Road Cycling - What wheels would you buy for under $600.00

Recently received $600.00 credit from lbs and am looking for opinions on what wheels to buy for a 160lb rider on a Fuji Team Super Light.

Velomax circuit comps. and a nice pair of shoes.

you can get a set of velomax orion, ascent on ebay for less that 600.00 new

also i am thinking about getting my next wheelset from http://oddsandendos.com
does anybody know if they are good, they make custom wheels

i am interested in this set
http://oddsandendos.safeshopper.com/2/54.htm?1
are these good? components seem good enough

you can get a set of velomax orion, ascent on ebay for less that 600.00 new

also i am thinking about getting my next wheelset from http://oddsandendos.com
does anybody know if they are good, they make custom wheels

i am interested in this set
http://oddsandendos.safeshopper.com/2/54.htm?1
are these good? components seem good enough

I doin't know, I've heard of quite a few problems with American Classic hubs (especially the older ones.) You might look at http://www.speeddream.com/road.php (Aerolite) as it has the same rim depth, but uses different hubs.


Fuji Flyer, what is/was wrong with the wheels the super light came with?

What are you looking for... race only wheels? Something durable but light for training and racing? Do you want light or aero?

I'd be curious to know what kind of problems people have had with American Classic hubs. CyclingNews had a blurb on the AC free-hub a couple of months ago and seemed to like it. In any case, I've got a pair of American Classic 350s built w/Sapim CX Ray spokes that I use primarily for racing. Compared to a regular 32 spoke 3x build, it's like riding with a 5 mph tailwind! They're a pretty good value in a light, semi-aero wheel. Get 'em built 28/32 and they'll be plenty strong for someone your weight. The Sapim CX Ray spokes cost extra but are lighter, more aero, and supposedly as strong as a quality butted spoke. The other good thing about the 350s is that it's a standard build... if something happens, you can use any spoke in a pinch.

The downside is that the Al in the rim is a little thin compared to an all-purpose rim, so it's not a good choice a lot of wet weather riding/racing.

The AC web-site has a link to a CyclingNews review if you want to learn more.

Bontrager Race X Lite

What are you looking for... race only wheels? Something durable but light for training and racing? Do you want light or aero?

For all around I like the Campy Zonda. If you wanna go conventional I'd vote for DT Swiss RR 1.1 with DA hubs. Either way you should have a few sheckels left over for other kit.

What are you looking for... race only wheels? Something durable but light for training and racing? Do you want light or aero?

I'd be curious to know what kind of problems people have had with American Classic hubs. CyclingNews had a blurb on the AC free-hub a couple of months ago and seemed to like it. In any case, I've got a pair of American Classic 350s built w/Sapim CX Ray spokes that I use primarily for racing. Compared to a regular 32 spoke 3x build, it's like riding with a 5 mph tailwind! They're a pretty good value in a light, semi-aero wheel. Get 'em built 28/32 and they'll be plenty strong for someone your weight. The Sapim CX Ray spokes cost extra but are lighter, more aero, and supposedly as strong as a quality butted spoke. The other good thing about the 350s is that it's a standard build... if something happens, you can use any spoke in a pinch.

The downside is that the Al in the rim is a little thin compared to an all-purpose rim, so it's not a good choice a lot of wet weather riding/racing.

The AC web-site has a link to a CyclingNews review if you want to learn more.

Some quotes from weight weenies. If you want the threads, search for "American Classic Hub" in their forums.


After some other members mentioned they were not happy with the bearing of their rear hub I pulled mine apart. The problem was not the bearing but the diameter of the freewheel which holds one of the three sealed bearing rings. The diameter is too small and compresses the ring if the hub is adjusted to tight.

To improve the feel of the hub; pull the axle out of the freewheel and remove the bearing ring from the freewheel. Use sandpaper (or other device) to increase the diameter of the freewheel. Shave some metal out of the freewheel body at the same time if you wish Wink.

It took me ages to do with sandpaper but the bearings are fine and the hub feels much better.


Front hub is very easy to take apart when NEW....take grip fron axle head with axle wice and pull..but don't pull poth both same time if you are not sure that you can get bearings out. Since to piece of tube between bearing will then fall and it's bit hard to get to place again. Bearings should come out some way...like pullet out with some anchor like tool.

BUT when hub has been in bike...end caps will be hard to get out since they are fragile and don't last on rought roads. (without suspension fork...)

And poor quality+micro size of bearing=poor rolling.



I've just pulled my AC micro rear hub apart again to find the bearings are shot. (I've pulled them apart after each of my 40km races).

Tip one has to be don't over tighten them.
Tip two is don't even consider riding them near water (lack of rubber seals).


More or less, there seems to be a definite problem with some of their hubs.

Big Floppy Llama, In answer to your question the wheels were AC 350 sprints. Absolute junk!! Out of the box they were out of round and out of true. Had to have them trued 4 times in 1500 miles where upon my lbs mechanic said some of the spokes were bottomed out and the wheels were quickly becoming untrueable. I really wanted to like these wheels as they were great climbers and would quickly spin up. Unfortunately they were nothing but trouble even though I only 158lbs.

guys, what other custom wheels builders are there?

thanks...

i just want a set of strong/reasonably lightweight wheelset

sorry for thread-jacking, fuji

A discounted set of Topolinos.

55/Rad

Another vote for the circuits.

Recently received $600.00 credit from lbs and am looking for opinions on what wheels to buy for a 160lb rider on a Fuji Team Super Light.


I just rode a set of Full Speed Aheads and was knocked out...and they only will cost you about 450 beans

I hear Mike at oddsandendos builds great wheels.And he really stands behond them.I too heard of some problems w/ the ac's.Top quality wheels- i would build either white industries hubs or chris king hubs(noisy) w/ mavic open pro or dt swiss rims.I know spped dreams uses the white industries hubs.You could also use your credit to get the seperate components(hubs,rims,spokes,etc) and build them yoursself(get your lbs to look them over).It's really pretty easy plus you learn a lot.

I bought a pair of dura-ace/open-pro wheels from excel sports, and I like them a lot. the open pro is fairly durable so far, I've only had the front trued once in the 2200 miles I've used them, and that was becase I kicked the front by accident. these wheels were only 300...but you could upgrade to a better hub, like Chris King or hugis. but I'd stay with mavic rims, like the open pro, or the older CXP33.

Some quotes from weight weenies. If you want the threads, search for "American Classic Hub" in their forums.
Thanks... I'll open up my hubs and see if they have the same issues. Do you have a link to the weight weenies forum? weightweenies.com brings up a realtor in MA (figure that out)???

Thanks... I'll open up my hubs and see if they have the same issues. Do you have a link to the weight weenies forum? weightweenies.com brings up a realtor in MA (figure that out)???

Link to Weight Weenies. (http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php)

Recently received $600.00 credit from lbs and am looking for opinions on what wheels to buy for a 160lb rider on a Fuji Team Super Light.

You could get these shimano WH-R540 for under $300 and whatever else you want with the other $300.

You could get these shimano WH-R540 for under $300 and whatever else you want with the other $300.

I vote no on those. With wheels playing such an important role, i'd go for something better. Not only are they about 2kg a pair, but the 16 spokes could be a problem. Not to mention, the irregular nipple size. I have these wheels because they came with the bike. They're fine and all, but I wouldn't spend money on them given the choice.

I vote no on those. With wheels playing such an important role, i'd go for something better. Not only are they about 2kg a pair, but the 16 spokes could be a problem. Not to mention, the irregular nipple size. I have these wheels because they came with the bike. They're fine and all, but I wouldn't spend money on them given the choice.

One Paragraph and NOTHING said. What could be the PROBLEM with the spokes. And the IRREGULAR nipple size. If you just want to spend more money and save a kg or 5. The same wheel design comes in DA for about $900. But I guess I forgot about the spokes and nipples. Weight Front: 825g Rear: 1045g.
Full carbon 16 spoke race wheel are Front: 630g Rear: 830g
;)

On second thought even if I had the money I wouldn't buy these what with the nipples and spokes and all.
Thanks for the little knowledge (very) that helped change my mind. ;)

WH-7701-Carbon Pro Race Wheel

Super-light Design: 630g Front / 830g Rear
Lateral Cross-Over Spoke Lacing = Precise Steering and Lateral Strength
Low Rim Weight = Reduced Rotational Inertia = Quick Acceleration
30mm Deep Aerodynamic Rim for Sew-Ups
Fully Serviceable Dura-Ace Hub Internals
Titanium Freehub Body
Spoke Wrench, Spoke Magnet and Valve Extenders Included

ELITISTS SPEAK A LOT BUT DON'T SAY MUCH

On the r-540's, take a look at some of my past posts on these, my vote is an emphatic no. I got a pair of wheels from oddsandendos about 2 months ago. Weigh in at 1470 grams or so for the pair. Using the aerohead rims and speedcific hubs. They are incredible. A pound lighter than those r-540s, way stiffer, easier to true and/or service, plus I got to customize them a little with red nipples to match my bike. Best part of all? 300$ shipped to me with skewers and rim tape. Definetly call mike up and talk to him, see what he recommends. With the extra 300$ you could get some other nice goodies!

you can get a set of velomax orion, ascent on ebay for less that 600.00 new

also i am thinking about getting my next wheelset from http://oddsandendos.com
does anybody know if they are good, they make custom wheels

i am interested in this set
http://oddsandendos.safeshopper.com/2/54.htm?1
are these good? components seem good enough

Mike Garcia at oddsandendos is one of the nicest guys i have EVER delt with. dont order from his site, give him a call. this is comming from someone who hates talking on the phone, but Mike was super nice, we talked for about half an hour on philosophy of wheelbuilding and parts and stuff, he is soo great to talk to.
So, do call him, you wont regret it.
If you dont want the AM Classic hubs (which rock), call mike and he will tell you what he has/what he can get, he can make up So SOOOO many combinations for you.
Also, his wheels kick butt also, and you cant beat the prices!
The wheels I got weigh Less than Mavic SSC's and cost half as much.

tourist already mentioned the Campagnolo Zondas. They're excellent as are all of Campagnolo's wheelsets. With some good timing, you can probably find some Campagnolo Neutrons for < $600. Very strong, versatile wheels. Same for the Eurus.

One Paragraph and NOTHING said. What could be the PROBLEM with the spokes. And the IRREGULAR nipple size. If you just want to spend more money and save a kg or 5. The same wheel design comes in DA for about $900. But I guess I forgot about the spokes and nipples. Weight Front: 825g Rear: 1045g.
Full carbon 16 spoke race wheel are Front: 630g Rear: 830g
;)

What are you talking about? You're looking at proprietary spoke nipples, it’s not a guarantee every shop would have the right spoke wrench (unless you gave it to them). And you’re looking at few enough spokes that causes the wheels to flex quite a bit (I didn’t notice it at first, but I had to readjust my rear brake pads so they wouldn’t rub during tight turns). I honestly wouldn’t buy any of the Shimano wheels considering I think there are many better alternatives for less money.

When I broke a couple, thats right, more than one, spokes on my r540s not a single bike shop had a shimano spoke. I called 6 shops in my area, right around phoenix, big shops, not some out of the way only bike shop for a 100 miles thing. When they break you have to unscrew the spoke or else it flaps around against your rim and frame. Unless you are carrying a pair of pliars or something, which my friend I was riding with 2 of the 3 times was, you can't unscrew the nipple. They are rather flexible as well. I think shimano learned there lesson with those wheels, look at their new wheels, all traditional lacing.

did the wheel go out of true immediately??