im thinking about getting a new bike. i have a huffy tremor since i was about 10 (15 now)

im new to this whole bmx thing and im trying to get into it. so i also need to know the difference between
race bikes jump bikes and freestyle bikes. i need to know the difference between the bikes not the sport they are used in. i also have to convince my dad to get me a new bike.

i have been looking at a

trek TR20
Diamondback ViperX
Diamondback Session
Diamondback Joker

all around 200$

i think i need to broaden this so any suggestions?

i have to convince him NOT to get me a something called a vertical whatever. we saw it at costco. it kinda of makes me shudder to think of riding that bike. he thinks that bike is fine but i think otherwise. So some help would be nice.

plz save me from the pain of having to get that bike. he says if i cant convincce him, its that bike or no bike at all, and im stuck with my old semi-rusty huffy, which was a fine bike, but i had since i was 10.

DO NOT BUY A BIKE WHERE YOU CAN BUY TOILET PAPER!

Ask your dad if he would buy a costo brand car... co manufactured by Yugo. That is what you get at Costco.

Check www.danscomp.com for new bikes and a lot of pricing.

BMX racing is just that - racing your 20" bike around a track against other riders.
Freestyle is made up of several areas:
1. Dirt: doing tricks off of the jumps that are on BMX tracks - but no racing trails is similar, but usually the jumps are in the woods and you have to contend with narrow jumps, and off kilter landings, you mess one jump up and you can really hurt yourself.
2. Street: Daily obstacles you see when riding - curbs, fire hydrants, gaps, bunnyhops, handrails.
3. Vert: Halfpipes - 10+ feet tall must go to VERTICAL to be vert.
4. Park: Man-made ramps and rails, similar to street, but not actually in the street.
5. Flatland: Find a nice flat parking lot, and do tricks on your bike without the aid of outside obstacles.

Check www.bmxtrix.com -> how-to -> (flatland or street/dirt/vert) for some tricks.

Bikes differ in how they are built specifically for the riding type. Flatland bikes are made for flat, bmx bikes are made lightweight and fast for racing, and street/dirt/vert bikes all have characteristics that help that area.

A decent street or 'freestyle' bike as they are sometimes called can be used for pretty much anything EXCEPT racing. BMX racing typically won't allow pegs on the bikes on the track.

My opinion is that DK makes some of the best $200.00ish bikes on the market and that Huffy and Diamond Back are crap because they do not get rider input on the bikes so the bikes cost the same, but have much lower quality than a comparable DK.

DO NOT BUY A BIKE WHERE YOU CAN BUY TOILET PAPER!

Ask your dad if he would buy a costo brand car... co manufactured by Yugo. That is what you get at Costco.

Check www.danscomp.com for new bikes and a lot of pricing.

BMX racing is just that - racing your 20" bike around a track against other riders.
Freestyle is made up of several areas:
1. Dirt: doing tricks off of the jumps that are on BMX tracks - but no racing trails is similar, but usually the jumps are in the woods and you have to contend with narrow jumps, and off kilter landings, you mess one jump up and you can really hurt yourself.
2. Street: Daily obstacles you see when riding - curbs, fire hydrants, gaps, bunnyhops, handrails.
3. Vert: Halfpipes - 10+ feet tall must go to VERTICAL to be vert.
4. Park: Man-made ramps and rails, similar to street, but not actually in the street.
5. Flatland: Find a nice flat parking lot, and do tricks on your bike without the aid of outside obstacles.

Check www.bmxtrix.com -> how-to -> (flatland or street/dirt/vert) for some tricks.

Bikes differ in how they are built specifically for the riding type. Flatland bikes are made for flat, bmx bikes are made lightweight and fast for racing, and street/dirt/vert bikes all have characteristics that help that area.

A decent street or 'freestyle' bike as they are sometimes called can be used for pretty much anything EXCEPT racing. BMX racing typically won't allow pegs on the bikes on the track.

My opinion is that DK makes some of the best $200.00ish bikes on the market and that Huffy and Diamond Back are crap because they do not get rider input on the bikes so the bikes cost the same, but have much lower quality than a comparable DK.


thats cool. it turns out ill just use my frame and scrap the rest of my bike. hes gonna let me pick my parts and let me customize it the way i want it. so now i need to know the difference between sealed and unsealed wheels.

and also i like the idea of havinga half black half blue bike so thats the main color. how will i geta paintjob on my old frame?

buying nice parts for your crappy frame is going to be more expensive than getting an ok complete that will last longer

buying nice parts for your crappy frame is going to be more expensive than getting an ok complete that will last longer


yeah well this is the only way im gonna get close to getting a new bike.

hey i used to live in gilbert. i lived in val vista place. it was near the safeway.

im getting started so i wont be doing anything to seriosu that would mess up the bike.

i live in the val vista lakes, castaway bay

ok now how do i disassemble the crank section,


i know where that is. what school do you go to? if you do. whatever

you should take your cranks to your local bike shop to save time and trouble
i got to school at highland, im going into my senior year

Don't take anything on your bike to your 'local' shop. Bike mechanics should bring in about $50.00 per hour PLUS for their work. Do you really want to pay that?

1 piece cranks removal: Take of your pedals first - the pedal on the side with your sprocket (right side) unscrews normally. The pedal on the left side, opposite your sprocket, unscrews opposite direction.

There is a large bolt on the side of your cranks on the opposite side of your sprocket. This large bolt should be removed with a large wrench or with channel locks. THIS BOLT UNSCREWS OPPOSITE DIRECTION!

There is likely a bolt under the bolt you just removed, this bolt likely needs a flat head screwdriver placed in a groove to remove this bolt (opposite direction again).

Now your cranks will slide out. Pay careful attention to which way your bearings are facing as you remove the cranks if you plan on reinstalling the bearings with your new cranks.

At this point, I recommend that you clean all the parts you have removed with rags or paper towels. Spray all the parts down with WD-40 and take 30 minutes or so just cleaning stuff up. Clean anything that has grease on it, try hard to remove all the grease from all the parts.

Check www.bmxtrix.com -> how-to -> fix your bike -> tools needed for a list of stuff that you should definitely have before you begin tackling this bike repair. Specifically, you want to be darn sure you have WD-40 and some good grease to lube your parts up with and some of the other 'basics' listed.

Ask if you have further questions, you may want to ask in the 'bike maintenance' section of this site instead of here. Make sure you specify that your bike is a bmx not a road or mt. bike.

well thats the catch. the reason my dads haveing me rebuild the bike is so i learn how the thing works. hell buy the parts i want.

i was gonna go to gilbert high cuz it was right next to where i lived. ill be in my sophmore year when school starts.

my stepdad owns a 'local' shop and charges very little for swapping cranks and wont screw anything up

i got it out without a problem it was just a one piece crank. ill just use that it wears out then ill get some new ones. probably 3 piece.

i still need to find some brakes.