tri-training) coupled with my near-term aspirational goals (brevets, already attempted one and I don't think Clifton will let me not do one (and likely more) next summer) versus things I'm sort-of thinking about (loaded touring), the AE seems to make more sense right now for my biking fun. Once I start goofing around with the LHT, either swapping things on a complete or building up from a frame, it's going to be pretty close to the AE in price, so not a huge gain there, certainly not enough to vault it over the AE.

I should say that it's not that I don't like the bar end shifters on the LHT, but I absolutely do not want them on my commuter. My morning commute is a time trial/high-intensity ride and I frequently get stuck at lights and need to gear down/brake very quickly. I'm just not comfortable dealing with the brakes and gears so far apart with no hope of operating them at the same time.

Well, not to toss another option at you but yesterday at the LBS I couldn't help but notice that the 2010 Specialized Tricross Sport MSRP has come down to $1200...down from $1450 MSRP in the 09 model :mad: (guess which year I have and bought just 3 months ago :rolleyes: ). The components stayed the same which is unusual considering the price drop.

Anyways, the Tricross really is an amusing bicycle. It is classified as a cyclocross bike but in my humble opinion it is really more of a touring bike. It has mounts for fenders, rear rack, low rider front rack (on a carbon fork of all things), brake bosses for a six pack rack, triple crank, obnoxiously low gears (11-34 9 speed), and seat stays that are about a half inch shorter than that of the much regarded LHT. All this with STI shifting (tiagra) included. A wheel and rubber swap will give you a racy feel when you want to go fast and the stock wheels and rubber makes for excellent commuting tires. They (wheels) are more than a little bit on the heavy side though. All in all, this bike is the precise match for what you asked for.

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45904&eid=4670

Bau

My biking Obi-Wan would throw me out of the Jedi Academy if I bought another aluminum frame. Definitely intrigued by the idea of the tricross, but next bike will be steel.

My biking Obi-Wan would throw me out of the Jedi Academy if I bought another aluminum frame. Definitely intrigued by the idea of the tricross, but next bike will be steel.

It's ok, come to the dark side...we have cookies and punch!

It's ok, come to the dark side...we have cookies and punch!

Cookies are the path to the dark side. Cookies lead to fat. Fat leads to sloth. Sloth leads to suffering. My doctor senses many cookies in me. :twitchy:

Deposit paid! 53 cm 2009 Jamis Aurora Elite shall soon be mine! Not soon enough though. Trading in the stock wheels for 36 spoke Mavic A719s with a Shimano dynamo hub and Marathon Supremes. As you can see, the $1250 limit has taken a bit of a beating. When I told my wife, she said that's what she expected to happen anyway. Dang it, it's still not here!

Now I just need to figure out what lights to hook up to the hub.

Wait a tick...you're 5'10'' and bought a 53cm bike? Unless you have a really odd leg to torso ratio, I think you bought way too small of a bike. Rather your shop pushed a left over bike on you that wasnt the right size. You better go haul butt to another shop to get fitted for another bike before you end up pissing away $1500 on a bike that is too small and won't be comfortable. If the other shop says you need something closer to a 56-58 then I would call and cancel your deposit. I'm sure there is another shop in Seattle that sells Jamis.

I told you to come to the dark side but nnooooo :p

Wait a tick...you're 5'10'' and bought a 53cm bike? Unless you have a really odd leg to torso ratio, I think you bought way too small of a bike. Rather your shop pushed a left over bike on you that wasnt the right size. You better go haul butt to another shop to get fitted for another bike before you end up pissing away $1500 on a bike that is too small and won't be comfortable. If the other shop says you need something closer to a 56-58 then I would call and cancel your deposit. I'm sure there is another shop in Seattle that sells Jamis.

I do have a very odd leg to torso ratio and 5'9.5" or 5'9.75" is probably more accurate. Only 30 inch inseam. I'm all torso. Actually, l'm a good amount torso and a sick amount of skull. On the upside for people watching me run, my legs move around like Fred Flintstone powering his car.

Shop had to order the 53; the 55 they had in stock and the shop was full-up of bikes. Like you, I assume they would prefer to get stock out the door rather than special order. The shop does a full fitting with me on the bike before it goes out the door with me and I'll be sure to make sure the question is asked again.


I told you to come to the dark side but nnooooo :p

The cookies were tempting :-)

Quick stats: road bike, 5'10" 278 LBS. Full story below.

After wrestling my beast into and out of an aircaddy, on the streets of NY, and through Tropical Storm Danny for 102 miles along the South Shore of Long Island, I'm ready to abandon my previous bike-buying strategy. I had planned on waiting until I was around 220 lbs to spring for something really nice, but it seems increasingly silly to continue to punish myself unnecessarily (and not get speed) when I don't have to. I'm still going to buy myself a sweet-sweet (read $$$$) reward bike when I get down in the low 200s, but having made the journey from 5'10" 396 lbs to no longer being morbidly obese at 278 lbs, I want a new bike that doesn't need to be wrestled. Not willing to spend the big $$$ now because I want a goal reward and I want to put the money into a better bike not just getting components that will hold more weight.

Current ride: 2007 Specialized Hardrock Sport with 26x2.35 Big Apple Tires and a trunk rack. The beast has carried me through 4 centuries this summer (STP, Crater Lake, Ride to Montauk) and will likely remain my daily commuter. New bike should be good for 40+ mile weekend road rides all the way up to unsupported centuries and longer with the possibility of throwing a rack/trunk on the back. Don't want to spend more than $1250 or so. I'm reluctant to give up my low MTB gearing, but I also know I'll just have to adjust and build capacity on the new ride. I have no brand allegiance (or knowledge) so hit me. Willing to entertain ideas on used as well as new.

You were probably looking for recommendations for modern stuff currently on the market...

However, I'm going to take a different tack.

The Cannondale 3.0 frame (were not talking about CAAD3, or subsequent versions here) was the stiffest frame ever tested on the Bicycling magazine testing jig (the 'tarantula') not to mention being the lightest bicycle frame in the world (at the time of its release).

For a road bike a 'classic' Cannondale 3.0 frame doesn't get enough credit for being unworldly strong, incredibly light (even in the carbon era its no heavyweight), and a flat out rocket to ride (you pedal, you go forward. Period.). These bikes received a lot of criticism as being 'harsh' by many cyclists who were used to the completely inefficient, yet springy steel bikes of yesterday. Completely untrue. Comparing a flexy noodle like steel bike with tiny tubes to a Cannondale frame was like comparing bias ply tires to a radial. They are just completely different. Ninety-five percent of the people on the road want radial tires. That select group that prefers vinyl to CDs or high bit rate MP3s will talk about "steel being real", but no competitive cyclists ride on steel bikes today. UCI Pro teams ride exclusively on carbon, aluminum, and titanium.

You could pick up a Cannondale 3.0 in 'your size' have a mind blowing custom paint job laid down on it by CycleArt including painting a carbon fork to match. High end good carbon forks will handle your weight (Wound-Up, Alpha-Q).

You could spec that bike however you wanted with modern functional stuff like SRAM Rival, or go 8-speed (still preferred by those who tour unsupported and for good reasons that are important to Clydes, namely being bombproof and not tempermental) and get Ultegra, Mavic (Mavic's 8 speed SSC stuff is legendary to the point that the same kit that Lemond won a Tour de France on, and that Sean Kelly won Paris-Robaix on is the same as was made available to their mountain bike group, the rear derailleur having a longer cage and the rear hub spacing being wider the only major exceptions), or even full Dura-Ace.

I think most cyclists think 'newer' is always better, but that absolutely just isn't the case.

With the money you save on your 'classic' Cannondale you could invest in a set of custom built Phil Wood hubs built up into light bombproof wheels (Mavic a719s, or Velocity Chukkers). A bike has more to do with the wheels than the frame in almost all cases anyway...

That's a bike I'd rather have than something crappy around the $1200 price point today...

I'm 6'7 and 375 and can completely torque most frames, with noticeable visible bottom bracket deflection...the only thing I don't love about my Cannondale 3.0 is that its only a 63cm frame and much too small. I'd be a happy cyclist if I could find a 27" touring frame (68.5cm) or even a 66cm or 68cm frame.

A 3.0 is light enough to race, yet strong enough to carry all but the heaviest 400lb + Clydes, and stiff enough that rider weight doesn't compromise the ride and handling of the frame whatsover (a huge factor when many bikes are designed for a 150lb to 175lb target rider).

New bike ready Friday! Actually, it's just about ready now but don't have time for proper fitting/shakedown ride until Friday.

the force is strong in this one...

new bike friday huh?

do you see many many pix associated with the posting you will be doing once you get home??? (of course after you go put the first 20 miles on it...)

I do ;) or we will all use the force to choke you out with cookies...

I could probably squeeze out the time earlier this week, but my wife is home for one week between 5 week stints in Fargo and India. We all know how it goes when new toys are involved. Plus, the final pieces of my rain gear are in the mail and its gross out here. If I had the bike, I'd still ride sans gear. So no time with Mrs plus getting sick from being sopping wet and cold equals doghouse, big time. After the bike purchase, I can't afford to add any schmuck-penalty costs with her 30th birthday and our 5th anniversary coming up, so I'm telling myself what I need to in order to stay out of the doghouse :-)

Here's the new rig!!! Inaugural commute in a few hours!

Picasa album because I'm incompetent at including photos in a post. (http://picasaweb.google.com/mike001/NewCommutingBrevetBike?authkey=Gv1sRgCOeYkvH_8cf1cA&feat=directlink)

Great looking bike!

This bike will satisfy for a long time. It will also be versatile. It will be light and fast enough for many group rides while also allowing light touring. It will be a first class commuter.

Congrats!

Michael

Congrats on the new ride, she's a beaut!