Bicycle Mechanics - I want to remove the two lowest gears on my cassette

So I have a 8 geared cassette and I basically never use the two lowest gears. And I live on a fairly steep hill and I've never dropped below 3rd gear in back and 2nd gear in front when I come up that hill, even after 40 mile rides.

Is this something people normally do? I want to do it because those two gears are useless weight, and that weight is part of the tire, which makes it even worse. So I'm just trying to get rid of that weight.

Its a Trek 7.3FX and I plan on doing some 50 or 60 mile rides once in a while, the farthest I've gone in one run is currently around 45 - 50 miles on it. And I do around 20 - 30 mile rides two or three times a week. I'm not racing or anything, or trying to get in shape, I'm biking for the enjoyment but I also want to get the best performance out of my bike

Lol.

The weight is not part of the tyre. It's rotating weight in the best possible spot (near the hub). Give me a break. Dropping two cogs isn't going to help jack****. This is 100% waste of time. ****. Go weigh your last two cogs on your 8speed cassette and see how much it actually weighs. Insignificant. Carry one less spare tube or drink half a glass of water less and it'd be the same.

Dropping a cogs on a 8 (seriously who does this?) on a performance hybrid doesn't turn it into a road bike nor you into lance armstrong.

You are looking at most 3 ounces, maybe 3.5 if you have a 28/34 large cog, less for smaller sizes. Still have to have spacers in there to fill out the cassette. You might look for a DA 12-25 cassette in 8spd for even greater wgt reduction.
Rotating weight near the axle contributes very little to angular momentum
compared to the rim+tire.

Removing those two cogs can be done but there is really no point in doing it as it won't increase performance.

I want to be more tactful than operator, but I have to agree with him. Removing those two cogs will do nothing significant for the bike's weight or improve the wheel's responsiveness. And, no, it's not "something people normally do."

If you don't use the largest two cogs (what is their tooth count?) consider a cassette with tighter cog tooth spacing and smaller "large" cogs. 8-speed cassettes are available as closely spaced as 12x21 and will give you more intermediate steps as a bonus.

I had a 7.2fx with a 11-32 cassette. The last three gears were 21, 25, 32. So you could replace it with a narrow road cassette, like 12-23 or 12-25.

But if you have some serious hills around that you want to try, keep the gears. Spinning 70rpm at 4mph can get you up anything.

ok thanks guys,

I'm actually going down to the LBS now to see what they have stocked. I've been reading this forum for about a week now and its been very helpful and I've learned alot about biking, and I had read sheldon brown's page before coming here.

You have more success in gaining performance by skipping a few donuts or pass on the Biggie Fries. ;)

Don't bother. The weight is irrelivent. To tell you the truth 3 or 4 pounds doesn't matter to anyone except a pro who is worring about seconds on a climb.
You might see if you can a cassette made for juvinile racers, they aren't allowed real high gears.

Don't bother. The weight is irrelivent. To tell you the truth 3 or 4 pounds doesn't matter to anyone except a pro who is worring about seconds on a climb.
You might see if you can a cassette made for juvinile racers, they aren't allowed real high gears.

True, but he's talking about dropping the low gears.

ok thanks guys,

I'm actually going down to the LBS now to see what they have stocked. I've been reading this forum for about a week now and its been very helpful and I've learned alot about biking, and I had read sheldon brown's page before coming here.

Instead of removing cogs... just get a set that ends with a low gear the same as the one you're using...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/bicycle/IMG_3048.jpg

I run a 12-21 8 speed and really enjoy the ultra close gearing.:)


Greg

What the studly guys do is put on bigger chainrings, then you'll have bigger gears with the same cogs.

Don't bother. The weight is irrelivent. To tell you the truth 3 or 4 pounds doesn't matter to anyone except a pro who is worring about seconds on a climb.

A friend of mine (who used to race, and well, from what I've heard) once told me, 'unless you're loosing Cat 1 races, and only by less than a minute, your time and money is much better spent training, rather than bike weight reduction.'

What the studly guys do is put on bigger chainrings, then you'll have bigger gears with the same cogs.

My "big" chainring is only 46T...
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/bicycle/IMG_3051.jpg

...tells you how "studly" I am. :roflmao2:


Greg

ok, people should actually read the thread before posting, I already know that its useless to remove that little weight.

The guy at the shop said he could order a 12-25 cassette for $35. and I just realized that I forgot which brand he said, oops. It might have been a shimano cassette or it might have been some other brand. But I know he did say he could get other shimano cassettes for $60 and $70. I'm going to check the shop that's a ways away that I bought the bike from that's bigger than the one I went to.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm looking for people on campus and in the city to go biking with regularly, so hopefully I'll learn some more from them

I want to be more tactful than operator,...

You're sitting the bar AWFULLY high there. ;)

A friend of mine (who used to race, and well, from what I've heard) once told me, 'unless you're loosing Cat 1 races, and only by less than a minute, your time and money is much better spent training, rather than bike weight reduction.'

However, if your actual goal is reducing bike weight (and not necessarily making yourself faster or winning races) there's nothing wrong with looking for light weight parts. I personally find a lighter bike more fun to ride so while I may only commute on it and not necessarily even ride that hard all the time, I sought out lightweight parts for my latest commuter. I know this type of thing makes some people cringe so I'll post a picture too :)

http://home.comcast.net/~joejackson951/bike/PF/DSC02690.JPG (http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejoejackson951/bike/PF/DSC02690.JPG)

For an idea of how studly I am, do note that there's a 28-27 low gear on that bike too.

Have you thought about trying another brand/model of tire if you want to take weight off of your wheels?

---------------------------------------------------------------
Post #1 Quote
I want to do it because those two gears are useless weight, and that weight is part of the tire, which makes it even worse. So I'm just trying to get rid of that weight.

Post #15 Quote
ok, people should actually read the thread before posting, I already know that its useless to remove that little weight.

Four or five people mentioned weight in their responses between posts 2-14, since the first post stated 'weight' was the issue. I believe people did read the key part of the thread, which was the question and reasoning in post #1.

However, if your actual goal is reducing bike weight (and not necessarily making yourself faster or winning races) there's nothing wrong with looking for light weight parts. I personally find a lighter bike more fun to ride so while I may only commute on it and not necessarily even ride that hard all the time, I sought out lightweight parts for my latest commuter. I know this type of thing makes some people cringe so I'll post a picture too :)

http://home.comcast.net/~joejackson951/bike/PF/DSC02690.JPG (http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejoejackson951/bike/PF/DSC02690.JPG)

For an idea of how studly I am, do note that there's a 28-27 low gear on that bike too.

A CF cyclocross frame/fork with fender eyelets???
What brand/model is that?

ok, people should actually read the thread before posting, I already know that its useless to remove that little weight.

The guy at the shop said he could order a 12-25 cassette for $35. and I just realized that I forgot which brand he said, oops. It might have been a shimano cassette or it might have been some other brand. But I know he did say he could get other shimano cassettes for $60 and $70. I'm going to check the shop that's a ways away that I bought the bike from that's bigger than the one I went to.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm looking for people on campus and in the city to go biking with regularly, so hopefully I'll learn some more from them

$35 sounds about right for a Shimano HG-30 (I think thats the model... or it might be HG-10 I dont remember) 8 speed 12-25 cassette. Sounds like it will work for you.

A CF cyclocross frame/fork with fender eyelets???
What brand/model is that?

Pedal Force CX1 frame with a Winwood Dualist fork. The frame also has rack mounts on the mono-seat stay but I'm not currently using them (my rack mounts to the brake bosses).

ok, people should actually read the thread before posting, I already know that its useless to remove that little weight.

Well, I've read it and I still don't understand what you want. The story seems to be changing before our eyes. First it was "take off the cogs". now it seems to be to change the cassette. When you make up your mind, let us know.



Or not.

$35 sounds about right for a Shimano HG-30 (I think thats the model... or it might be HG-10 I dont remember) 8 speed 12-25 cassette. Sounds like it will work for you.

+1 :thumb:

Right in the ballpark... I got my 8 sp for $28 off Ebay.
You'll like the extra gears in between... :)


Greg