Road Cycling - Newbie wants to learn about components

Just getting into more "serious" road biking. I've had a hybrid Cannondale for about 2 years now, but I want a lighter, racier bike for climbing the hills around here. I've test-ridden several different brands, including Trek, Cannondale, and Giant's entry level road models, which I've seen discussed fairly extensively in past threads on this forum. I've found that I like the feel of the Trek 1000 better than either of the other models I rode, and now I'm looking more seriously at the individual components that go into these bikes to try to get the most competitive bang for my buck. Which brings me to my (several) questions.

The Trek 1000 I rode was equipped with the Shimano Sora shifters and front and rear derailleur. I've seen people talking about the Tiagra and the 105's on this forum. What are the differences between these models? Is there a significant performance advantage of having the Tiagra over the Sora? (I know that when I rode the 1000, the only serious problem I had with it was the cumbersome shifting mechanism, where you had to push the brake lever to shift. Is the Tiagra different?)

Also, when comparing the specs between the 1000 I rode and the 1200 I might consider paying the extra $$$ for, I saw that there are differences (besides the aforementioned Sora/Tiagra difference) in the frame itself (Alpha SL aluminum on the 1200, Alpha aluminum on the 1000), the fork (Bontrager Race Carbon on the 1200, Alloy w/ alloy steerer on the 1000), and the rims (Matrix Aurora on the 1200, Alex AT450 on the 1000).

Let me tackle these differences individually. Besides weight (I'm assuming that would be different), is there any appreciable difference between the frames? I suppose the same question would also be in order for the fork -- I know a carbon fork would be lighter, but is there any other advantage? And what is the difference between the rims as well?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but it seems like a lot of you are fairly knowledgeable. I want to know, basically, if the 1200's components are really worth the extra ~$260? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

my suggestions would be get the one that feels the best to you right now. since u haven't test rode the 1200..u should test ride it. cuz if the 1200 feels more comfortable than the other one.. then u should pick that. since both bikes have entry level components.. u should look for the one with the geometry that feels good to you, as well as the frame that you want. if both frames are almost the same, then pick the paint job you want.

main thing is.. eventually later on u will want to change and upgrade components... and with the sora and tiagera parts... they will last a long way. carbon fork is good.. but many will say it help very little. u can do a search on that about carbon forks. if that extra $260 is worth it for you to get the 1200, then go for it. but if budget is tight.. u might want to seriously consider it.

Good question for this forum, and it is asked a lot in shops.

Is the 260 dollars worth it, yes. Between the carbon fork and Tiagra, it already is worth it. Sora is known to wear out faster if you are riding more than once a week or <25 miles a week. Faster meaning before 2 years has past. Also depending on where you are riding the carbon fork is a major advantage. If you live anywhere like I do, the carbon fork will dampen the vibration from horrid paved roads.

Just my opinon...:)

imo, the best bang-for-buck complete bikes are either used or off-brand bikes bought online.

the Trek 100, 1200, and 1500 that you are looking at are good entry level roadbikes, but they all have the same inexpensive alum frame and for prices like $570, $830 and $1100 i think they miss out at being anything like a best bang for buck.

in that ~$850 range the best value in a fairly big name complete bike is probably the Fuji Roubaix Pro (avail through performance retails stores for like $860 i think) because it has a full Shimano 105 group and a nice Reynolds 853 steel frame where the Trek 1200 for about the same money is a harsher cheap alum frame w/ full Tiagra - a complete group behind the Fuji.

i'm no hardware expert, but in the research i've been doing it seems like frame material and component group are the two best things to focus on in terms of value - like don't sweat the fork or the wheelset as they will all be pretty low-end in bikes <$1000.

folks here will always encourage you to test ride as much as possible. i got to take an extended test ride of about 12 miles yesterday on a Cannondale R600 and i think it convinced me that going to another low-end alum frame is not the kind of upgrade i'm looking for and that i'd be better off spending a bit more for a steel frame if i can find one in my size.

lastly, i think the 7005 alum frames with sora/tiagra are still okay entrylevel bikes, but i don't think you need to fuss very much about the details on paper - you can just pick the one that feels the best to ride and has the best price. Performance also has their own line of bikes that have similarly cheap frame/component mixes but for less money at every point than a bigger name bike like Trek or Cdale. Check out a Razza 3.0 if there's a Performance near you.

- one day i will stop shilling for these guys because it's not like it's the only deal in town - but as an example of what you can get by going offbrand check this bike out that my friend has now and loves (it's in my apartment now actually from a ride we had yesterday): http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/legacypro.htm

Full Ultegra on a nice steel frame is a huge upgrade from something like the Trek 1500 which is nearly the same price. in fact, the big companies don't make too many Reynolds 853 steel bikes anymore, and when they do they're compact geometry which i don't like on an aesthetic level.

thanks for the guidance guys...any other opinions would surely be appreciated as well :)

I have agree with boze, the frame is the most important thing. All the Shimano groups are good, the higher up you go the better it gets. I would not buy anything less than 105 myself. From the 105 up the biggest differences are finish and weight.
As for the carbon fork, this could be and upgrade or just a way to cost more. Not all carbon forks are the same. I bought one of the Trek fork and it was no better than the alum I got rid of.
If money is tight, check out the LBS for left overs. I have shop that buys left over frames, and sell for a hugh discount. Then just buy the parts need to build the bike, many online retailer sell left over stock at a discount. This way might take a little longer but you can get what you want. The only problem is that you will not the lastest, greatest now.

I also agree w/ the previous comments. I personally wouldn't look at anything less than a full 105 group. IMO that should be the entry point for a decent road bike. Anything less and you will be wanting to upgrade fairly soon (You will still want to upgrade to Ultegra...but only cause it's shiny... ;) )...lol

Anyway, I too have been researching the next road bike for quite some time, and I'm still pretty much at a loss on what to buy. I narrow my choices down, then another bike brand comes along and messes everything up!

IMO, first thing is to determine a budget and stick to it. Like anything else, you can always talk yourself up a couple hundred $$ and get something "better"...TV's, Computers, digital cameras, etc...it applies everywhere. So figure out what you want to spend first.

Secondly, while brand name isn't everything, I'd still consider any "good" deals you find at a LBS, because they should stand behind the sale AND give you a free fitting, plus be more apt to quickly fix things if you buy from them. If there is a smokin deal on the net that you just can't pass up...just make sure you know EXACTLY what you are buying and the size you will need. You will still need to take it to a LBS and pay to get fitted...but if it's what you want....then go for it.

Case in point....right now this is a pretty good deal IMO, http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/serpens_ltd.htm Too good a deal to pass up....

In my case, I think my next bike should be at least all Ultegra components, a double crankset (don't have much use for a triple around here), at least a carbon fork & rear stays, and a decent wheelset. Problem I have is finding everything I want in a bike in my size range (6' 4") AND price range.

I originally decided to spend $2500 on the next bike, looking at a Trek 5200...but now I'm thinking if I can get a deal on a ~$1800 or so road bike, then I can put the rest to a decent mountain bike...so that upset all my plans... :(

I have agree with boze, the frame is the most important thing. All the Shimano groups are good, the higher up you go the better it gets. I would not buy anything less than 105 myself. From the 105 up the biggest differences are finish and weight.
As for the carbon fork, this could be and upgrade or just a way to cost more. Not all carbon forks are the same. I bought one of the Trek fork and it was no better than the alum I got rid of.
If money is tight, check out the LBS for left overs. I have shop that buys left over frames, and sell for a hugh discount. Then just buy the parts need to build the bike, many online retailer sell left over stock at a discount. This way might take a little longer but you can get what you want. The only problem is that you will not the lastest, greatest now.

One piece of advice: Decide objectively and conclusively how much you are willing to spend and stick to it. Don't test ride a bike that you can't afford. That being said, try to find the bike within your spending limits that gives you the most enjoyable ride. Look for a good frame (a lot has already been mentioned about that in this thread) and good components. I personally agree with the statement about nothing less than Shimano 105.

If you ride on poorly paved roads, you might want to give extra consideration to either a steel frame or carbon forks/seatstays on an aluminum frame if these are options within your budget.

Good luck to you on your research and purchase! It is a lot of fun finding the right bike and even more fun breaking it in!

Enjoy!

WildBill, that Mercier looks like a deal almost too good to be true. But all others on this forum have advised me to test ride everything I am considering, and I don't have any Mercier dealer within a decent driving distance. My whole world has been shaken by seeing that, but I really want to be able to give it a good spin around these West Virginia mountains. (sigh)

if that Mercier is your new target bike you should go to performance and test ride the 2004 Fuji Roubaix (not the Pro just the Roubaix) because it's pretty much the same bike for the same price: alum w/ carbon stays and full 105.

that way you can test drive and see about the right size or whatever.

this is going to make me sound dumb, i have a feeling...but where is this "performance" i should go to? none of the LBS here carry Fuji either, unless i'm completely wrong...

Avoid entry level anything.

Sora is fine for what it is, but it's entry level and parts like shifters and cassettes aren't compatable with the better Shimano groups so you have to replace a bunch of stuff all at once if you ever decide to upgrade. My guess is that a year from now you will have forgotten about the difference in price, but you'll still have whichever bike you decide to buy. I'm thinking you'll be more satisfied with the Tiagra equipped model.

http://www.performancebike.com/inform/store_locations.cfm

If you are still debating between the Trek 1000 and the 1200 I would have to go with the 1200. The fork is a pretty decent selling point but the main one is the components. The sora is just 8 speed. The tiagra is 9 speed which means it will be much easier to upgrade and repair in the future. Tiagra may not be top of the line but I find that it does do the job. I have it on my cyclocross bike and it does very well. So far other than the finish I haven't really noticed it performing much different than the Ultegra on my road bike.

Just my 2 pennies.

LowCel, whereabouts do you live in Charleston? I live in Kanawha City.

LowCel, whereabouts do you live in Charleston? I live in Kanawha City.

I ride KC 2 or 3 times a week. I actually live in Goldtown but I work at the capitol complex.

I am a Campagnolo fanboy (Record carbon on my EV3), but I have ridden bikes with 105 groups on them and I like that. So much so that I'm putting a 105 group on a Bianchi Volpe I recently bought. Definitely great bang for the buck. Smooth shifting, compliant braking, and quite sturdy.

While a lot of folks will tell you to get nothing less than ... I would recommend not getting more than 105 at this time. If you're new to road cycling, you'll want to work on the engine (read: YOU) before you shell out for componentry. I got caught up in the componentry arms race and I'm well behind any gains my carbon Record gear would give me. Yeah, it's zoot, but I am not a good enough cyclist to make that weight savings make a difference right now.

Just something to consider. The 105 group is the perfect group for a beginning roadie IMHO.

if that Mercier is your new target bike you should go to performance and test ride the 2004 Fuji Roubaix (not the Pro just the Roubaix) because it's pretty much the same bike for the same price: alum w/ carbon stays and full 105.

that way you can test drive and see about the right size or whatever.


Yes, I compared the specs between the Fuji Roubaix and the Mercier...identical besides paint and stickers. I agree, I would rather get something that I could test ride first...but for that price, I'm considering taking the risk and just ordering it. I'd probably go w/ a 64cm frame to be safe (6' 4")...but I think you can talk w/ them to get the sizing down close enough and then get fitted at your LBS.

I agree though, if you can find a Fuji dealer in your area...go ride one... :)